On 10/29/2012 6:59 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
Swingman wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 10/28/2012 7:33 AM, wrote:
Make a DIY bandsaw tension gauge:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iAkRLvLAvI

Apparently, I have been applying way too little tension on my blades.
Now I have a much better idea of where I should be w/ tension.

(I was never a big fan of the pluck and listen for a tone technique.)



Good information and findings but how about a tension warning indicator
that lets you know when to retention during sawing operation. When the
blade warms up from simply spinning it will stretch, more when cutting,
and then less when not cutting.

While we all would like to be able to narrow this down to an exact
science temperature changes every thing.

On my saw the tension gauge is on the exterior in plain site while
cutting. Most saws require you to turn off the saw and open up the wheel
cover to recheck tension. I find it quite common to have to retention
considerably after only a few minutes of sawing and after a few minutes
of cooling down the blade is over tensioned.

Something to think about.

Yep, making it more important to be properly tensioned to start with.

Figuring that industries relying on the bandsaw would be addressing that as
a concern, this is an interesting read on the subject, which also raises
the question, how do you put a "back-crown" on a bandsaw blade?

https://www.fornis.net/system/files/machining_LUS.pdf

Best I can translate the jargon, their concern was that the toothed
edge of the blade expanded from friction heat, effectively reducing
the tension on the front blade edge. To maintain uniform blade tension
at operating temperature, I think they are suggesting that the rear
edge should be longer than the front.

I may have some OCD tendencies, but such concerns too over the top to
be helpful in my shop.

No **** ...

You'd have to have a big honking blade to just "increase the tension to
the tooth edge" of the blade, or some such words.

That said, I do agree that the most heat would be generated at the tooth
edge, and the wider the blade, the more heat dissipation toward the back
would occur, with less loss of blade tension.

IOW, use the widest blade possible, consistent with the task, and it
shouldn't be a big factor on whether the cows made it home.

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