So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

On 11/2/2011 2:37 PM, Paul wrote:
So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some
mineral spirits? Thanks.


Paint thinner is mineral spirits, mineral spirits is not paint thinner.

Paint thinner is mineral spirits with an ingredient to slow evaporation.

If you use paint thinner cure time might be exceptionally long.

If you deviate from the instructions, do not experiment on your project,
experiment on scraps.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 11/2/2011 2:37 PM, Paul wrote:
So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some
mineral spirits? Thanks.


Paint thinner is mineral spirits, mineral spirits is not paint thinner.

Paint thinner is mineral spirits with an ingredient to slow evaporation.

If you use paint thinner cure time might be exceptionally long.

If you deviate from the instructions, do not experiment on your project,
experiment on scraps.

Ok, thanks. I will get some mineral spirits.

Paul

On Nov 2, 12:37*pm, "Paul" wrote:
So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.

On 11/2/2011 3:42 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Nov 2, 12:37 pm, wrote:
So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.

Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.
--------------------------------------
Tung oil contains no driers.

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

Tung oil takes forever to dry.

BLO dries in a day or two.

I don't use straight tung oil for the above reasons.

YMMV

Lew

Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

No, I rarely use a seal coat of any kind. They only thing I would put
on raw wood before oil is dye.

On 11/2/2011 6:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

No, I rarely use a seal coat of any kind. They only thing I would put
on raw wood before oil is dye.

What kind/brand dye are you using. I for the first time ever used a
General Finishes die stain and I am pretty impressed with the speed of
application. Not to mention the penetration I am getting compared to a
regular oil stain.

In article om
"Lew Hodgett" writes:
--------------------------------------
Tung oil contains no driers.

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

When did they figure out how to make flax grow on a tree?


Tung oil takes forever to dry.

BLO dries in a day or two.

I don't use straight tung oil for the above reasons.

YMMV

Lew





--
|Drew Lawson | Mrs. Tweedy! |
| | The chickens are revolting! |

Tung oil contains no driers.

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

Tung oil takes forever to dry.

BLO dries in a day or two.

I don't use straight tung oil for the above reasons.

YMMV

Lew

Yeah I usually use BLO thinned with Mineral Spirits or Turpentine.
Linseed oil is from flax but Tung is from some Chinese nuts. Ok insert
joke here about tungs and nuts, and BLO, etc.

On 11/2/2011 7:21 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

No, it's not. Linseed oil comes from flax seeds; tung oil comes from the
nuts of the tung tree.

--
Paul
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
On Nov 2, 12:37 pm, "Paul" wrote:
So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some
mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.

I plan on using three coats of tung oil, and nothing over it. Will do a
scrap piece first, and see how I like it.

Paul

In article om,
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.
--------------------------------------
Tung oil contains no driers.

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

Tung oil takes forever to dry.

BLO dries in a day or two.

I don't use straight tung oil for the above reasons.

YMMV

Lew




Can't say for certain what you get on the west coast, but here in
the eastern USA, BLO is still linseed oil with driers, not tung oil
of any kind...

--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Wed, 02 Nov 2011 16:39:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/2/2011 3:42 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Nov 2, 12:37 pm, wrote:
So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.

Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

....then you won't get the pop from the oil.

I get superb results with Waterlox Satin, which is primarily a tung
oil finish with a phenolic component and some metal driers. It's
-weeks- faster than straight tung oil if you're trying to build a
handrubbed finish.

--
Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.
-- Jimi Hendrix

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

How do you figure that? Linseed oil is is squished out of flax seeds, tung
from tung nuts.

Maybe you meant that BLO is raw linseed oil with driers? True. But it can
be made without driers too.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Thu, 3 Nov 2011 07:34:20 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

How do you figure that? Linseed oil is is squished out of flax seeds, tung
from tung nuts.

Perhaps he was overcome by epoxy fumes.


Maybe you meant that BLO is raw linseed oil with driers? True. But it can
be made without driers too.

If so, that's the type which takes forever to finish polymerizing and
dry/harden. Ghastly stuff.

--
Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.
-- Jimi Hendrix

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.
--------------------------------------
"dadiOH" wrote:

How do you figure that? Linseed oil is is squished out of flax
seeds, tung from tung nuts.

Maybe you meant that BLO is raw linseed oil with driers? True. But
it can be made without driers too.
------------------------------------
Try your basic brain fart.

Was thinking about "raw" oil, tung or linseed, that takes forever to
dry while BLO contains driers which makes it workable and BTW, makes
it one of my favorite finishes.

Lew

--
Paul
"Larry W" wrote in message
...
In article om,
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.
--------------------------------------
Tung oil contains no driers.

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

Tung oil takes forever to dry.

BLO dries in a day or two.

I don't use straight tung oil for the above reasons.

YMMV

Lew




Can't say for certain what you get on the west coast, but here in
the eastern USA, BLO is still linseed oil with driers, not tung oil
of any kind...

--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

I bought Rocklers Tung Oil, so whatever that is.

Paul

On Thu, 3 Nov 2011 08:01:04 -0700, "Paul" wrote:

Rockler's Tung Oil

That is really tung oil.
http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD20000304AA.pdf. Most of the "tung oil
finishes" are some other oil / varnish / thinner blend to give a tung
oil "effect". Not that most people know what a tung oil finish looks
like.

Be warned that raw oil finishes are slow drying. Tung oil may be
faster than the others, but depending on temperature and humidity you
are talking a week or two to appear to be dry and two weeks to a month
to be really dry. By dry I mean fully cured by reacting with oxygen to
polymerize.

By the way, you do know that if you wad your rags up and throw them in
the garbage, the reaction of the oil with oxygen can start a fire? I
wash my rags out with solvent and then spread them out somewhere to
dry.

Jim

On Thu, 3 Nov 2011 08:01:04 -0700, "Paul" wrote:

I bought Rocklers Tung Oil, so whatever that is.

Squozen nuts.

http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD20000304AA.pdf

--
Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.
-- Jimi Hendrix

What kind/brand dye are you using. *I for the first time ever used a
General Finishes die stain and I am pretty impressed with the speed of
application. *Not to mention the penetration I am getting compared to a
regular oil stain.

I use Transtint premixed concentrated dyes. They are liquid and you
mix it with water or alcohol, I use water now after experimenting with
both. Some tricks to learn but great stuff. They come in lots of
colors and easy to mix to get any color you want.

- Alcohol dries way to fast and you end up with lap marks that are
hard to wash away.
- Wet and sand, wet and sand to raise and kill grain nibs.
- Get project damp first to slow absorbition which gives you better
control
- Build up to darkness you want or wash out areas with fresh water if
too dark
- Don't be afraid of water
- Watch seams, molding, corners and joints because the water wicks in
then wicks back out later and you end up with too much dye in corners
etc so keep wiping for 20 minutes or so.
- There is a great video somewhere on FWW where a guy is doing
sunburst colors on an electric guitar and he shows how to wash in and
out the color.
- Dyes look very ugly when dry and don't become beautiful until oiled
and especially when you hit them with shellac, lacquer, varnish or
poly.

On Nov 2, 6:44*pm, "Paul" wrote:
--
Paul"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message

...
On Nov 2, 12:37 pm, "Paul" wrote:

So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some
mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.

I plan on using three coats of tung oil, and nothing over it. Will do a
scrap piece first, and see how I like it.

Paul

That's good also. Kind of oversold on the durability even after fully
cured but a good finish none the less. I try really hard to get my
film finishes thin and dulled to look much like an oiled finish but
with a little better durability only needing wax for the rest of their
life. True oil finishes should be renewed every year or two.

On Nov 2, 7:28*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 11/2/2011 6:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:



Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

No, I rarely use a seal coat of any kind. They only thing I would put
on raw wood before oil is dye.

What kind/brand dye are you using. *I for the first time ever used a
General Finishes die stain and I am pretty impressed with the speed of
application. *Not to mention the penetration I am getting compared to a
regular oil stain.

Transtint / Transfast dyes will stain maple jet black in
very few coats. You'll never go back to Minwax.

On Nov 2, 3:37*pm, "Paul" wrote:
So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some mineral
spirits? Thanks.

Mineral spirits or turpentine, depending on whichever
smell you can best tolerate. Denatured EtOH won't
cut oil-based finishing products, just makes them
precipitate out into useless clumps.

On Nov 2, 4:42*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
On Nov 2, 12:37*pm, "Paul" wrote:

So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.

Excessive oil can seep back from pores, causing
many of the same problems. Apply light coats and
wipe back thoroughly.

On Nov 3, 10:32*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

--------------------------------------

"dadiOH" wrote:
How do you figure that? *Linseed oil is is squished out of flax
seeds, tung from tung nuts.

Maybe you meant that BLO is raw linseed oil with driers? *True. *But
it can be made without driers too.

------------------------------------
Try your basic brain fart.

Was thinking about "raw" oil, tung or linseed, that takes forever to
dry while BLO contains driers which makes it workable and BTW, makes
it one of my favorite finishes.

Lew

Raw linseed oil is used by artists, who want as much
working time as possible, several days, usually. If you
really want a fast drying linseed oil, Tru-Oil gunstock
oil is impossible to beat. Two hours between coats.
Full cure takes less than a week. Builds almost
as fast as varnish.

In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 3 Nov 2011 07:34:20 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

How do you figure that? Linseed oil is is squished out of flax seeds, tung
from tung nuts.

Perhaps he was overcome by epoxy fumes.

Or concentrating too much on local gasoline prices...

--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Thu, 3 Nov 2011 21:27:00 +0000 (UTC),
(Larry W) wrote:

In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 3 Nov 2011 07:34:20 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.

How do you figure that? Linseed oil is is squished out of flax seeds, tung
from tung nuts.

Perhaps he was overcome by epoxy fumes.

Or concentrating too much on local gasoline prices...

The latter is why I plonked him six months ago. Talk about OCD...

--
Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.
-- Jimi Hendrix

On Nov 2, 10:56*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Wed, 02 Nov 2011 16:39:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:









On 11/2/2011 3:42 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Nov 2, 12:37 pm, *wrote:
So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.

Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

...then you won't get the pop from the oil.

I get superb results with Waterlox Satin, which is primarily a tung
oil finish with a phenolic component and some metal driers. It's
-weeks- faster than straight tung oil if you're trying to build a
handrubbed finish.

I'll second the Waterlox plug. Excellent stuff.
JP

--
Paul
"Jim Weisgram" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 3 Nov 2011 08:01:04 -0700, "Paul" wrote:

Rockler's Tung Oil

That is really tung oil.
http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD20000304AA.pdf. Most of the "tung oil
finishes" are some other oil / varnish / thinner blend to give a tung
oil "effect". Not that most people know what a tung oil finish looks
like.

Be warned that raw oil finishes are slow drying. Tung oil may be
faster than the others, but depending on temperature and humidity you
are talking a week or two to appear to be dry and two weeks to a month
to be really dry. By dry I mean fully cured by reacting with oxygen to
polymerize.

By the way, you do know that if you wad your rags up and throw them in
the garbage, the reaction of the oil with oxygen can start a fire? I
wash my rags out with solvent and then spread them out somewhere to
dry.

Jim
Wow, that long to dry? Guess I won't be using that stuff. Have to find
someone to give it to. Shoulda asked first.

I never put staining rags or anything like that directly in the trash. I
drop them on the concrete, I'm outside, then in a couple days or so, I pick
them up and throw them away.

Paul

--
Paul
"Father Haskell" wrote in message
...
On Nov 2, 4:42 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
On Nov 2, 12:37 pm, "Paul" wrote:

So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to
dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured
alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some
mineral
spirits? Thanks.

--
Paul

Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than
once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of
undesirable and unpredictable issues.

Excessive oil can seep back from pores, causing
many of the same problems. Apply light coats and
wipe back thoroughly.

The instructions say to let dry 24 hours before recoating. Doesn't say how
long it takes to fully dry once you are done.

Paul

On 11/3/2011 12:58 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
What kind/brand dye are you using. I for the first time ever used a
General Finishes die stain and I am pretty impressed with the speed of
application. Not to mention the penetration I am getting compared to a
regular oil stain.

I use Transtint premixed concentrated dyes. They are liquid and you
mix it with water or alcohol, I use water now after experimenting with
both. Some tricks to learn but great stuff. They come in lots of
colors and easy to mix to get any color you want.

- Alcohol dries way to fast and you end up with lap marks that are
hard to wash away.
- Wet and sand, wet and sand to raise and kill grain nibs.
- Get project damp first to slow absorbition which gives you better
control
- Build up to darkness you want or wash out areas with fresh water if
too dark
- Don't be afraid of water
- Watch seams, molding, corners and joints because the water wicks in
then wicks back out later and you end up with too much dye in corners
etc so keep wiping for 20 minutes or so.
- There is a great video somewhere on FWW where a guy is doing
sunburst colors on an electric guitar and he shows how to wash in and
out the color.
- Dyes look very ugly when dry and don't become beautiful until oiled
and especially when you hit them with shellac, lacquer, varnish or
poly.

Thamks for the tips.

On 11/3/2011 3:01 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Nov 2, 7:28 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 11/2/2011 6:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:



Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

No, I rarely use a seal coat of any kind. They only thing I would put
on raw wood before oil is dye.

What kind/brand dye are you using. I for the first time ever used a
General Finishes die stain and I am pretty impressed with the speed of
application. Not to mention the penetration I am getting compared to a
regular oil stain.

Transtint / Transfast dyes will stain maple jet black in
very few coats. You'll never go back to Minwax.


Never go back to Minwax. Now that was funny, I don't care who you are.
I would never by choice use Minwax stains or varnishes.

I did try General Finishes Dye Stain for the first time on my current
Large project and I am pretty impressed. In this particular case I like
the fact that the day does in fact stain rather than paint on a
translucent finish like their gel stains.

I was a Lawrence McFadden and Bartley's gel stain and gel varnish loyal
user until both became unavaliable. Now I have to find a new main stay,
Althought Good Stuff varnish is a lot like the Lawrence McFadden gel
varnish.

On Fri, 04 Nov 2011 06:57:33 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/3/2011 3:01 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Nov 2, 7:28 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 11/2/2011 6:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:



Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

No, I rarely use a seal coat of any kind. They only thing I would put
on raw wood before oil is dye.

What kind/brand dye are you using. I for the first time ever used a
General Finishes die stain and I am pretty impressed with the speed of
application. Not to mention the penetration I am getting compared to a
regular oil stain.

Transtint / Transfast dyes will stain maple jet black in
very few coats. You'll never go back to Minwax.


Never go back to Minwax. Now that was funny, I don't care who you are.
I would never by choice use Minwax stains or varnishes.

+1

The Hindenburg, The Titanic, The Clintons, Packard Hell, Minwhacked,
WaterSeal, Maytag, Yugo, Fiat, Obama. (Great F-Ups in History)


I did try General Finishes Dye Stain for the first time on my current
Large project and I am pretty impressed. In this particular case I like
the fact that the day does in fact stain rather than paint on a
translucent finish like their gel stains.

If a person is frugal, go buy dyes at W.D. Lockwood in NYC. They're
inexpensive, if you must use dye (or stain.)
http://www.wdlockwood.com (Prices tripled since I last looked)
http://goo.gl/SaSLI How to use.

--
The unexamined life is not worth living.
--Socrates

On Nov 3, 12:06*pm, Jim Weisgram
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Nov 2011 08:01:04 -0700, "Paul" wrote:

Rockler's Tung Oil

That is really tung oil.http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD20000304AA.pdf. Most of the "tung oil
finishes" are some other oil / varnish / thinner blend to give a tung
oil "effect". Not that most people know what a tung oil finish looks
like.

Be warned that raw oil finishes are slow drying. Tung oil may be
faster than the others, but depending on temperature and humidity you
are talking a week or two to appear to be dry and two weeks to a month
to be really dry. By dry I mean fully cured by reacting with oxygen to
polymerize.

By the way, you do know that if you wad your rags up and throw them in
the garbage, the reaction of the oil with oxygen can start a fire? I
wash my rags out with solvent and then spread them out somewhere to
dry.

I hope you spread them out somewhere where they won't
burn your house down if that method fails.

If you're rinsing them for re-use either you use a lot of oil
finish or you are awfully cheap!

Somewhere back in the Google archives of this newsgroup
there is an article by a fellow who used to hang his rags on
the clothesline to dry. One day one caught fire.

He probably didn't rinse them first, but still...

The common instructions for disposal call for sealing the
rag in a metal container, like an old paint can that is partially
filled with water. You can keep doing that until the can is
full of rags then toss it in the trash.

Once the rags are hard and stiff the danger of spontaneous combustion
is past.

An alternative is to deliberately burn them, if you have a safe place
to do that.

--

FF

Larry Jaques wrote:
The Hindenburg, The Titanic, The Clintons, Packard Hell, Minwhacked,
WaterSeal, Maytag, Yugo, Fiat, Obama. (Great F-Ups in History)
---------------------------------
"dadiOH" wrote:

Whoa there, my friend. I bought a 1973 Fiat Spyder new, loved it,
still have it, it was our only car until an idiot pulled out into
the highway and stopped.
------------------------------
Consider the source.

Lew

On 11/4/2011 8:18 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 04 Nov 2011 06:57:33 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/3/2011 3:01 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Nov 2, 7:28 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 11/2/2011 6:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:



Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....

No, I rarely use a seal coat of any kind. They only thing I would put
on raw wood before oil is dye.

What kind/brand dye are you using. I for the first time ever used a
General Finishes die stain and I am pretty impressed with the speed of
application. Not to mention the penetration I am getting compared to a
regular oil stain.

Transtint / Transfast dyes will stain maple jet black in
very few coats. You'll never go back to Minwax.


Never go back to Minwax. Now that was funny, I don't care who you are.
I would never by choice use Minwax stains or varnishes.

+1

The Hindenburg, The Titanic, The Clintons, Packard Hell, Minwhacked,
WaterSeal, Maytag, Yugo, Fiat, Obama. (Great F-Ups in History)

I will confess that I have seen good Minwax results, but not coming from me.

Add the PC detail sander. ;~)

Larry Jaques wrote:
The Hindenburg, The Titanic, The Clintons, Packard Hell, Minwhacked,
WaterSeal, Maytag, Yugo, Fiat, Obama. (Great F-Ups in History)

Whoa there, my friend. I bought a 1973 Fiat Spyder new, loved it, still
have it, it was our only car until an idiot pulled out into the highway and
stopped.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico