I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you just
supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is broken).

On 6/5/2012 8:47 AM, CW wrote:
I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you
just supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is broken).

Have you ever used an impact wrench? No clutch however they are
variable speed so you do and or can fewness a bit. Probably not going
to be the best choice for #6 screws and smaller but I have never had a
problem with larger screws. Basically a coarse driver compared to a
drill driver with a clutch. You will probably use it more than a
regular drill driver with clutch.

"CW" wrote in
m:

I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you
just supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is
broken).



The ones I've seen have no clutch. When the impact driver starts
impacting, the rotational speed slows down and it's easy to sink the screw
to the correct depth. On a normal 3" screw with predrilled hole, it will
drive about 85-90% of the way in without impacting then start impacting.

These are observations about my tool, other tools might work differently.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

They do not have a clutch.
They are like a full size auto impact driver with hammers in the housing.

The little ones are great for woodworking, plenty of power.

The nice thing is that I have not had cam out with one.
The bad thing is that you can snap heads on soft screws. But it's rare.

They are so powerful an 18V is not needed for woodworking. A 10 or 12v
is fine. If framing a deck you may want the 18v. But my 10v Hitachi can
drive deck screws easily.

I didn't think I needed one when they first hit the market. Now I
realize how dumb that was. They are fantastic.

On 6/5/2012 9:47 AM, CW wrote:
I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you
just supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is broken).

On 6/5/2012 9:03 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/5/2012 8:47 AM, CW wrote:
I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you
just supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is broken).

Have you ever used an impact wrench? No clutch however they are variable
speed so you do and or can fewness a bit. Probably not going to be the
best choice for #6 screws and smaller but I have never had a problem
with larger screws. Basically a coarse driver compared to a drill driver
with a clutch. You will probably use it more than a regular drill driver
with clutch.

Still don't like the rattling sound of an impact driver when it's
pushing hard, but you can't argue with the results.

Don't think I would have ever bought one if I had not watched you drive
3" spax screws into cabinet blocking like butter some years back.

My little 18v Milwaukee BTD141 has become my go-to driver for most
everything due to its small size and big power ... even mounting drawer
slides on spacers. The responsive trigger lets you drive a small screw
slowly and with no impact.

The slightly larger Milwaukee drill, that is part of the pair, hardly
gets used, except to drill ...

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 6/5/2012 9:04 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

These are observations about my tool, other tools might work differently.

That's what he said.

apologies for juvenile behavior :-)

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 6/5/2012 9:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/5/2012 9:03 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/5/2012 8:47 AM, CW wrote:
I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you
just supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is
broken).

Have you ever used an impact wrench? No clutch however they are variable
speed so you do and or can fewness a bit. Probably not going to be the
best choice for #6 screws and smaller but I have never had a problem
with larger screws. Basically a coarse driver compared to a drill driver
with a clutch. You will probably use it more than a regular drill driver
with clutch.

Still don't like the rattling sound of an impact driver when it's
pushing hard, but you can't argue with the results.

Don't think I would have ever bought one if I had not watched you drive
3" spax screws into cabinet blocking like butter some years back.

My little 18v Milwaukee BTD141 has become my go-to driver for most
everything due to its small size and big power ... even mounting drawer
slides on spacers. The responsive trigger lets you drive a small screw
slowly and with no impact.

The slightly larger Milwaukee drill, that is part of the pair, hardly
gets used, except to drill ...


Should that be Makita instead of Milwaukee?

Puckdropper wrote:
"CW" wrote in
m:

I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you
just supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is
broken).



The ones I've seen have no clutch. When the impact driver starts
impacting, the rotational speed slows down and it's easy to sink the
screw to the correct depth. On a normal 3" screw with predrilled
hole, it will drive about 85-90% of the way in without impacting then
start impacting.

These are observations about my tool, other tools might work
differently.


So - these are just my observations and my thoughts. I don't use my impact
unless I'm drilling into sheet metal or the likes. I have never found it
complicated to control my drill motor - whether they be corded or cordless,
in order to sink a screw properly. I don't use any adapters to screw in
sheet rock, or to screw two pieces of hardwood together. I do watch what is
going on with my gun and the screw as I screw it in, but I've just never
seen the need for using my impact in any woodworking use. Not to say that I
don't think it would work - just don't see all of the hullabaloo over a tool
that isn't really all that necessary in this medium.

--

-Mike-

On 6/5/12 11:59 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in
m:

I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you
just supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is
broken).



The ones I've seen have no clutch. When the impact driver starts
impacting, the rotational speed slows down and it's easy to sink the
screw to the correct depth. On a normal 3" screw with predrilled
hole, it will drive about 85-90% of the way in without impacting then
start impacting.

These are observations about my tool, other tools might work
differently.


So - these are just my observations and my thoughts. I don't use my impact
unless I'm drilling into sheet metal or the likes. I have never found it
complicated to control my drill motor - whether they be corded or cordless,
in order to sink a screw properly. I don't use any adapters to screw in
sheet rock, or to screw two pieces of hardwood together. I do watch what is
going on with my gun and the screw as I screw it in, but I've just never
seen the need for using my impact in any woodworking use. Not to say that I
don't think it would work - just don't see all of the hullabaloo over a tool
that isn't really all that necessary in this medium.


I can't wait to get one. Not only are they much shorter than the typical
driver, allowing access to spaces a regular sized drill can get to, but
they allow you to drive screws with much less "push." This is very handy
for the aforementioned tight spaces which usually have you at an angle
and reach that doesn't let you get any "push" as you drive the screw.

BTW, you must be one bad-ass sheetrock hanger. I'm hanging just a half
dozen or so sheets in my bathroom(s) remodel and I can't imagine how it
would look and what a huge PITA it would be without that dimpling
adapter. (see: above "push" as well)



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:


BTW, you must be one bad-ass sheetrock hanger. I'm hanging just a half
dozen or so sheets in my bathroom(s) remodel and I can't imagine how
it would look and what a huge PITA it would be without that dimpling
adapter. (see: above "push" as well)

Oh hell no Mike. Not bad ass in any regard. Like I said - I just watch the
screw as I'm driving it in. For certain, I lose speed in doing it this way,
but at the end of the day, it does not add up to that much for guys like you
and I, doing projects around the house. I'm sure the expert in the group
will chime in and tell about how hanging thousands of feet of sheet rock
makes a difference, but for what we generally do, you just don't achieve
that level of difference. It is actually quite easy to watch your screw,
and to make good time in doing so, without any sort of adapter. Hell - do a
little experiment. Try driving screws without a clutch or an adapter, and
compare that to a few good runs at doing it "free-hand". I bet you will
find that the difference is not all that great.

--

-Mike-

On 6/5/12 12:17 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


BTW, you must be one bad-ass sheetrock hanger. I'm hanging just a half
dozen or so sheets in my bathroom(s) remodel and I can't imagine how
it would look and what a huge PITA it would be without that dimpling
adapter. (see: above "push" as well)

Oh hell no Mike. Not bad ass in any regard. Like I said - I just watch the
screw as I'm driving it in. For certain, I lose speed in doing it this way,
but at the end of the day, it does not add up to that much for guys like you
and I, doing projects around the house. I'm sure the expert in the group
will chime in and tell about how hanging thousands of feet of sheet rock
makes a difference, but for what we generally do, you just don't achieve
that level of difference. It is actually quite easy to watch your screw,
and to make good time in doing so, without any sort of adapter. Hell - do a
little experiment. Try driving screws without a clutch or an adapter, and
compare that to a few good runs at doing it "free-hand". I bet you will
find that the difference is not all that great.


The adapter I use has one benefit I have found to be very useful. It
will push the sheetrock against the stud/joist before releasing the
screw out. The head on the adapter is fairly big so it can apply a lot
of force onto the sheetrock. A regular bit would push the bit right into
the sheetrock before pushing it anywhere.

I hate when sheetrock doesn't sit flush against the stud/joist. Even
though I use my hands and body to push against the sheets, I'm not
always at a good angle to push very hard and that adapter really helps.
It's also magnetic and the bits fit the screw perfectly. Given it cost
less than a pound of screws, it's probably the best bang-for-buck tool
I've ever purchased.

To each his own. I'm not arguing or trying to convince you to use one.
I'm simply providing information to anyone else reading who's wondering
if they should use one.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:

The adapter I use has one benefit I have found to be very useful. It
will push the sheetrock against the stud/joist before releasing the
screw out. The head on the adapter is fairly big so it can apply a lot
of force onto the sheetrock. A regular bit would push the bit right
into the sheetrock before pushing it anywhere.


Yup - a requirement for sure. I grew up before the days of screw guns where
you had to learn to push the sheetrock in while/before hammering in a nail,
so it is just commonplace for me to do so now. I lean into the sheetrock
and let the screw come home rather than counting on any pressure from my gun
to do so.


I hate when sheetrock doesn't sit flush against the stud/joist. Even
though I use my hands and body to push against the sheets, I'm not
always at a good angle to push very hard and that adapter really
helps. It's also magnetic and the bits fit the screw perfectly. Given
it cost less than a pound of screws, it's probably the best
bang-for-buck tool I've ever purchased.


In awkward positions, it is a challenge - I agree. But I've also found
where there are as many awkward situations where getting the gun to really
exert pressure to hold the sheetrock tight. Maybe that's just a matter of
perspective...


To each his own. I'm not arguing or trying to convince you to use
one. I'm simply providing information to anyone else reading who's
wondering if they should use one.

I should say - or should have said... that I have indeed used special
purpose sheetrock screw guns, adapters for my screw gun, etc. I do not deny
their value, and hope my earlier post suggested that. I was trying to point
out that things were done long before these inventions, and they are still
practical today. Different for sure - but still practical. I would never
try to deter someone from buying a dimple adapter (or whatever they are
called...), to hang sheetrock. It's more like, if I don't have one
available, I'll just screw it up secure in the knowledge that I can.

--

-Mike-

"CW" wrote in message
m...
I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you just
supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is broken).

I take it you are talking about a hand drill type, since you mentioned
clutch, and not the impact driver used to take out large bolts with straight
slots or Phillips heads.

I got a two pack DeWalt on sale. Like you, I was looking for the clutch on
the impact driver.

I really like the impact driver, but I find that there is a line as to when
to use the clutched drill, and the impact driver. I use the impact driver
for larger things that won't shear off or strip as easily. Most of my work
is in metal, but some in wood.

I like the hell out of the impact, and it does a better job at some things
than the drill, and vice versa. I also like the quick slip to change bits.
I tend to use the impact with an adapter to a 3/8" socket for many things
mechanical, like nuts and bolts, as there is not the long hose as there is
on a air ratchet.

And yes, it does take an adjustment on your trigger finger, but once you get
that, it is easy to spin it slowly, and just apply as much force as you
need.

FWIW

Steve

On 6/5/2012 10:47 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/5/2012 9:28 AM, Swingman wrote:

My little 18v Milwaukee BTD141
Should that be Makita instead of Milwaukee?
^^^^^^

By jove, you're right ... used my corded 1/2" Milwaukee yesterday and
put it away this morning and had "Milwaukee" on my mind ... I love that
tailed tool, but you do gotta watch you whisper in that baby's ear.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Mike I'll have to agree with not using the dimple adapter.
I have one and when I had to replace the bottom of the walls after a
flood in the basement I used my impact driver and it did such a great
job that I stopped using the dimpler. It's much easier to start a screw
(some metal some wood studs)... And I like to use a sleeved driver to
hold the screw, and it was much better with the impactor than the
drill/dimpler.

BTW, you must be one bad-ass sheetrock hanger. I'm hanging just a half
dozen or so sheets in my bathroom(s) remodel and I can't imagine how it
would look and what a huge PITA it would be without that dimpling
adapter. (see: above "push" as well)

CW wrote:
I have never seen an impact driver. Do they have a clutch or are you just
supposed to be fast on the trigger (my question mark key is broken).

Never seen one used until I bought one. Just a small Makita. I
especially like it when fastening faceplates to the bottom of bowls
for turning. I use a large screw and no predrilling needed. What I
especially like is, when the screw bottoms out against the metal
faceplate it just stops--absolutely no torque to the wrist like a
drill-driver gives.

--
G.W. Ross

The dentist said my wisdom teeth were
retarded.