I'm a rank newbie. I need some wood glue. If I had to buy one glue, what
should it be? If there are many different applications, and different glues
are needed to do different things, which others should I buy, and can you
provide a brief description of what each does?

I am a bit overwhelmed after going to buy some glue today, a simple task, I
thought. There are a lot of different types. But I know that basically,
there is probably one main type that is used for lots of things, one that is
used for many things, and one that is used only occasionally.

In the past, I have thrown away glue from it getting thick, probably from
age. Are there any storage secrets for keeping glue? Cabinet with light
bulb? Protect from freezing? Keep in small ice chest? etc ?

I just want to go buy some glue for building some birdhouses, the occasional
wood repair around the house, and basic woodworking tasks, nothing really
complicated or high grade. Just want some of what I will be using.

And how big a jar do I need to get without wasting it before I use it?

Thanks.

Steve

On 01/07/2012 07:17 PM, Steve B wrote:
I'm a rank newbie. I need some wood glue. If I had to buy one glue, what
should it be? If there are many different applications, and different glues
are needed to do different things, which others should I buy, and can you
provide a brief description of what each does?

I am a bit overwhelmed after going to buy some glue today, a simple task, I
thought. There are a lot of different types. But I know that basically,
there is probably one main type that is used for lots of things, one that is
used for many things, and one that is used only occasionally.

In the past, I have thrown away glue from it getting thick, probably from
age. Are there any storage secrets for keeping glue? Cabinet with light
bulb? Protect from freezing? Keep in small ice chest? etc ?

I just want to go buy some glue for building some birdhouses, the occasional
wood repair around the house, and basic woodworking tasks, nothing really
complicated or high grade. Just want some of what I will be using.

And how big a jar do I need to get without wasting it before I use it?

Thanks.

Steve




The smallest bottle of TightBond II or if most of your projects will be
out in the (wet) weather, Tightbond III.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On Sat, 7 Jan 2012 18:17:55 -0800, "Steve B" wrote:

I'm a rank newbie. I need some wood glue. If I had to buy one glue, what
should it be?


And how big a jar do I need to get without wasting it before I use it?


For outside work like your birdhouses, Titebond III is best.
Otherwise, whatever brand of wood glue the local store sells; they are
all sufficient for 99% of what you'll do. It is good for about a
year, maybe two. Keep it from freezing.

On Jan 7, 10:42*pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jan 2012 18:17:55 -0800, "Steve B" wrote:
I'm a rank newbie. *I need some wood glue. *If I had to buy one glue, what
should it be?

And how big a jar do I need to get without wasting it before I use it?

For outside work like your birdhouses, Titebond III is best.
Otherwise, whatever brand of wood glue the local store sells; they are
all sufficient for 99% of what you'll do. *It is good for about a
year, maybe two. *Keep it from freezing.

How's he going to keep the glue on the birdhouses from freezing?
Little tiny propane heaters? ;-)

On Jan 7, 8:06*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:42*pm, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sat, 7 Jan 2012 18:17:55 -0800, "Steve B" wrote:
I'm a rank newbie. *I need some wood glue. *If I had to buy one glue, what
should it be?

And how big a jar do I need to get without wasting it before I use it?

For outside work like your birdhouses, Titebond III is best.
Otherwise, whatever brand of wood glue the local store sells; they are
all sufficient for 99% of what you'll do. *It is good for about a
year, maybe two. *Keep it from freezing.

How's he going to keep the glue on the birdhouses from freezing?
Little tiny propane heaters? *;-)

Cute. Don't let the bottle of unused glue freeze.

On Jan 7, 8:17*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I'm a rank newbie. *I need some wood glue. *If I had to buy one glue, what
should it be? *If there are many different applications, and different glues
are needed to do different things, which others should I buy, and can you
provide a brief description of what each does?

I am a bit overwhelmed after going to buy some glue today, a simple task, I
thought. *There are a lot of different types. * But I know that basically,
there is probably one main type that is used for lots of things, one that is
used for many things, and one that is used only occasionally.

In the past, I have thrown away glue from it getting thick, probably from
age. *Are there any storage secrets for keeping glue? *Cabinet with light
bulb? *Protect from freezing? *Keep in small ice chest? *etc ?

I just want to go buy some glue for building some birdhouses, the occasional
wood repair around the house, and basic woodworking tasks, nothing really
complicated or high grade. *Just want some of what I will be using.

And how big a jar do I need to get without wasting it before I use it?

Thanks.

Steve

Ditto previous input on Titebond products. Titebond II works for most
woodworking projects. You will need III for outdoor projects.
Gorilla make a good outdoor glue too but it is messy and expensive,
and for the applications you suggest it might be overkill.

RonB

"Steve B" writes:


I am a bit overwhelmed after going to buy some glue today, a simple task, I
thought. There are a lot of different types. But I know that basically,
there is probably one main type that is used for lots of things, one that is
used for many things, and one that is used only occasionally.

Simple white and yellow PVA glues will work for 90% of woodworking purposes.

Some PVA glues are formulated to be more resistant to moisture, this generally
matters for constant or near-constant exposure. Some have colorants added to
help hide glue lines in darker hardwoods.

Polyurethane glues are moisture activated, moisture resistant and have some
gap-filling abilities (the glue expands into a foam when activated).

Hide glues are made from animal products. Popular with restorers due
to historic use and ease of repair (heat will disrupt the bond). Used for
veneering and furniture assembly (e.g chair legs) historically. Used warm,
it requires a glue pot. The odor may be offensive to some.

Contact cement is used to adhere veneer (or e.g. formica) to a stable substrate.

CA (cyanoacrylate) glues (aka superglue) bond dissimilar materials but
work with wood. Chemical accellerants and retardants are available to adjust
bonding time.


In the past, I have thrown away glue from it getting thick, probably from
age. Are there any storage secrets for keeping glue? Cabinet with light
bulb? Protect from freezing? Keep in small ice chest? etc ?

Cool, dark place. Don't let it freeze. Storage conditions and lifetime are
generally noted on container.

scott

On 1/8/2012 1:08 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
....

Polyurethane glues are moisture activated, moisture resistant and have some
gap-filling abilities (the glue expands into a foam when activated).
....

(To OP)

But, the operative word there is "foam". The gap is full of air bubbles
which sucks big time for finishing. Do _NOT_ think one can make up for
ill-fitting joints this way.

And, while the waterproof nature may have some benefit in some specific
applications, that it doesn't clean up w/ water, is very slow setting
and is overall just a pita mess doesn't leave much to recommend it for
anything but where it is really, really needed or a regular wood glue
won't work for some other reason. (Not to mention it doesn't have the
strength of a good yellow PVA in tests.)

If it weren't for the catchy name and the add campaign, they would
hardly be missed by woodworkers.

--

Believe it or not, plain old regular white Elmers school glue works
just fine as a wood glue. I recall Sam Maloof using it for his
rocking chairs. The various Titebond brand glues probably work better
for outside applications and may even be better for inside too. But
white school glue holds wood together very well. So if you're at the
grocery store and need glue, buy the white school glue. If you're at
Home Depot, then get the Titebond brand.



On Jan 7, 8:17*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I'm a rank newbie. *I need some wood glue. *If I had to buy one glue, what
should it be? *If there are many different applications, and different glues
are needed to do different things, which others should I buy, and can you
provide a brief description of what each does?

I am a bit overwhelmed after going to buy some glue today, a simple task, I
thought. *There are a lot of different types. * But I know that basically,
there is probably one main type that is used for lots of things, one that is
used for many things, and one that is used only occasionally.

In the past, I have thrown away glue from it getting thick, probably from
age. *Are there any storage secrets for keeping glue? *Cabinet with light
bulb? *Protect from freezing? *Keep in small ice chest? *etc ?

I just want to go buy some glue for building some birdhouses, the occasional
wood repair around the house, and basic woodworking tasks, nothing really
complicated or high grade. *Just want some of what I will be using.

And how big a jar do I need to get without wasting it before I use it?

Thanks.

Steve

On 1/8/2012 7:14 AM, RonB wrote:

Thanks.

Steve

Ditto previous input on Titebond products. Titebond II works for most
woodworking projects. You will need III for outdoor projects.
Gorilla make a good outdoor glue too but it is messy and expensive,
and for the applications you suggest it might be overkill.

RonB

Gorilla Polyurethane is messy. Gorilla regular white wood glue is no
more messy than TB, TB II or TB III. Keep in mind that Titebond also
makes the messy polyurethane glue.

On 1/8/2012 2:16 PM, dpb wrote:
On 1/8/2012 1:08 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
...

Polyurethane glues are moisture activated, moisture resistant and have
some
gap-filling abilities (the glue expands into a foam when activated).
...

(To OP)

But, the operative word there is "foam". The gap is full of air bubbles
which sucks big time for finishing. Do _NOT_ think one can make up for
ill-fitting joints this way.

And, while the waterproof nature may have some benefit in some specific
applications, that it doesn't clean up w/ water, is very slow setting
and is overall just a pita mess doesn't leave much to recommend it for
anything but where it is really, really needed or a regular wood glue
won't work for some other reason. (Not to mention it doesn't have the
strength of a good yellow PVA in tests.)

If it weren't for the catchy name and the add campaign, they would
hardly be missed by woodworkers.

--

If you are talking about Gorilla glue, certainly you are remarking about
the polyurethane glue that they manufacture. Their white wood glue OTOH
is great glue and dries clear.

On 1/8/2012 4:45 PM, Leon wrote:
....

If you are talking about Gorilla glue, certainly you are remarking about
the polyurethane glue that they manufacture. Their white wood glue OTOH
is great glue and dries clear.

Yes, I'm speaking of the polyurethanes in general and the monkey brand
in particular.

I've not used their wood glue; it is indeed a totally different product
and is likely as suitable as any other.

--

On 1/7/2012 8:17 PM, Steve B wrote:


In the past, I have thrown away glue from it getting thick, probably from
age. Are there any storage secrets for keeping glue? Cabinet with light
bulb? Protect from freezing? Keep in small ice chest? etc ?


When your white or yellow wood glue gets thick try banging the bottle
against a solid object ir the palm of your hand a few times. It is not
unusual for the glue to thicken when it just sits. If the glue is still
good it will re liquify almost immediately when you jar the container.

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 19:08:08 +0000, Scott Lurndal wrote:

Hide glues are made from animal products. Popular with restorers due to
historic use and ease of repair (heat will disrupt the bond). Used for
veneering and furniture assembly (e.g chair legs) historically. Used
warm, it requires a glue pot. The odor may be offensive to some.

Having just used hide glue in a glue pot for a veneering project, I can
testify that there is little or no odor unless you overheat it. Past
150F it smells awful. My electric glue pot keeps it at 140-145.

However, it is messy. The liquid version (no heating required) is even
messier.

But the stuff is reversible, doesn't creep under tension, doesn't block
stains like modern glues, and the liquid stuff gives a long open time.

I would only use the hot stuff for veneering, and the liquid where long
open time and/or the other attributes mentioned above are needed. For
most stuff it's Titebond II or III.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Jan 8, 7:54*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 19:08:08 +0000, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Hide glues are made from animal products. *Popular with restorers due to
historic use and ease of repair (heat will disrupt the bond). Used for
veneering and furniture assembly (e.g chair legs) historically. *Used
warm, it requires a glue pot. * The odor may be offensive to some.

Having just used hide glue in a glue pot for a veneering project, I can
testify that there is little or no odor unless you overheat it. *Past
150F it smells awful. *My electric glue pot keeps it at 140-145.

However, it is messy. *The liquid version (no heating required) is even
messier.

Squeezeout cleans up with rag and some hot water. TB
requires first going onto rec.woodworking and getting 43
different answers, and even then, it's a pain.

But the stuff is reversible, doesn't creep under tension, doesn't block
stains like modern glues,

Qualities that make it the favorite of instrument
builders. A neck / fingerboard joint glued with hot hide
glue isn't going to slowly bow and take a set from string
tension over the guitar's lifetime. A violin body glued
up with hide glue can be taken apart with a hot knife
and reassembled without damage despite the instrument
being hundreds of years old.

and the liquid stuff gives a long open time.

If it's fresh.

I would only use the hot stuff for veneering, and the liquid where long
open time and/or the other attributes mentioned above are needed. *For
most stuff it's Titebond II or III.

Type I is fine for anything that stays indoors.

You can substitute Knox gelatine for hot hide glue. 350
gram strength, *very* strong. Add one packet to 4 ounces
water, microwave until 150 degrees F.

On 1/8/2012 4:48 PM, dpb wrote:
On 1/8/2012 4:45 PM, Leon wrote:
...

If you are talking about Gorilla glue, certainly you are remarking about
the polyurethane glue that they manufacture. Their white wood glue OTOH
is great glue and dries clear.

Yes, I'm speaking of the polyurethanes in general and the monkey brand
in particular.

I've not used their wood glue; it is indeed a totally different product
and is likely as suitable as any other.

--


I've used a lot of it and found this...

Tight joints don't foam up and are quite strong.

And sloppy joints will foam and are very weak.

I see it as a workmanship question, not a fault of the glue.

On the other hand, yes, it does seem to have a strong desire to crawl
all the way across the bench to get on something you don't want it on.

On 1/8/2012 11:02 PM, Richard wrote:
....

I've used a lot of it and found this...

Tight joints don't foam up and are quite strong.

"It" being polyurethane glues for context.
....

I only added the comment to the OP who expressed a lack of experience
and knowledge when another respondent mention the foaming as gap-filling
that it ain't worth a damn for the purpose.

Agreed, in a tight joint it doesn't foam within the joint but any
squeeze-out certainly will and is a pita.

Every comparative test I've seen shows it's weaker than yellow PVA (not
that it's not still probably as strong or stronger than the wood along
grain but still, test results are test results... )

Frankly, I retain the opinion it's of no real value unless one really,
really must have the waterproof result or some other specific reason for
it. I detest using the stuff and it's very expensive, comparatively.

--

On 1/8/2012 11:12 PM, dpb wrote:
On 1/8/2012 11:02 PM, Richard wrote:
...

I've used a lot of it and found this...

Tight joints don't foam up and are quite strong.

"It" being polyurethane glues for context.
...

I only added the comment to the OP who expressed a lack of experience
and knowledge when another respondent mention the foaming as gap-filling
that it ain't worth a damn for the purpose.

Agreed, in a tight joint it doesn't foam within the joint but any
squeeze-out certainly will and is a pita.

Every comparative test I've seen shows it's weaker than yellow PVA (not
that it's not still probably as strong or stronger than the wood along
grain but still, test results are test results... )

Frankly, I retain the opinion it's of no real value unless one really,
really must have the waterproof result or some other specific reason for
it. I detest using the stuff and it's very expensive, comparatively.

--

Oh my.
Yes, "it" being correctly stated as you said.
Sorry about that.

Actually there is a very good use for this stuff and it's marvelous
foaming powers! It turns out to be a cheap way to fix wet core
problems in cored boat decks. Doing a traditional repair involves
removing the wet core material (plywood or balsa usually) and
reinstalling new. Then replacing the deck skin.

That's a major expense (really major!) and beyond any kind of reasonable
cost for many old boats.

But injecting polyurethane glue into the cavity has proven to be a
quick, cheap, and actually very sound repair technique.

Moisture in the old core is used by the glue to insure a good foaming
reaction. And the reaction absorbs that moisture and seals off any
remaining areas that may still be overly damp. Sealing off the oxygen
will stop the rot.

Basically this is replacing the rotted away wood core with
poured-in-place foam core.

Time will tell how well it stands the test of time.

On 1/8/2012 11:12 PM, dpb wrote:
....

Frankly, I retain the opinion it's of no real value unless one really,
really must have the waterproof result or some other specific reason for
it. I detest using the stuff and it's very expensive, comparatively.
....

I'll add the qualifier to the above that "it's of no real value for the
routine cabinet or furniture or casual woodworker unless..."

--

Thanks!

-- Jim in NC

On Jan 8, 5:31*pm, "
wrote:
Believe it or not, plain old regular white Elmers school glue works
just fine as a wood glue. *I recall Sam Maloof using it for his
rocking chairs. *The various Titebond brand glues probably work better
for outside applications and may even be better for inside too. *But
white school glue holds wood together very well. *So if you're at the
grocery store and need glue, buy the white school glue. *If you're at
Home Depot, then get the Titebond brand.

School glue is formulated to wash out of clothes, so
squeezeout should be easier to clean up.