OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.

On 7/7/2012 10:56 AM, 4fingers wrote:
OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.

Even if you resaw or can manage to get a sliver off an edge w/ the
bansaw, it'll still need surfacing...

The answer is "both"...

Or, if you're sure you know what thickness you want, take it to a shop
who'll plane it for you.

--

A band saw will not surface the wood.

Also your wood is too big for a 14" bandsaw to resaw. I have a 14" w/
riser block. I wish I had a 17 or 18 bandsaw for the amount of work I do
with a bandsaw now. More HP and a bigger throat with a better resaw
capability.

The fact that you have wide boards requires hand planing to keep them
wide. If you split them up, an 8" planer will still be required, since
6" will be too narrow. Then you will be able to use one of the 13.5 inch
planers.

If you have a small shop, I would look at one of the combo units that
will do jointing and planing. Get a good unit, not a half ass unit. I
saw the reviews on the Jet, and it was ugly... The europeans make nice
combo machines. One dollar, one footprint and two uses...
With these machines you can get a 12 or 14" jointer/planer... And no
they won't require you to pour a reinforced concrete pad like the old
12" jointers... They weighed a ton or more.



On 7/7/2012 11:56 AM, 4fingers wrote:
OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.

On 7/7/2012 10:56 AM, 4fingers wrote:
OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.



You are going to be way under powered to do any resawing of that
quantity and thickness.

More wasteful but certainly better results and quicker using a planer of
adequate size.

I have a 16" 4.5 hp Laguna BS and would be reluctant to take that job on
with a BS

BTW if you decide that you are going to hand plane, get yourself a scrub
plane, and a No 6. The 6 will flatten the face after the scrub levels
it. Without these two you will spend a lot of time.. The scrub is the
plane of choice for __quick__ truing. The foreplane will remove the
scallops and leave a real nice board.

On 7/7/2012 11:56 AM, 4fingers wrote:
OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.

On Jul 7, 10:56*am, 4fingers wrote:
OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.

Well.......... This is one of those chicken and egg questions; and it
appears as though you are making a purchase decision based on your
acquisition of quite a bit of Walnut.

You might think downstream from the walnut about which tool would
benefit your style of woodworking in the future ... AND... do you have
an acquaintance of buddy who has the other tool? You might be able
to pay him for a saw blade or share sharpening and still buy the
preferred tool (some of my buddies will do anything for a 12-pack).
Personally, I would go with the planer because even with decent band-
saw re-sawing you are still going to have to surface the wood
eventually. From you comment, hand surfacing that much lumber seems
like a daunting task and I agree.

A couple of thoughts:

1) Re-sawing with a band saw, especially with wider stock, isn't all
that easy for a beginner. You will get the knack down but you could
screw up some nice walnut learning.

2) With the 14" to 16" widths you mention, keep in mind you are
looking at buying a 15" or larger planer. When you make the move from
12" or 13" planers up to the heavier duty 15" machines the price goes
up quite a bit. But there are some good affordable machines in the
$1,000 or so range. If you decide to go with the planer you might
take a look at one of these:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/15-3...Series-/G0453P

http://www.grizzly.com/products/15-Planer/G0453

They are both essentially the same machine, just dressed up a little
different. The "P" version has a few more features for the same
current sale price. You can spend a lot more for the same capability,
with yellow paint, but the Grizzly planers are good machines. I have
had the Polar Bear version for about 1-1/2 years, it has planed quite
a bit of hardwood and no complaints whatsoever. Our son-in-law has
had the other version for about seven years and it has been a good
machine too.


RonB

What Ron said, or if you are ok with losing 2" check out the couple of
machines that are combos..
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-P...-G0634-/G0634Z

On 7/7/2012 12:39 PM, RonB wrote:
On Jul 7, 10:56 am, 4fingers wrote:
OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.

Well.......... This is one of those chicken and egg questions; and it
appears as though you are making a purchase decision based on your
acquisition of quite a bit of Walnut.

You might think downstream from the walnut about which tool would
benefit your style of woodworking in the future ... AND... do you have
an acquaintance of buddy who has the other tool? You might be able
to pay him for a saw blade or share sharpening and still buy the
preferred tool (some of my buddies will do anything for a 12-pack).
Personally, I would go with the planer because even with decent band-
saw re-sawing you are still going to have to surface the wood
eventually. From you comment, hand surfacing that much lumber seems
like a daunting task and I agree.

A couple of thoughts:

1) Re-sawing with a band saw, especially with wider stock, isn't all
that easy for a beginner. You will get the knack down but you could
screw up some nice walnut learning.

2) With the 14" to 16" widths you mention, keep in mind you are
looking at buying a 15" or larger planer. When you make the move from
12" or 13" planers up to the heavier duty 15" machines the price goes
up quite a bit. But there are some good affordable machines in the
$1,000 or so range. If you decide to go with the planer you might
take a look at one of these:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/15-3...Series-/G0453P

http://www.grizzly.com/products/15-Planer/G0453

They are both essentially the same machine, just dressed up a little
different. The "P" version has a few more features for the same
current sale price. You can spend a lot more for the same capability,
with yellow paint, but the Grizzly planers are good machines. I have
had the Polar Bear version for about 1-1/2 years, it has planed quite
a bit of hardwood and no complaints whatsoever. Our son-in-law has
had the other version for about seven years and it has been a good
machine too.


RonB

On Jul 7, 11:55*am, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
What Ron said, or if you are ok with losing 2" check out the couple of
machines that are combos..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-P...Spiral-Cutterh...



Yeah - I saw one of those the last time we were at the Springfield
Griz store and it is a good looking machine. More money but a lot
more machine.

Also, regarding the machines I mentioned - If you can spend about $250
- $300 more, you can get the same machines with the spiral
cutterheads. Much easier to change blades, and the blade inserts are
rotatable providing more life per inch of edge. I didn't do that but
now wish I had. I might do a retrofit later.

A lot of times if you have wood that is slightly wider than the planer
bed you have a couple of considerations:

- Is that 1" or so good, usable wood? I buy quite a bit of rough sawn
stock but the outer 1/2' to 1" is rough and even split.

- If the wider stock isn't the norm for you, sometimes you can rip and
re-glue. Granted you lose a little wood in the process but how often
to you really use 15" or wider stock in your personal shop.

Good Luck - buying tools is part of the fun!

RonB

RonB

I vote get a decent 16" planer. Don't skimp with that quality of
lumber.

Unless you are in production, the size bandsaw needed to properly
resaw that lumber will not be conveniently practical for other general
uses.

Sonny

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:56:10 +0000, 4fingers wrote:

I think a bandsaw would be
more practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope)
resawing / surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting
a 14" and a riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How
practical would surfacing on a bandsaw be?

I got the 14" Rikon (http://www.rikontools.com/productpage_10-325.htm)
because it had 13" resaw capability with no riser block. I heard quite a
few bad stories about riser blocks when I was working at Woodcraft.
OTOH, a 17" will have more power.

But you'll still need a planer - bandsaws don't leave a planed surface.

Resaw about 3/32" or 1/8" over the size you need and joint and plane the
rest. Use a woodslicer blade from Highland Hardware for the resawing.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 7/7/2012 11:37 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/7/2012 10:56 AM, 4fingers wrote:
OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.



You are going to be way under powered to do any resawing of that quantity and
thickness.

More wasteful but certainly better results and quicker using a planer of
adequate size.

I have a 16" 4.5 hp Laguna BS and would be reluctant to take that job on with a BS

Agree 100%. The planer is the right tool for this job. However, in taking
that much meat off of that much lumber, you're gonna wish you'd bought a dust
collector too (assuming you don't already have one). :-)

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

BTW if you do as Ron says, you can use a tablesaw, but ripping a rough
board is better (SAFER) done on a bandsaw...

With those size boards you really need quite a few pieces of hardware
to do them justice.

Or you can send them over to Ron and I and we can help out... I'll
return the finished projects when I no longer wish to have them. :-)

On 7/7/2012 1:17 PM, RonB wrote:
On Jul 7, 11:55 am, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
What Ron said, or if you are ok with losing 2" check out the couple of
machines that are combos..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-P...Spiral-Cutterh...



Yeah - I saw one of those the last time we were at the Springfield
Griz store and it is a good looking machine. More money but a lot
more machine.

Also, regarding the machines I mentioned - If you can spend about $250
- $300 more, you can get the same machines with the spiral
cutterheads. Much easier to change blades, and the blade inserts are
rotatable providing more life per inch of edge. I didn't do that but
now wish I had. I might do a retrofit later.

A lot of times if you have wood that is slightly wider than the planer
bed you have a couple of considerations:

- Is that 1" or so good, usable wood? I buy quite a bit of rough sawn
stock but the outer 1/2' to 1" is rough and even split.

- If the wider stock isn't the norm for you, sometimes you can rip and
re-glue. Granted you lose a little wood in the process but how often
to you really use 15" or wider stock in your personal shop.

Good Luck - buying tools is part of the fun!

RonB

RonB

On Jul 7, 2:23*pm, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
BTW if you do as Ron says, you can use a tablesaw, but ripping a rough
board is better (SAFER) done on a bandsaw...

With those size boards you really need quite a few pieces *of hardware
to do them justice.

Or you can send them over to Ron and I and we can help out... I'll
return the finished projects when I no longer wish to have them. :-)

On 7/7/2012 1:17 PM, RonB wrote:







On Jul 7, 11:55 am, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
What Ron said, or if you are ok with losing 2" check out the couple of
machines that are combos..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-P...Spiral-Cutterh...

Yeah - I saw one of those the last time we were at the Springfield
Griz store and it is a good looking machine. *More money but a lot
more machine.

Also, regarding the machines I mentioned - If you can spend about $250
- $300 more, you can get the same machines with the spiral
cutterheads. *Much easier to change blades, and the blade inserts are
rotatable providing more life per inch of edge. *I didn't do that but
now wish I had. *I might do a retrofit later.

A lot of times if you have wood that is slightly wider than the planer
bed you have a couple of considerations:

- Is that 1" or so good, usable wood? *I buy quite a bit of rough sawn
stock but the outer 1/2' to 1" is rough and even split.

- If the wider stock isn't the norm for you, sometimes you can rip and
re-glue. *Granted you lose a little wood in the process but how often
to you really use 15" or wider stock in your personal shop.

Good Luck - buying tools is part of the fun!

RonB

RonB

It just occurred to me that my aging mind shifted to oranges while
others were still talking about apples ;o)

The rough cut stock I was talking about above is what I can get from a
couple of local sources. It is usually in the 2-1/2" to 3" thickness
range because I build some fairly stocky rocking horses from time to
time. With lumber this thick it is pretty easy to skin a "straight"
edge on the table saw and flip it to straighten the other side - then
to the jointer. This is easier because the mill guys is buy from
usually provide a pretty straight band-sawed edge; but that edge might
be cracked and a little shaggy from the drying process. Trying to
resaw wide stock on the table saw is "possible" but might earn you a
concussion - if not worse.

Actually I love to get lumber in the 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" thickness
range. From there it is pretty easy to choose the exact thickness I
want with the planer or jointer/planer combination.

RonB

"4fingers" wrote in message
5.247...

OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.
================================================== ================================
A band saw will leave a finish that needs to be planed.

On 7/7/2012 2:02 PM, Sonny wrote:
I vote get a decent 16" planer. Don't skimp with that quality of
lumber.

Unless you are in production, the size bandsaw needed to properly
resaw that lumber will not be conveniently practical for other general
uses.

I vote you get the band saw, far more useful and needed tool than a
planer. If you have a good source for rough cut lumber, then, you will
need a planer AND a jointer in addition to the band saw, but a band saw
is a must have tool imnsho. If he plans on resawing 16" lumber, he will
need one hell of a band saw, and, will need one hell of a planer and
jointer to surface it when finished. Actually, I would cut down the 16"
stuff anyway unless I had a specific reason for that width.

Planers of course are needed with rough cut lumber, but most lumber
yards carry dimensional lumber that is already surfaced. Once the
lumber is surfaced, a planer is just going to change the thickness of
the lumber, which is cool if that is your objective. Drawers for
example generally have 1/2" or 5/8" sides. I've found Popular in 1/2"
size but other woods not so much. Lots of uses for 5/4 stuff and that
is also hard to find, and expensive when you do.

Personally, I would buy the best (most expensive) band saw I could
afford, assuming I could afford a good one. I would take the lumber to
someone that has a planer that can handle 16" stuff and pay him to plane
it. After my shop was fully stocked with quality stationary equipment,
and I had lots of experience building stuff, I would think about getting
a good jointer and planer (both needed together).

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 7/7/2012 1:17 PM, RonB wrote:
On Jul 7, 11:55 am, tiredofspamnospam.nospam.com wrote:
What Ron said, or if you are ok with losing 2" check out the couple of
machines that are combos..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-P...Spiral-Cutterh...

Yeah - I saw one of those the last time we were at the Springfield
Griz store and it is a good looking machine. More money but a lot
more machine.

Also, regarding the machines I mentioned - If you can spend about $250
- $300 more, you can get the same machines with the spiral
cutterheads. Much easier to change blades, and the blade inserts are
rotatable providing more life per inch of edge. I didn't do that but
now wish I had. I might do a retrofit later.

I have the spiral cutter head machine, it is the way to go. I'd like to
have one on my jointer now that I see how sweet they are. You can
rotate the carbide blades so you get 4 times the life of regular blades,
plus, there is no adjustment. Each blade fits, period. You don't get
them sharpened, you by a new set for around 60 bucks or so. This is
way cheaper then sending blades out to get sharpened 4 times. Also, you
get like 10 extra blades so if one gets nicked, you can replace it free.
I guess it would need nicked 4 times as with just one nick, you could
just rotate it?

There are many other advantages to a segmented spiral cutter head.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

"CW" wrote in
m:

================================================== =====================
=========== A band saw will leave a finish that needs to be planed.


Thanks for all the opinions. I did resaw on the table saw. NOT NOT FUN. All
the time I thought "there are so many ways this could go terribly wrong."
Nothing happened but I WON"T do that again. JUST PLAIN SCARY. Since the bed
has a few thinner (3/4") pieces I decided to make a router sled to get them
down to size. I got a jointer early on - in retrospect I would've been
better off with a band saw. My good ol' gal said I could get both but a
vehicle will have to live outside all year and I hate scraping in the
morning. Maybe it's time to put a 220 outlet in the garage. Hmmm - that
opens up a whole new arena of tool possibilities

On 7/8/2012 6:49 PM, 4fingers wrote:
wrote in
m:

================================================== =====================
=========== A band saw will leave a finish that needs to be planed.


Thanks for all the opinions. I did resaw on the table saw. NOT NOT FUN. All
the time I thought "there are so many ways this could go terribly wrong."
Nothing happened but I WON"T do that again. JUST PLAIN SCARY. Since the bed
has a few thinner (3/4") pieces I decided to make a router sled to get them
down to size. I got a jointer early on - in retrospect I would've been
better off with a band saw. My good ol' gal said I could get both but a
vehicle will have to live outside all year and I hate scraping in the
morning. Maybe it's time to put a 220 outlet in the garage. Hmmm - that
opens up a whole new arena of tool possibilities

Cars don't belong in garages, garages are for tools. Get a remote
starter if you don't like scraping.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 7/8/2012 9:09 PM, Jack wrote:

Cars don't belong in garages, garages are for tools. Get a remote
starter if you don't like scraping.

Garages were originally the stalls for the horse and the carriage. Both
a good paint job, and maybe some hail coverage, is all the coverage a
_car_ needs, and they're cheaper. g

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

4fingers wrote in
5.250:


Thanks for all the opinions. I did resaw on the table saw. NOT NOT
FUN. All the time I thought "there are so many ways this could go
terribly wrong." Nothing happened but I WON"T do that again. JUST
PLAIN SCARY. Since the bed has a few thinner (3/4") pieces I decided
to make a router sled to get them down to size. I got a jointer
early on - in retrospect I would've been better off with a band saw.
My good ol' gal said I could get both but a vehicle will have to live
outside all year and I hate scraping in the morning. Maybe it's time
to put a 220 outlet in the garage. Hmmm - that opens up a whole new
arena of tool possibilities

I was looking at block heaters a few weeks ago. The ones I was looking
at for my car seemed easy enough to install and not very expensive. If
you're worried about scraping, spend a coupla hundred and put one of
those in. Want to save electricity? Put it on a timer on only turn it
on about 2-3 hours before you leave.

Oh, and it's always a good idea to run a good anti-freeze washer fluid.
That'll help with the scraping if your engine is warm enough to keep your
windshield from freezing up again.

There, now you can use your garage for what it's intended. You can send
a check for the extra space. *wink*

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
eb.com...

4fingers wrote in
5.250:


Thanks for all the opinions. I did resaw on the table saw. NOT NOT
FUN. All the time I thought "there are so many ways this could go
terribly wrong." Nothing happened but I WON"T do that again. JUST
PLAIN SCARY. Since the bed has a few thinner (3/4") pieces I decided
to make a router sled to get them down to size. I got a jointer
early on - in retrospect I would've been better off with a band saw.
My good ol' gal said I could get both but a vehicle will have to live
outside all year and I hate scraping in the morning. Maybe it's time
to put a 220 outlet in the garage. Hmmm - that opens up a whole new
arena of tool possibilities

I was looking at block heaters a few weeks ago. The ones I was looking
at for my car seemed easy enough to install and not very expensive. If
you're worried about scraping, spend a coupla hundred and put one of
those in. Want to save electricity? Put it on a timer on only turn it
on about 2-3 hours before you leave.
================================================== ========================
Putting a tarp over the car at night is cheaper and works.

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 04:48:00 -0700, "CW" wrote:



"Puckdropper" wrote in message
web.com...

4fingers wrote in
85.250:


Thanks for all the opinions. I did resaw on the table saw. NOT NOT
FUN. All the time I thought "there are so many ways this could go
terribly wrong." Nothing happened but I WON"T do that again. JUST
PLAIN SCARY. Since the bed has a few thinner (3/4") pieces I decided
to make a router sled to get them down to size. I got a jointer
early on - in retrospect I would've been better off with a band saw.
My good ol' gal said I could get both but a vehicle will have to live
outside all year and I hate scraping in the morning. Maybe it's time
to put a 220 outlet in the garage. Hmmm - that opens up a whole new
arena of tool possibilities

I was looking at block heaters a few weeks ago. The ones I was looking
at for my car seemed easy enough to install and not very expensive. If
you're worried about scraping, spend a coupla hundred and put one of
those in. Want to save electricity? Put it on a timer on only turn it
on about 2-3 hours before you leave.
================================================= =========================
Putting a tarp over the car at night is cheaper and works.

Leaving the car to sleep under the stars is better for it.

On 7/11/2012 10:03 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 04:48:00 -0700, wrote:

I was looking at block heaters a few weeks ago. The ones I was looking
at for my car seemed easy enough to install and not very expensive. If
you're worried about scraping, spend a coupla hundred and put one of
those in. Want to save electricity? Put it on a timer on only turn it
on about 2-3 hours before you leave.
================================================== ========================
Putting a tarp over the car at night is cheaper and works.

Leaving the car to sleep under the stars is better for it.

I agree. In the north, a heated garage is the worse thing for a car,
particularly if you get snow and salt. Your car gets salt water sprayed
all under it, it freezes, and no rust. You pull it into a heated garage
every night, the frozen sal****er melts, you get a rust bucket.

A tarp always sucks as it traps in moisture. Best is to leave the car
out all the time so it can breathe . If you live in North Dakota or
other unlivable places, get a block heater so it will/might start at 300
below.

A (heated) garage is for tools.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 7/7/2012 11:56 AM, 4fingers wrote:
OK -- I know they're two different tools with different main purpose.
However -- I have ~300 bd.ft. of black walnut. Most of it is rough and some
is S2S, all of it is a full 1 1/8" thick or more. Although I like hand
tools I can't see planing that much lumber just to surface it much less to
get it to a full 1" or 3/4" thickness. I think a bandsaw would be more
practial since I could use it for other things including (I hope) resawing
/ surfacing the lumber to thickness. I'm thinking about getting a 14" and a
riser block or a 17". Either would have to be 120 volts. How practical
would surfacing on a bandsaw be? Or would I be better off just getting a
planer? BTW most of the boards are 8 - 14" wide. I also have some oak
that's 16" wide that will need surfacing also. Thanks.


What you really need is a jointer and a planer, at least if you are looking
to have flat uncupped unwound untwisted wood as the final result of your
efforts. Using just a planer will give you wood of an even thickness but
won't manage to remove the other problems rough wood is heir to. A bandsaw
is a wonderful too in the shop and one that is large enough to resaw thick
wood is best but it won't give you anything but thinner rough wood.

To be honest, if I only had 300bf of lumber to process I'd spend my money
having somebody with a well-equipped shop do the work for me and save up
money for some heavy iron and 240V wiring if the need will come up frequently.

On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 09:18:19 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 7/11/2012 10:03 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 04:48:00 -0700, wrote:

I was looking at block heaters a few weeks ago. The ones I was looking
at for my car seemed easy enough to install and not very expensive. If
you're worried about scraping, spend a coupla hundred and put one of
those in. Want to save electricity? Put it on a timer on only turn it
on about 2-3 hours before you leave.
================================================== ========================
Putting a tarp over the car at night is cheaper and works.

Leaving the car to sleep under the stars is better for it.

I agree. In the north, a heated garage is the worse thing for a car,
particularly if you get snow and salt. Your car gets salt water sprayed
all under it, it freezes, and no rust. You pull it into a heated garage
every night, the frozen sal****er melts, you get a rust bucket.

A tarp always sucks as it traps in moisture. Best is to leave the car
out all the time so it can breathe . If you live in North Dakota or
other unlivable places, get a block heater so it will/might start at 300
below.

Tarps scratch the paint, too.

A (heated) garage is for tools.

A carport isn't bad, though. A garage is a good idea if you're married. ...or
perhaps if not a garage, a least a dog house. ;-)

On 7/13/2012 9:45 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 09:18:19 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 7/11/2012 10:03 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 04:48:00 -0700, wrote:

I was looking at block heaters a few weeks ago. The ones I was looking
at for my car seemed easy enough to install and not very expensive. If
you're worried about scraping, spend a coupla hundred and put one of
those in. Want to save electricity? Put it on a timer on only turn it
on about 2-3 hours before you leave.
================================================== ========================
Putting a tarp over the car at night is cheaper and works.

Leaving the car to sleep under the stars is better for it.

I agree. In the north, a heated garage is the worse thing for a car,
particularly if you get snow and salt. Your car gets salt water sprayed
all under it, it freezes, and no rust. You pull it into a heated garage
every night, the frozen sal****er melts, you get a rust bucket.

A tarp always sucks as it traps in moisture. Best is to leave the car
out all the time so it can breathe . If you live in North Dakota or
other unlivable places, get a block heater so it will/might start at 300
below.

Tarps scratch the paint, too.

A (heated) garage is for tools.

A carport isn't bad, though. A garage is a good idea if you're married. ...or
perhaps if not a garage, a least a dog house. ;-)



A garage is a good place for the car when it is pouring down raining
outside and you need to enter or exit the vehicle.

On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 09:53:45 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/13/2012 9:45 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 09:18:19 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 7/11/2012 10:03 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 04:48:00 -0700, wrote:

I was looking at block heaters a few weeks ago. The ones I was looking
at for my car seemed easy enough to install and not very expensive. If
you're worried about scraping, spend a coupla hundred and put one of
those in. Want to save electricity? Put it on a timer on only turn it
on about 2-3 hours before you leave.
================================================== ========================
Putting a tarp over the car at night is cheaper and works.

Leaving the car to sleep under the stars is better for it.

I agree. In the north, a heated garage is the worse thing for a car,
particularly if you get snow and salt. Your car gets salt water sprayed
all under it, it freezes, and no rust. You pull it into a heated garage
every night, the frozen sal****er melts, you get a rust bucket.

A tarp always sucks as it traps in moisture. Best is to leave the car
out all the time so it can breathe . If you live in North Dakota or
other unlivable places, get a block heater so it will/might start at 300
below.

Tarps scratch the paint, too.

A (heated) garage is for tools.

A carport isn't bad, though. A garage is a good idea if you're married. ...or
perhaps if not a garage, a least a dog house. ;-)



A garage is a good place for the car when it is pouring down raining
outside and you need to enter or exit the vehicle.

A carport is the same idea, except that it won't keep it warm (a bad thing in
freezing weather). But that's the point, either keep her dry or you'll need
the dog house to keep you dry. ;-)

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:


A garage is a good place for the car when it is pouring down raining
outside and you need to enter or exit the vehicle.


That's what a towel is for. If you don't keep one in your car, you
probably should. Great for drying off after soaking rains, also good for
use as "packaging" to keep something from shifting, or even as a place to
catch a bunch of little stuff.

(See Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy for more uses of towels.)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 7/13/2012 10:45 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 09:18:19 -0400, wrote:


A (heated) garage is for tools.

A carport isn't bad, though. A garage is a good idea if you're married. ...or
perhaps if not a garage, a least a dog house. ;-)

Your dog should live in your house, with your wife, to remind her how
you deserve to be treated. You need a shed for your toys, err, tools
that don't fit in the garage, like lawn mowers, shovels, rakes and other
non-woodworking stuff that doesn't fit in the garage.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 7/13/2012 10:53 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/13/2012 9:45 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 09:18:19 -0400, Jack wrote:

A (heated) garage is for tools.

A carport isn't bad, though. A garage is a good idea if you're
married. ...or
perhaps if not a garage, a least a dog house. ;-)

A garage is a good place for the car when it is pouring down raining
outside and you need to enter or exit the vehicle.

You still have to get out of your car and into the garage to move all
your tools around so the car will fit. Might as well use the correct
tool for staying dry, an umbrella or rain coat and booties...

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 08:42:00 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 7/13/2012 10:45 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 09:18:19 -0400, wrote:


A (heated) garage is for tools.

A carport isn't bad, though. A garage is a good idea if you're married. ...or
perhaps if not a garage, a least a dog house. ;-)

Your dog should live in your house, with your wife, to remind her how
you deserve to be treated.

Is there a reason you think I have a dog? ;-)

You need a shed for your toys, err, tools
that don't fit in the garage, like lawn mowers, shovels, rakes and other
non-woodworking stuff that doesn't fit in the garage.

Thought about it, but they really don't take that much space, hanging from the
walls. A better solution, though more expensive (in more ways than one), was
to buy a house with a basement. I use it instead of a dog house (she still
lives in the one without the basement). ;-)