"WayneJ" wrote in message
newsp.voqs8hlgnatzq9@dellilah...
Hi all,

I need to buy a new sander, primarily for finishing. I was set to go get a
palm sander, but a couple of friends are telling me I should get a random
orbital instead. They claim that they can be just as good for finish work
and better for coarser things. I question whether they are really as good
for finish sanding, and I already have a straight disk sander for rough
work.

I need to keep the cost reasonable, but I don't want to buy junk either.
I'm looking at brands like Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee, etc. the money for
brands like Festool isn't there. I think a 1/4 sheet palm sander or 5 inch
random orbital sander, is what I'm looking at.

Does anybody have thoughts on this, and any recommendations in the price
range I'm limited to?

Thanks,
WayneJ

--


The trouble with a ROS sander is that it will not get into tight corners.
Do you want to hand sand there?

I have never seen a finish sander perform as well as the PC SpeedBloc, the
bell shaped sander. That sander is a well tested design that has been
around for many many years. It IS NOT a toy. I have owned 2 in the last 21
years.

Having said that I now own and exclusively use the Festool Rotex and Festool
finish sander. I use them exclusively because I was/am tired of dealing
with dust. With a vac less than 1% of all dust escapes either of thse
sanders. The Festool finish sander is approximately twice the prce of the
$90 PC SpeedBloc sander. Both Festool Sanders are great but the PC
SpeedBloc will out perform the Festool finish sander if you don't mind the
cloud of dust.

So Leon,

I went looking at the festool online.
I don't see where they sell an adapter to a vac hose. I only see dust
bags accys. If I buy a Festool RTS 400 EQ, will I need to buy something
else to attach it to my shop vac hose?

On 1/5/2011 3:17 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
newsp.voqs8hlgnatzq9@dellilah...
Hi all,

I need to buy a new sander, primarily for finishing. I was set to go get a
palm sander, but a couple of friends are telling me I should get a random
orbital instead. They claim that they can be just as good for finish work
and better for coarser things. I question whether they are really as good
for finish sanding, and I already have a straight disk sander for rough
work.

I need to keep the cost reasonable, but I don't want to buy junk either.
I'm looking at brands like Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee, etc. the money for
brands like Festool isn't there. I think a 1/4 sheet palm sander or 5 inch
random orbital sander, is what I'm looking at.

Does anybody have thoughts on this, and any recommendations in the price
range I'm limited to?

Thanks,
WayneJ

--


The trouble with a ROS sander is that it will not get into tight corners.
Do you want to hand sand there?

I have never seen a finish sander perform as well as the PC SpeedBloc, the
bell shaped sander. That sander is a well tested design that has been
around for many many years. It IS NOT a toy. I have owned 2 in the last 21
years.

Having said that I now own and exclusively use the Festool Rotex and Festool
finish sander. I use them exclusively because I was/am tired of dealing
with dust. With a vac less than 1% of all dust escapes either of thse
sanders. The Festool finish sander is approximately twice the prce of the
$90 PC SpeedBloc sander. Both Festool Sanders are great but the PC
SpeedBloc will out perform the Festool finish sander if you don't mind the
cloud of dust.

"tiredofspam" nospam.nospam.com wrote in message
...
So Leon,

I went looking at the festool online.
I don't see where they sell an adapter to a vac hose. I only see dust bags
accys. If I buy a Festool RTS 400 EQ, will I need to buy something else to
attach it to my shop vac hose?


IIRC the Festool uses a 1" OD hose that fit over the sander manifold.
Don't let that confuse you. ;~) If I had to listen to a typical shop vac I
might consider a mask and not use the vac. I do use the Festool shop vac
which is very quiet, more quiet than the sander in fact. there are lots of
adapters that would probably get you going.

I do use a Fein adapter to adapt my Festool vac hose to my Kreg PH jig. If
you have a Woodcraft or Rockler, or Festool dealer near by take your hose
into he store and perhaps they will have a solution. I would not think that
a 2" hose running up to the sander would be very easy to use, FWTIW.

"Swingman" wrote

(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand with
the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project, ...

Where can I buy one of these "by hand sanders"? G

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 07:06:26 -0600, Swingman wrote:


IME, and even with the same, or higher grit paper, the surface finish
with the Fein, in corners where it's used, does not match the finish
done with a ROS on the rest of the piece.

This can be particularly glaring/evident when using a light stain and
it's why I make the last few grit passes with a finish sander that
will sand into corners, instead of using the Fein.

(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand
with the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project,
breaking edges as I go. To me, that is the only satisfying part of
the entire sanding process, and allows me time to inspect and
rectify any problems with details).

Gotta get enjoyment out of sanding where you can ...

Indeed. A final hand sanding is a must, bringing you closer to the
wood, looking and feeling for blems, splinters, and sharp edges.

Do you wipe the entire project down with lacquer or paint thinner to
check for blems and degrease it? It can be a godsend.

I've prefinished a few projects prior to assembly, and that can be
very handy, too.

Echo that. It's not just a woodworking thing - it works in all kinds of
finishing efforts. Nothing beats that final hands-on-the-project
connection. I use every tool that can make my work easier, but whether it's
painting a car, painting a piece of cherry, staining a piece of pine, or
pouring on a quart of used 30 weight engine oil, it's that last hand to
product contact that makes sure everything is going to look right. I
believe the same statements could be made about sex...

--

-Mike-

On 1/06/11 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 07:06:26 -0600, wrote:


IME, and even with the same, or higher grit paper, the surface finish
with the Fein, in corners where it's used, does not match the finish
done with a ROS on the rest of the piece.

This can be particularly glaring/evident when using a light stain and
it's why I make the last few grit passes with a finish sander that
will sand into corners, instead of using the Fein.

(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand
with the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project,
breaking edges as I go. To me, that is the only satisfying part of
the entire sanding process, and allows me time to inspect and
rectify any problems with details).

Gotta get enjoyment out of sanding where you can ...

Indeed. A final hand sanding is a must, bringing you closer to the
wood, looking and feeling for blems, splinters, and sharp edges.

Do you wipe the entire project down with lacquer or paint thinner to
check for blems and degrease it? It can be a godsend.

I've prefinished a few projects prior to assembly, and that can be
very handy, too.

Echo that. It's not just a woodworking thing - it works in all kinds of
finishing efforts. Nothing beats that final hands-on-the-project
connection. I use every tool that can make my work easier, but whether it's
painting a car, painting a piece of cherry, staining a piece of pine, or
pouring on a quart of used 30 weight engine oil, it's that last hand to
product contact that makes sure everything is going to look right.


I believe the same statements could be made about sex...

With or without the 30 weight oil?

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

FrozenNorth wrote:
On 1/06/11 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:


I believe the same statements could be made about sex...

With or without the 30 weight oil?

Depends upon the weight of the subject. 30 weight is certainly considered a
universal solution (if you will...), but some may work well with 5W30, while
others require 10W30. Some - freaking gear lube! I suppose to some degree,
it depends on their cold start characteristics...

--

-Mike-

WayneJ wrote:


I've pretty much decided that a 1/4 sheet palm sander is what I will
buy. The Bosch is one I am considering, but I have seen several
reports of problems with the sandpaper clamps. Mainly that the rubber
on the front clamp fails and will no longer grip the paper.


Consider both. Each one has its own application. Neither will do all of
the job the way that the other will.

--

-Mike-

I use a quarter sheet Makita plam sander (about 15 years old) and the one
feature I would look for again (I had to be shown this by others) is taking
multiple sheets at a time. You prepare and mount three or four sheets and
when one is "dull" you tear it off and keep going. The motor hardly comes to
a rest.

When you have measured and got the perfect size sheet ready you make four at
a time and they are stored right on the unit. Back to work.


"WayneJ" wrote in message
newsp.vowdughonatzq9@dellilah...
I've pretty much decided that a 1/4 sheet palm sander is what I will buy.
The Bosch is one I am considering, but I have seen several reports of
problems with the sandpaper clamps. Mainly that the rubber on the front
clamp fails and will no longer grip the paper.

Have you seen any problems like this with your Bosch?

Thanks,
WayneJ

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
FrozenNorth wrote:
On 1/06/11 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:


I believe the same statements could be made about sex...

With or without the 30 weight oil?

Depends upon the weight of the subject. 30 weight is certainly considered
a universal solution (if you will...), but some may work well with 5W30,
while others require 10W30. Some - freaking gear lube! I suppose to some
degree, it depends on their cold start characteristics...

--

-Mike-


I prefer the ¼ sheet palm electric sander

I have 3 palm sanders. The oldest is a Makita.

I have used them for removing antifouling paint from the bottom of my boat
( 34 feet long) and for woodworking.

I have learned, with time that the quality of the sand paper has a lot to do
with the removal speed and finish.

I buy my sand paper sheet 8"X11" (NO-FIL or OPEN COAT ADALOX) at the auto
parts store. I then cut the sheet in 4 to suit my palm sanders and the
perforated holes are made at installation. The ¼ sheet of sand paper comes
down to about 15 to 20 cents ea. Compare to the ROS sanding disks the cost
is less and I am very happy of the results.

..

On Jan 6, 12:36*pm, WayneJ wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 07:07:30 -0800, Robatoy *
wrote:

Great minds and all that rot... fools etc.G

BUT!... I keep grabbing this thing: Bosch 1297DK. Not as aggressive as
a ROS, but it always sits on my bench, ready with a sheet of fresh 120
and I just love that little thing. (I also own 3 Festool sanders and a
variety of bigger and smaller stuff.)
With the adaptor, it is as dust-free as it gets, considering. 90%?
If I HAD to have just one sander for smaller work, that Bosch would be
it. I just wish it fit my hands like a SpeedBloc, but..*cough, cough*

I've pretty much decided that a 1/4 sheet palm sander is what I will buy. *
The Bosch is one I am considering, but I have seen several reports of *
problems with the sandpaper clamps. Mainly that the rubber on the front *
clamp fails and will no longer grip the paper.

Have you seen any problems like this with your Bosch?

Thanks,
WayneJ

No I haven't. In all fairness, I don't do a lot of sanding although I
would think that if those rubber grippers were going to fail, they
would have by now. They are very easy to take off and put on.. just
tried that. No worries.

On Jan 6, 11:10*am, "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast
dot net wrote:
"Swingman" wrote



(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand with
the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project, ...

Where can I buy one of these "by hand sanders"? *G

220 volt 3 phase only and don't forget to run a grounding wire through
your pant legs.

On Jan 6, 12:40*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote:
On 1/06/11 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:

I believe the same statements could be made about sex...

With or without the 30 weight oil?

Depends upon the weight of the subject. *30 weight is certainly considered a
universal solution (if you will...), but some may work well with 5W30, while
others require 10W30. *Some - freaking gear lube! *I suppose to some degree,
it depends on their cold start characteristics...

--

-Mike-


Try to avoid synthetics...as well as synthetic oil.

On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 06:53:37 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

I've prefinished a few projects prior to assembly, and that can be very
handy, too.

That's my normal method. Not only is the sanding and finishing a lot
easier, any glue squeezed out is easily popped off.

I have trouble even imagining why anyone would finish after assembly.

Of course, I do need to do the occasional touch up to fix something I
scuffed/scratched/dinged during assembly, but if I'm careful I can
usually avoid that.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

WayneJ wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 09:42:15 -0800, Mike Marlow
wrote:


Consider both. Each one has its own application. Neither will do
all of the job the way that the other will.


I agree, Mike both would be best and that is likely what I'll do in
the future. At this time I can only buy one and the palm sander looks
to be better for my immediate needs.


FWIW - that's the route I took. Ended up with one palm sander (never
regretted that purchase) and a couple of random orbitals. Left foot in
front of the right, until we end up with everything we want.

--

-Mike-

Denis M wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
FrozenNorth wrote:
On 1/06/11 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:


I believe the same statements could be made about sex...

With or without the 30 weight oil?

Depends upon the weight of the subject. 30 weight is certainly
considered a universal solution (if you will...), but some may work
well with 5W30, while others require 10W30. Some - freaking gear
lube! I suppose to some degree, it depends on their cold start
characteristics... --

-Mike-


I prefer the ¼ sheet palm electric sander

I have 3 palm sanders. The oldest is a Makita.

I have used them for removing antifouling paint from the bottom of my
boat ( 34 feet long) and for woodworking.

I have learned, with time that the quality of the sand paper has a
lot to do with the removal speed and finish.

I buy my sand paper sheet 8"X11" (NO-FIL or OPEN COAT ADALOX) at the
auto parts store. I then cut the sheet in 4 to suit my palm sanders
and the perforated holes are made at installation. The ¼ sheet of
sand paper comes down to about 15 to 20 cents ea. Compare to the ROS
sanding disks the cost is less and I am very happy of the results.

.

Wait a minute - what does this have to do with 30 weight engine oil and sex?

--

-Mike-

Robatoy wrote:
On Jan 6, 12:40 pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote:
On 1/06/11 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:

I believe the same statements could be made about sex...

With or without the 30 weight oil?

Depends upon the weight of the subject. 30 weight is certainly
considered a universal solution (if you will...), but some may work
well with 5W30, while others require 10W30. Some - freaking gear
lube! I suppose to some degree, it depends on their cold start
characteristics...

--

-Mike-


Try to avoid synthetics...as well as synthetic oil.

Correct! The extended mileage characteristics of synthetic can come back to
haunt you. You may wish for the days of a more frequent oil change...

--

-Mike-

On 1/06/11 2:37 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote:
On 1/06/11 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:


I believe the same statements could be made about sex...

With or without the 30 weight oil?

Depends upon the weight of the subject. 30 weight is certainly
considered a universal solution (if you will...), but some may work
well with 5W30, while others require 10W30. Some - freaking gear
lube! I suppose to some degree, it depends on their cold start
characteristics...

Real men opt for axle grease

Nothing like a good lube job. :-)

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 12:16:45 -0500, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 1/06/11 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
I believe the same statements could be made about sex...

With or without the 30 weight oil?

CRISCO, you fuels! And give her the ring out of the Cracker Back Jox
(on easy monthly payments, just sign here).

--
A smile is the shortest distance between two people.
-- Victor Borge

On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 09:56:58 -0800, WayneJ
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 09:42:15 -0800, Mike Marlow
wrote:


Consider both. Each one has its own application. Neither will do all of
the job the way that the other will.


I agree, Mike both would be best and that is likely what I'll do in the
future. At this time I can only buy one and the palm sander looks to be
better for my immediate needs.

I'm just curious, Wayne, but what does the orbital do better for you
than a ROS would? If it's just to do corners, you may already have a
finish sander for that: HF Multifunction tool. If not, get one.
They're really, really handy. You simply must have one in your tool
stable before you need it, and once you have one, you'll find tons
more things to use it on.

--
A smile is the shortest distance between two people.
-- Victor Borge

On Thu, 6 Jan 2011 10:29:16 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:

On Jan 6, 11:10*am, "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast
dot net wrote:
"Swingman" wrote



(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand with
the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project, ...

Where can I buy one of these "by hand sanders"? *G

220 volt 3 phase only and don't forget to run a grounding wire through
your pant legs.

Wrapped around your main grounding rod and the boys, I expect?

--
A smile is the shortest distance between two people.
-- Victor Borge

Robatoy wrote in news:09672e90-cf38-4124-98bd-
:


Great minds and all that rot... fools etc.G

BUT!... I keep grabbing this thing: Bosch 1297DK. Not as aggressive as
a ROS, but it always sits on my bench, ready with a sheet of fresh 120
and I just love that little thing. (I also own 3 Festool sanders and a
variety of bigger and smaller stuff.)
With the adaptor, it is as dust-free as it gets, considering. 90%?
If I HAD to have just one sander for smaller work, that Bosch would be
it. I just wish it fit my hands like a SpeedBloc, but..*cough, cough*

I went out and bought one of these tonight. Thanks for the suggestion,
Robatoy. There's very little vibration at my hand (which has been one of
my biggest problems with sanders) and the dust collection is pretty good.
I used to use a B&D Mouse (no dust collection) and expected everything to
be dusty when I got done.

Puckdropper

"WayneJ" wrote in message
newsp.vox88hgjnatzq9@dellilah...
On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 14:54:02 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:



I'm just curious, Wayne, but what does the orbital do better for you
than a ROS would? If it's just to do corners, you may already have a
finish sander for that: HF Multifunction tool. If not, get one.
They're really, really handy. You simply must have one in your tool
stable before you need it, and once you have one, you'll find tons
more things to use it on.

At this time I don't have a sander suitable for finish work, and have a
couple of honey-do projects that I need one for. After looking at all the
replies to my original question, I decided that having both sanders would
be the best plan, but right now I can buy only one.

The random orbital is more aggressive and could be a little easier for me
to accidentally cause a problem. Also a little more difficult to work with
in tight areas. The multifunction tool and a random orbital might well be
a very good choice for the future, but for my present situation, limited
to buying a single tool at this time, the palm sander seems better.

The random orbital sander and a multifunction tool are on the list for
future purchase, along with any number of other tools, but for now will
have to wait.

WayneJ

Good choice, not to mention that the operating cost of the palm sander is
much less.
A sanding disk for a ROS costs about 0.60 plus cents each. A 1/4 sheet of
sand paper cost
around 0.20 cents each when you cut a sheet in four.. Try using a P80 or
P100 No-Fil Adalox with a good quality palm sander.
you will see how fast it can remove material.

On Jan 6, 11:48*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Robatoy wrote in news:09672e90-cf38-4124-98bd-
:



Great minds and all that rot... fools etc.G

BUT!... I keep grabbing this thing: Bosch 1297DK. Not as aggressive as
a ROS, but it always sits on my bench, ready with a sheet of fresh 120
and I just love that little thing. (I also own 3 Festool sanders and a
variety of bigger and smaller stuff.)
With the adaptor, it is as dust-free as it gets, considering. 90%?
If I HAD to have just one sander for smaller work, that Bosch would be
it. I just wish it fit my hands like a SpeedBloc, but..*cough, cough*

I went out and bought one of these tonight. *Thanks for the suggestion,
Robatoy. *There's very little vibration at my hand (which has been one of
my biggest problems with sanders) and the dust collection is pretty good. *
I used to use a B&D Mouse (no dust collection) and expected everything to
be dusty when I got done.

Puckdropper

I bought mine at Lowe's in Port Huron MI for just 49.00 USD. I did
wait a long time for that adaptor though.
Glad you like it.
I bought a bundle of hole punches at the local HF equivalent and stuck
the (IIRC 7/16"?) in my drill press. I then used a supplied pattern
piece of sandpaper and, with the DP running, I punched a whole lot of
sheets, 4 at the time and made a supply of them. I don't like the
supplied punch that much, although it works fine.

On Jan 7, 1:27*pm, "Denis M" wrote:

Try using a P80 or
P100 No-Fil Adalox with a good quality *palm sander.
you will see how fast it can remove material.

For some silly reason, and I have observed this before (even mentioned
it in here, I think) 120 cuts better than either 80 or 100.. on wood
that is... that is using off-the shelf Norton. Certainly 80 grit just
makes a mess of scratches which you have to get to the bottom of,
using 120...might as well go 120 from the beginning, I figgur.

YMMV or YKMV if Canuckistani.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 06:53:37 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

I've prefinished a few projects prior to assembly, and that can be very
handy, too.

That's my normal method. Not only is the sanding and finishing a lot
easier, any glue squeezed out is easily popped off.

I have trouble even imagining why anyone would finish after assembly.

For me I prefer to finish after assembly except for rare occasions where a
project may have different stain colors. I prefer to not have to worry
about keeping the finish off of the sopts that will be glued. On the flip
side of your comment. ;-) can you imagine painting a house before the
walls are erected?





Of course, I do need to do the occasional touch up to fix something I
scuffed/scratched/dinged during assembly, but if I'm careful I can
usually avoid that.


And that is another reason, I don't worry about the scratches, they all get
taken care of during the final sanding just before the finish is applied.

"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote in message
eb.com...


"Swingman" wrote

(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand with
the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project, ...

Where can I buy one of these "by hand sanders"? G



http://www.festoolusa.com/products/s...rd-495967.html

On Jan 7, 2:41*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message

...

On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 06:53:37 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

I've prefinished a few projects prior to assembly, and that can be very
handy, too.

That's my normal method. *Not only is the sanding and finishing a lot
easier, any glue squeezed out is easily popped off.

I have trouble even imagining why anyone would finish after assembly.

For me I prefer to finish after assembly except for rare occasions where a
project may have different stain colors. *I prefer to not have to worry
about keeping the finish off of the sopts that will be glued. *On the flip
side of your comment. *;-) *can you imagine painting a house before the
walls are erected?



Of course, I do need to do the occasional touch up to fix something I
scuffed/scratched/dinged during assembly, but if I'm careful I can
usually avoid that.

And that is another reason, I don't worry about the scratches, they all get
taken care of during the final sanding just before the finish is applied.

BUT!.. If you spray your finishes. Blowback is NO fun when doing a
cabinet or drawers...much easier to finish first then assemble with
care. It makes for a much crisper assembly, IMNSHO.
Also, IMNSHO, stains go on much nicer in long swipes than having the
rags/brushes bunch up whenever it hits a shelf, or a back...

They also don't paint cars after they're fully assembled G [I know,
stupid comparison.]

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Jan 7, 1:27 pm, "Denis M" wrote:

Try using a P80 or
P100 No-Fil Adalox with a good quality palm sander.
you will see how fast it can remove material.

For some silly reason, and I have observed this before (even mentioned
it in here, I think) 120 cuts better than either 80 or 100.. on wood
that is... that is using off-the shelf Norton. Certainly 80 grit just
makes a mess of scratches which you have to get to the bottom of,
using 120...might as well go 120 from the beginning, I figgur.

YMMV or YKMV if Canuckistani.

Yes, P80 or P100 makes a mess of scratches. I only use it
for fast removal. Not to mention that a carbide scrapper does a
good job at removing coatings
With oak, ash, maple or pine freshly out of the surface planer
I adjust the grit as required. At the end I finish with P220.
Before applying a coasting I like to do hand sanding.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote in message
eb.com...


"Swingman" wrote

(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand with
the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project, ...

Where can I buy one of these "by hand sanders"? G



http://www.festoolusa.com/products/s...rd-495967.html



A Festool sanding block? Probably cost at least $100.

"CW" wrote in message
m...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote in
message eb.com...


"Swingman" wrote

(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand with
the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project, ...

Where can I buy one of these "by hand sanders"? G



http://www.festoolusa.com/products/s...rd-495967.html



A Festool sanding block? Probably cost at least $100.

IIRC $25

"CW" wrote in message
m...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote in
message eb.com...


"Swingman" wrote

(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand with
the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project, ...

Where can I buy one of these "by hand sanders"? G



http://www.festoolusa.com/products/s...rd-495967.html



A Festool sanding block? Probably cost at least $100.

Beat me too it.

That is what I was going to say.

On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 13:41:24 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 06:53:37 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

I've prefinished a few projects prior to assembly, and that can be very
handy, too.

That's my normal method. Not only is the sanding and finishing a lot
easier, any glue squeezed out is easily popped off.

I have trouble even imagining why anyone would finish after assembly.

For me I prefer to finish after assembly except for rare occasions where a
project may have different stain colors. I prefer to not have to worry
about keeping the finish off of the sopts that will be glued.

Finish before machining, too, Big L.


On the flip
side of your comment. ;-) can you imagine painting a house before the
walls are erected?

Sure, why not? Do all the siding and trimwork before hanging. Much
easier.

--
A smile is the shortest distance between two people.
-- Victor Borge

On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 14:37:07 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"CW" wrote in message
om...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote in
message eb.com...


"Swingman" wrote

(That said, and with furniture, I make a final, light pass by hand with
the highest grit spec'd, regardless of the size of the project, ...

Where can I buy one of these "by hand sanders"? G



http://www.festoolusa.com/products/s...rd-495967.html



A Festool sanding block? Probably cost at least $100.

IIRC $25

Per month on a -how- many year loan?

--
A smile is the shortest distance between two people.
-- Victor Borge

"Mike Marlow" wrote

I use every tool that can make my work easier, but whether it's painting a
car, painting a piece of cherry, staining a piece of pine, or pouring on a
quart of used 30 weight engine oil, it's that last hand to product contact
that makes sure everything is going to look right. I believe the same
statements could be made about sex...

Close.

I believe a tongue is one of the most important tools while inspecting for
sex.

I have yet to use on a piece of furniture for the last inspection pass,
however. ;-)
--
Jim in NC

On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 02:06:05 -0500, "Morgans"
wrote:


"Mike Marlow" wrote

I use every tool that can make my work easier, but whether it's painting a
car, painting a piece of cherry, staining a piece of pine, or pouring on a
quart of used 30 weight engine oil, it's that last hand to product contact
that makes sure everything is going to look right. I believe the same
statements could be made about sex...

Close.

I believe a tongue is one of the most important tools while inspecting for
sex.

It would be interesting to see your face when you found yourself
licking the wrong sex...

--
You and I have a rendezvous with destiny. We will
preserve for our children this, the last best hope
of man on Earth, or we will sentence them to take
the last step into a thousand years of darkness.?
-- Ronald Reagan

Remeber... it is "tongue in groove cedar" Not with an "s" as in "seater"



"Morgans" wrote in message
...
Close.

I believe a tongue is one of the most important tools while inspecting for
sex.

I have yet to use on a piece of furniture for the last inspection pass,
however. ;-)
--
Jim in NC


"Mike Marlow" wrote

I use every tool that can make my work easier, but whether it's painting a
car, painting a piece of cherry, staining a piece of pine, or pouring on a
quart of used 30 weight engine oil, it's that last hand to product contact
that makes sure everything is going to look right. I believe the same
statements could be made about sex...