I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.

Since I won't be able to get a single piece of stock that will be big
enough, I plan on gluing up from thinner pieces. My question is, how
should the gluing be oriented?

In bad ascii art (looking end-on)

| | | | |
| | | | | IE - the glue joints are vertical

or

-------
-------
-------
------- IE the glue joints are horizontal

I lean towards the vertical glue lines, as the wood movement would be
parallel to the blade. If I went horizontal, the space for the blade
would expand/contract. Maybe the difference is small enough such that
it doesn't matter.

But, I thought I'd ask here for any advice before starting.

Thanks,
Steve

On Apr 27, 5:34*pm, Steve Anthony wrote:

I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.

Since I won't be able to get a single piece of stock that will be big
enough, I plan on gluing up from thinner pieces. My question is, how
should the gluing be oriented?

In bad ascii art (looking end-on)

| | | | |
| | | | | * IE - the glue joints are vertical

or

-------
-------
-------
------- *IE the glue joints are horizontal

I lean towards the vertical glue lines, as the wood movement would be
parallel to the blade. If I went horizontal, the space for the blade
would expand/contract. Maybe the difference is small enough such that
it doesn't matter.

But, I thought I'd ask here for any advice before starting.

Here's a thread on another forum that addresses your question, and
others that you will have.
http://www.unpluggedshop.com/blogs/l...-wooden-planes

R

"Steve Anthony" wrote in message
...

I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.
[...]
But, I thought I'd ask here for any advice before starting.


I love using my wooden planes. In fact I don't understand how the metal ones
ever caught on.
I have never made them because the old ones (and some new ones too) are so
easy to find, cheap to buy, pleasing to use, fun to clean up and tune, so I
can't give you any good advice, except perhaps to copy slavishly an old
pattern - no point trying to be clever here. You know how if you use a tool
a lot you become intensely aware of the efficiency of that tool - the old
patterns are much closer to perfect than you or I could ever think out or
design already.

But really I just wanted to wish you well in your endeavour. It could be
really rewarding.

Tim W

On Apr 27, 6:26*pm, "Tim W" wrote:

I love using my wooden planes. In fact I don't understand how the metal ones
ever caught on.

Have you ever used an infill plane? They're about the best
combination of features. The extra weight is a plus - like the extra
mass on a jointer or TS - it cuts down on chatter and smooths out the
stroke.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Apr 27, 6:26 pm, "Tim W" wrote:

I love using my wooden planes. In fact I don't understand how the metal
ones
ever caught on.

Have you ever used an infill plane? They're about the best
combination of features. The extra weight is a plus - like the extra
mass on a jointer or TS - it cuts down on chatter and smooths out the
stroke.
---------------

I haven't. In fact I had to Google to find out what they are. Interesting.

Tim w

On Apr 27, 5:34*pm, Steve Anthony wrote:
I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.

Since I won't be able to get a single piece of stock that will be big
enough, I plan on gluing up from thinner pieces. My question is, how
should the gluing be oriented?

In bad ascii art (looking end-on)

| | | | |
| | | | | * IE - the glue joints are vertical

or

-------
-------
-------
------- *IE the glue joints are horizontal

I lean towards the vertical glue lines, as the wood movement would be
parallel to the blade. If I went horizontal, the space for the blade
would expand/contract. Maybe the difference is small enough such that
it doesn't matter.

But, I thought I'd ask here for any advice before starting.

Thanks,
Steve

Don't worry about wood movement, they all
move, even the best Japanese planes. Takes
but a second to set the iron, which is what
makes a woodie so great. Irons on a 100
year old Bailey should set as fast.

"Steve Anthony" wrote in message
...
I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.

Since I won't be able to get a single piece of stock that will be big
enough, I plan on gluing up from thinner pieces. My question is, how
should the gluing be oriented?

In bad ascii art (looking end-on)

| | | | |
| | | | | IE - the glue joints are vertical

or

-------
-------
-------
------- IE the glue joints are horizontal

I lean towards the vertical glue lines, as the wood movement would be
parallel to the blade. If I went horizontal, the space for the blade
would expand/contract. Maybe the difference is small enough such that
it doesn't matter.


Actually I do have some advice after all, although you will know this by now
if you have looked at some hand made planes on the net.

Traditionally the plane body is a single block of wood and you have to cut
the throat through from top to bottom like a difficult angled mortice. You
can cheat by forming the throat when you glue up the plane body out of
separate oieces. Not really authentic, but with modern glues perfectly
adequate.

Tim W

On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:34:27 -0700 (PDT), Steve Anthony
wrote:

I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.

This should help.

http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/eur...ane/39703.html

Steve Anthony wrote the following:
I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.

Since I won't be able to get a single piece of stock that will be big
enough, I plan on gluing up from thinner pieces. My question is, how
should the gluing be oriented?

In bad ascii art (looking end-on)

| | | | |
| | | | | IE - the glue joints are vertical

or

-------
-------
-------
------- IE the glue joints are horizontal

I lean towards the vertical glue lines, as the wood movement would be
parallel to the blade. If I went horizontal, the space for the blade
would expand/contract. Maybe the difference is small enough such that
it doesn't matter.

But, I thought I'd ask here for any advice before starting.

Thanks,
Steve


Well, it worked for the WWII British Mosquito.
insert Groan here

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

In article ,
says...

On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:34:27 -0700 (PDT), Steve Anthony
wrote:

I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.

This should help.

http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/eur...ane/39703.html


I like his overall design.

I'd either put a couple of pins through the body or use either weldwood
plastic resin glue or hide glue to glue it up. Titebond creeps under
continuous force and the wedge provides continuous force. Neither
Weldwood plastic resin nor hide glue will creep--there's a time for old
school or older school. Dunno if it's a problem with a plane or not--
my wooden planes are all older than I am and the bodies are one-piece--
but I'd rather belt-and-suspenders it from the start.

"Steve Anthony" wrote in message
...

I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.
[...]
But, I thought I'd ask here for any advice before starting.


Did you get started Steve? I am tempted to start one myself now. I was
thinking about a German pattern rather than an English one, you know with
the handle at the front and the blade in the middle? They are good to use.

Tim W

On Apr 28, 6:53*am, tommyboy wrote:
On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:34:27 -0700 (PDT), Steve Anthony

wrote:
I'm going to try to make a wooden plane, probably a jack/fore plane.

This should help.

http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/eur...ane/39703.html

Mind your thumbs on the router table. That looked a
*bit* close not to use a push block.

Krenov design. No handles, and works all the better
for it. These are a bit finer finished. Krenov checkered
or simply left the top surfaces rough from the bandsaw
to enhance grip. The work they performed was more
important. Krenov also shaped the bottoms of his planes
to preform specific tasks, such as coopering.