My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

On 12/17/11 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

Yes.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/17/11 9:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/17/11 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

Yes.


Oops. The 73" should work fine.
It should only account for several turns of the tension knob.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

You should be ok with the 73" blade. Depending on how the
tension is measured on your saw, you may have to adjust the
indicator to point 3/16" higher than the desired tension.
Art

On 12/17/11 10:04 PM, Artemus wrote:
wrote in message
...
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

You should be ok with the 73" blade. Depending on how the
tension is measured on your saw, you may have to adjust the
indicator to point 3/16" higher than the desired tension.
Art


Are tension indicators indexed for inches or just some ambiguous markings?
Point being... if the markings are actually 16ths of an inch, then the
tension required to make the difference needed to take up the slack of
an extra 3/8" blade length would be much less.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Dec 17, 11:04*pm, "Artemus" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...

My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

You should be ok with the 73" blade. *Depending on how the
tension is measured on your saw, you may have to adjust the
indicator to point 3/16" higher than the desired tension.
Art

Thanks! (to all)

On Dec 17, 11:13*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/17/11 10:04 PM, Artemus wrote:









*wrote in message
....
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

You should be ok with the 73" blade. *Depending on how the
tension is measured on your saw, you may have to adjust the
indicator to point 3/16" higher than the desired tension.
Art

Are tension indicators indexed for inches or just some ambiguous markings?
Point being... if the markings are actually 16ths of an inch, then the
tension required to make the difference needed to take up the slack of
an extra 3/8" blade length would be much less.

--

* -MIKE-


In my case, I think it's pretty much ambiguous.

There's a big washer on the tension shaft and a line on the housing
with the words Tension Set next to it. That's the extent of the
markings.

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

On 12/17/11 10:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 17, 11:13 pm, wrote:
On 12/17/11 10:04 PM, Artemus wrote:









wrote in message
...
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

You should be ok with the 73" blade. Depending on how the
tension is measured on your saw, you may have to adjust the
indicator to point 3/16" higher than the desired tension.
Art

Are tension indicators indexed for inches or just some ambiguous markings?
Point being... if the markings are actually 16ths of an inch, then the
tension required to make the difference needed to take up the slack of
an extra 3/8" blade length would be much less.

--

-MIKE-


In my case, I think it's pretty much ambiguous.

There's a big washer on the tension shaft and a line on the housing
with the words Tension Set next to it. That's the extent of the
markings.

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

1/4" deflection with how many pounds of force? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Dec 18, 12:07*am, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/17/11 10:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:









On Dec 17, 11:13 pm, *wrote:
On 12/17/11 10:04 PM, Artemus wrote:

* *wrote in message
....
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

You should be ok with the 73" blade. *Depending on how the
tension is measured on your saw, you may have to adjust the
indicator to point 3/16" higher than the desired tension.
Art

Are tension indicators indexed for inches or just some ambiguous markings?
Point being... if the markings are actually 16ths of an inch, then the
tension required to make the difference needed to take up the slack of
an extra 3/8" blade length would be much less.

--

* *-MIKE-

In my case, I think it's pretty much ambiguous.

There's a big washer on the tension shaft and a line on the housing
with the words Tension Set next to it. That's the extent of the
markings.

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

1/4" deflection with how many pounds of force? * :-)

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

I figure someone would ask that. :-)

The presenter said something to the effect of "with a reasonable
amount of pressure, like pushing with your finger until the tip turns
white."

I'm familiar with this technique because I used to check the tension
of the steering cables on my kid's Soap Box Derby cars by pulling the
cables sideways, looking for a specific amount of deflection. When
people would see me doing it while holding my tape measure against the
side of the car they always wondered what the heck I was doing. When
I'd explain it to them and then let them try it, they really liked the
technique. You just had to get the feel for that "reasonable" amount
of pulling tension.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message ...

On 12/17/11 10:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 17, 11:13 pm, wrote:
On 12/17/11 10:04 PM, Artemus wrote:









wrote in message
...
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

You should be ok with the 73" blade. Depending on how the
tension is measured on your saw, you may have to adjust the
indicator to point 3/16" higher than the desired tension.
Art

Are tension indicators indexed for inches or just some ambiguous
markings?
Point being... if the markings are actually 16ths of an inch, then the
tension required to make the difference needed to take up the slack of
an extra 3/8" blade length would be much less.

--

-MIKE-


In my case, I think it's pretty much ambiguous.

There's a big washer on the tension shaft and a line on the housing
with the words Tension Set next to it. That's the extent of the
markings.

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

1/4" deflection with how many pounds of force? :-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


It will also be different with a riser block and with different blade
widths.

DerbyDad03 wrote:

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

Another way - which I prefer - is to tension it to the point that it no
longer flutters.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 12/18/2011 6:25 AM, dadiOH wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

Another way - which I prefer - is to tension it to the point that it no
longer flutters.



I agree, but I use the plucked sound as a point of beginning. C3 Bflat
is not bad for beginning and tighten until the blade runs true. This
works no matter which blade you use.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G

On 12/18/2011 10:14 AM, DanG wrote:
On 12/18/2011 6:25 AM, dadiOH wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

Another way - which I prefer - is to tension it to the point that it no
longer flutters.



I agree, but I use the plucked sound as a point of beginning. C3 Bflat
is not bad for beginning and tighten until the blade runs true. This
works no matter which blade you use.

I knew you were going to say that. (a fellow Barbershopper)(Bass)

On 12/17/2011 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

NO!
Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is resistance
on the upper wheel so you do not want to over tension the blade, you use
the same blade tension on a longer blade as you do a shorter blade.

The question here is if you can fit a 73" blade in place of the 72 5/8".
Maybe. Mount your regular blade and tighten the tension until there is
a small amount of tension. Mark the location height of the upper wheel.
Remove the blade and relocate the upper wheel to the previously marked
position. Now see if you can raise the upper wheel 1/2 of the difference
in length of the two blades. If you can raise it at leas hald that
distance the longer blade should work. And remember just because the
blade is longer you do not add more tension.

On 12/18/2011 9:41 AM, Chuck wrote:
On 12/18/2011 10:14 AM, DanG wrote:
On 12/18/2011 6:25 AM, dadiOH wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

Another way - which I prefer - is to tension it to the point that it no
longer flutters.



I agree, but I use the plucked sound as a point of beginning. C3 Bflat
is not bad for beginning and tighten until the blade runs true. This
works no matter which blade you use.

I knew you were going to say that. (a fellow Barbershopper)(Bass)


Basses are a dime a dozen. I'm one also. OKC, OK. You?

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G

I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

I googled 75 5/8 it appears that many places are selling the correct
length blades. Are you not able to purchase locally?

On 12/18/2011 01:11 PM, Michael Kenefick wrote:
I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

On Dec 18, 1:11*pm, Michael Kenefick wrote:
I suspect not. *My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". *I bought a Sears 56
3/4". *It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:







My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

Your length difference was 5/8", mine is only 3/8".

I just took the blade off my saw and was able to adjust the tension
knob such that the indicator was more than a 1/2" beyond it's normal
setting.

I won't need that much with a blade that's only 3/8" longer than the
standard.

On Dec 18, 10:57*am, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 12/17/2011 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

NO!
Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is resistance
on the upper wheel so you do not want to over tension the blade, you use
the same blade tension on a longer blade as you do a shorter blade.

The question here is if you can fit a 73" blade in place of the 72 5/8".
Maybe. *Mount your regular blade and tighten the tension until there is
a small amount of tension. *Mark the location height of the upper wheel..
Remove the blade and relocate the upper wheel to the previously marked
position. Now see if you can raise the upper wheel 1/2 of the difference
in length of the two blades. *If you can raise it at leas hald that
distance the longer blade should work. *And remember just because the
blade is longer you do not add more tension.

"Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is
resistance on the upper wheel".

As I posted earlier, an my band saw there's a big washer on the
tension shaft and a line on the housing with the words Tension Set
next to it.

As soon as you turn the tension knob to move the wheel up or down, the
washer moves with the wheel, even with no blade installed.

On 12/18/2011 12:28 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 18, 10:57 am, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 12/17/2011 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

NO!
Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is resistance
on the upper wheel so you do not want to over tension the blade, you use
the same blade tension on a longer blade as you do a shorter blade.

The question here is if you can fit a 73" blade in place of the 72 5/8".
Maybe. Mount your regular blade and tighten the tension until there is
a small amount of tension. Mark the location height of the upper wheel.
Remove the blade and relocate the upper wheel to the previously marked
position. Now see if you can raise the upper wheel 1/2 of the difference
in length of the two blades. If you can raise it at leas hald that
distance the longer blade should work. And remember just because the
blade is longer you do not add more tension.

"Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is
resistance on the upper wheel".

As I posted earlier, an my band saw there's a big washer on the
tension shaft and a line on the housing with the words Tension Set
next to it.

As soon as you turn the tension knob to move the wheel up or down, the
washer moves with the wheel, even with no blade installed.


Ohhhhh! Then refer to my second part to see if the longer blade will fit.

On 12/18/2011 12:55 PM, DanG wrote:
On 12/18/2011 9:41 AM, Chuck wrote:
On 12/18/2011 10:14 AM, DanG wrote:
On 12/18/2011 6:25 AM, dadiOH wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

Another way - which I prefer - is to tension it to the point that it no
longer flutters.



I agree, but I use the plucked sound as a point of beginning. C3 Bflat
is not bad for beginning and tighten until the blade runs true. This
works no matter which blade you use.

I knew you were going to say that. (a fellow Barbershopper)(Bass)


Basses are a dime a dozen. I'm one also. OKC, OK. You?


Palm Beach Coastmen, Fl.

On Dec 18, 1:18*pm, Michael Kenefick wrote:
I googled 75 5/8 it appears that many places are selling the correct
length blades. *Are you not able to purchase locally?

On 12/18/2011 01:11 PM, Michael Kenefick wrote:







I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

Thanks.

umm...that would be 72 5/8", not 75 5/8".

Yes, they too are probably available, and I know that I can have them
made at a local Saw and Knife shop.

However, since the Woodslicer blades have been given good reviews in
this forum, and the 73" should fit, I'm going to give them a try.

On Dec 18, 10:14*am, DanG wrote:
On 12/18/2011 6:25 AM, dadiOH wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

Another way - which I prefer - is to tension it to the point that it no
longer flutters.

I agree, but I use the plucked sound as a point of beginning. *C3 Bflat
is not bad for beginning and tighten until the blade runs true. *This
works no matter which blade you use.

--

___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G

And the notes to remember when crossing the street?

C-sharp or B-flat

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 18, 10:14 am, wrote:
On 12/18/2011 6:25 AM, dadiOH wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

However, I was watching a band saw tune up video and the presenter
said that the correct tension for a band saw blade was about a 1/4"
deflection with the maximum amount of blade showing.

Another way - which I prefer - is to tension it to the point that it no
longer flutters.

I agree, but I use the plucked sound as a point of beginning. C3 Bflat
is not bad for beginning and tighten until the blade runs true. This
works no matter which blade you use.

--

___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G

And the notes to remember when crossing the street?

C-sharp or B-flat

I like that one.

--
Gerald Ross

It's kind of fun to do the impossible.

On 12/18/11 12:11 PM, Michael Kenefick wrote:
I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio


Big difference between the lengths of those blades.
Also, 5/8" difference on a 56" blade would probably equate to over an
inch difference on a 73" blade. I would also guess that the distance of
travel of the the tensioner on your saw is 1/4 to 1/3 the distance of a
73" length saw.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message ...

I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Make it easy on yourself. Do what I and every other professional I know does
when needing a band saw blade. Go down to your local industrial supply, tell
them what you want and they will take it off the coil, cut it to length and
weld it together. There, exactly what you want. Why make it so hard?

On Dec 18, 8:13*pm, "CW" wrote:
"Michael Kenefick" *wrote in ...

I suspect not. *My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". *I bought a Sears 56
3/4". *It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.

Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?

Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?

The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Make it easy on yourself. Do what I and every other professional I know does
when needing a band saw blade. Go down to your local industrial supply, tell
them what you want and they will take it off the coil, cut it to length and
weld it together. There, exactly what you want. *Why make it so hard?

Been there, done that.

Gotta admit though...posting my question in this forum and then
ordering a couple of blades online really wasn't that hard. ;-)

"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message ...

I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

LARRY!!!
This is the sort of thing that creates tension in me.

Max

On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 19:20:13 -0700, "Max"
wrote:

"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message ...

I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

LARRY!!!
This is the sort of thing that creates tension in me.

Triple exclamation points do that to me, too, Max.
A single mispeld word grates less.

--
If you're trying to take a roomful of people by
surprise, it's a lot easier to hit your targets
if you don't yell going through the door.
-- Lois McMaster Bujold

On 12/18/2011 11:29 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 19:20:13 -0700,
wrote:

"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message ...

I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

LARRY!!!
This is the sort of thing that creates tension in me.

Triple exclamation points do that to me, too, Max.
A single mispeld word grates less.

--


Geez Larry !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;~O

On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 06:43:09 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2011 11:29 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 19:20:13 -0700,
wrote:

"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message ...

I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.

Mike in Ohio

LARRY!!!
This is the sort of thing that creates tension in me.

Triple exclamation points do that to me, too, Max.
A single mispeld word grates less.

--


Geez Larry !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;~O

That got my tension. Pfffffffffffffffft!

--
If you're trying to take a roomful of people by
surprise, it's a lot easier to hit your targets
if you don't yell going through the door.
-- Lois McMaster Bujold

"Larry Jaques" wrote

"Max" wrote:


LARRY!!!
This is the sort of thing that creates tension in me.

Triple exclamation points do that to me, too, Max.
A single mispeld word grates less.


I hope you realize that you just scraped your finger nails across the black
board.

Max

On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 09:22:22 -0700, "Max"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote

"Max" wrote:


LARRY!!!
This is the sort of thing that creates tension in me.

Triple exclamation points do that to me, too, Max.
A single mispeld word grates less.


I hope you realize that you just scraped your finger nails across the black
board.

GOTCHA! See how it feels, bubba? titter

--
If you're trying to take a roomful of people by
surprise, it's a lot easier to hit your targets
if you don't yell going through the door.
-- Lois McMaster Bujold