Can anyone recommend a good blade for cutting stainlees steel,brass and
other atypical metals? I need one for a craftsman band saw and it would
have to be 80" in length.

Rich

Can anyone recommend a good blade for cutting stainlees steel,brass and
other atypical metals? I need one for a craftsman band saw and it would
have to be 80" in length.

Rich
First thiings first - is it a *metal* cutting bandsaw???? The *wood*
cutting bandsaw I have from Sears uses an 80" blade. Wood cutting
bandsaws run way too fast for metal.
Ken.

Ken Sterling wrote:

First thiings first - is it a *metal* cutting bandsaw???? The *wood*
cutting bandsaw I have from Sears uses an 80" blade. Wood cutting
bandsaws run way too fast for metal.
Ken.

No, it's a wood-cutting bandsaew, but I was considering using a variac
to decrease the cutting speed. My saw uses the same 80" blades. I'm
able to cut aluminum like butter using my skip-tooth blade.

Rich

I have the same saw and ended up ordering my blades from www.tufftooth.com I
looked in a lot of places and these were the best prices and good selection
of blades. I order a dozen blades and stuck the website address on the side
of my saw so I don't forget.

"rich brenz" wrote in message
...
Ken Sterling wrote:

First thiings first - is it a *metal* cutting bandsaw???? The *wood*
cutting bandsaw I have from Sears uses an 80" blade. Wood cutting
bandsaws run way too fast for metal.
Ken.

No, it's a wood-cutting bandsaew, but I was considering using a variac
to decrease the cutting speed. My saw uses the same 80" blades. I'm
able to cut aluminum like butter using my skip-tooth blade.

Rich

If your motor on the bandsaw is the typical induction motor,
a variac will not do you any good. The induction motor locks
to the frequency of the line -- changing the voltage will only
cause it to drop out of lock with a lighter load and stall.
You need to either put in a jackshaft with a pulley reduction
system or something like that to slow the saw down.

mikey

No, it's a wood-cutting bandsaew, but I was considering using a variac
to decrease the cutting speed. My saw uses the same 80" blades. I'm
able to cut aluminum like butter using my skip-tooth blade.

There is a HUGE difference between cutting aluminum and stainless.
You will have to slow that saw down to a crawl to cut SS. Typical
wood saws run 3000FPS. You need less than 100 and probably more
like 50 for SS. You will also need some kind of lube. I used a big
wax stick sold for this purpose.

Second, are you cutting thick blocks or thin sheet? The TPI
will depend on thickness. A course blade on thin sheet will strip
all the teeth off the blade and bend the stock too.

chuck

I have a related question. I have an old Delta three wheel saw. The
wheels are pretty small. I keep breaking the blades I find in the store-
I suspect they are not really intended to bend around such a small
radius. I guess I should get real Delta blades, but, do they still make
blades for their old three-wheel saws?

I have a related question. I have an old Delta three wheel saw. The
wheels are pretty small. I keep breaking the blades I find in the store-
I suspect they are not really intended to bend around such a small
radius. I guess I should get real Delta blades, but, do they still make
blades for their old three-wheel saws?
Question here would be if the blades are breaking at the welded joint?
If so, take a new blade and anneal the welded joint a bit and let it
cool, then install and try it out. Should be better.
Ken.

In article ,
says...
I have a related question. I have an old Delta three wheel saw. The
wheels are pretty small. I keep breaking the blades I find in the store-
I suspect they are not really intended to bend around such a small
radius. I guess I should get real Delta blades, but, do they still make
blades for their old three-wheel saws?


How thick are the blades you've been getting? .025 gauge is
probably most common, but thinner blades are available. For
example...

http://www.olsonsaw.com/wb.html

Ned Simmons