My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be mounted on
the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where the screws go, the
wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on the
doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

On Sun, 04 Nov 2012 22:15:19 -0700, Steve B wrote:

My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be mounted
on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where the screws
go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on the
doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

How about using liquid nails. Have found that this stuff hold well.

Paul T.

Steve B wrote:
My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be
mounted on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where
the screws go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on
the doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?


Maybe mount some rails to the doors first, where you can get a good screw
bite into the door, and then mount the racks to the rails?

--

-Mike-

Steve B wrote:

My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be
mounted on
the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where the screws go,
the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on the
doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve


The liquid nails is a good suggestion, if the racks lend themselves to its
use.

The rails might just be my choice. I would use "French Cleats" instead of
just rails to screw into.

If you are not familiar with French Cleats," the concept is simple, take a 1
x 4 the length of the door, make a 45degree cut the length of the board
centered in the length of the board. Mount one half on the door with the
long edge of the 45 away from the door. Mount the other half with the long
edge of the 45 away from the rack. Then hang the rack on the door cleat.
You might want to use one of these at the top of the rack and one at the
bottom to make the rack hang even.

Deb

On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:
I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the racks don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the racks to the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the cleats during normal use. Can always permanently attach them, later, if so.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:
I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the racks
don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the racks to
the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the cleats during
normal use. Can always permanently attach them, later, if so.


I like French Cleats for things that I might want to move around, and even
for some things that would be more permanent, but that don't lend themselves
well to simply screwing in place (asthetics, thin backing, etc.). I'm
missing why there have been a couple of suggestions for French Cleats for
this task though. Seems like it's extra work for no real benefit. What am
I missing?

--

-Mike-

On 11/5/2012 7:06 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:
I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the racks don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the racks to the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the cleats during normal use. Can always permanently attach them, later, if so.

A single screw through the rack part of the French cleat into the
matching half attached to the cabinet, or make the FC a little wider
than the rack and use a small finish nail, on either side of the rack,
will be enough to stop any lateral movement.

Although it appears in the OP's situation that simply attaching the
store bought racks to a rail that spans the door panel first, then
screwing that assembly to the top rail, or both stiles, may be simpler.

But French cleats will surely work, and the OP can get an idea of how
they apply to his particular situation by scrolling down to the "Cabinet
Door Adjustable Spice Rack" heading he

http://e-woodshop.net/Projects9.htm

(I have put built in spice racks in a number of kitchen cabinet doors in
the past, but don't do it as rule lately as it does cut back on the
interior depth of the cabinet for other storage and latter ended up
removing about 50% of them at the customer's request).

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 05:47:10 GMT, "P.H.T."
wrote:

On Sun, 04 Nov 2012 22:15:19 -0700, Steve B wrote:

My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be mounted
on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where the screws
go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on the
doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

How about using liquid nails. Have found that this stuff hold well.

+1, unless the doors are painted and he could staple or screw from the
outside and paint/bondo over 'em. Half a tube of caulk'll fix 'er!
WhoooEee!

--
While we have the gift of life, it seems to me that only tragedy
is to allow part of us to die - whether it is our spirit, our
creativity, or our glorious uniqueness.
-- Gilda Radner

Steve B wrote:
My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be
mounted on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where
the screws go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on
the doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

Molly bolts

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 11/5/2012 9:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Steve B wrote:
My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be
mounted on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where
the screws go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on
the doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

Molly bolts



Probably not enough information from the OP.

Molly bolts will work well on hollow core doors that close in pantry
cabinets.

Not so well on frame and panel kitchen wall cabinet doors. I think
the molly would show on the out side faces of the cabinet panels. ;~)

Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2012 9:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Steve B wrote:
My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be
mounted on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where
the screws go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on
the doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

Molly bolts



Probably not enough information from the OP.

Molly bolts will work well on hollow core doors that close in pantry
cabinets.

Not so well on frame and panel kitchen wall cabinet doors. I think
the molly would show on the out side faces of the cabinet panels. ;~)

Yeah, you're right. I was thinking hollow doors, missed that they were
cabinet doors. About his only option is glue. Or fiddle with a piece
partially bridging the stiles. Maybe double stick tape foam too depending
on how heavy they are and what they intend to put in them.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"P.H.T." wrote

How about using liquid nails. Have found that this stuff hold well.

Paul T.

Sorry. Failed to add one detail. Racks are SS, and fasten with screws.

Steve

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Sonny wrote:
On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:
I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the racks
don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the racks to
the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the cleats during
normal use. Can always permanently attach them, later, if so.


I like French Cleats for things that I might want to move around, and even
for some things that would be more permanent, but that don't lend
themselves well to simply screwing in place (asthetics, thin backing,
etc.). I'm missing why there have been a couple of suggestions for French
Cleats for this task though. Seems like it's extra work for no real
benefit. What am I missing?

--

-Mike-

If I use screws, they will come through the face. Yes, that would work, but
it would look bad.

Steve

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be
mounted on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where
the screws go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on
the doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

Molly bolts

--

dadiOH


Wouldn't that look bad on the face of the door?

Steve

Steve B wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Sonny wrote:
On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:
I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the
racks don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the
racks to the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the
cleats during normal use. Can always permanently attach them,
later, if so.

I like French Cleats for things that I might want to move around,
and even for some things that would be more permanent, but that
don't lend themselves well to simply screwing in place (asthetics,
thin backing, etc.). I'm missing why there have been a couple of
suggestions for French Cleats for this task though. Seems like it's
extra work for no real benefit. What am I missing?

--

-Mike-

If I use screws, they will come through the face. Yes, that would
work, but it would look bad.


If they will come through the door, then definitely don't use screws - use
bolts with nice looking nuts! Screw points are so ugly.

So - you can't span the thin part with a cleat (screwed into the styles), to
which you could screw the racks?

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Sonny wrote:
On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:
I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the
racks don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the
racks to the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the
cleats during normal use. Can always permanently attach them,
later, if so.

I like French Cleats for things that I might want to move around,
and even for some things that would be more permanent, but that
don't lend themselves well to simply screwing in place (asthetics,
thin backing, etc.). I'm missing why there have been a couple of
suggestions for French Cleats for this task though. Seems like it's
extra work for no real benefit. What am I missing?

--

-Mike-

If I use screws, they will come through the face. Yes, that would
work, but it would look bad.


If they will come through the door, then definitely don't use screws - use
bolts with nice looking nuts! Screw points are so ugly.

So - you can't span the thin part with a cleat (screwed into the styles),
to which you could screw the racks?

--

-Mike-

I am a metal worker. I do have woodworking tools, and I am getting into
that. The doors have an outer frame that is 3/4" thick. The inset face is
1/2" thick. I think that would be too thin to screw into and trust to hold.
THEREFORE, I am asking for suggestions to mount either plywood, or French
cleats, as suggested, to the back faces of the insets. Do you think that
the 3/4" frame is thick enough to hold the racks, contents, etc, with just
screws?

Steve

On 11/5/2012 11:00 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2012 9:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Steve B wrote:
My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be
mounted on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where
the screws go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on
the doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

Molly bolts



Probably not enough information from the OP.

Molly bolts will work well on hollow core doors that close in pantry
cabinets.

Not so well on frame and panel kitchen wall cabinet doors. I think
the molly would show on the out side faces of the cabinet panels. ;~)

Yeah, you're right. I was thinking hollow doors, missed that they were
cabinet doors. About his only option is glue. Or fiddle with a piece
partially bridging the stiles. Maybe double stick tape foam too depending
on how heavy they are and what they intend to put in them.


As others have stated, a french cleat. Or a piece of solid wood to span
the panel and screw into the door frame. both sides, top, bottom, and or
middle. Attach the rack to those solid pieces of wood.

On 11/5/2012 11:04 AM, Steve B wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Sonny wrote:
On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:
I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the racks
don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the racks to
the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the cleats during
normal use. Can always permanently attach them, later, if so.


I like French Cleats for things that I might want to move around, and even
for some things that would be more permanent, but that don't lend
themselves well to simply screwing in place (asthetics, thin backing,
etc.). I'm missing why there have been a couple of suggestions for French
Cleats for this task though. Seems like it's extra work for no real
benefit. What am I missing?

--

-Mike-

If I use screws, they will come through the face. Yes, that would work, but
it would look bad.

Do not attach the cleat to the panel, attach to the door stiles on both
sides. If the door is an overlay in front of the face frame be sure to
cut the cleats short enough to fit between the face frame stiles.

On 11/5/2012 12:43 PM, Leon wrote:
Do not attach the cleat to the panel, attach to the door stiles on both
sides. If the door is an overlay in front of the face frame be sure to
cut the cleats short enough to fit between the face frame stiles.

Makes you wanna fire up SketchUp and draw the boy a pitcher, don't it?

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Steve B wrote:


I am a metal worker. I do have woodworking tools, and I am getting
into that. The doors have an outer frame that is 3/4" thick. The
inset face is 1/2" thick. I think that would be too thin to screw
into and trust to hold. THEREFORE, I am asking for suggestions to
mount either plywood, or French cleats, as suggested, to the back
faces of the insets. Do you think that the 3/4" frame is thick
enough to hold the racks, contents, etc, with just screws?


Indeed. You can do the French Cleat thing, but your application does not
really benefit from a French Cleat. A simple cleat run across the inside of
the door from style to style (what you refer to as the outer frame) will do
just fine. Probably does not need to be more than 3/4" wide and 1/2" thick
for what you're doing. Predrill holes in the cleat the size of the screws
you're using and predrill the styles smaller so you don't split the wood
when you run the screws in. If you use 1/2" thick cleats and you go 1/2"
into the 3/4" styles, you can use 1" screws (adjust as necessary if you
countersink). That's a lot of holding power. Then, simply screw your racks
to the cleat(s).

--

-Mike-

Steve B wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Sonny wrote:
On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:
I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the
racks don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the
racks to the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the
cleats during normal use. Can always permanently attach them,
later, if so.

I like French Cleats for things that I might want to move around,
and even for some things that would be more permanent, but that
don't lend themselves well to simply screwing in place (asthetics,
thin backing, etc.). I'm missing why there have been a couple of
suggestions for French Cleats for this task though. Seems like
it's extra work for no real benefit. What am I missing?

--

-Mike-

If I use screws, they will come through the face. Yes, that would
work, but it would look bad.


If they will come through the door, then definitely don't use screws
- use bolts with nice looking nuts! Screw points are so ugly.

So - you can't span the thin part with a cleat (screwed into the
styles), to which you could screw the racks?

--

-Mike-

I am a metal worker. I do have woodworking tools, and I am getting
into that. The doors have an outer frame that is 3/4" thick. The
inset face is 1/2" thick. I think that would be too thin to screw
into and trust to hold. THEREFORE, I am asking for suggestions to
mount either plywood, or French cleats, as suggested, to the back
faces of the insets. Do you think that the 3/4" frame is thick
enough to hold the racks, contents, etc, with just screws?

Yes. Unless you are loading the rack with gold or lead.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Steve B wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be
mounted on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where
the screws go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on
the doors? Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

Molly bolts

--

dadiOH


Wouldn't that look bad on the face of the door?

Depends upon whether or not you like little expanded mushrooms

I was thinking hollow door, mollys would be no good for what you want.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 11/5/2012 12:48 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/5/2012 12:43 PM, Leon wrote:
Do not attach the cleat to the panel, attach to the door stiles on both
sides. If the door is an overlay in front of the face frame be sure to
cut the cleats short enough to fit between the face frame stiles.

Makes you wanna fire up SketchUp and draw the boy a pitcher, don't it?




YEEEEEEAH!

"Mike Marlow" wrote

Indeed. You can do the French Cleat thing, but your application does not
really benefit from a French Cleat. A simple cleat run across the inside
of the door from style to style (what you refer to as the outer frame)
will do just fine. Probably does not need to be more than 3/4" wide and
1/2" thick for what you're doing. Predrill holes in the cleat the size of
the screws you're using and predrill the styles smaller so you don't split
the wood when you run the screws in. If you use 1/2" thick cleats and you
go 1/2" into the 3/4" styles, you can use 1" screws (adjust as necessary
if you countersink). That's a lot of holding power. Then, simply screw
your racks to the cleat(s).

--

-Mike-

Will be holding spices and light stuff. I think I will do the small cleats
with pre-drilling will do fine for the weight. I was thinking more of
fastening them to the inset panel, but that's why I asked. Makes a lot more
sense to mount them on the thickest thing available. Shelves sit in there
on little nubs, so no problem shaving those a bit.

Steve

On 11/5/2012 4:39 PM, Steve B wrote:

Will be holding spices and light stuff. I think I will do the small cleats
with pre-drilling will do fine for the weight. I was thinking more of
fastening them to the inset panel, but that's why I asked. Makes a lot more
sense to mount them on the thickest thing available. Shelves sit in there
on little nubs, so no problem shaving those a bit.

Since the loading from a spice rack would exert weight primarily in the
vertical plane, about about a couple small, flathead screws set into the
rack itself (should be a substantial amount of wood in the rails of that
rack which protrude ever so slightly and mate with a couple upside down
keyhole slots carefully machined into the rails (hardwood, hopefully) of
the cabinet door. Then, either a spot of glue, silicone or even a very
small screw at the bottom to prevent it from lifting up and out (you
know how SWMBO gets when in the throes of whipping up a new recipeg)of
the keyhole slots.

On Nov 5, 12:15*am, "Steve B" wrote:
My wife bought some add on door racks. *They are intended to be mounted on
the inside of the doors. *But, in some of the areas where the screws go, the
wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".

What is the best way to do this? *Add some blocks by gluing them on the
doors? *Add some pieces of plywood?

How would you do it?

Steve

An awful lot of kitchen cabinet doors are of the panel type you
describe. Perhaps the racks are simply the wrong length for yours? Or
more likely not designed for this use at all. It seems silly for a
manufacturer to market something that can't be attached to the usual
construction.

I searched online and immediately found some things that are designed
for that purpose. These, for example:

http://www.kitchensource.com/spice-r...piceracks1.htm

.... attach to the top and bottom rails, and allow you to place them at
different heights in order to avoid hitting your shelves. I also saw
some plastic single strip racks that are designed to be attached with
an adhesive strip.

On 11/7/2012 5:25 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

keyhole slots carefully machined into the rails (hardwood, hopefully) of
the cabinet door. Then, either a spot of glue, silicone or even a very
small screw at the bottom to prevent it from lifting up and out (you
know how SWMBO gets when in the throes of whipping up a new recipeg)of
the keyhole slots.

DOH! Should have finished that first cuppa before posting. Meant
STILES, not rails, though the plan/design should work equally well with
either the rails or stiles.

Greg Guarino wrote:

I searched online and immediately found some things that are designed
for that purpose. These, for example:

http://www.kitchensource.com/spice-r...piceracks1.htm

Damn! I designed (or sure thought I was) and built the ones on my website
mentioned above, over six years ago, sight unseen, and either great minds
think alike, or someone has been reading my website.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On 11/7/12 9:56 AM, Swingman wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

I searched online and immediately found some things that are designed
for that purpose. These, for example:

http://www.kitchensource.com/spice-r...piceracks1.htm

Damn! I designed (or sure thought I was) and built the ones on my website
mentioned above, over six years ago, sight unseen, and either great minds
think alike, or someone has been reading my website.


One of the dangers of posting to the interwebs.
I started a drum tuning page... somewhere around 93-95 and I see
cut-n-pasted snips of my info all over the place. Of course, I went into
it knowing and even condoning that. But many don't.

But we now have an entire generation who believe that anything on the
internet is free, including intellectual property like, say... um...
music? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/7/12 9:56 AM, Swingman wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

I searched online and immediately found some things that are designed
for that purpose. These, for example:

http://www.kitchensource.com/spice-r...piceracks1.htm

Damn! I designed (or sure thought I was) and built the ones on my website
mentioned above, over six years ago, sight unseen, and either great minds
think alike, or someone has been reading my website.


One of the dangers of posting to the interwebs.
I started a drum tuning page... somewhere around 93-95 and I see
cut-n-pasted snips of my info all over the place. Of course, I went into
it knowing and even condoning that. But many don't.

But we now have an entire generation who believe that anything on the
internet is free, including intellectual property like, say... um...
music? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Again out of curiosity Swingy..
You and others gave me and others a ton of **** over bottom posting.
Yet you are now bottom posting.
What gives?? Did you see the light????

On 11/7/2012 10:56 AM, Swingman wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

I searched online and immediately found some things that are designed
for that purpose. These, for example:

http://www.kitchensource.com/spice-r...piceracks1.htm

Damn! I designed (or sure thought I was) and built the ones on my website
mentioned above, over six years ago, sight unseen, and either great minds
think alike, or someone has been reading my website.

On 11/7/2012 12:34 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Again out of curiosity Swingy..
You and others gave me and others a ton of **** over bottom posting.
Yet you are now bottom posting.
What gives?? Did you see the light????

On 11/7/2012 10:56 AM, Swingman wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

I searched online and immediately found some things that are designed
for that purpose. These, for example:

http://www.kitchensource.com/spice-r...piceracks1.htm

Damn! I designed (or sure thought I was) and built the ones on my website
mentioned above, over six years ago, sight unseen, and either great minds
think alike, or someone has been reading my website.


LOL ... Tough day/week/month?

I've been bottom posting since FidoNet days.

IIRC, it is top posting, like you did above, that causes the
consternation among the old time NNTP and SMTP protocol users.

That said, you seem a bit confused ... I hope you're feeling OK?

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

tiredofspam wrote:
Again out of curiosity Swingy..
You and others gave me and others a ton of **** over bottom posting.
Yet you are now bottom posting.
What gives?? Did you see the light????


Huh? I don't think many (if any...) here have ever given anyone crap about
bottom posting. It's usually top posters that get the grief. Bottom
posting is the longer lived form of responding.

--

-Mike-

No I'm confused.
been a rough couple of weeks. got a nice fever. they say I won't have
power till Sunday the earliest
Might leave the generator on tonight... even though I only need heat.
last few days the wife and I have been getting sore throats and back
muscle problems from the cold...

This kind of sucks.. in the summer it would be tough in the high
humidity and heat. but the winter in cold it's tough to get warm.
no hot showers in the morn.

It's me..

Sorry.

On 11/7/2012 1:59 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/7/2012 12:34 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Again out of curiosity Swingy..
You and others gave me and others a ton of **** over bottom posting.
Yet you are now bottom posting.
What gives?? Did you see the light????

On 11/7/2012 10:56 AM, Swingman wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

I searched online and immediately found some things that are designed
for that purpose. These, for example:

http://www.kitchensource.com/spice-r...piceracks1.htm

Damn! I designed (or sure thought I was) and built the ones on my
website
mentioned above, over six years ago, sight unseen, and either great
minds
think alike, or someone has been reading my website.


LOL ... Tough day/week/month?

I've been bottom posting since FidoNet days.

IIRC, it is top posting, like you did above, that causes the
consternation among the old time NNTP and SMTP protocol users.

That said, you seem a bit confused ... I hope you're feeling OK?

On 11/7/2012 4:53 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
tiredofspam wrote:
Again out of curiosity Swingy..
You and others gave me and others a ton of **** over bottom posting.
Yet you are now bottom posting.
What gives?? Did you see the light????


Huh? I don't think many (if any...) here have ever given anyone crap about
bottom posting. It's usually top posters that get the grief. Bottom
posting is the longer lived form of responding.

Yea I'm brain dead.
I flipped it the other day thinking when I upgraded my laptop that I had
it wrong..

See other post.

tiredofspam wrote:
No I'm confused.
been a rough couple of weeks. got a nice fever. they say I won't have
power till Sunday the earliest

That sucks!

Might leave the generator on tonight... even though I only need heat.
last few days the wife and I have been getting sore throats and back
muscle problems from the cold...


Use that generator brother! That's why God created them ya know...


This kind of sucks.. in the summer it would be tough in the high
humidity and heat. but the winter in cold it's tough to get warm.
no hot showers in the morn.


No hot showers? Ohhhhh... PU! Please post from the far side of the
room...

--

-Mike-

On 11/7/2012 5:03 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
No I'm confused.
been a rough couple of weeks. got a nice fever. they say I won't have
power till Sunday the earliest

Damn ... sorry to hear that. Besides numerous hurricane power outages
that lasted up to two weeks here on the Gulf Coast, after TS Allison
back in 01 I spent 30 days in my flooded wreckage of a home protecting
my property, with no electricity or amenities of any kind and my family
farmed out to friends.

Bad enough getting older, but remove the creature comforts and things
get downright unpleasant. We're pulling for you.

Hang in there, Buddy ... things will get better.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 11/7/2012 6:26 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
tiredofspam wrote:
No I'm confused.
been a rough couple of weeks. got a nice fever. they say I won't have
power till Sunday the earliest

That sucks!

Might leave the generator on tonight... even though I only need heat.
last few days the wife and I have been getting sore throats and back
muscle problems from the cold...


Use that generator brother! That's why God created them ya know...


This kind of sucks.. in the summer it would be tough in the high
humidity and heat. but the winter in cold it's tough to get warm.
no hot showers in the morn.


No hot showers? Ohhhhh... PU! Please post from the far side of the
room...

I've had three showers since the storm.
I go over to friends and neighbors that have power.
I miss that morning shower to warm up.
We get out of bed and the house is 50 or less the last 2 or 3 days.
I couldn't even pull the pull starter 2 days ago it was so cold.

Yea, I would stink if I knew... the wife is going to a friends daily for
showers. She has to for her job. Me, I'm working at home so I can get
by, but it's not pleasant. I like a shower or 2 a day. Morning and after
volleyball when I play...

Trust me, I'm not complaining.. there are people out there that have it
a lot worse... I have a house, and don't have to rebuild. I had mine
last year... when I flooded in Irene (not too bad). I was saved this year.

The simple answer is yes, you can attach to door frame with small
screws on 3/4" stock...

See these examples:
http://www.rev-a-shelf.com/rev-pages...yFilter ID=52

On 11/5/2012 9:34 AM, Steve B wrote:


I am a metal worker. I do have woodworking tools, and I am getting into
that. The doors have an outer frame that is 3/4" thick. The inset face is
1/2" thick. I think that would be too thin to screw into and trust to hold.
THEREFORE, I am asking for suggestions to mount either plywood, or French
cleats, as suggested, to the back faces of the insets. Do you think that
the 3/4" frame is thick enough to hold the racks, contents, etc, with just
screws?