About Us

Mike Marlow[_2_]

Mike Marlow wrote:
Len wrote:
I am spraying some new cabinets with Resisthane Plus. The sequence I
am using is:

0) sand smooth
1) spray water based dye for color
1a) warm the Resisthane and cabinets to about 80 degrees.
2) spray a sealer coat of Resisthane
3) lightly sand to get rid of any fuzz from raising grain
again
4) spray 2 coats of Resisthane.
5) sand until surface is smooth - remove 75% of "bumps".
6) rub with steel wool until smooth and no "bumps"
7) wax

It is a lot of work. I am using a 4 stage Fuji HVLP gun. The
Resisthane seems to go on wet and dries in about 30 minutes. I
re-spray after a couple of hours and am surprised that the "bumps"
appear after step 3. Do I need to thin the Resisthane? Spray more
coats before it will level? Any help would be appreciated

Can you take a pictiure of the "bumps"? It's hard to guess at what
you mean by that term since it can mean so many things. Here's a
couple of ideas to get thouhghts going... (BTW - I have no idea what
Resisthane is, or how it behaves)...

1) If it's orange peel, which is what you commonly see in car
finishes, and literally looks like the surface of an orange peel,
then that's a sign that your first coat was put on too dry. It's not
likely you will fill that kind of a surface to your liking with just
added coats, before you find yourself with too much build up. You
can shoot a couple of heavy coats on, and then knock it down with
1000 grit until it is dead flat, and then out on a good medium wet to
wet coat or two. Or, you can just knock down what you have now with
1000 grit and go back at it in the same way.
2) If the bumps are dust nibs, just knock them down dead flat with
1000 grit and then buff it back to the shine you want with rubbing
compound.
3) Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for recoats.
If they tell you 10 minutes, then do that. If they tell you to scuff
the surface after 2 hours, then do that. Most importantly, follow
their instructions on thinning.

4) No need to thin for the final coats as long as it is shooting
well. Regulate your speed to get a heavier and even coat on. Watch
your pattern as it goes down. Make sure you are getting a 50%
overlap and that you are getting a good wet coat. Your should feel
like you are pulling a very thin sheet of plastic over the piece as
you spray. There is no getting around watching your spray go down. You
absolutely have to watch in order to know how fast to move your
gun.
Most people make the mistake of shooting too light of a coat and they
create things like orange peel. A good medium wet coat will cover
and lay out flat, while still being light enough so that it does not
sag or run.

Hey Len - how did you make out?

--

-Mike-

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
spraying Resisthane Plus	Len[_4_]	Woodworking	3	February 1st 13 02:11 AM
Spraying lacquer	Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr.	Woodworking	18	January 24th 09 03:01 AM
Spraying conundrum	todd	Woodworking	21	January 6th 06 01:15 AM
spraying poly?	Renata	Woodworking	18	October 25th 05 06:32 PM
Spraying Preservative	bhads	UK diy	6	October 5th 05 02:27 PM

Menu

About Us