I do my final plane iron sharpening on the 8000grit stone and when I
am lapping the back it gets really sticky and a black "glaze" appears.
I soaked the stone and spray a bit of water on it as I work. The
iron is really flat just like the stone and once the glazing starts it
is really tough to move the iron on the stone.

What am I doing wrong and how do I correct this?
Joe

Joe R. wrote:
I do my final plane iron sharpening on the 8000grit stone and when I
am lapping the back it gets really sticky and a black "glaze" appears.
I soaked the stone and spray a bit of water on it as I work. The
iron is really flat just like the stone and once the glazing starts it
is really tough to move the iron on the stone.

What am I doing wrong and how do I correct this?
Joe


1) Keep the stone submerged in distilled water when not in use.

2) Dress the waterstone with a diamond hone before each use. This will
keep it nice and flat. You can also give it a good scrub with pumice and
a scouring pad.

3) During use, keep the stone wet. The black glaze you see is tiny metal
filings that bonded to the stone because it's not wet enough. Dressing
the stone will deglaze it.

--
-linux_lad
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Joe, You need to use a Nagura Stone
http://japanwoodworker.com/page.asp?content_id=2817

Above is a line that will help explain the use and process.

Dave


"Joe R." wrote in message
om...
I do my final plane iron sharpening on the 8000grit stone and when I
am lapping the back it gets really sticky and a black "glaze" appears.
I soaked the stone and spray a bit of water on it as I work. The
iron is really flat just like the stone and once the glazing starts it
is really tough to move the iron on the stone.

What am I doing wrong and how do I correct this?
Joe

John,

you have reached the point where the stone and iron are 'sucking' together.
Personally, I wouldn't take it any further. The iron needs to be flat and
smooth at the back leading edge only - not the entire back - so you may wish
to concentrate on the first 1" or so only.

The 'glaze' you describe is a mixture of metal filings, water and stone
slurry, a natural result of the sharpening process.

If you are really keen to have the entire back at a mirror shine, try only
flattening 1/2 at a time. Another technique is to make a holder for the iron
to give yourself more to grip.

--
Greg


"Joe R." wrote in message
om...
I do my final plane iron sharpening on the 8000grit stone and when I
am lapping the back it gets really sticky and a black "glaze" appears.
I soaked the stone and spray a bit of water on it as I work. The
iron is really flat just like the stone and once the glazing starts it
is really tough to move the iron on the stone.

What am I doing wrong and how do I correct this?
Joe

"-linux_lad" wrote in message
news


1) Keep the stone submerged in distilled water when not in use.

????????????????????

Thank you for the messages. I was going from a 1500 DMT diamond to a
8000 water stone and I just ordered a 3000 grit water stone to use
after the 1500 DMT, as well as a magnifying glass to see my progress
as I go through the different grits. When I get the new stone I will
be sure to build up the slurry and work off of that.
Joe
Does anybody have a sharpness test other than shaving my arms or my
wife's legs?

Apply the tool to the job at hand and see how it does.

"Joe R." wrote in message
om...
Thank you for the messages. I was going from a 1500 DMT diamond to a
8000 water stone and I just ordered a 3000 grit water stone to use
after the 1500 DMT, as well as a magnifying glass to see my progress
as I go through the different grits. When I get the new stone I will
be sure to build up the slurry and work off of that.
Joe
Does anybody have a sharpness test other than shaving my arms or my
wife's legs?

Yes, use the tool. That is the point, isn't it? It often makes me laugh
reading on here about people that, obviously, their whole purpose in life is
to get the shiniest blade and will spend mass dollars and time achieving it.
Now watch, the relentless rock rubbers will flame me.

"Joe R." wrote in message Does anybody have a sharpness
test other than shaving my arms or my
wife's legs?

In article ,
says...
Thank you for the messages. I was going from a 1500 DMT diamond to a
8000 water stone and I just ordered a 3000 grit water stone to use
after the 1500 DMT, as well as a magnifying glass to see my progress
as I go through the different grits. When I get the new stone I will
be sure to build up the slurry and work off of that.
Joe
Does anybody have a sharpness test other than shaving my arms or my
wife's legs?

Magnifying glass?

If you want to test the edge try shaving off oak end grain. If it comes
off cleanly and leaves a smooth surface you have arrived.

I suggest you only attempt the test after using all your new stones and
magnifying glass. That way you won't be kicking yourself in the ass for
having spent so much money for so little return.

--
MikeG
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 09:04:58 -0400, MikeG
wrote:


I suggest you only attempt the test after using all your new stones and
magnifying glass. That way you won't be kicking yourself in the ass for
having spent so much money for so little return.

He could always get some of those 15000 and 30000 Shapton stones and
enter sharpening contests. G

Barry

CW wrote:

"-linux_lad" wrote in message
news

1) Keep the stone submerged in distilled water when not in use.


????????????????????




Waterstones, like hot women, perform best when wet. If you keep it
submerged, you won't have to spend twenty or thirty minutes waiting for
water to penetrate a dry waterstone. If you soak it in fresh, distilled
water, you won't get any mold growth. If you do a lot of work with
chisels, you'll come to appreciate having a stone ready for use all the
time. If you're in a real hurry, a quick touch-up on the buffer with a
dab of jewler's rouge will also do the job.

(apologies to the ladies)
--
-linux_lad
To verify that this post isn't forged, click he
http://www.spoofproof.org/verify.php...1e6428889eebc5

On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 07:11:21 -0700, -linux_lad
wrote:

Waterstones, like hot women, perform best when wet.

My ex- was certainly fond of long soakings in the bathtub (where I
keep my waterstones, now that I'm single) but she just never did get
used to being rubbed down with that nagura stone to work up a slurry.

Nice, chlorinated tap water is far less hospitable to mould, if you worry
about that.

"-linux_lad" wrote in message
...
CW wrote:

"-linux_lad" wrote in message
news


If you soak it in fresh, distilled
water, you won't get any mold growth.

They do that at spas. Called "exfoliation," I believe. Guess it wasn't the
same unless administered by some Latin or Mediterranean type....

or "Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 07:11:21 -0700, -linux_lad
wrote:

Waterstones, like hot women, perform best when wet.

My ex- was certainly fond of long soakings in the bathtub (where I
keep my waterstones, now that I'm single) but she just never did get
used to being rubbed down with that nagura stone to work up a slurry.