Not a "painter", don't play one on TV, and can only be reasonably
certain about one color, "Black" ... sometimes.

Looking for input:

I need to paint a poplar/birch ply, 3' x 4' "Presentation Plaque" to
match the last link below.

Here is the patient:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...45157562683986

My plan:

1. Crank up the HVLP sprayer and spray a couple of coats pf BIN

2. Sand lightly in between where needed.

3. Spray what? Now I'm at a loss.

The client wants the plaque to be "black" like the last photo in the pdf
file. After discussion with him again this morning, we settled upon the
concept of "satin" (he doesn't want it to look "wet") ... no problem there.

Here was his example:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...34534392703906

Don't want to make a Federal case out of this, but I only want to do it
once, so recommendations/ideas as far a type of paint, number of coats,
flat black base coat(s) with use of a final clear coat, etc.?

I have to deliver this puppy Monday morning.

Any input is mucho appreciated (Wabbut ... hope you are not too es
spensive.)

And .... yes, I HATE PAINT/PAINTING/ANY THING PAINTING!

Thanks,

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/7/13 10:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Not a "painter", don't play one on TV, and can only be reasonably
certain about one color, "Black" ... sometimes.

Looking for input:

I need to paint a poplar/birch ply, 3' x 4' "Presentation Plaque" to
match the last link below.

Here is the patient:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...45157562683986


My plan:

1. Crank up the HVLP sprayer and spray a couple of coats pf BIN

2. Sand lightly in between where needed.

3. Spray what? Now I'm at a loss.

The client wants the plaque to be "black" like the last photo in the pdf
file. After discussion with him again this morning, we settled upon the
concept of "satin" (he doesn't want it to look "wet") ... no problem there.

Here was his example:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...34534392703906


Don't want to make a Federal case out of this, but I only want to do it
once, so recommendations/ideas as far a type of paint, number of coats,
flat black base coat(s) with use of a final clear coat, etc.?

I have to deliver this puppy Monday morning.

Any input is mucho appreciated (Wabbut ... hope you are not too es
spensive.)

And .... yes, I HATE PAINT/PAINTING/ANY THING PAINTING!

Thanks,


Yeah, me, too. Hate it. I'm dealing with the same issue with trying to
spray oil enamel on these bookcases. Since I'm a complete newbie at HVLP
I can't give any useful advice, other than don't use it, unless you're
very experienced with your HVLP sprayer.

I wanted something harder and faster drying for the shelves than the oil
going on the rest of the cases. I ended up buying some of this....
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
....and it went on beautifully smooth and even. It dried very fast and
can be re-coated within an hour. If you're talking Monday, I wouldn't
want to be waiting 24 hours for oil paint out of a gallon can to dry.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/7/2013 10:23 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/7/13 10:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Not a "painter", don't play one on TV, and can only be reasonably
certain about one color, "Black" ... sometimes.

Looking for input:

And .... yes, I HATE PAINT/PAINTING/ANY THING PAINTING!

Thanks,


Yeah, me, too. Hate it. I'm dealing with the same issue with trying to
spray oil enamel on these bookcases. Since I'm a complete newbie at HVLP
I can't give any useful advice, other than don't use it, unless you're
very experienced with your HVLP sprayer.

I wanted something harder and faster drying for the shelves than the oil
going on the rest of the cases. I ended up buying some of this....
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
...and it went on beautifully smooth and even. It dried very fast and
can be re-coated within an hour. If you're talking Monday, I wouldn't
want to be waiting 24 hours for oil paint out of a gallon can to dry.

I was thinking about that very product. I've used it before on small
bits of filler trim that needed to match a black appliance on kitchen
cabinets, and it worke nicely.

I don't mind spraying the BIN with HVLP, but I hate the idea of spraying
a high VOC paint to get something to dry faster, so the rattle can,
considering the relative small size of the piece, might do the trick.

Did you use a topcoat, or just go with a satin finish?

Thanks ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/7/13 10:48 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/7/2013 10:23 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/7/13 10:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Not a "painter", don't play one on TV, and can only be reasonably
certain about one color, "Black" ... sometimes.

Looking for input:

And .... yes, I HATE PAINT/PAINTING/ANY THING PAINTING!

Thanks,


Yeah, me, too. Hate it. I'm dealing with the same issue with trying to
spray oil enamel on these bookcases. Since I'm a complete newbie at HVLP
I can't give any useful advice, other than don't use it, unless you're
very experienced with your HVLP sprayer.

I wanted something harder and faster drying for the shelves than the oil
going on the rest of the cases. I ended up buying some of this....
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
...and it went on beautifully smooth and even. It dried very fast and
can be re-coated within an hour. If you're talking Monday, I wouldn't
want to be waiting 24 hours for oil paint out of a gallon can to dry.

I was thinking about that very product. I've used it before on small
bits of filler trim that needed to match a black appliance on kitchen
cabinets, and it worke nicely.

I don't mind spraying the BIN with HVLP, but I hate the idea of spraying
a high VOC paint to get something to dry faster, so the rattle can,
considering the relative small size of the piece, might do the trick.


Even *I* HVLP'd the BIN on nice and smooth... almost to a sheen after
light sanding with 220.
I chalk that up to the product, not the user. :-)


Did you use a topcoat, or just go with a satin finish?

Thanks ...


I actually bought gloss. I kept it on the horizontal surfaces of the
shelves, but sprayed the shelf fronts with the same oil as the rest of
the face frame, to match color. The Porter oil enamel white had a yellow
tone, while the Rustoleum spray white had a grey tone.... comparatively
speaking, of course, but enough to notice.

As for the Rustoleum, considering it's 15oz, the price is pretty good.
The spray tip is nicer than most cans, and it's generous. I will say,
make your sanding is pristine. The Rustoleum is very thin and shows
every nook and cranny. Not than you can't lay it on thick... just that
it flows very well.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Feb 7, 10:06*am, Swingman wrote:
Well, opinions are like noses, everyone has one... so here's mine.
First, no rattle cans on a job that size with those features/
dimensions/trim profiles. It would probably take 7 - 8 cans to get
the perfect sheen you want, and even then you would have difficulty
doing it on such flat surface. Imagine trying to get a small car hood
surface perfect with a spray can...

Not a "painter", don't play one on TV, and can only be reasonably
certain about one color, "Black" ... sometimes.
...
1. Crank up the HVLP sprayer and spray a couple of coats pf BIN

2. Sand lightly in between where needed.

Since we know each other, I will be more blunt than normal and just
tell you what I would do without the candy coating.

No need to sand beyond 220 g. Not on any surface really, I think most
people do that to put off the inevitable finishing stage a little
longer...

And no sanding between coats. Not on primer, not on finish. Unless
you have a bug that lands in the prime coat or you drop a cup of
coffee on it while it is wet, no sanding. That is an artifact that
has carefully passed down by non professionals for decades. Unless
there is a problem in the finish itself, no need.

Put down two thin coats, and my big thing is to paint the primer like
it is your finish coat. Don't slough off the finish because it is
primer and you think you will sand out the imperfections. Your
stroke, your application method and prep should be every bit as good
as it is on the top coat.

So put down (spray) two thin coats (45 minutes between) of BIN and it
should look like it is cast from white plastic. No witness lines, no
sign anywhere that it was actually coated with anything. Just white.
If you see a dust nib, carefully sand it down with 320 gr.

3. Spray what? Now I'm at a loss. *

OK... you are now about 2 hours in on the project. (Spray, 45 min
wait, then spray, then an hour plus wait for paint.) Although dry to
the touch, the primer isn't cured out. SO NO SANDING. Sanding raised
dust nibs, fouls the air in your finishing room and can leave witness
lines under your top coat. Since it isn't fully cured, your oil based
material will bond to it nicely, burning in just the right amount.

The client wants the plaque to be "black" like the last photo in the pdf
file. After discussion with him again this morning, we settled upon the
concept of "satin" (he doesn't want it to look "wet") ... no problem there.

Satin makes the finish much easier. Even in an area with high
reflectivity it will hide imperfections better than gloss.

Don't want to make a Federal case out of this, but I only want to do it
once, so recommendations/ideas as far a type of paint, number of coats,
flat black base coat(s) with use of a final clear coat, etc.?

OK... no more of that nonsense. There is every product under the sun
for every application these days. All that **** about home brews,
"something someone heard about" or a Google Guess doesn't count when
you have a paying customer. Get the right product, apply correctly,
collect the job and go on.

The downside to the rattle cans (along with the fact they don't put
out enough material when applying) is a fast dry will murder you on
any imperfections. (As a sidebar, if I was there I would apply a
prime coat with my CAS setup, have a cup of coffee, the apply
another. I would hold you hostage for a cup of day old gumbo, the
apply the first coat of finish with enough flourish to make you think
I was doing something special so I could get more gumbo at dinner...)

Since you don't have a lot of experience with spraying deep toned
enamels, I would use a long pot life, long layout material. They are
forgiving. If applied evenly and to the correct thickness, they will
tighten up enough to cover some of your spray errors. Fast dry
products need to be used on small projects that you can cover quickly
as anything that is applied just a minute or so after first pass will
show. In other words, if you get focused on spraying out the detailed
profiles, your overspray will go on to the flats of this project.
Then when you spray the flats, the overspray will show up under your
top coat and give it a sand or orange peel finish. (Then of course,
you must sand, which is a no-no.)

Even if you are an experienced finisher, painting black can be
problematic. Painting black is fast dry is almost impossible. The
stuff in the rattle can is a lacquer/enamel, not paint as we know it.
Real fast dry enamels (like that really hot, high VOC stuff I like
that you thin with xylene) cannot hold enough pigment to get to
black. They are mostly solvent and don't have the body to hold
pigment. The only way you can get to black fast dry from here is a
two part catalysed finish, but I am remembering "no Federal case".

So use a long, oil based enamel. Plan your times of spray carefully
so you can stay on schedule and you can make Monday with good
weather. If it is really humid, the paint may not be 100% hard, but
after a couple of hours after the final coat you can bring this into
your house and let it finish out there. I have put sprayed in a large
closet on site with my halogen work lights and they have cured right
out.

My enamel of choice would be Sherwin Williams' "All Surface Enamel".
It is harder than their normal enamels, and wears very well. Called
my guy Brent at SW, and he confirmed this choice (again, limited on
colors in the fast dry department). The product number for satin is
A11B201 (you should verify) and it is available in the store in
black. They have to mix it, but you can buy a quart of it, not a
gallon.
And... this is big... they have it in satin. The number I gave you
reflects the satin base to be used.

IIRC, you have a two stage setup on your HVLP. This stuff is
surprising viscous, so don't be fooled about the black thick syrup
appearance. It is made to be sprayed. (As a thought... I might buy a
couple of quarts, one to mix and test, one to finish coat.) Try
hitting it with 10% (measure carefully...) and test out on a smooth
surface. That should do it. However, if you get any spray problems,
you can go to 20% thinned with no product desegregation. Try 10, 15,
then 20% if you need to go there. And remember, you use long oils to
improve adhesion and finished surface. If your finished surface is
smooth when you spray it, your final surface should be fine.

This SW product is particularly forgiving and I don't think you will
have any problems. It dries to the touch (depending on local weather)
in about three hours. You can recoat in 8, but can wait as long as
36! Full strength in 21 days.

So my batting order would be:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your equipment by
testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy cardboard. Both
first and second coats should be applied at about 4 mil thick, which
will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil per coat. Your goal is
3 mil finished when both coats are cured. Remember, a dollar bill is
about three mil, so just a bit thicker than that. (Seriously, with
this stuff you could probably go 5 - 6 mil of thinned product, but it
would take too long to dry)
3) Tomorrow, inspect surface in the morning for an settling dust or
bugs and spray first coat. NO sanding, NO scuff sand, NOTHING unless
you need to remove a bug, a nib or flatten a drip. Try brushing off
an contaminants, and only use 320 g and light strokes if you need to
sand
4) Last thing before going to bed, spray second coat. inspect surface
in the morning for an settling dust or bugs and spray first coat. NO
sanding, NO scuff sand, NOTHING unless you need to remove a bug, a nib
or flatten a drip. Try brushing off an contaminants, and only use 320
g and light strokes if you need to sand.

Remember, paint the detailed cornice work first, then the flats when
spraying anything.

Your project will be dry to the touch when you get up. If you can,
bring it in the house and let it sit out of the way Sat and Sun in a
controlled temp/humidity environment.

This will give it more than 60 hours of total dry time, probably
closer to 65 if you time it correctly. Last coat 6 pm on Friday, and
if you deliver around noon on Mon, that would be about 12 in the
garage, and another 50+ in a controlled environment, your house, to
dry until delivery.

No hill for a climber, eh? Problem solved using all locally available
products.

I have to deliver this puppy Monday morning.

As you can see... not a problem.

Any input is mucho appreciated (Wabbut ... hope you are not too es
spensive.)

I come there one time to paint one time but you say TOO HIY. You TOO
HIY!! Too spensive!! I no pay!!

Seriously, call me on my cell if you have any problemos.

Robert

Swingman wrote:

My plan:

1. Crank up the HVLP sprayer and spray a couple of coats pf BIN


Can't hurt.

2. Sand lightly in between where needed.


Can't hurt either, but only if needed.

3. Spray what? Now I'm at a loss.


I'll let Robert recommend the Sherwin Williams product to shoot since he
knows that stuff well. You don't want my recommendation of which automotive
base coat to shoot... Should really be a pretty simple thing though Karl -
just a satin black.

One question I would have though, is how far will this new piece be hung
from the original? Black is like any other color in that there are shades
of black. Basic black, sometimes called universal black, would probably be
sufficient, especially if the two are a few or more feet apart. You might
want to shoot a scrap and take it over and compare the two. If they are too
close, any difference will be all too apparent, but if they're 6 or 10 feet
apart, it probably won't be noticible.



Don't want to make a Federal case out of this, but I only want to do
it once, so recommendations/ideas as far a type of paint, number of
coats, flat black base coat(s) with use of a final clear coat, etc.?


I wouldn't bother with the two different paints. I'd just shoot the satin
over the BIN. Less gun clean up, less mixing, and all that. No real
benefit to you in going with a flat first and then a satin. Since you don't
do a lot of painting, just do yourself a favor and use a good light (mobile
light), and look at your project from every angle before you call it good
and clean your gun. ****es you right off when you get everything cleaned up
only to discover that you can see coverage issues from just the right angle
(usually the angle you just happend to approach the piece from).

Just remember your overlaps when you shoot and don't go for the dry look.
Nice even fairly wet coats, and let them flash per the manufacturer's
suggested time before the next coat. That waiting part can be the worst.
Resist the temptation to get at it again too soon.

As for number of coats - what it takes for even coverage. There's no magic
to the number of coats but I would bet it will take 2-3 coats, depending on
how heavy you lay it on. I know I would do it in at least 2 coats. I would
not bother with any clear coat over it. Unless what you buy is specifically
a base coat (I'd consider that unlikely), it will be a finish coat that
requires no clear.

--

-Mike-

-MIKE- wrote:


Yeah, me, too. Hate it. I'm dealing with the same issue with trying to
spray oil enamel on these bookcases. Since I'm a complete newbie at
HVLP I can't give any useful advice, other than don't use it, unless
you're very experienced with your HVLP sprayer.


BAH! Chicken! A scrap of wood, a couple of passes over it and you're good
to go. Head right over to your work piece and see if you can remember just
what the hell you did on the scrap...



--

-Mike-

Swingman wrote:


I don't mind spraying the BIN with HVLP, but I hate the idea of
spraying a high VOC paint to get something to dry faster, so the
rattle can, considering the relative small size of the piece, might
do the trick.

You certainly can use a rattle can and in fact some of the products out
there today from Krylon shoot amazingly well for a rattle can. If you pay
attention to your overlaps you can get a really nice finish with them. I've
used Rustoleum rattle cans too, but not as much. The little bit that I did
worked well enough.

I'd still go with the HVLP though Karl - you'll be able to get a better coat
down, less liklihood of streaks from where you might not have overlapped
well, and a better atomization. You have a large enough area that I'd feel
better with a good 8-10" fan from a gun. To get that from most rattle cans
you have to hold back too far and then you start getting into dry spray
problems.

--

-Mike-

On 2/7/13 1:46 PM, wrote:
snip

So my batting order would be:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your equipment by
testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy cardboard. Both
first and second coats should be applied at about 4 mil thick, which
will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil per coat. Your goal is
3 mil finished when both coats are cured. Remember, a dollar bill is
about three mil, so just a bit thicker than that. (Seriously, with
this stuff you could probably go 5 - 6 mil of thinned product, but it
would take too long to dry)
3) Tomorrow, inspect surface in the morning for an settling dust or
bugs and spray first coat. NO sanding, NO scuff sand, NOTHING unless
you need to remove a bug, a nib or flatten a drip. Try brushing off
an contaminants, and only use 320 g and light strokes if you need to
sand
4) Last thing before going to bed, spray second coat. inspect surface
in the morning for an settling dust or bugs and spray first coat. NO
sanding, NO scuff sand, NOTHING unless you need to remove a bug, a nib
or flatten a drip. Try brushing off an contaminants, and only use 320
g and light strokes if you need to sand.

Remember, paint the detailed cornice work first, then the flats when
spraying anything.

Your project will be dry to the touch when you get up. If you can,
bring it in the house and let it sit out of the way Sat and Sun in a
controlled temp/humidity environment.

This will give it more than 60 hours of total dry time, probably
closer to 65 if you time it correctly. Last coat 6 pm on Friday, and
if you deliver around noon on Mon, that would be about 12 in the
garage, and another 50+ in a controlled environment, your house, to
dry until delivery.

No hill for a climber, eh? Problem solved using all locally available
products.

I have to deliver this puppy Monday morning.

As you can see... not a problem.

Any input is mucho appreciated (Wabbut ... hope you are not too es
spensive.)

I come there one time to paint one time but you say TOO HIY. You TOO
HIY!! Too spensive!! I no pay!!

Seriously, call me on my cell if you have any problemos.

Robert


1. Forget everything I wrote.
2. WTF was this a week ago when I needed it!?!!!! :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/7/2013 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Feb 7, 10:06 am, Swingman wrote:
Well, opinions are like noses, everyone has one... so here's mine.
First, no rattle cans on a job that size with those features/
dimensions/trim profiles. It would probably take 7 - 8 cans to get
the perfect sheen you want, and even then you would have difficulty
doing it on such flat surface. Imagine trying to get a small car hood
surface perfect with a spray can...

Not a "painter", don't play one on TV, and can only be reasonably
certain about one color, "Black" ... sometimes.
..
1. Crank up the HVLP sprayer and spray a couple of coats pf BIN

2. Sand lightly in between where needed.

Since we know each other, I will be more blunt than normal and just
tell you what I would do without the candy coating.

No need to sand beyond 220 g. Not on any surface really, I think most
people do that to put off the inevitable finishing stage a little
longer...

And no sanding between coats. Not on primer, not on finish. Unless
you have a bug that lands in the prime coat or you drop a cup of
coffee on it while it is wet, no sanding. That is an artifact that
has carefully passed down by non professionals for decades. Unless
there is a problem in the finish itself, no need.

Put down two thin coats, and my big thing is to paint the primer like
it is your finish coat. Don't slough off the finish because it is
primer and you think you will sand out the imperfections. Your
stroke, your application method and prep should be every bit as good
as it is on the top coat.

So put down (spray) two thin coats (45 minutes between) of BIN and it
should look like it is cast from white plastic. No witness lines, no
sign anywhere that it was actually coated with anything. Just white.
If you see a dust nib, carefully sand it down with 320 gr.

3. Spray what? Now I'm at a loss.

OK... you are now about 2 hours in on the project. (Spray, 45 min
wait, then spray, then an hour plus wait for paint.) Although dry to
the touch, the primer isn't cured out. SO NO SANDING. Sanding raised
dust nibs, fouls the air in your finishing room and can leave witness
lines under your top coat. Since it isn't fully cured, your oil based
material will bond to it nicely, burning in just the right amount.

The client wants the plaque to be "black" like the last photo in the pdf
file. After discussion with him again this morning, we settled upon the
concept of "satin" (he doesn't want it to look "wet") ... no problem there.

Satin makes the finish much easier. Even in an area with high
reflectivity it will hide imperfections better than gloss.

Don't want to make a Federal case out of this, but I only want to do it
once, so recommendations/ideas as far a type of paint, number of coats,
flat black base coat(s) with use of a final clear coat, etc.?

OK... no more of that nonsense. There is every product under the sun
for every application these days. All that **** about home brews,
"something someone heard about" or a Google Guess doesn't count when
you have a paying customer. Get the right product, apply correctly,
collect the job and go on.

The downside to the rattle cans (along with the fact they don't put
out enough material when applying) is a fast dry will murder you on
any imperfections. (As a sidebar, if I was there I would apply a
prime coat with my CAS setup, have a cup of coffee, the apply
another. I would hold you hostage for a cup of day old gumbo, the
apply the first coat of finish with enough flourish to make you think
I was doing something special so I could get more gumbo at dinner...)

Since you don't have a lot of experience with spraying deep toned
enamels, I would use a long pot life, long layout material. They are
forgiving. If applied evenly and to the correct thickness, they will
tighten up enough to cover some of your spray errors. Fast dry
products need to be used on small projects that you can cover quickly
as anything that is applied just a minute or so after first pass will
show. In other words, if you get focused on spraying out the detailed
profiles, your overspray will go on to the flats of this project.
Then when you spray the flats, the overspray will show up under your
top coat and give it a sand or orange peel finish. (Then of course,
you must sand, which is a no-no.)

Even if you are an experienced finisher, painting black can be
problematic. Painting black is fast dry is almost impossible. The
stuff in the rattle can is a lacquer/enamel, not paint as we know it.
Real fast dry enamels (like that really hot, high VOC stuff I like
that you thin with xylene) cannot hold enough pigment to get to
black. They are mostly solvent and don't have the body to hold
pigment. The only way you can get to black fast dry from here is a
two part catalysed finish, but I am remembering "no Federal case".

So use a long, oil based enamel. Plan your times of spray carefully
so you can stay on schedule and you can make Monday with good
weather. If it is really humid, the paint may not be 100% hard, but
after a couple of hours after the final coat you can bring this into
your house and let it finish out there. I have put sprayed in a large
closet on site with my halogen work lights and they have cured right
out.

My enamel of choice would be Sherwin Williams' "All Surface Enamel".
It is harder than their normal enamels, and wears very well. Called
my guy Brent at SW, and he confirmed this choice (again, limited on
colors in the fast dry department). The product number for satin is
A11B201 (you should verify) and it is available in the store in
black. They have to mix it, but you can buy a quart of it, not a
gallon.
And... this is big... they have it in satin. The number I gave you
reflects the satin base to be used.

IIRC, you have a two stage setup on your HVLP. This stuff is
surprising viscous, so don't be fooled about the black thick syrup
appearance. It is made to be sprayed. (As a thought... I might buy a
couple of quarts, one to mix and test, one to finish coat.) Try
hitting it with 10% (measure carefully...) and test out on a smooth
surface. That should do it. However, if you get any spray problems,
you can go to 20% thinned with no product desegregation. Try 10, 15,
then 20% if you need to go there. And remember, you use long oils to
improve adhesion and finished surface. If your finished surface is
smooth when you spray it, your final surface should be fine.

This SW product is particularly forgiving and I don't think you will
have any problems. It dries to the touch (depending on local weather)
in about three hours. You can recoat in 8, but can wait as long as
36! Full strength in 21 days.

So my batting order would be:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your equipment by
testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy cardboard. Both
first and second coats should be applied at about 4 mil thick, which
will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil per coat. Your goal is
3 mil finished when both coats are cured. Remember, a dollar bill is
about three mil, so just a bit thicker than that. (Seriously, with
this stuff you could probably go 5 - 6 mil of thinned product, but it
would take too long to dry)
3) Tomorrow, inspect surface in the morning for an settling dust or
bugs and spray first coat. NO sanding, NO scuff sand, NOTHING unless
you need to remove a bug, a nib or flatten a drip. Try brushing off
an contaminants, and only use 320 g and light strokes if you need to
sand
4) Last thing before going to bed, spray second coat. inspect surface
in the morning for an settling dust or bugs and spray first coat. NO
sanding, NO scuff sand, NOTHING unless you need to remove a bug, a nib
or flatten a drip. Try brushing off an contaminants, and only use 320
g and light strokes if you need to sand.

Remember, paint the detailed cornice work first, then the flats when
spraying anything.

Your project will be dry to the touch when you get up. If you can,
bring it in the house and let it sit out of the way Sat and Sun in a
controlled temp/humidity environment.

This will give it more than 60 hours of total dry time, probably
closer to 65 if you time it correctly. Last coat 6 pm on Friday, and
if you deliver around noon on Mon, that would be about 12 in the
garage, and another 50+ in a controlled environment, your house, to
dry until delivery.

No hill for a climber, eh? Problem solved using all locally available
products.

I have to deliver this puppy Monday morning.

As you can see... not a problem.

Any input is mucho appreciated (Wabbut ... hope you are not too es
spensive.)

I come there one time to paint one time but you say TOO HIY. You TOO
HIY!! Too spensive!! I no pay!!

Seriously, call me on my cell if you have any problemos.

Robert


You better come to Houston and do it for him. We'll have gumbo. ;~)

On 2/7/13 1:56 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


Yeah, me, too. Hate it. I'm dealing with the same issue with trying to
spray oil enamel on these bookcases. Since I'm a complete newbie at
HVLP I can't give any useful advice, other than don't use it, unless
you're very experienced with your HVLP sprayer.


BAH! Chicken! A scrap of wood, a couple of passes over it and you're good
to go. Head right over to your work piece and see if you can remember just
what the hell you did on the scrap...


Easy for you to say! :-)
I'm sure I'll get better, but my spraying ain't meeting my standards yet.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/7/13 1:56 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


Yeah, me, too. Hate it. I'm dealing with the same issue with trying
to spray oil enamel on these bookcases. Since I'm a complete newbie
at HVLP I can't give any useful advice, other than don't use it,
unless you're very experienced with your HVLP sprayer.


BAH! Chicken! A scrap of wood, a couple of passes over it and
you're good to go. Head right over to your work piece and see if
you can remember just what the hell you did on the scrap...


Easy for you to say! :-)
I'm sure I'll get better, but my spraying ain't meeting my standards
yet.

Back to that scrap of wood for a few more passes... Patience my boy -
remember, any job worth doing is worth doing over.

--

-Mike-

Swingman wrote:

Did you use a topcoat, or just go with a satin finish?


FWIW, the shinier it is the blacker it will look.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 2/7/2013 1:46 PM, wrote:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your equipment by
testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy cardboard. Both
first and second coats should be applied at about 4 mil thick, which
will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil per coat. Your goal is
3 mil finished when both coats are cured. Remember, a dollar bill is
about three mil, so just a bit thicker than that. (Seriously, with
this stuff you could probably go 5 - 6 mil of thinned product, but it
would take too long to dry)

On schedule:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...50052432712850

Scroll Right for dos mas ....

Thanks, Robert!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:


On schedule:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...50052432712850


Now that you've done that much, the rest should be easy. It's all the same
thing - just a different color.

--

-Mike-

On 2/7/2013 1:46 PM, wrote:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your equipment by
testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy cardboard. Both
first and second coats should be applied at about 4 mil thick, which
will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil per coat. Your goal is
3 mil finished when both coats are cured. Remember, a dollar bill is
about three mil, so just a bit thicker than that. (Seriously, with
this stuff you could probably go 5 - 6 mil of thinned product, but it
would take too long to dry)

****!!! ... I may be testing that.

I had to thin to between 10 and 15% to get a good pattern, but, despite
some test runs, my rhythm/groove with the BIN did not work as well with
the thicker, oil based paint ... I got a bit too heavy handed in the
cornice area, and a couple of other spots, and laid it on a bit too
damned thick ... with resultant runs.

.... looks like I'll be doing some sanding this evening before the last coat.

Why I farking hate painting ... if this had been a stain/topcoat job I'd
been finished last night.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/7/2013 11:46 AM, wrote:

Your project will be dry to the touch when you get up. If you can,
bring it in the house and let it sit out of the way Sat and Sun in a
controlled temp/humidity environment.

Snipped all the great instruction....

Seriously, call me on my cell if you have any problemos.

Robert


The great news is that Robert is back and posting
another great story on "how to do it"....

You have been missed...

On Feb 8, 10:07*am, Pat Barber wrote:

The great news is that Robert is back and posting
another great story on "how to do it"....

You have been missed...

Thanks, Pat. I appreciate it. It was actually Karl that nudged be
back here.

Although he may be regretting that now.... :^)

Robert

On 2/8/2013 8:39 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/7/2013 1:46 PM, wrote:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your equipment by
testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy cardboard. Both
first and second coats should be applied at about 4 mil thick, which
will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil per coat. Your goal is
3 mil finished when both coats are cured. Remember, a dollar bill is
about three mil, so just a bit thicker than that. (Seriously, with
this stuff you could probably go 5 - 6 mil of thinned product, but it
would take too long to dry)

****!!! ... I may be testing that.

I had to thin to between 10 and 15% to get a good pattern, but, despite
some test runs, my rhythm/groove with the BIN did not work as well with
the thicker, oil based paint ... I got a bit too heavy handed in the
cornice area, and a couple of other spots, and laid it on a bit too
damned thick ... with resultant runs.

... looks like I'll be doing some sanding this evening before the last
coat.

Why I farking hate painting ... if this had been a stain/topcoat job I'd
been finished last night.

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994

Scroll right for cornice detail ...

(Tough to photograph "black" with an iPhone)

After thoroughly digesting all of Robert's advice, I'm convinced the
product used will provide the client with a finish that will be much
better suited for his purpose than anything I could have come up with
myself.

Moral: You need to rely on expert advice, ask a real EXPERT ... with a
verifiable and proven track record!

Thanks for all your help, Robert!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/9/2013 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/8/2013 8:39 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/7/2013 1:46 PM, wrote:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your equipment by
testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy cardboard. Both
first and second coats should be applied at about 4 mil thick, which
will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil per coat. Your goal is
3 mil finished when both coats are cured. Remember, a dollar bill is
about three mil, so just a bit thicker than that. (Seriously, with
this stuff you could probably go 5 - 6 mil of thinned product, but it
would take too long to dry)

****!!! ... I may be testing that.

I had to thin to between 10 and 15% to get a good pattern, but, despite
some test runs, my rhythm/groove with the BIN did not work as well with
the thicker, oil based paint ... I got a bit too heavy handed in the
cornice area, and a couple of other spots, and laid it on a bit too
damned thick ... with resultant runs.

... looks like I'll be doing some sanding this evening before the last
coat.

Why I farking hate painting ... if this had been a stain/topcoat job I'd
been finished last night.

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994


Scroll right for cornice detail ...

(Tough to photograph "black" with an iPhone)

After thoroughly digesting all of Robert's advice, I'm convinced the
product used will provide the client with a finish that will be much
better suited for his purpose than anything I could have come up with
myself.

Moral: You need to rely on expert advice, ask a real EXPERT ... with a
verifiable and proven track record!

Thanks for all your help, Robert!



Looks Great! Nwo all you have left is all that white lettering. G,D,&R

On 2/9/2013 8:39 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2013 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994



Scroll right for cornice detail ...

(Tough to photograph "black" with an iPhone)

After thoroughly digesting all of Robert's advice, I'm convinced the
product used will provide the client with a finish that will be much
better suited for his purpose than anything I could have come up with
myself.

Moral: You need to rely on expert advice, ask a real EXPERT ... with a
verifiable and proven track record!

Thanks for all your help, Robert!



Looks Great! Nwo all you have left is all that white lettering. G,D,&R

Thanks ... LOL, not my job, mon!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 7 Feb 2013 09:48:29 -0700, Swingman wrote
(in article ):

On 2/7/2013 10:23 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/7/13 10:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Not a "painter", don't play one on TV, and can only be reasonably
certain about one color, "Black" ... sometimes.

Looking for input:

And .... yes, I HATE PAINT/PAINTING/ANY THING PAINTING!

Thanks,


Yeah, me, too. Hate it. I'm dealing with the same issue with trying to
spray oil enamel on these bookcases. Since I'm a complete newbie at HVLP
I can't give any useful advice, other than don't use it, unless you're
very experienced with your HVLP sprayer.

I wanted something harder and faster drying for the shelves than the oil
going on the rest of the cases. I ended up buying some of this....
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
...and it went on beautifully smooth and even. It dried very fast and
can be re-coated within an hour. If you're talking Monday, I wouldn't
want to be waiting 24 hours for oil paint out of a gallon can to dry.

I was thinking about that very product. I've used it before on small
bits of filler trim that needed to match a black appliance on kitchen
cabinets, and it worke nicely.

I don't mind spraying the BIN with HVLP, but I hate the idea of spraying
a high VOC paint to get something to dry faster, so the rattle can,
considering the relative small size of the piece, might do the trick.

Did you use a topcoat, or just go with a satin finish?

Thanks ...



Might not meet your criteria, but I needed to paint some shelves in an
entertainment center black...

A thorough coat of rattle can flat black (no reason for the flat other than I
had some on hand).
This was followed by a finish of poly.
I got the dead black finish with a nice hard layer for protection, worked
great!

-Bruce

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...76039651757986

Yep, that's Linda's Great Aunt's antique dining table, in our dining
room ... nuff said

(I mean, Robert/Nailshooter said he wanted 48 hours of cure time in a
_temperature controlled_ environment, so be it!)



--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sat, 9 Feb 2013 08:22:20 -0700, Bruce wrote
(in article ):

On Thu, 7 Feb 2013 09:48:29 -0700, Swingman wrote
(in article ):

On 2/7/2013 10:23 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/7/13 10:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Not a "painter", don't play one on TV, and can only be reasonably
certain about one color, "Black" ... sometimes.

Looking for input:

And .... yes, I HATE PAINT/PAINTING/ANY THING PAINTING!

Thanks,


Yeah, me, too. Hate it. I'm dealing with the same issue with trying to
spray oil enamel on these bookcases. Since I'm a complete newbie at HVLP
I can't give any useful advice, other than don't use it, unless you're
very experienced with your HVLP sprayer.

I wanted something harder and faster drying for the shelves than the oil
going on the rest of the cases. I ended up buying some of this....
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
...and it went on beautifully smooth and even. It dried very fast and
can be re-coated within an hour. If you're talking Monday, I wouldn't
want to be waiting 24 hours for oil paint out of a gallon can to dry.

I was thinking about that very product. I've used it before on small
bits of filler trim that needed to match a black appliance on kitchen
cabinets, and it worke nicely.

I don't mind spraying the BIN with HVLP, but I hate the idea of spraying
a high VOC paint to get something to dry faster, so the rattle can,
considering the relative small size of the piece, might do the trick.

Did you use a topcoat, or just go with a satin finish?

Thanks ...



Might not meet your criteria, but I needed to paint some shelves in an
entertainment center black...

A thorough coat of rattle can flat black (no reason for the flat other than I

had some on hand).
This was followed by a finish of poly.
I got the dead black finish with a nice hard layer for protection, worked
great!

-Bruce


I should add that I smoothed out the spray paint with a gentle rub of 0000
wool before the poly. Ended up with a glass smooth surface.
-Bruce

On 2/9/2013 9:37 AM, Swingman wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...76039651757986


Yep, that's Linda's Great Aunt's antique dining table, in our dining
room ... nuff said

(I mean, Robert/Nailshooter said he wanted 48 hours of cure time in a
_temperature controlled_ environment, so be it!)





Looks like a good place to spray that final coat! LOL

On 2/9/2013 9:53 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2013 9:37 AM, Swingman wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...76039651757986



Yep, that's Linda's Great Aunt's antique dining table, in our dining
room ... nuff said

(I mean, Robert/Nailshooter said he wanted 48 hours of cure time in a
_temperature controlled_ environment, so be it!)





Looks like a good place to spray that final coat! LOL

Here ... hold my beer and watch this!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994


Scroll right for cornice detail ...



You "exceeded my expectations"! Nice job!

Bill

On 2/9/13 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/8/2013 8:39 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/7/2013 1:46 PM, wrote:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your equipment by
testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy cardboard. Both
first and second coats should be applied at about 4 mil thick, which
will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil per coat. Your goal is
3 mil finished when both coats are cured. Remember, a dollar bill is
about three mil, so just a bit thicker than that. (Seriously, with
this stuff you could probably go 5 - 6 mil of thinned product, but it
would take too long to dry)

****!!! ... I may be testing that.

I had to thin to between 10 and 15% to get a good pattern, but, despite
some test runs, my rhythm/groove with the BIN did not work as well with
the thicker, oil based paint ... I got a bit too heavy handed in the
cornice area, and a couple of other spots, and laid it on a bit too
damned thick ... with resultant runs.

... looks like I'll be doing some sanding this evening before the last
coat.

Why I farking hate painting ... if this had been a stain/topcoat job I'd
been finished last night.

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994


Scroll right for cornice detail ...

(Tough to photograph "black" with an iPhone)

After thoroughly digesting all of Robert's advice, I'm convinced the
product used will provide the client with a finish that will be much
better suited for his purpose than anything I could have come up with
myself.

Moral: You need to rely on expert advice, ask a real EXPERT ... with a
verifiable and proven track record!

Thanks for all your help, Robert!


You mean my rattle can advice wasn't good enough!?!? :-D

Looks to be about the same (perhaps a notch better) texture that I got
on the bookcases I installed yesterday. I'm sure your client will be
thrilled... mine was. Sometimes (most times) the standard to which we
hold ourselves is a lot higher than consumer expectation in this world
of Ikea and the $399 armoire.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/9/2013 10:21 AM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994


Scroll right for cornice detail ...



You "exceeded my expectations"! Nice job!

Bill

Thank you, Bill ... mine too. Strained both me, and my little Earlex
Spray Station 5000 HVLP, to the max of both our abilities.

Robert/Nailshooter gets all the credit ... I just waved the wand (and
not a very good job of that).

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/9/2013 10:39 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/9/13 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994



Scroll right for cornice detail ...

(Tough to photograph "black" with an iPhone)

After thoroughly digesting all of Robert's advice, I'm convinced the
product used will provide the client with a finish that will be much
better suited for his purpose than anything I could have come up with
myself.

Moral: You need to rely on expert advice, ask a real EXPERT ... with a
verifiable and proven track record!

Thanks for all your help, Robert!


You mean my rattle can advice wasn't good enough!?!? :-D

Hell, I was thinking along those lines myself .. great minds, wot?

And I appreciate the effort.

Looks to be about the same (perhaps a notch better) texture that I got
on the bookcases I installed yesterday. I'm sure your client will be
thrilled... mine was. Sometimes (most times) the standard to which we
hold ourselves is a lot higher than consumer expectation in this world
of Ikea and the $399 armoire.

Then, a more experienced-in-the-matter mind than either of us enters the
picture.

The problem, as Robert explained it after I went through the clients use
of the product (which he had the foresight to request before making any
recommendation ... _a dead giveaway of both knowledge and experience_ ),
is that none of the "rattle can" products will stand up to the client's
(a corporate awards company with offices in several states) intended use
.... the likelihood of multiple applications of stick-on lettering,
which, with that type of finish, will have a tendency to both craze
and/or lift/peel the finish over time.

Couldn't take the the chance ... it's my name/reputation that goes in/on it.

Texture, and the rattle cans took a back seat to that ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/9/13 11:02 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/9/2013 10:39 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/9/13 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994




Scroll right for cornice detail ...

(Tough to photograph "black" with an iPhone)

After thoroughly digesting all of Robert's advice, I'm convinced the
product used will provide the client with a finish that will be much
better suited for his purpose than anything I could have come up with
myself.

Moral: You need to rely on expert advice, ask a real EXPERT ... with a
verifiable and proven track record!

Thanks for all your help, Robert!


You mean my rattle can advice wasn't good enough!?!? :-D

Hell, I was thinking along those lines myself .. great minds, wot?

And I appreciate the effort.

Looks to be about the same (perhaps a notch better) texture that I got
on the bookcases I installed yesterday. I'm sure your client will be
thrilled... mine was. Sometimes (most times) the standard to which we
hold ourselves is a lot higher than consumer expectation in this world
of Ikea and the $399 armoire.

Then, a more experienced-in-the-matter mind than either of us enters the
picture.

The problem, as Robert explained it after I went through the clients use
of the product (which he had the foresight to request before making any
recommendation ... _a dead giveaway of both knowledge and experience_ ),
is that none of the "rattle can" products will stand up to the client's
(a corporate awards company with offices in several states) intended use
... the likelihood of multiple applications of stick-on lettering,
which, with that type of finish, will have a tendency to both craze
and/or lift/peel the finish over time.

Couldn't take the the chance ... it's my name/reputation that goes in/on
it.

Texture, and the rattle cans took a back seat to that ...


Just to be clear, I only "rattled" the flats of the shelves. All the
faces and framework was HVLP.
I hope to get good enough to one day look back at the results I achieved
as "botched." :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Feb 9, 10:48*am, Swingman wrote:

You "exceeded my expectations"! *Nice job!

Bill

Thank you, Bill ... mine too. Strained both me, and my little Earlex
Spray Station 5000 HVLP, to the max of both our abilities.

I am sure it looks much better to everyone else than it does to you.
Looking at the pics, it looks like it turned out great! With a bit of
rake light on it, the gloss looks even and without holidays, which is
what folks see first. Success!!

Robert/Nailshooter gets all the credit ... I just waved the wand (and
not a very good job of that).

You are much to generous. First, glad to help. Second, YOU did all
the work. I was glad I had an available product in the aresenal
that would work for you. Sometimes identifying the product to be used
is half the battle, along with the ensuing logistics for its
successful application.

And my typing fingers were lubricated with the thoughts of the next
bowl or three of gumbo.... ;^)

Seriously, it looks great and I am sure the clients will be
thrilled. Good job.

Robert

"Swingman" wrote:

Why I farking hate painting ... if this had been a stain/topcoat job
I'd
been finished last night.

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:
------------------------------------------------------------
Compared to me, you are an absolute lover of painting.

Looks like you got away with one.g

Congrats.

Lew

Swingman wrote:
On 2/8/2013 8:39 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/7/2013 1:46 PM, wrote:

1) Get both coats BIN on today
2) Buy paint today and determine thinning amount for your
equipment by testing it out on some scrap, or my favorite, glossy
cardboard. Both first and second coats should be applied at about
4 mil thick, which will give you a cured surface of about 1.5 mil
per coat. Your goal is 3 mil finished when both coats are cured.
Remember, a dollar bill is about three mil, so just a bit thicker
than that. (Seriously, with this stuff you could probably go 5 -
6 mil of thinned product, but it would take too long to dry)

****!!! ... I may be testing that.

I had to thin to between 10 and 15% to get a good pattern, but,
despite some test runs, my rhythm/groove with the BIN did not work
as well with the thicker, oil based paint ... I got a bit too heavy
handed in the cornice area, and a couple of other spots, and laid it
on a bit too damned thick ... with resultant runs.

... looks like I'll be doing some sanding this evening before the
last coat.

Why I farking hate painting ... if this had been a stain/topcoat job
I'd been finished last night.

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...47907740904994

Scroll right for cornice detail ...

(Tough to photograph "black" with an iPhone)

After thoroughly digesting all of Robert's advice, I'm convinced the
product used will provide the client with a finish that will be much
better suited for his purpose than anything I could have come up with
myself.

Moral: You need to rely on expert advice, ask a real EXPERT ... with a
verifiable and proven track record!

Thanks for all your help, Robert!

Looks good. I'd say you owe nailshooter a six pack. Or maybe a fifth of a
nice, single malt Scotch whisky. The Glenlivet is smooth...

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote:

Looks good. I'd say you owe nailshooter a six pack. Or maybe a
fifth of a nice, single malt Scotch whisky. The Glenlivet is
smooth...
------------------------------------
Especially when cut 50/50 with Drambuie over ice.

Lew

On Feb 9, 3:35*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote:
Looks good. *I'd say you owe nailshooter a six pack. *Or maybe a
fifth of a nice, single malt Scotch whisky. *The Glenlivet is
smooth...

------------------------------------
Especially when cut 50/50 with Drambuie over ice.

Lew

Nah.... I think I am still probably a couple of gallons of home made
gumbo ahead of the game.

Robert

wrote:

Nah.... I think I am still probably a couple of gallons of home made
gumbo ahead of the game.
------------------------------------
Whatever floats your boat,g

Lew

On 2/9/2013 2:54 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Swingman" wrote:

Why I farking hate painting ... if this had been a stain/topcoat job
I'd
been finished last night.

End result: The spray job, while not the "Steinway Piano" picture of
perfection I would prefer, will suffice ... it is, after all NOT a
farking Steinway Piano:
------------------------------------------------------------
Compared to me, you are an absolute lover of painting.

Looks like you got away with one.g

Congrats.

Thanks, Lew ... it's mo "Damn, I dodged almost all of that bullet!"

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/10/2013 4:40 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
wrote:

Nah.... I think I am still probably a couple of gallons of home made
gumbo ahead of the game.
------------------------------------
Whatever floats your boat,g

In case you missed it, here's what "floats the boat" around here ...
AND, you can barely make out the top of the gumbo pot just above Leon's hat:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...81330364748930

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Feb 10, 12:21*pm, Swingman wrote:


https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...dShopJustStuff...

Good times!!

Robert