While preparing some parts for assembly I applied a Watco Oil finish
to the parts.
I forgot that some surfaces must have additional parts glued to them
later in the assembly.
I neglected to cover these surfaces before oiling them.
My questions are
1 - how will these oiled surfaces accept glue, Titebond, when it is
applied?
2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so it
will accept the glue?
3 - If there is no solution to questions 1 or 2 what other type of
glue can I use?
Thanks for any and all help.

On 11/21/2011 6:45 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
While preparing some parts for assembly I applied a Watco Oil finish
to the parts.
I forgot that some surfaces must have additional parts glued to them
later in the assembly.
I neglected to cover these surfaces before oiling them.
My questions are
1 - how will these oiled surfaces accept glue, Titebond, when it is
applied?
2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so it
will accept the glue?
3 - If there is no solution to questions 1 or 2 what other type of
glue can I use?
Thanks for any and all help.

Is this Watco Danish Oil? I'm pretty sure the main ingredient in this product
is simply (boiled?) linseed oil (the same carrier used in artist's oil paints)
and that stuff dries quite slowly. As such, if one were to assume that you
could sand it off and get a good glue-able surface (I have no idea whether this
is true), I would suggest you make *sure* it's totally cured first. I'd test
this by saturating a small section of paper or a paper towel and laying it out
to dry (FLAT!). You'll find it will probably take a good week for it really
dry out; once your test piece is dry you can probably assume your workpiece is
too, and only then would I try to sand the surface. Ideally, I would test this
whole scenario on a piece of scrap wood to see if you can *really* get a good
surface and if the glue joint will hold under pressure. Try to break the
joint; if it comes apart only at the glue line then you probably have your
answer...

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"trvlnmny" wrote:

While preparing some parts for assembly I applied a Watco Oil finish
to the parts.
I forgot that some surfaces must have additional parts glued to them
later in the assembly.
I neglected to cover these surfaces before oiling them.
My questions are
1 - how will these oiled surfaces accept glue, Titebond, when it is
applied?
2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so
it
will accept the glue?
3 - If there is no solution to questions 1 or 2 what other type of
glue can I use?
Thanks for any and all help.
----------------------------------------
I'd wait a MONTH for the Watco Oil to fully cure, then scrape the
joints in question with a scraper that can be fabricated from any
sharp blade or cabinet scraper.

I would NOT use sandpaper.

Have fun.

Lew

You could always wait for it to dry, then use epoxy.
I think titebond won't like bonding with an oiled surface, but epoxy
won't care. Just hit the surface with acetone first.

On 11/21/2011 8:02 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 11/21/2011 6:45 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
While preparing some parts for assembly I applied a Watco Oil finish
to the parts.
I forgot that some surfaces must have additional parts glued to them
later in the assembly.
I neglected to cover these surfaces before oiling them.
My questions are
1 - how will these oiled surfaces accept glue, Titebond, when it is
applied?
2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so it
will accept the glue?
3 - If there is no solution to questions 1 or 2 what other type of
glue can I use?
Thanks for any and all help.

Is this Watco Danish Oil? I'm pretty sure the main ingredient in this
product is simply (boiled?) linseed oil (the same carrier used in
artist's oil paints) and that stuff dries quite slowly. As such, if one
were to assume that you could sand it off and get a good glue-able
surface (I have no idea whether this is true), I would suggest you make
*sure* it's totally cured first. I'd test this by saturating a small
section of paper or a paper towel and laying it out to dry (FLAT!).
You'll find it will probably take a good week for it really dry out;
once your test piece is dry you can probably assume your workpiece is
too, and only then would I try to sand the surface. Ideally, I would
test this whole scenario on a piece of scrap wood to see if you can
*really* get a good surface and if the glue joint will hold under
pressure. Try to break the joint; if it comes apart only at the glue
line then you probably have your answer...

top-posting corrected

On 11/21/2011 7:29 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
On 11/21/2011 8:02 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 11/21/2011 6:45 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
While preparing some parts for assembly I applied a Watco Oil finish
to the parts.
I forgot that some surfaces must have additional parts glued to them
later in the assembly.
I neglected to cover these surfaces before oiling them.
My questions are
1 - how will these oiled surfaces accept glue, Titebond, when it is
applied?
2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so it
will accept the glue?
3 - If there is no solution to questions 1 or 2 what other type of
glue can I use?
Thanks for any and all help.

Is this Watco Danish Oil? I'm pretty sure the main ingredient in this
product is simply (boiled?) linseed oil (the same carrier used in
artist's oil paints) and that stuff dries quite slowly. As such, if one
were to assume that you could sand it off and get a good glue-able
surface (I have no idea whether this is true), I would suggest you make
*sure* it's totally cured first. I'd test this by saturating a small
section of paper or a paper towel and laying it out to dry (FLAT!).
You'll find it will probably take a good week for it really dry out;
once your test piece is dry you can probably assume your workpiece is
too, and only then would I try to sand the surface. Ideally, I would
test this whole scenario on a piece of scrap wood to see if you can
*really* get a good surface and if the glue joint will hold under
pressure. Try to break the joint; if it comes apart only at the glue
line then you probably have your answer...

You could always wait for it to dry, then use epoxy.
I think titebond won't like bonding with an oiled surface, but epoxy won't
care. Just hit the surface with acetone first.

What you are suggesting is a common method for gluing inherently oily wood
(like Cocobolo), which is not what the OP is dealing with. The "oil" used in a
product like Watco Danish Oil is designed to cure, and it will leave a thin
film finish that will act as a barrier separating *any* glue (epoxy included)
from the wood. It will not have the same properties as the natural
(non-curing) oils found in most woods, and is not likely to be affected in the
same way by solvents. Acetone will indeed "draw out" the non-curing oils in
some wood (and it will do the same thing to your skin!), at least temporarily,
and long enough for glue to adhere to the surface, but the most that acetone is
going to do to cured linseed oil is (disclaimer: I am not scientist) damage
and weaken it at the molecular level; I don't think it's going to "wick the oil
away" in any fashion close to what you're suggesting. You might get slightly
better results with this technique if the Watco is not yet cured, but I would
use turpentine or mineral spirits first (both readily dissolve linseed oil),
then follow up with acetone or lacquer thinner.

Having been an "artist" in my younger days I worked with oil colors a lot (and
of course, later on as a woodworker). I know the smell of linseed oil a mile
away, and I'm well acquainted with how it behaves. I don't completely dismiss
the suggestion to try to remove it with the correct solvents, but I think I'd
still follow up by sanding (or as Lew suggests, scraping) the surface after
giving it plenty of time to cure.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

trvlnmny wrote:
While preparing some parts for assembly I applied a Watco Oil finish
to the parts.
I forgot that some surfaces must have additional parts glued to them
later in the assembly.
I neglected to cover these surfaces before oiling them.
My questions are
1 - how will these oiled surfaces accept glue, Titebond, when it is
applied?
2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so it
will accept the glue?
3 - If there is no solution to questions 1 or 2 what other type of
glue can I use?
Thanks for any and all help.

Watco is linseed oil plus a bit of varnish. Once dry, you could glue stuff
to it but it won't stick well. If you want it to stick well, you have to get
rid of enough of the Watco so that the wood is absorbent. As Lew said,
scrape it. Another possibility - untried by me - is lacquer thinner as it
is pretty good at destroying finishes.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Mon, 21 Nov 2011 16:45:28 -0800 (PST), trvlnmny
wrote:

While preparing some parts for assembly I applied a Watco Oil finish
to the parts.
I forgot that some surfaces must have additional parts glued to them
later in the assembly.
I neglected to cover these surfaces before oiling them.
My questions are
1 - how will these oiled surfaces accept glue, Titebond, when it is
applied?

They won't.


2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so it
will accept the glue?

I know of no remedy.


3 - If there is no solution to questions 1 or 2 what other type of
glue can I use?

Not that I've ever heard of.


Thanks for any and all help.

Chances are good that you're **** outta luck, dude. If you can take
3/32 of an inch of wood away from each of the mating surfaces, you
might be able to fix it. What are you making? if it's mortise and
tenon joints, you'll have to start all over.

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Nov 2011 16:45:28 -0800 (PST), trvlnmny
wrote:


2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so
it will accept the glue?

I know of no remedy.


I would have said the same thing Larry, had it not been for a project about
a month ago. I had to repair on old piece of **** that is now called an
antique, because it's an OLD piece of ****. It had been varnished, so I
took a 3M pad and some alcohol and worked on the edges where I had to do
some glueing - or resort to some other technique. Gave it a good scrub with
the 3M pad soaked in alcohol and glued it up. Used Titebone II. Held like
a new piece of wood. I stressed it hard to test it, to see if it would fail
and it wouldn't. Might be worth the effort on the OP's project. The good
part about "oils" today is that they're often not oil at all, but mostly
varnish. Even if they are oil - or if they're varnish, a good alcohol scrub
can do a lot as a solvent and restore a glueable surface.


--

-Mike-

On Monday, November 21, 2011 4:45:28 PM UTC-8, trvlnmny wrote:
While preparing some parts for assembly I applied a Watco Oil finish
to the parts.
I forgot that some surfaces must have additional parts glued to them

1 - how will these oiled surfaces accept glue, Titebond, when it is
applied?
Not going to work well.
2 - If it will not accept it how can i prepare the oiled surface so it
will accept the glue?

The 'oil' in question is something like boiled linseed oil (a polymerizing
finish), so paint remover will take it off. I'd use a bit of some
non-water-cleanup type, with ventilation. The water-cleanup
variant will work, but require sa day or so of dryout before it's ready for
glueing. Sanding or scraping are possible, but oil DOES penetrate,
so it could take some wood removal.