I just added to my web site a sketch of the jig I just designed to
temporarily hold a 9' 2by4 at ceiling level. I will also use it to
hold up 4 foot fluorescent light fixtures while I install them (I'm a
one-man show). The actual height of my ceiling is about 93", but that
may be immaterial.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Assume 3 nails into from the vertical stud into the base.
My question is: What is the easiest way to further reinforce it?

I am considering (1) nailing a small 3.5" square piece of 2by4 on each
side of the bottom of the vertical stud and then a 10" piece of 2by4
across these 2 squares, boxing the vertical stud in. This may be
slight overkill, but hey, I have a reputation to maintain.

I was also (2) considering a foot long length of 2by4 with 45 degree
angle cut on each end positioned diagonally between the base and the
vertical stud. My concern here was not whether this was a good idea,
but that a nail through the "top" of a 45 degree end was likely to split
it...

Just thought I'd see what people who know think.

By the way, I also submit this as another example of sketching with
SketchUp for folks who are still wondering whether it is really useful
or not. Note how I was able to add "notes" off to the side--which are
as easily maintainable as on an editable document... Not only that, I
could just print it out and mail it to the patent office...LOL! : )

Bill

Bill wrote in :

http://web.newsguy

Bill,

Take a 24" x 24" piece of hardboard (called masonite where I'm from) and
cut across it diagonally making two large 90° triangles. Place these in
between the base pieces and the lower upright. This should prevent any
racking of the base.

Hope this helps.
Steve

Steve wrote:
wrote in :

http://web.newsguy

Bill,

Take a 24" x 24" piece of hardboard (called masonite where I'm from) and
cut across it diagonally making two large 90° triangles. Place these in
between the base pieces and the lower upright. This should prevent any
racking of the base.

Hope this helps.
Steve

You must be thinking of that 1/4" hardboard, huh (I usually buy the 1/8"
stuff). Thank You for the idea, I would have never thought of that!
Hardboard comes in handy more often than I would have expected.
See Wikipedia for more uses (protecting walls and floors,...). I learned
that it's Formaldehyde-free too, which is something I appreciate and
wasn't sure about.

Looking at my picture again, I think I better add something to help keep
my jig from tipping too. I just happen to have 2 bags of top soil, but I
ought to be able to do a little better than that.

By the way, in case you are curious, half of the reason for this "jig"
is for a sintifik experiment to determine whether three 48" fluorescent
fixtures in 8' produces an unpleasant amount of light or not. You may
recall this was enthusiastically discussed earlier in the year (and,
although there are charts, graphs and standards, to some extent, is a
matter of personal taste). I've got the lights, and the bulbs, and after
I complete this scaffolding we'll find out...lol.

Bill

In article , says...

I just added to my web site a sketch of the jig I just designed to
temporarily hold a 9' 2by4 at ceiling level. I will also use it to
hold up 4 foot fluorescent light fixtures while I install them (I'm a
one-man show). The actual height of my ceiling is about 93", but that
may be immaterial.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Assume 3 nails into from the vertical stud into the base.
My question is: What is the easiest way to further reinforce it?

I am considering (1) nailing a small 3.5" square piece of 2by4 on each
side of the bottom of the vertical stud and then a 10" piece of 2by4
across these 2 squares, boxing the vertical stud in. This may be
slight overkill, but hey, I have a reputation to maintain.

I was also (2) considering a foot long length of 2by4 with 45 degree
angle cut on each end positioned diagonally between the base and the
vertical stud. My concern here was not whether this was a good idea,
but that a nail through the "top" of a 45 degree end was likely to split
it...

Just thought I'd see what people who know think.

By the way, I also submit this as another example of sketching with
SketchUp for folks who are still wondering whether it is really useful
or not. Note how I was able to add "notes" off to the side--which are
as easily maintainable as on an editable document... Not only that, I
could just print it out and mail it to the patent office...LOL! : )

Bill, just a suggestion, but if you do a lot of solo work, you really
want to get a couple of these
http://www.coastaltool.com/other/fastcap/3rd_hand.html?id=RzPAjpXc.

On Jul 6, 7:35*am, "J. Clarke" wrote:

Bill, just a suggestion, but if you do a lot of solo work, you really
want to get a couple of these
http://www.coastaltool.com/other/fastcap/3rd_hand.html?id=RzPAjpXc. *

+1 They're really useful and a good investment. I use them primarily
for erecting temporary barriers, but I've used them for a host of
things where the load isn't too great. First thing that came to mind
when I saw your jig sketch and application.

R

On 7/6/2011 1:41 AM, Bill wrote:

By the way, I also submit this as another example of sketching with
SketchUp for folks who are still wondering whether it is really useful
or not. Note how I was able to add "notes" off to the side--which are as
easily maintainable as on an editable document... Not only that, I could
just print it out and mail it to the patent office...LOL! : )

Well, you've already been beat to the punch by years.

The advantage of using yours, and the other similar off the shelf
methods, are that you can do them easier singlehandedly,

However, just so you know ... there is also a traditional way to do this
in the construction business, which works for your application, as well
as being particularly helpful when you need temporary supports in a load
bearing situation, and with much more upward force possible:

Simply cut two, or more, of the vertical 2x4 components ~2" longer than
the ceiling height.

Wedge them at an angle between a 2x4 held to the ceiling and another 2x4
laid on the floor. One nail through each of the vertical supports into
the top 2x4 will quickly hold them in place at the top.

By tapping the bottom of each vertical support with a hammer, then
putting in one nail to hold it to the bottom sill, you can exert much
more control over the amount of upward support you give to what you want
to hold up.

Placing the vertical supports in a rough triangle thusly is a time
honored method to support a ceiling when removing an existing load
bearing wall and replacing with a beam.

The advantages are that it is quick to do, strong, infinitely adjustable
with a hammer tap, can be done at no cost from materials that are
readily available on site, the components do not have to be
stored/transported, and when taking the temporary support down, said
used materials can be used immediately in the rest of the project.

We often use the above method to quickly erect dust control barriers;
and by using strips of sheet insulation between the horizontal 2 x 4's,
there is little risk of damage to the existing ceiling or floor.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Wed, 06 Jul 2011 02:41:41 -0400, Bill wrote:


I just added to my web site a sketch of the jig I just designed to
temporarily hold a 9' 2by4 at ceiling level. I will also use it to
hold up 4 foot fluorescent light fixtures while I install them (I'm a
one-man show). The actual height of my ceiling is about 93", but that
may be immaterial.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Assume 3 nails into from the vertical stud into the base.
My question is: What is the easiest way to further reinforce it?

Sorry, suh, but you haven't spent enough time in design yet to ask for
help.

Where's the vertical adjustability? Where's the lateral stability?

Get a couple of the HF 955746 (damn, HF discontinued them!) adjustable
poles and modify them with tripod feet and upper fingers. You need
them around, anyway. Try zipwall poles, cha ching!



I am considering (1) nailing a small 3.5" square piece of 2by4 on each
side of the bottom of the vertical stud and then a 10" piece of 2by4
across these 2 squares, boxing the vertical stud in. This may be
slight overkill, but hey, I have a reputation to maintain.

Correct. "Slight" just won't cut it. Go for the gusto, boy!


I was also (2) considering a foot long length of 2by4 with 45 degree
angle cut on each end positioned diagonally between the base and the
vertical stud. My concern here was not whether this was a good idea,
but that a nail through the "top" of a 45 degree end was likely to split
it...

Just thought I'd see what people who know think.

It will. Drill clearance holes.


By the way, I also submit this as another example of sketching with
SketchUp for folks who are still wondering whether it is really useful
or not. Note how I was able to add "notes" off to the side--which are
as easily maintainable as on an editable document... Not only that, I
could just print it out and mail it to the patent office...LOL! : )

Be sure to reference all the drywall lift patents. http://goo.gl/LINhw


--
Fear not those who argue but those who dodge.
-- Marie Ebner von Eschenbach

Swingman wrote:

However, just so you know ... there is also a traditional way to do this
in the construction business, which works for your application, as well
as being particularly helpful when you need temporary supports in a load
bearing situation, and with much more upward force possible:

snip


Thank you for sharing a thoughtful and valuable lesson!

Bill

Bill wrote:
I just added to my web site a sketch of the jig I just designed to
temporarily hold a 9' 2by4 at ceiling level. I will also use it to
hold up 4 foot fluorescent light fixtures while I install them (I'm a
one-man show). The actual height of my ceiling is about 93", but that
may be immaterial.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Assume 3 nails into from the vertical stud into the base.
My question is: What is the easiest way to further reinforce it?


Hi Bill:

For its intended use, I would not bother with any further reinforcement.
Just not necessary.

--

-Mike-

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:
I just added to my web site a sketch of the jig I just designed to
temporarily hold a 9' 2by4 at ceiling level. I will also use it to
hold up 4 foot fluorescent light fixtures while I install them (I'm a
one-man show). The actual height of my ceiling is about 93", but that
may be immaterial.

Without worrying about tipping, let me just say that it is much easier to
get/adjust vertical height by using a couple of hand screws instead of nails
to hold the 2x4 pieces together.


dadiOH, I was going to use nails at the base, and 3/8" bolts along the
vertical. If I see 3/8" wingnuts, I'll pick them up. I didn't think of
using my handscrews--great idea for "infinite adjustability". I'm going
to head over to that Big Orange Store. Thanks!

Bill

If all you need do is hold a two-by to the ceiling while you nail it
in place - a couple of eight-foot 1 x 4's cut to fit tight would be
simpler to jam in place 'till you shoot the nails or screws in place.
Way over-worked.

Also the $35 prop stick thing can be bought at HFT for ten bucks on
sale and work reasonably well - though, after a year or so I had to
reinforce the handle with some aluminium.

If the 2by is to be temporarily secured, use screws and patch the
ceiling after removing the board.

Having said all that, 2-bulb shop lights are not that heavy and can be
hung with little screw eyes ad bits of chain - as are all in my shop,
If you want to gang three or so, tie them to a short length of wood
and use the screw eyes, chains and hooks to tie that to the ceiling