I have a delta 14" bandsaw with riser blocks. For the last couple of
months I couldnt cut a straight line to save my life. Read all the post
and couldnt come up with an answer. But I am proud to say I am cutting
straight and true now. I did three things. the first was to check the
coplane on the wheels. I got these line up like they show. I set the
tension on the blade to 11000 lbs its a 1/4 inch. I used the inturra
design gage which works very well. I also replaced the runner on the
wheels. after that I cut a board and guess what it was as crocked as a
dogs hind leg. what was needed to make this work right. I pulled out an
old bandsaw book I had and started reading. Bam at one oclock in the
morning I saw what I was doing wrong. Even though I did the coplaning
as directed I had never been told to check it after you put the tension
on the blade. I went down to the workshop and check it under tension
and sure enough it was out aout 1/4 inch after the tension was put on
the blade. I did the adjustment to bring the wheel back to coplane and
it now cuts straight as an arrow. Hope this helps someone else.

"sdppm" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a delta 14" bandsaw with riser blocks. For the last couple of
months I couldnt cut a straight line to save my life. Read all the post
and couldnt come up with an answer. But I am proud to say I am cutting
straight and true now. I did three things. the first was to check the
coplane on the wheels. I got these line up like they show. I set the
tension on the blade to 11000 lbs its a 1/4 inch. I used the inturra
design gage which works very well. I also replaced the runner on the
wheels. after that I cut a board and guess what it was as crocked as a
dogs hind leg. what was needed to make this work right. I pulled out an
old bandsaw book I had and started reading. Bam at one oclock in the
morning I saw what I was doing wrong. Even though I did the coplaning
as directed I had never been told to check it after you put the tension
on the blade. I went down to the workshop and check it under tension
and sure enough it was out aout 1/4 inch after the tension was put on
the blade. I did the adjustment to bring the wheel back to coplane and
it now cuts straight as an arrow. Hope this helps someone else.


If you use a wider blade with more tension will you have to adjust again?
Or is the biggest difference when the wheels are loaded vs. unloaded?

"sdppm" wrote in message

and sure enough it was out aout 1/4 inch after the tension was put on
the blade. I did the adjustment to bring the wheel back to coplane and
it now cuts straight as an arrow. Hope this helps someone else.


Did you happen to notice if the blade was tracking in the center of the
wheel under tension? That is usually a dead give-away.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

Dead give away for what?

yes you will, once you start checking and use the tension gage its less
than a minute to set up. And your running true again

The blade is now tracking in the center

"sdppm" wrote in message
oups.com...
yes you will, once you start checking and use the tension gage its less
than a minute to set up. And your running true again

Oh, Ok, I was under the impression that you were having to adjust the bottom
wheel.

"arw01" wrote in message

Dead give away for what?


See subject line ...


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

Thank you Thank you. I have struggled with the same. I just went and
checked mine because I set it without tension and sure enough with a
blade and tension it was about 1/4" off. Luckily I only had to pull
two roll pins and re-drill some holes to fix the problem. I now have
an extra set of holes but it's worth it to have it cut straight.I still
have to use a little bit of lead to cut a straight line, but maybe a
new set of tires will fix that. Thanks again. It sure makes sense to
check it while under tension, but none of the books I read ever said
that. Happy Sawdust bc
PS I found that once I got it to tension, increasing the tension, as
you would with a wider blade, made some minor changes in wheel tilt,
but were easily corrected with the adjustment knob.

You said you drilled some holes, where and for what????