I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!

As long as it stays in the same place on the wheel - not necessarily on the
center - when the saw is running, you are good to go.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Tue, 27 Dec 2011 09:49:50 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!

Most likely the new tires are crowned. Narrow blades are tough to
track on crowned tires. As long as the blade stays in one spot you're
good to go.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Dec 27, 1:25*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!

As long as it stays in the same place on the wheel - not necessarily on the
center - when the saw is running, you are good to go.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the response (you too, Jack) but I'm still curious as to
what is happening.

When I spin the wheels in the forward direction, the blade stays right
in the middle where I put it as I tightened the tensioning knob.
However, when I spin them in reverse direction, the blade finds a new
home and stays there, unless I spin the wheels in the forward
direction again which causes the blade to return to it's original
center position and then stay there.

I don't see how that's physically possible.

On Dec 27, 3:02*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 27, 1:25*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:



DerbyDad03 wrote:
I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!

As long as it stays in the same place on the wheel - not necessarily on the
center - when the saw is running, you are good to go.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the response (you too, Jack) but I'm still curious as to
what is happening.

When I spin the wheels in the forward direction, the blade stays right
in the middle where I put it as I tightened the tensioning knob.
However, when I spin them in reverse direction, the blade finds a new
home and stays there, unless I spin the wheels in the forward
direction again which causes the blade to return to it's original
center position and then stay there.

I don't see how that's physically possible.

As long as it is working it should be OK. I decided a long time age
that things that work aren't worth stomach acid.

BUT - My wild, mostly uninformed guess. One edge of the blade is
straight and rigid. The other edge is not - it has the cutouts that
make up the cutting edge. There might be a very small difference in
the tension from the back (smooth) edge of the blade and the front
(cutout) edge. Might be enough to cause a little comparative tracking
error between forward and backwards motion.

Now that I look at what I just wrote it is probably among the craziest
things I have ever come up with. Can anyone do better (crazier)?

RonB

On Tue, 27 Dec 2011 14:57:45 -0800, RonB wrote:

There might be a very small difference in the tension from the back
(smooth) edge of the blade and the front (cutout) edge. Might be enough
to cause a little comparative tracking error between forward and
backwards motion.

Even more likely is a burr on one side but not on the other.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Nova" wrote in message ...



Most likely the new tires are crowned. Narrow blades are tough to
track on crowned tires.

Even harder on flat ones.

Count me among those who say if it works OK don't sweat it. But my
first thought of the explanation is that when turning in opposite directions,
the blade on opposite sides of the wheel will be slacker or tighter
depending on that direction, and small differences in alignment from front
and back of one wheel compared with the other might account for where the
blade ends up running on the tires. My visualation of this is a lot
better than my explanation I'm afraid...


--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

almost sounds like one or both wheels are canted just a bit.

Can you spin the wheels with enough force to have it run a bit by
itself ? - e.g. a slow but running speed ?

Better than just rolling it around with a hand attached.

Martin

On 12/27/2011 3:02 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 27, 1:25 pm, wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!

As long as it stays in the same place on the wheel - not necessarily on the
center - when the saw is running, you are good to go.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips& tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the response (you too, Jack) but I'm still curious as to
what is happening.

When I spin the wheels in the forward direction, the blade stays right
in the middle where I put it as I tightened the tensioning knob.
However, when I spin them in reverse direction, the blade finds a new
home and stays there, unless I spin the wheels in the forward
direction again which causes the blade to return to it's original
center position and then stay there.

I don't see how that's physically possible.

On Dec 27, 10:18*pm, Martin Eastburn
wrote:
almost sounds like one or both wheels are canted just a bit.

Can you spin the wheels with enough force to have it run a bit by
itself ? - e.g. a slow but running speed ?

Better than just rolling it around with a hand attached.

Martin

On 12/27/2011 3:02 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:







On Dec 27, 1:25 pm, *wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!

As long as it stays in the same place on the wheel - not necessarily on the
center - when the saw is running, you are good to go.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips& *tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the response (you too, Jack) but I'm still curious as to
what is happening.

When I spin the wheels in the forward direction, the blade stays right
in the middle where I put it as I tightened the tensioning knob.
However, when I spin them in reverse direction, the blade finds a new
home and stays there, unless I spin the wheels in the forward
direction again which causes the blade to return to it's original
center position and then stay there.

I don't see how that's physically possible.

"Can you spin the wheels with enough force to have it run a bit by
itself?"

Yes. I just spun the wheel as hard as I could and got multiple
revolutions. In the backward direction the blade moves forward as
noted above, but when I spin it the forward direction, the blade moves
right back to the center of the tires.

As soon as I find the replacement set screw I need, I'm going to close
it up and make believe that none of this ever happened. ;-)

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:


Thanks for the response (you too, Jack) but I'm still curious as to
what is happening.

When I spin the wheels in the forward direction, the blade stays right
in the middle where I put it as I tightened the tensioning knob.
However, when I spin them in reverse direction, the blade finds a new
home and stays there, unless I spin the wheels in the forward
direction again which causes the blade to return to it's original
center position and then stay there.

I don't see how that's physically possible.

I think I'd start looking at the tires for a possible explanation. Are
you tires tight and even? Have you tried recrowning/cleaning the tires
with a bit of sandpaper to make sure everything is properly crowned and
circular?

Is there any pressure being exerted by the various guides?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 12/27/2011 11:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!


I can't help on the tracking/centering problem. I am confused as to why
you are doing what you are doing. I've always been taught to get the
blade guides and back bearing away from the blade and to get the blade
running under power on its own. Bring the back bearing to the blade
while it is running. I adjust the blade guides forward with the blade
running, but they have already been set for the width blade I am running.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G

On Dec 28, 1:03*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote :



Thanks for the response (you too, Jack) but I'm still curious as to
what is happening.

When I spin the wheels in the forward direction, the blade stays right
in the middle where I put it as I tightened the tensioning knob.
However, when I spin them in reverse direction, the blade finds a new
home and stays there, unless I spin the wheels in the forward
direction again which causes the blade to return to it's original
center position and then stay there.

I don't see how that's physically possible.

I think I'd start looking at the tires for a possible explanation. *Are
you tires tight and even? *Have you tried recrowning/cleaning the tires
with a bit of sandpaper to make sure everything is properly crowned and
circular?

Is there any pressure being exerted by the various guides?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

The tires appear to be tight and even. They are brand new urethane
tires installed with the tool provided by the vendor.

I'm not sure that I want to take sandpaper to my brand new urethane
tires. Is that something that is normally done with urethane tires?

On Dec 28, 4:59*am, DanG wrote:
On 12/27/2011 11:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I received a set of urethane tires and a couple of band saw blades for
Christmas.

I installed the tires and a 3/16" 4 tpi skip tooth blade, centering it
on the tires.

As I was adjusting the blocks, I turned the wheel and the blade moved
forward on the tires, settling about 1/3 of the way from the front of
both tires. I was rather surprised, because I knew I had turned the
wheel just a few minutes before and the blade had stayed centered.

Paying close attention to the blade this time, I turned the wheel
again and the blade moved back to the center of the tire and stayed
there. Now I was really confused.

After screwing around a little more I figured out what was happening:

If I turn the wheels *backwards*, the blade moves forward, settling,
as I said, about 1/3 of the way from the front of both tires. As soon
as I turn the wheels in the right direction, the blade moves back to
the center of the tires and stays there.

Does anyone know why this happens? I checked the alignment of the face
of the wheels and they appear to be aligned correctly, so I don't
think I'm dealing with a tilted wheel.

I have not turned the saw on yet, since I'm still cleaning it and
making adjustments, but I'm curious about why the blade would do that
and if I should be concerned.

Thanks!

I can't help on the tracking/centering problem. *I am confused as to why
you are doing what you are doing. *I've always been taught to get the
blade guides and back bearing away from the blade and to get the blade
running under power on its own. *Bring the back bearing to the blade
while it is running. *I adjust the blade guides forward with the blade
running, but they have already been set for the width blade I am running.

--

___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't know what kind of band saw and/or guides you have, but I
wouldn't want to adjust my guides with the blade running.

Maybe the back bearing, but not the side guide blocks. It's hard
enough to get them to hold their position while tightening the cap
screws with the saw off, especially the ones below the table.

I always adjust them as close as possible while spinning the wheels by
hand, ensuring that I get at least a couple of full revolutions of the
blade.

Look at page 13 and 14 of this manual. Would you loosen the cap screws
to adjust the guides with the saw running, especially knowing that
they are prone to shifting as the cap screws are being tightened?

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0811258.pdf

DerbyDad03 wrote:


The tires appear to be tight and even. They are brand new urethane
tires installed with the tool provided by the vendor.

I'm not sure that I want to take sandpaper to my brand new urethane
tires. Is that something that is normally done with urethane tires?

I don't blame you for not wanting to grind down your tires - especially
since they work perfectly in one orientation. Rather, I'd suggest you not
continue to be so hung up on why they don't work the other way. Hell -
you've got them working perfectly - what more do you want?

Have you called the manufacturer or the distributor to ask these questions?

Why are you trying to fix a machine that is not broken?

--

-Mike-

On Dec 28, 3:18*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

The tires appear to be tight and even. They are brand new urethane
tires installed with the tool provided by the vendor.

I'm not sure that I want to take sandpaper to my brand new urethane
tires. Is that something that is normally done with urethane tires?

I don't blame you for not wanting to grind down your tires - especially
since they work perfectly in one orientation. *Rather, I'd suggest you not
continue to be so hung up on why they don't work the other way. *Hell -
you've got them working perfectly - what more do you want?

Have you called the manufacturer or the distributor to ask these questions?

Why are you trying to fix a machine that is not broken?

--

-Mike-


All I ever said was that I was "curious". I'm not trying to fix
anything, especially since many of you have already said that if the
saw works, leave it alone.

Perhaps you missed the post in which I said:

"As soon as I find the replacement set screw I need, I'm going to
close it up and make believe that none of this ever happened."

As far as "hung up", I'm not.

I asked a question and if people are going to be kind enough to
respond, I'm going to be polite enough to respond back.

When it was suggested that I sand down my tires, I simply asked if
sanding urethane tires was a normal practice. I've never had urethane
tires before, so I think I'm justified in asking. I just might learn
something.

When someone asked why I was adjusting my guides without the blades
running, I simply responded that I don't think I'd want to do that on
my saw.

When (if) someone else offers a suggestion as to the cause or asks a
question about my saw, I'll probably respond to them too.

Larry Kraus wrote:
Perhaps the shape and/or set of the teeth cause the blade to track
differently depending on rotation direction.

That sounds like a pretty logical reason to me...the teeth moveing in
different directions.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Dec 28, 8:19*pm, Larry Kraus wrote:
Perhaps the shape and/or set of the teeth cause the blade to track
differently depending on rotation direction. If you were really
curious you could back the guides off, put the blade on backwards, and
give it a spin in both directions. *Personally, I like your earlier
statement:
"As soon as I find the replacement set screw I need, I'm going to
close it up and make believe that none of this ever happened."

The blade only works in one direction, so it does not matter how it
tracks going backward.

That makes sense. Thanks.

Still looking for that set screw. :-)

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

On Dec 28, 1:03*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I think I'd start looking at the tires for a possible explanation.
*Are you tires tight and even? *Have you tried recrowning/cleaning
the tires with a bit of sandpaper to make sure everything is properly
crowned and circular?

Is there any pressure being exerted by the various guides?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

The tires appear to be tight and even. They are brand new urethane
tires installed with the tool provided by the vendor.

I'm not sure that I want to take sandpaper to my brand new urethane
tires. Is that something that is normally done with urethane tires?

I'm just curious myself...

Sanding the tires was part of a bandsaw tuneup suggested in a book, and
it does help with certain conditions such as vibration. However, new
tires probably don't need any adjustments, especially if everything runs
fine in the correct direction.

Puckdropper

--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Dec 29, 2:12*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote :





On Dec 28, 1:03*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I think I'd start looking at the tires for a possible explanation.
*Are you tires tight and even? *Have you tried recrowning/cleaning
the tires with a bit of sandpaper to make sure everything is properly
crowned and circular?

Is there any pressure being exerted by the various guides?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

The tires appear to be tight and even. They are brand new urethane
tires installed with the tool provided by the vendor.

I'm not sure that I want to take sandpaper to my brand new urethane
tires. Is that something that is normally done with urethane tires?

I'm just curious myself...

Sanding the tires was part of a bandsaw tuneup suggested in a book, and
it does help with certain conditions such as vibration. *However, new
tires probably don't need any adjustments, especially if everything runs
fine in the correct direction.

Puckdropper

--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Did the book differentiate between rubber tires and eurethane tires
when they were suggesting that they be sanded?

I'm new to the eurethane tire world, having stumbled across them while
looking for information on band-saw blades. Then I found a set of
(new) eurethane tires on eBay for my Craftsman band saw which were
cheaper than what Sears wants for rubber ones. SWMBO offered to buy
them for me for Christmas, so who was I to argue.

Little did I know that a week later Sears would announce the closure
of 120 stores. I'm feeling kind of guilty. ;-)

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

On Dec 29, 2:12*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote
innews:e50e2846-fa4e-4116-abd2-e5
:





On Dec 28, 1:03*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
wrote:

I think I'd start looking at the tires for a possible explanation.
*Are you tires tight and even? *Have you tried recrowning/cleaning
the tires with a bit of sandpaper to make sure everything is
properly crowned and circular?

Is there any pressure being exerted by the various guides?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

The tires appear to be tight and even. They are brand new urethane
tires installed with the tool provided by the vendor.

I'm not sure that I want to take sandpaper to my brand new urethane
tires. Is that something that is normally done with urethane tires?

I'm just curious myself...

Sanding the tires was part of a bandsaw tuneup suggested in a book,
and it does help with certain conditions such as vibration. *However,
new tires probably don't need any adjustments, especially if
everything runs fine in the correct direction.

Puckdropper

--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Did the book differentiate between rubber tires and eurethane tires
when they were suggesting that they be sanded?

I'm new to the eurethane tire world, having stumbled across them while
looking for information on band-saw blades. Then I found a set of
(new) eurethane tires on eBay for my Craftsman band saw which were
cheaper than what Sears wants for rubber ones. SWMBO offered to buy
them for me for Christmas, so who was I to argue.

Little did I know that a week later Sears would announce the closure
of 120 stores. I'm feeling kind of guilty. ;-)

I don't remember, and unfortunately the book and I are miles apart right
now. The one I remember it from was Duginske's Bandsaw Handbook
published in the late '80's.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.