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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment
pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
wrote in message Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ I'm not a woodworker, in fact, I think wood is for heating and stone is for building but you are asking a metalworking question so I have a thought on this. That blade is very hard so you will have no luck with a standard drill bit. You could do this with a solid carbide straight flute drill but you have to have a slow speed chuck, fine feed and rigid workholding. They are quite expensive and can be easily broken if you do it wrong. Here is a link to them at MSC, they have what you need. So, my advice would be to bring it to a metal shop and have them do it. I suppose you could hone it out with a diamond file but it may not be accurate enough for locating a blade. http://tinyurl.com/7a87v5e |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
Well, if you need it for alignment, I'm not sure my suggestion is valid.
Get a diamond bit for a dremel, and gently enlarge the hole. You can climb cut with it and it will take off a little at a time and keep it relatively round. That being said, if you need it accurate take it to a machine shop. On 3/12/2012 7:51 PM, wrote: Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
wrote in message ... Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand. First it is a must to use good cutting oil. Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round ******* File or better) to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes. If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to give you an idea of how much material you are removing. Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file. If you have a great amount of material to remove you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling with cutting oil. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In , says... wrote in message ... Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand. First it is a must to use good cutting oil. Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round ******* File or better) to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes. If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to give you an idea of how much material you are removing. Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file. If you have a great amount of material to remove you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling with cutting oil. For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-...ble-Knives-13- Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB. This is the part that he's working with. The cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches. To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes. The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a bitch. when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the (very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond drills will work in this instance. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
That would depend on the metal you were cutting. Aluminum and Titanium I
could see that happening with. Very gummy metals. Hardened steel.... less likely. On 3/13/2012 11:54 AM, chaniarts wrote: On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote: In , says... wrote in message ... Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand. First it is a must to use good cutting oil. Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round ******* File or better) to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes. If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to give you an idea of how much material you are removing. Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file. If you have a great amount of material to remove you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling with cutting oil. For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-...ble-Knives-13- Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB. This is the part that he's working with. The cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches. To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes. The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a bitch. when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the (very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond drills will work in this instance. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
In article ,
says... On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote: In , says... wrote in message ... Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand. First it is a must to use good cutting oil. Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round ******* File or better) to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes. If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to give you an idea of how much material you are removing. Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file. If you have a great amount of material to remove you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling with cutting oil. For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-...ble-Knives-13- Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB. This is the part that he's working with. The cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches. To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes. The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a bitch. when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the (very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond drills will work in this instance. If you're using diamond with steel heat is your enemy. Remember that carbon is soluble in iron--get above a certain temperature and your diamonds just vanish into the surface of the steel, that then becomes hard as Hell due to increased carbon content. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
Ok , I'll bite. What temp would be required to turn diamonds into a
liquid? Does this really happen hogging out a hole in steel or are you just showing your knowledge. 8) On 3/14/2012 1:02 AM, J. Clarke wrote: In , says... On 3/13/2012 7:16 AM, J. Clarke wrote: In , says... wrote in message ... Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand. First it is a must to use good cutting oil. Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round ******* File or better) to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes. If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to give you an idea of how much material you are removing. Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file. If you have a great amount of material to remove you have to build a drill jig. And use carbide for drilling with cutting oil. For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-...ble-Knives-13- Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB. This is the part that he's working with. The cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in the link), with them being reversible. After sharpening, since the dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly positioned. The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches. To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a new set of blades. Might also have to relieve the screw holes. The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a bitch. when i hit a piece of metal with my diamond grinder, it clogged the (very) small diamonds on the surface and stopped cutting. i don't know how well it will work if you have to hog any quantity of material in the holes. diamond hones work well on metal, but i don't think diamond drills will work in this instance. If you're using diamond with steel heat is your enemy. Remember that carbon is soluble in iron--get above a certain temperature and your diamonds just vanish into the surface of the steel, that then becomes hard as Hell due to increased carbon content. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
On Mar 13, 10:16*am, "J. Clarke" wrote:
In article , says... wrote in message .... Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). *I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? *Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? *Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ When it comes to fine tuning a hole you are better to do it by hand. First it is a must to use good cutting oil. Next a quality round file properly sized (Nicholson Round ******* File or better) to do the job. You may already have one in your toolboxes. If you have some blue marker I would use it on the hole to give you an idea of how much material you are removing. Do not waste your time with an inferior quality file. If you have *a great amount of material to remove you have to build a drill jig. *And use carbide for drilling with cutting oil. For those who don't savvy "planer", take a look at http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7352-...ble-Knives-13- Inch/dp/B0000CCXUB. *This is the part that he's working with. *The cutting edges are on the top and bottom of each piece (as oriented in the link), with them being reversible. *After sharpening, since the dimensions have changed, he needs to elongate the holes top to bottom (as oriented in the picture) so that the blades can be properly positioned. *The blades, left to right, are about 13 inches. To be cost effective, any solution would have to elongate the 6 pin holes (the locating pins go in the small holes near either end, the others are all for retaining screws) for less than the 45 bucks for a new set of blades. *Might also have to relieve the screw holes. That is a possibility regarding the screw holes. There is some slop in between the screw holes and the screws. Probably enough to work with. The alignment pin - hole has zero slop as one would expect. The blades would be full hard (takes them a long time to get dull, but hit anything at all hard and you get a nick), so filing is going to be a bitch. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
On 3/12/2012 6:51 PM, wrote:
Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ Would an end mill bit do the trick? And with that in mind, if you make the alignment hole wider will you be able to properly align the blade when putting it back in the planer? |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the
easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers the knives - one per side). Cake. The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but springs and a jig which came with the planer. I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if they thought they were making things easier. On Mar 12, 8:53*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 3/12/2012 6:51 PM, wrote: Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). *I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? *Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? *Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ Would an end mill bit do the trick? *And with that in mind, if you make the alignment hole wider will you be able to properly align the blade when putting it back in the planer? |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, wrote:
I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers the knives - one per side). Cake. Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold the blade while tightening the retaining bolts. Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig. I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a certain point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something to think about. The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but springs and a jig which came with the planer. I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if they thought they were making things easier. Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. I had one of the very first bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. It had standard style blades that had probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. The blades and their holders fit in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. Then that assembly fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. All adjusting took place outside the planer. Had DeWalt or any one else these days wanted to simply make it easier they would have come up with a set up similar to that first of its kind, Ryobi. On Mar 12, 8:53 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 3/12/2012 6:51 PM, wrote: Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ Would an end mill bit do the trick? And with that in mind, if you make the alignment hole wider will you be able to properly align the blade when putting it back in the planer? |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message news On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, wrote: I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers the knives - one per side). Cake. Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold the blade while tightening the retaining bolts. Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig. I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a certain point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something to think about. The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but springs and a jig which came with the planer. I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if they thought they were making things easier. Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. I had one of the very first bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. It had standard style blades that had probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. The blades and their holders fit in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. Then that assembly fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. All adjusting took place outside the planer. Yeah, I got one of those sitting in my garage. Blades were easy to change and to get resharpened. Replacements were cheap. Just the width restricted some work that it could do and it would always snipe the ends of the boards no matter how careful you were. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
On 3/13/2012 11:33 AM, EXT wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message news On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, wrote: I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers the knives - one per side). Cake. Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold the blade while tightening the retaining bolts. Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig. I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a certain point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something to think about. The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but springs and a jig which came with the planer. I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if they thought they were making things easier. Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. I had one of the very first bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. It had standard style blades that had probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. The blades and their holders fit in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. Then that assembly fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. All adjusting took place outside the planer. Yeah, I got one of those sitting in my garage. Blades were easy to change and to get resharpened. Replacements were cheap. Just the width restricted some work that it could do and it would always snipe the ends of the boards no matter how careful you were. Lift the board as it enters and exits the Ap10 planer and you get, or at least I got no snipe. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
On Mar 13, 7:36*am, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, wrote: I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the easy part. *I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a surface plate. *I would be able to adjust all the knives above the cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers the knives - one per side). *Cake. Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold the blade while tightening the retaining bolts. Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig. I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened differently than the rest of the knife. *If it is, once past a certain point the blade may not hold an edge as well. *Just something to think about. Good point. I don't know if they edge is different steel or not. Dewalt refers to the knives as M2 Laminated high speed steel. Is there one layer of M2 laminated on the outside or is it laminated with M2 in between other layers of steel. ?? The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. *For my old planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time (still have the original set). *No alignment pins were used but springs and a jig which came with the planer. I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if they thought they were making things easier. Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. *I had one of the very first bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. *It had standard style blades that had probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. *The blades and their holders fit in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. *Then that assembly fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. *All adjusting took place outside the planer. *Had DeWalt or any one else these days wanted to simply make it easier they would have come up with a set up similar to that first of its kind, Ryobi. On Mar 12, 8:53 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet *wrote: On 3/12/2012 6:51 PM, wrote: Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). *I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? *Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? *Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ Would an end mill bit do the trick? *And with that in mind, if you make the alignment hole wider will you be able to properly align the blade when putting it back in the planer? |
#17
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Drilling High Speed Steel
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#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
Leon wrote:
On 3/12/2012 8:40 PM, wrote: I don't know about the end mill bit, but the alignment part is the easy part. I made a dial indicator jig that is first zeroed on a surface plate. I would be able to adjust all the knives above the cutter head the same amount using a magnet attached to a bolt which goes through a piece of wood (turn the bolt and it raises or lowers the knives - one per side). Cake. Ok, so you sound pretty sure that the magnets are strong enough to hold the blade while tightening the retaining bolts. Further, I assume you are making the indexing holes larger so that you can adjust the blade in the machine vs. in your sharpening jig. I don't see any problems there assuming the cutting edge is not hardened differently than the rest of the knife. If it is, once past a certain point the blade may not hold an edge as well. Just something to think about. The hard part is making these dam holes in the knives. For my old planer (Delta) I would sharpen the "disposable" knives all the time (still have the original set). No alignment pins were used but springs and a jig which came with the planer. I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if they thought they were making things easier. Absolutely a tactic to sell more knives. I had one of the very first bench top planers, an AP10 Ryobi. It had standard style blades that had probably 1/4" of resharpenable area. The blades and their holders fit in a jig for correct positioning after sharpening. Then that assembly fit onto indexing pins on the cutter head. All adjusting took place outside the planer. Had DeWalt or any one else these days wanted to simply make it easier they would have come up with a set up similar to that first of its kind, Ryobi. Same here. If I accidentally hit a nail, (which I did) The blades could be staggered a little so the notches in the blades did not coincide. this eliminated the bead that would otherwise be formed on later boards. Sounds like the indexing pins would eliminate this little trick. -- Gerald Ross If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
[...snip...]
I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if they thought they were making things easier. [...snip...] Just my opinion, Dewalt aren't the only brand that uses disposable / non-sharpenable knives. So in part it is to remain competitive. Sending out a set of 3 knives 2 times for sharpening is not that much less $$ than buying a new set. Plus with indexed knives it can be much faster to install them. If, like you, someone wants to sharpen their own blades, then the equation is dramatically changed. |
#20
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Drilling High Speed Steel
On 3/14/2012 3:49 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
[...snip...] I'm not sure if this was a tactic by Dewalt to sell more knives or if they thought they were making things easier. [...snip...] Just my opinion, Dewalt aren't the only brand that uses disposable / non-sharpenable knives. So in part it is to remain competitive. Sending out a set of 3 knives 2 times for sharpening is not that much less $$ than buying a new set. Plus with indexed knives it can be much faster to install them. If, like you, someone wants to sharpen their own blades, then the equation is dramatically changed. I saw it that way too but IMHO the resharpenable knives tend to go/last much longer between resharpenings than how often the disposable ones seem to be getting replaced. It has bene quite a long time since having planer knives sharpened, 10+ years IIRC, I paid 75 cents per linear inch. And that said, I use my thickness planer as a thickness planer I absolutely do not expect a finished surface result, wrong tool. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
On 3/12/2012 7:51 PM, wrote:
Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ Solid carbide ball nose end mill and rigid setup solidly clamped to a drill press table. I don't know how hard the material is but I would start with the slowest speed the drill press allows with a light but firm feed (don't bounce the cutter). If it doesn't cut at first (no chips) don't force it, try a bit more speed until it bites. Once it bites (starts throwing chips) it will go through like butter. Do your best to center the cutter in the existing hole and use oil as a lubricant, whatever you have on hand, but you won't need a lot. John |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
Don't do it. I would first try another blade, if you have the same problem,
then the problem is with the pin not the hole. Better to repaire one pin than a dozen blades. I would also check with the mfg. of the unit and see if anyone else has had the same problem, and if they did what was the fix they used. Steel can be brittle, and any grinding, drilling etc. can weaken it causing it to break, you do not need the experience of flying metal comming out of a planer in all directions. Just my 2 cents worth. wrote in message ... Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Drilling High Speed Steel
In article ,
wrote: Trying to widen a hole on a planer blade that goes over a alignment pin on the cutterhead (DW735). I tried using a cobalt bit (rigid) and it ended up getting chewed up and cut very little metal. Is there a way to do this in a home shop? Do I need a diamond or carbide bit? Would it be worth taking the knives to a metal shop? What do you guys think? More on my frustration he http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/ If the hole size is not critical, you could use a carbide or diamond bit in a die grinder. They are commonly pneumatic powered and reasonably priced if you have an air compressor adequate to power one. Here's an electric version from HF that is a good value for the price: http://www.harborfreight.com/electri...aft-44141.html It's about 3 times as big and heavy as a pneumatic tool but I've found it very useful, even though I do have an air compressor. -- There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat, plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken) Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org |
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