To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 26 Jan 2012 13:58:47 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.

Puckdropper

OoooOOOOoooooh, you mean on a board. I was gonna' say "A double shot
of Makers Mark."

On 1/26/2012 7:58 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.

Puckdropper



I have discovered Mirka Goldflex soft sand paper. I use 180 grit and
sand the edges by hand. the soft foam backing reduces pressure on the
edges so that they get a consistent eased effect. The paper is quite
strong and not likely to tare.

http://www.mirka.com/en/Abrasives/Ab...LEX-SOFT___29S

On Jan 26, 5:58*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I use a 1/16th round over wherever I can if I am making a formal
piece. You would be surprised how much more elegant a piece looks and
feels with that nearly imperceptible detail. Not an easy bit to find
sometimes but I always have a 1/2" and 1/4" shank version around.

Also very easy to match using sand paper when you pre-round pieces
that might lap for instance and you have to leave some undone near the
joint and finish the round over after assembly.

I am always amazed how table legs go from a long square piece of
sanded lumber to a beautiful furniture component as you apply that
roundover to the 4 edges.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 5:58 am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I use a 1/16th round over wherever I can if I am making a formal
piece. You would be surprised how much more elegant a piece looks and
feels with that nearly imperceptible detail. Not an easy bit to find
sometimes but I always have a 1/2" and 1/4" shank version around.

Also very easy to match using sand paper when you pre-round pieces
that might lap for instance and you have to leave some undone near the
joint and finish the round over after assembly.

I am always amazed how table legs go from a long square piece of
sanded lumber to a beautiful furniture component as you apply that
roundover to the 4 edges.

....and for those of use who hate the sound of a router, a block plane
applied before the final hand-sanding works nicely. ;~)

John

...and for those of use who hate the sound of a router, a block plane
applied before the final hand-sanding works nicely. ;~)

John- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, I apply this method when doing less "formal" pieces or
specifically to be a bit more anitquish or classical. I really try not
to sand it out after. It is a great joy with a well tuned plane.
Again, I think the eye percieves the difference. I believe if you had
two identical pieces except for using these two round over methods,
the planed version would look somehow more antique. The brain sees
things we don't realize.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...

...and for those of use who hate the sound of a router, a block plane
applied before the final hand-sanding works nicely. ;~)

John- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, I apply this method when doing less "formal" pieces or
specifically to be a bit more anitquish or classical. I really try not
to sand it out after. It is a great joy with a well tuned plane.
Again, I think the eye percieves the difference. I believe if you had
two identical pieces except for using these two round over methods,
the planed version would look somehow more antique. The brain sees
things we don't realize.

I don't sand the round over either... just the flats leading up to it. I
like the subtle faceted aspect of the planed corners.

Given that the vast majority of the things I make have their design roots in
the 17th to mid 20th century the planed corners work out just fine. I feel
no compulsion to overdo them. On the other hand, when I want a heavy round
over I use my shaper. ;~)

John

In article
,
SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I use a 1/16th round over wherever I can if I am making a formal
piece. You would be surprised how much more elegant a piece looks and
feels with that nearly imperceptible detail. Not an easy bit to find
sometimes but I always have a 1/2" and 1/4" shank version around.

I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182

--
Woodworking and more at http://www.woodenwabbits.com

Trouble with a plane for finishing is you catch an end of a grain and
your piece is screwed.

---------------
"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182

On Jan 27, 6:55*am, "m II" wrote:
Trouble with a plane for finishing is you catch an end *of a grain and
your piece is screwed.

---------------"Dave Balderstone" *wrote in message

news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182

I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.

I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
sharpen it?

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
On Jan 27, 6:55 am, "m II" wrote:
Trouble with a plane for finishing is you catch an end of a grain and
your piece is screwed.

---------------"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message

news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182

I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.

I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
sharpen it?

I think that's why they list the replacement blade prominently on the page.
;~)

It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over plane
as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...

I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might work
if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??

John

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 13:02:36 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182

I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.

I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
sharpen it?

I think that's why they list the replacement blade prominently on the page.
;~)

It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over plane
as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...

I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might work
if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??


How about wrapping a small dowel with 1600 grit w/d and scary sharpen it? 99
cents a sheet at the local True Value hardware.

In article , Roy
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 13:02:36 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182

I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.

I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
sharpen it?

I think that's why they list the replacement blade prominently on the page.
;~)

It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over plane
as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...

I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might work
if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??


How about wrapping a small dowel with 1600 grit w/d and scary sharpen it? 99
cents a sheet at the local True Value hardware.

Ayup. If you really want scary, use a diamond paste...

--
Woodworking and more at http://www.woodenwabbits.com

"Roy" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 13:02:36 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182

I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.

I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
sharpen it?

I think that's why they list the replacement blade prominently on the
page.
;~)

It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over
plane
as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...

I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might
work
if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??


How about wrapping a small dowel with 1600 grit w/d and scary sharpen it?
99
cents a sheet at the local True Value hardware.

Maybe drill rod... that plane has a 1/16" radius cutter!

In article , John
Grossbohlin wrote:

Maybe drill rod... that plane has a 1/16" radius cutter!

No the blade radius is larger than that. 1/16 is achieved by adjusting
the blade.

--
Woodworking and more at http://www.woodenwabbits.com

On Jan 27, 10:57*pm, Dave Balderstone
wrote:
In article , John

Grossbohlin wrote:
Maybe drill rod... that plane has a 1/16" radius cutter!

No the blade radius is larger than that. 1/16 is achieved by adjusting
the blade.

--
Woodworking and more at http://www.woodenwabbits.com

Check out the Slick Planes too...carbide cutters I think.
JP

"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
m...



It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over plane
as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...

I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might work
if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??
================================================== ================
Take a piece of wood of the shape you want for a slip, spray with adhesive
and stick the appropriate grit of sandpaper to it. Alternatively, take that
same shaped stick and apply loose abrasive (valve grinding compound, ect.
and go at it.