Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI

Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades. Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.

(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)

On Sun, 28 Oct 2012 05:33:31 -0700 (PDT),
(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)

Maybe it might be useful *once* you get your blade tensioned properly.

wrote:
Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI

Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades.
Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.

(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)

I inherited an expensive bandsaw tension gauge many years ago and realized
then that, at least on my bandsaw, the factory marks were way too low also.
Makes a big difference when using the proper tension, so a gauge is a must
if you want to get the best out of some of the older bandsaws, and this is
an affordable way to go about it.

Well done.

--
www.ewoodshop.com

On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:
Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI

Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades. Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.

(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)



Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator
that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the
blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,
and then less when not cutting.

While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact
science temperature changes every thing.

On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while
cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the
wheel cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to
retention considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a
few minutes of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.

Something to think about.

On Sunday, October 28, 2012 9:46:40 AM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI



Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades.

Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.



(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)



I inherited an expensive bandsaw tension gauge many years ago and realized

then that, at least on my bandsaw, the factory marks were way too low also.

Makes a big difference when using the proper tension, so a gauge is a must

if you want to get the best out of some of the older bandsaws, and this is

an affordable way to go about it.



Well done.



--

www.ewoodshop.com

Thank you Swing! I've been putting off making one for too long and regret not making it sooner.

On Sunday, October 28, 2012 10:14:13 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI



Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades. Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.



(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)







Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator

that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the

blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,

and then less when not cutting.



While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact

science temperature changes every thing.



On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while

cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the

wheel cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to

retention considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a

few minutes of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.



Something to think about.

That never occurred to me. That's is a very valid point regarding the effects of temperature. How about an internal blade cooling system that maintains 25 C?

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:
Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI

Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades.
Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.

(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)



Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator
that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the
blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,
and then less when not cutting.

While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact
science temperature changes every thing.

On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while
cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the wheel
cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to retention
considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a few minutes
of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.

Something to think about.

Yep, making it more important to be properly tensioned to start with.

Figuring that industries relying on the bandsaw would be addressing that as
a concern, this is an interesting read on the subject, which also raises
the question, how do you put a "back-crown" on a bandsaw blade?

https://www.fornis.net/system/files/machining_LUS.pdf

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On 10/28/2012 9:41 AM, wrote:
On Sunday, October 28, 2012 10:14:13 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI



Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades. Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.



(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)







Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator

that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the

blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,

and then less when not cutting.



While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact

science temperature changes every thing.



On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while

cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the

wheel cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to

retention considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a

few minutes of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.



Something to think about.

That never occurred to me. That's is a very valid point regarding the effects of temperature. How about an internal blade cooling system that maintains 25 C?

The devil is in the details. LOL. I'm looking forward to you coming up
with the blade cooling solution.!

On 10/28/2012 9:41 AM, wrote:
On Sunday, October 28, 2012 10:14:13 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI



Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades. Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.



(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)







Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator

that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the

blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,

and then less when not cutting.



While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact

science temperature changes every thing.



On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while

cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the

wheel cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to

retention considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a

few minutes of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.



Something to think about.

That never occurred to me. That's is a very valid point regarding the effects of temperature. How about an internal blade cooling system that maintains 25 C?



Ok I have the solution. On a saw with the typical pointer indicating
tension you mount a mercury switch. 3 wire mercury switch. When the
pointer moves one direction as the blade warms up the switch tilts and a
tension motor begins to increase tension until the mercury switch is
again in a neutral position. As the blade cools and the pointer moves
in the opposite direction the switch indicates to loosen tension.
You zero the mercury switch when you initially adjust the blade tension.

What could be more simple? :~)

Leon wrote:


Ok I have the solution. On a saw with the typical pointer indicating
tension you mount a mercury switch. 3 wire mercury switch. When the
pointer moves one direction as the blade warms up the switch tilts
and a tension motor begins to increase tension until the mercury
switch is again in a neutral position. As the blade cools and the
pointer moves in the opposite direction the switch indicates to
loosen tension. You zero the mercury switch when you initially adjust the
blade
tension.
What could be more simple? :~)

More simple? Easy... How about - a scantily clad brunette leaned over and
poised for adjustments as needed. Requires no engineering effort, pleasant
to work with, guaranteed to keep you focused, and... can clean up
afterwards.

***Note*** Some have tried to substitute blondes for brunettes with dismal
results. The retraining time between cuts was prohibitive.

--

-Mike-

On 10/29/2012 9:20 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Ok I have the solution. On a saw with the typical pointer indicating
tension you mount a mercury switch. 3 wire mercury switch. When the
pointer moves one direction as the blade warms up the switch tilts
and a tension motor begins to increase tension until the mercury
switch is again in a neutral position. As the blade cools and the
pointer moves in the opposite direction the switch indicates to
loosen tension. You zero the mercury switch when you initially adjust the
blade
tension.
What could be more simple? :~)

More simple? Easy... How about - a scantily clad brunette leaned over and
poised for adjustments as needed. Requires no engineering effort, pleasant
to work with, guaranteed to keep you focused, and... can clean up
afterwards.

***Note*** Some have tried to substitute blondes for brunettes with dismal
results. The retraining time between cuts was prohibitive.



Well that was cute in a Jr.High sort of way but does not solve the
problem of having to stop the saw, open it up, and check the tension
every couple of minutes.

Leon wrote:
On 10/29/2012 9:20 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Ok I have the solution. On a saw with the typical pointer
indicating tension you mount a mercury switch. 3 wire mercury
switch. When the pointer moves one direction as the blade warms up
the switch tilts and a tension motor begins to increase tension until
the mercury
switch is again in a neutral position. As the blade cools and the
pointer moves in the opposite direction the switch indicates to
loosen tension. You zero the mercury switch when you initially
adjust the blade
tension.
What could be more simple? :~)

More simple? Easy... How about - a scantily clad brunette leaned
over and poised for adjustments as needed. Requires no engineering
effort, pleasant to work with, guaranteed to keep you focused,
and... can clean up afterwards.

***Note*** Some have tried to substitute blondes for brunettes with
dismal results. The retraining time between cuts was prohibitive.



Well that was cute in a Jr.High sort of way but does not solve the
problem of having to stop the saw, open it up, and check the tension
every couple of minutes.

Your sense of humor on strike today?

--

-Mike-

On 10/29/2012 4:44 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 10/29/2012 9:20 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Ok I have the solution. On a saw with the typical pointer
indicating tension you mount a mercury switch. 3 wire mercury
switch. When the pointer moves one direction as the blade warms up
the switch tilts and a tension motor begins to increase tension until
the mercury
switch is again in a neutral position. As the blade cools and the
pointer moves in the opposite direction the switch indicates to
loosen tension. You zero the mercury switch when you initially
adjust the blade
tension.
What could be more simple? :~)

More simple? Easy... How about - a scantily clad brunette leaned
over and poised for adjustments as needed. Requires no engineering
effort, pleasant to work with, guaranteed to keep you focused,
and... can clean up afterwards.

***Note*** Some have tried to substitute blondes for brunettes with
dismal results. The retraining time between cuts was prohibitive.



Well that was cute in a Jr.High sort of way but does not solve the
problem of having to stop the saw, open it up, and check the tension
every couple of minutes.

Your sense of humor on strike today?


No, is yours? I said it was cute in a Jr. High sort of way, did you
take offense to that?

Leon wrote:
On 10/29/2012 4:44 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 10/29/2012 9:20 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Ok I have the solution. On a saw with the typical pointer
indicating tension you mount a mercury switch. 3 wire mercury
switch. When the pointer moves one direction as the blade warms
up the switch tilts and a tension motor begins to increase
tension until the mercury
switch is again in a neutral position. As the blade cools and the
pointer moves in the opposite direction the switch indicates to
loosen tension. You zero the mercury switch when you initially
adjust the blade
tension.
What could be more simple? :~)

More simple? Easy... How about - a scantily clad brunette leaned
over and poised for adjustments as needed. Requires no engineering
effort, pleasant to work with, guaranteed to keep you focused,
and... can clean up afterwards.

***Note*** Some have tried to substitute blondes for brunettes
with dismal results. The retraining time between cuts was
prohibitive.


Well that was cute in a Jr.High sort of way but does not solve the
problem of having to stop the saw, open it up, and check the tension
every couple of minutes.

Your sense of humor on strike today?


No, is yours? I said it was cute in a Jr. High sort of way, did you
take offense to that?

No - not at all. Just misunderstood ya I guess.

--

-Mike-

On 10/29/2012 6:59 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
Swingman wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:
Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI

Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades.
Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.

(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)



Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator
that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the
blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,
and then less when not cutting.

While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact
science temperature changes every thing.

On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while
cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the wheel
cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to retention
considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a few minutes
of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.

Something to think about.

Yep, making it more important to be properly tensioned to start with.

Figuring that industries relying on the bandsaw would be addressing that as
a concern, this is an interesting read on the subject, which also raises
the question, how do you put a "back-crown" on a bandsaw blade?

https://www.fornis.net/system/files/machining_LUS.pdf

Best I can translate the jargon, their concern was that the toothed
edge of the blade expanded from friction heat, effectively reducing
the tension on the front blade edge. To maintain uniform blade tension
at operating temperature, I think they are suggesting that the rear
edge should be longer than the front.

I may have some OCD tendencies, but such concerns too over the top to
be helpful in my shop.

No **** ...

You'd have to have a big honking blade to just "increase the tension to
the tooth edge" of the blade, or some such words.

That said, I do agree that the most heat would be generated at the tooth
edge, and the wider the blade, the more heat dissipation toward the back
would occur, with less loss of blade tension.

IOW, use the widest blade possible, consistent with the task, and it
shouldn't be a big factor on whether the cows made it home.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Monday, October 29, 2012 5:27:42 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
On 10/29/2012 6:59 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:

Swingman wrote:



Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI



Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades.

Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.



(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)







Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator

that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the

blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,

and then less when not cutting.



While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact

science temperature changes every thing.



On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while

cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the wheel

cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to retention

considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a few minutes

of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.



Something to think about.



Yep, making it more important to be properly tensioned to start with.



Figuring that industries relying on the bandsaw would be addressing that as

a concern, this is an interesting read on the subject, which also raises

the question, how do you put a "back-crown" on a bandsaw blade?



https://www.fornis.net/system/files/machining_LUS.pdf



Best I can translate the jargon, their concern was that the toothed

edge of the blade expanded from friction heat, effectively reducing

the tension on the front blade edge. To maintain uniform blade tension

at operating temperature, I think they are suggesting that the rear

edge should be longer than the front.



I may have some OCD tendencies, but such concerns too over the top to

be helpful in my shop.



No **** ...



You'd have to have a big honking blade to just "increase the tension to

the tooth edge" of the blade, or some such words.



That said, I do agree that the most heat would be generated at the tooth

edge, and the wider the blade, the more heat dissipation toward the back

would occur, with less loss of blade tension.



IOW, use the widest blade possible, consistent with the task, and it

shouldn't be a big factor on whether the cows made it home.



--

www.eWoodShop.com

Last update: 4/15/2010

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

If the blade tension spring is properly designed, it should compensate for the blade length changing as the blade heats and cools.
Kerry

On 10/30/2012 12:05 PM, wrote:
On Monday, October 29, 2012 5:27:42 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
On 10/29/2012 6:59 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:

Swingman wrote:



Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI



Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades.

Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.



(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)







Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator

that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the

blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,

and then less when not cutting.



While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact

science temperature changes every thing.



On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while

cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the wheel

cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to retention

considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a few minutes

of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.



Something to think about.



Yep, making it more important to be properly tensioned to start with.



Figuring that industries relying on the bandsaw would be addressing that as

a concern, this is an interesting read on the subject, which also raises

the question, how do you put a "back-crown" on a bandsaw blade?



https://www.fornis.net/system/files/machining_LUS.pdf



Best I can translate the jargon, their concern was that the toothed

edge of the blade expanded from friction heat, effectively reducing

the tension on the front blade edge. To maintain uniform blade tension

at operating temperature, I think they are suggesting that the rear

edge should be longer than the front.



I may have some OCD tendencies, but such concerns too over the top to

be helpful in my shop.



No **** ...



You'd have to have a big honking blade to just "increase the tension to

the tooth edge" of the blade, or some such words.



That said, I do agree that the most heat would be generated at the tooth

edge, and the wider the blade, the more heat dissipation toward the back

would occur, with less loss of blade tension.



IOW, use the widest blade possible, consistent with the task, and it

shouldn't be a big factor on whether the cows made it home.



--

www.eWoodShop.com

Last update: 4/15/2010

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

If the blade tension spring is properly designed, it should compensate for the blade length changing as the blade heats and cools.
Kerry


Can you name a brand that has a properly designed tension spring? Not
the case on my Laguna LT16HD.

And since tension is increased with the compression of the tension
spring, how would a properly designed spring maintain the proper tension
as it decompresses when the blade stretches?

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 10/30/2012 12:05 PM, wrote:
On Monday, October 29, 2012 5:27:42 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
On 10/29/2012 6:59 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:

Swingman wrote:



Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI



Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my
blades.

Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.



(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone
technique.)







Good information and findings but how about a tension warning
indicator

that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When
the

blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when
cutting,

and then less when not cutting.



While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact

science temperature changes every thing.



On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while

cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the
wheel

cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to
retention

considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a few
minutes

of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.



Something to think about.



Yep, making it more important to be properly tensioned to start with.



Figuring that industries relying on the bandsaw would be addressing
that as

a concern, this is an interesting read on the subject, which also
raises

the question, how do you put a "back-crown" on a bandsaw blade?



https://www.fornis.net/system/files/machining_LUS.pdf



Best I can translate the jargon, their concern was that the toothed

edge of the blade expanded from friction heat, effectively reducing

the tension on the front blade edge. To maintain uniform blade tension

at operating temperature, I think they are suggesting that the rear

edge should be longer than the front.



I may have some OCD tendencies, but such concerns too over the top to

be helpful in my shop.



No **** ...



You'd have to have a big honking blade to just "increase the tension to

the tooth edge" of the blade, or some such words.



That said, I do agree that the most heat would be generated at the tooth

edge, and the wider the blade, the more heat dissipation toward the back

would occur, with less loss of blade tension.



IOW, use the widest blade possible, consistent with the task, and it

shouldn't be a big factor on whether the cows made it home.



--

www.eWoodShop.com

Last update: 4/15/2010

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

If the blade tension spring is properly designed, it should compensate
for the blade length changing as the blade heats and cools.
Kerry


Can you name a brand that has a properly designed tension spring? Not the
case on my Laguna LT16HD.

And since tension is increased with the compression of the tension spring,
how would a properly designed spring maintain the proper tension as it
decompresses when the blade stretches?



Leon,
I'm not familiar with enough bandsaws to know if any have a tension spring
that does this well.
A long enough tension spring would change its length by a small enough %
that the force it exerts would be close to constant.
Kerry

On Sun, 28 Oct 2012 05:33:31 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI

Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades. Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.

(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)

FWIW, you will hear a lot of different thoughts on blade tension and
the proper setting. One thing to bear in mind is that the right blade
can affect how much tension you need. Too much sawdust caught in the
gullets will force the blade to shift off line and cause rough cuts.
Lower feed rates can help, but a 3 TPI blade has been recommended as a
good blade and I have found it works well for me. Given that, you can
use a lower tension and get good results, even in a wide resaw.

The benefit to your saw is less stress on the frame and less stress on
the wheels.

Fine Woodworking has some info presented by Michael Fortune that
suggests all this and also has tips to adjust blade tracking to
correct for drift. If you think about it, having the blade slightly
forward or slightly back of the top of the crown on the wheel will
cause the blade to twist. That causes drift.

Using the adjust blade tracking technique means you don't need to
adjust the fence to compensate for drift.

On Sun, 28 Oct 2012 05:33:31 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI

Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades. Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.

(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)

Are you guys bottom posting... after all the hell you gave us, now you
are guilty of this....hmmmmm.

A spring can be built to properly maintain tension. just like motorcycle
springs, where you have springs inside of springs (coils with inner
coils). The higher end springs for racing maintain almost constant
tension so the bike tracks the same no matter what.


If the blade tension spring is properly designed, it should compensate
for the blade length changing as the blade heats and cools.
Kerry


Can you name a brand that has a properly designed tension spring? Not
the case on my Laguna LT16HD.

And since tension is increased with the compression of the tension
spring, how would a properly designed spring maintain the proper tension
as it decompresses when the blade stretches?

On 10/31/2012 8:45 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Are you guys bottom posting... after all the hell you gave us, now you
are guilty of this....hmmmmm.

A spring can be built to properly maintain tension. just like motorcycle
springs, where you have springs inside of springs (coils with inner
coils). The higher end springs for racing maintain almost constant
tension so the bike tracks the same no matter what.


Maintaining constant tension is not the problem, as you said this has
been acomplished in the transportation industry.

The trick is to have a spring maintain constant tension with limitless
possible initial settings.









If the blade tension spring is properly designed, it should compensate
for the blade length changing as the blade heats and cools.
Kerry


Can you name a brand that has a properly designed tension spring? Not
the case on my Laguna LT16HD.

And since tension is increased with the compression of the tension
spring, how would a properly designed spring maintain the proper tension
as it decompresses when the blade stretches?