I have a Rockler HVLP Spray gun and compressor, bought it from an old friend
that never used it. It came with 2 needle valves. Have been using it and
really like the results I get. I ended taken the needle valve out to clean
and noticed its pretty blunted and the extra one is very pointed. I can not
locate any size marking on either and was wondering if the blunted one is
because of use or could that just be the way it is? Could paint and air
really blunt a brass needle valve that fast. Probably used it 20-30 times on
different customer projects.
Also spray mostly Latex on doors and some built ins. What would be the best
tip to use the blunted one or the pointed one?

Thanks,
Rich

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On Dec 18, 11:42*am, Rich wrote:
I have a Rockler HVLP Spray gun and compressor, bought it from an old friend

In regards to your question I suppose you should just as Rockler or
maybe go online and see if they have pictures of replacement needles.

I have a question. Can you spray latex OK with this gun? I have some
built-ins and 8 interior raised panel doors to paint soon and I would
really like to spray them. My only experience with airless house
sprayers seems like they would not be the best for such detail. I have
heard good and bad results about spraying latex with HVLP.

On 12/18/2010 5:33 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Dec 18, 11:42 am, wrote:
I have a Rockler HVLP Spray gun and compressor, bought it from an old friend

In regards to your question I suppose you should just as Rockler or
maybe go online and see if they have pictures of replacement needles.

I have a question. Can you spray latex OK with this gun? I have some
built-ins and 8 interior raised panel doors to paint soon and I would
really like to spray them. My only experience with airless house
sprayers seems like they would not be the best for such detail. I have
heard good and bad results about spraying latex with HVLP.

FWIW, Sherwin-Williams carries the following Graco "Prospray" technology:

http://www.graco.com/Internet/T_PDB....chView/ProShot

My residential paint subcontractor of 9 years uses the cordless one to
paint doors and loves it. AAMOF, he sprayed/refinished my front door
with it yesterday and it was pretty damned amazing.

The tailed model:

http://www.graco.com/Internet/T_PDB....w/TrueCoatPlus

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

SonomaProducts.com wrote:

On Dec 18, 11:42 am, Rich wrote:
I have a Rockler HVLP Spray gun and compressor, bought it from an old
friend

In regards to your question I suppose you should just as Rockler or
maybe go online and see if they have pictures of replacement needles.

I have a question. Can you spray latex OK with this gun? I have some
built-ins and 8 interior raised panel doors to paint soon and I would
really like to spray them. My only experience with airless house
sprayers seems like they would not be the best for such detail. I have
heard good and bad results about spraying latex with HVLP.

Ive used it many times spraying Latex and it worked great. Had to thin it a
bit with water but had no problems. I'm pretty new at spraying but I like
the results I got.
This is the one but its gone up a lot since the time I bought mine.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10469

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

Rich wrote:
I have a Rockler HVLP Spray gun and compressor, bought it from an old
friend that never used it. It came with 2 needle valves. Have been
using it and really like the results I get. I ended taken the needle
valve out to clean and noticed its pretty blunted and the extra one
is very pointed. I can not locate any size marking on either and was
wondering if the blunted one is because of use or could that just be
the way it is? Could paint and air really blunt a brass needle valve
that fast. Probably used it 20-30 times on different customer
projects.

Not very likely at all that it is from use. Needles do not wear down from
use. Most likely designed that way. Check with the manufacturer. (why
don't people just do that anymore?). Glad you are getting good results -
post some pics if you can. Always interested in seeing what people are able
to get from different rigs.

Also spray mostly Latex on doors and some built ins. What would be
the best tip to use the blunted one or the pointed one?


Latex??? Sigh... Oh well... we'll bring you along in time too...

--

-Mike-

On Dec 18, 9:13*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:


Latex??? *Sigh... *Oh well... we'll bring you along in time too...

*chuckle*

Robert

Mike Marlow wrote:

Rich wrote:
I have a Rockler HVLP Spray gun and compressor, bought it from an old
friend that never used it. It came with 2 needle valves. Have been
using it and really like the results I get. I ended taken the needle
valve out to clean and noticed its pretty blunted and the extra one
is very pointed. I can not locate any size marking on either and was
wondering if the blunted one is because of use or could that just be
the way it is? Could paint and air really blunt a brass needle valve
that fast. Probably used it 20-30 times on different customer
projects.

Not very likely at all that it is from use. Needles do not wear down from
use. Most likely designed that way. Check with the manufacturer. (why
don't people just do that anymore?). Glad you are getting good results -
post some pics if you can. Always interested in seeing what people are
able to get from different rigs.

There is very little info on or about this spray rig. I was able to get more
info from the "review" section on Rocklers Site. The smaller tip used to
spray finishes and stains. Larger to spray paints which I kinda figured out
on my own but wanted a confirmation. As far as Latex goes most of my pieces
are painted white which seems is a trend these days. I paint my crown
molding with this gun and most of my built ins. My current customer project
is closing in a brick fireplace and building a Mission Style Mantel which I
will post pics and add to my website. www.rentmyhusband.biz


Also spray mostly Latex on doors and some built ins. What would be
the best tip to use the blunted one or the pointed one?


Latex??? Sigh... Oh well... we'll bring you along in time too...

What would be a better alternative to latex. I have also heard that once a
door for example has been painted with latex you can only paint it with
latex because you can't sand latex, it balls up. This alone is a good
argument not to use latex on anything that may need to be repainted at a
later date. Lot of my painting is done indoors and I live in California so
getting Oil Based and Enamel paint is getting hard to find. I did use
something that was recommended here but it seemed like it took forever to
dry. Believe a new product, cross between an enamel and latex that you
thinned with Mineral Spirits.

Thanks for any info you can supply!!!!
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On Dec 19, 10:06*am, Rich

I paint my crown
molding with this gun and most of my built ins. My current customer project
is closing in a brick fireplace and building a Mission Style Mantel which I
will post pics and add to my website.www.rentmyhusband.biz

Sorry, Rich. When I went to take a peek at your work, the link didn't
work. Got the famous "not found" message.

What would be a better alternative to latex. I have also heard that
once a
door for example has been painted with latex you can only paint it with
latex because you can't sand latex, it balls up. This alone is a good
argument not to use latex on anything that may need to be repainted at a
later date. Lot of my painting is done indoors and I live in California so
getting Oil Based and Enamel paint is getting hard to find. I did use
something that was recommended here but it seemed like it took forever to
dry. Believe a new product, cross between an enamel and latex that you
thinned with Mineral Spirits.

Thanks for any info you can supply!!!!

Finishing materials are a matter of taste and requirements. I use
latex on walls, and use latex on previously painted surfaces. Nothing
else. I personally like to shoot the high performance finishes that
are solvent based. For me, the are more predictable, more flexible,
and give a better end product. I don't use the long dry enamels that
take forever to dry, but know exactly how annoying and inconvenient
that can be.

Personally, I feel bad for you living in California. I am not being
sarcastic; finishing out there for the urban remodeler and builder has
to be a nightmare. I have read the requirements that are in some
places such as CERTIFIED spray guns that limit the output,
requirements for exhausting gases (even in a remodel), and on an on.
That is a different environment that I live in; common sense (or lack
thereof!) prevails. Unless in a commercial environment, it is up to
the contractor to supply and use the correct safety equipment and
protocols.

A couple of thoughts. First, you can paint latex over oil based
paint. It is a long, painful process that requires *a lot* of extra
work, but it can be done. In that same thought, some of today's
premium enamels are getting a lot better at sticking to just about any
surface.

Second, you need to tailor your finishing process to your client's
expectations of performance, your personal skill level at delivering a
quality product in a timely fashion, and product availability.

I have refinished kitchens where the clients literally moved out of
the house while we were working. I have had folks that want full
access to their house after they get home for the day. If I can work
as I want and not worry about fumes, I always use a good solvent based
enamel. I spray as much as possible, and brush as needed. Recoat
times vary by product, but fume evacuation can be a problem. However,
I like the hard, abrasion resistant finishes solvents leave much
better than I do the softer, more porous finish that latex enamels
provide. But if I can't block off a room and the folks are fume
sensitive, I use latex as needed.

To me, the only two things that latex provides are **easy**
application and short recoat times. With that in mind, one of my
really hot enamels (spray only) is a 20 minute recoat; that means you
can have one coat of primer and three coats of hard enamel finish in
one long day!

As far as recoating, I never worry about that. If I shoot enamel on
doors, cabinets, etc., I will do it again. If it is on a new project
and as you said as example crown molding, I will still shoot solvent
based if possible. If I am called back for a color change or
modification and don't have the run of the site, I will hand brush
oil. If there is a latex substrate to go over, if I am spraying, I
will use oil. If there is a latex substrate and I am brushing or
rolling, I will use latex.

Again, I understand your needs and limitations are different with the
stricter VOC adherence requirements, etc. when spraying.

If it were me, I would get myself down to the local paint stores (NOT
H Depot) and see what the like of Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore,
etc., have to offer. Likely if they are a large company of industrial
finishes as well, they will have some good solutions for you if you
just ask.

As far as your HVLP unit goes, on that smaller unit (two impellers
most likely) you will need to use the largest aircap (correct term for
that part) they provided. With that in mind, you may still need to
thin a bit. Even if the gun shoots your chosen latex well, thin it
about 10% - 15% by volume just to try it out. The thinner paint lays
out much better, and at those small amounts of thinning you won't have
any problems with your color matching.

Good luck with your business!

Robert

wrote:

On Dec 19, 10:06 am, Rich

I paint my crown
molding with this gun and most of my built ins. My current customer
project is closing in a brick fireplace and building a Mission Style
Mantel which I will post pics and add to my website.www.rentmyhusband.biz

Sorry, Rich. When I went to take a peek at your work, the link didn't
work. Got the famous "not found" message.

http://rentmyhusband.biz/


What would be a better alternative to latex. I have also heard that
once a
door for example has been painted with latex you can only paint it with
latex because you can't sand latex, it balls up. This alone is a good
argument not to use latex on anything that may need to be repainted at a
later date. Lot of my painting is done indoors and I live in California
so getting Oil Based and Enamel paint is getting hard to find. I did use
something that was recommended here but it seemed like it took forever to
dry. Believe a new product, cross between an enamel and latex that you
thinned with Mineral Spirits.

Thanks for any info you can supply!!!!

Finishing materials are a matter of taste and requirements. I use
latex on walls, and use latex on previously painted surfaces. Nothing
else. I personally like to shoot the high performance finishes that
are solvent based. For me, the are more predictable, more flexible,
and give a better end product. I don't use the long dry enamels that
take forever to dry, but know exactly how annoying and inconvenient
that can be.

Personally, I feel bad for you living in California. I am not being
sarcastic; finishing out there for the urban remodeler and builder has
to be a nightmare. I have read the requirements that are in some
places such as CERTIFIED spray guns that limit the output,
requirements for exhausting gases (even in a remodel), and on an on.
That is a different environment that I live in; common sense (or lack
thereof!) prevails. Unless in a commercial environment, it is up to
the contractor to supply and use the correct safety equipment and
protocols.

A couple of thoughts. First, you can paint latex over oil based
paint. It is a long, painful process that requires *a lot* of extra
work, but it can be done. In that same thought, some of today's
premium enamels are getting a lot better at sticking to just about any
surface.

Second, you need to tailor your finishing process to your client's
expectations of performance, your personal skill level at delivering a
quality product in a timely fashion, and product availability.

I have refinished kitchens where the clients literally moved out of
the house while we were working. I have had folks that want full
access to their house after they get home for the day. If I can work
as I want and not worry about fumes, I always use a good solvent based
enamel. I spray as much as possible, and brush as needed. Recoat
times vary by product, but fume evacuation can be a problem. However,
I like the hard, abrasion resistant finishes solvents leave much
better than I do the softer, more porous finish that latex enamels
provide. But if I can't block off a room and the folks are fume
sensitive, I use latex as needed.

To me, the only two things that latex provides are **easy**
application and short recoat times. With that in mind, one of my
really hot enamels (spray only) is a 20 minute recoat; that means you
can have one coat of primer and three coats of hard enamel finish in
one long day!

As far as recoating, I never worry about that. If I shoot enamel on
doors, cabinets, etc., I will do it again. If it is on a new project
and as you said as example crown molding, I will still shoot solvent
based if possible. If I am called back for a color change or
modification and don't have the run of the site, I will hand brush
oil. If there is a latex substrate to go over, if I am spraying, I
will use oil. If there is a latex substrate and I am brushing or
rolling, I will use latex.

Again, I understand your needs and limitations are different with the
stricter VOC adherence requirements, etc. when spraying.

If it were me, I would get myself down to the local paint stores (NOT
H Depot) and see what the like of Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore,
etc., have to offer. Likely if they are a large company of industrial
finishes as well, they will have some good solutions for you if you
just ask.

As far as your HVLP unit goes, on that smaller unit (two impellers
most likely) you will need to use the largest aircap (correct term for
that part) they provided. With that in mind, you may still need to
thin a bit. Even if the gun shoots your chosen latex well, thin it
about 10% - 15% by volume just to try it out. The thinner paint lays
out much better, and at those small amounts of thinning you won't have
any problems with your color matching.

Good luck with your business!

Robert
Thanks Robert, Lots of great info here. Yes California is really sucking
these days. Have thought about relocating to Durango, Colo. but I'm afraid
many of the idiots that lived here now live there. Customers that I have run
into, (lots high end folks) don't have a clue what they need or want. Just
make it look great and I won't complain seems to be their motto. Or they
just can't make up there mind. Give them to many choices and the brain goes
on overload! Which I believe happens everywhere.

try this web address. http://rentmyhusband.biz/
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

I saw one of those at Lowes during my Xmas shopping and it looks
like the real deal....

That's on my next to purchase list.


My residential paint subcontractor of 9 years uses the cordless one to
paint doors and loves it. AAMOF, he sprayed/refinished my front door
with it yesterday and it was pretty damned amazing.

The tailed model:

http://www.graco.com/Internet/T_PDB....w/TrueCoatPlus