Hello folks

Have had moderate success on projects such as making 6 mission
bookcases and have done a lot of other stuff so I'm moderately
confident to attempt a paying project for a friend. He wants a wall
to wall laminate counter top - Ok that seems easy and I searched on
how to do that (use sticks to hold off while assembling put edges on
first, trim, lay top, trim with angle bit, file to finish if
needed).

The issue comes up with the base. Figured on using some common baltic
birch plywood and Wilsonart laminate to match his coffee bar that was
done elsewhere.

He wants a "built-in" type. Its about 90" wide, I'm using 4 base
supports, they will be open with shelves for storage. I designed base
supports that look like cabinet sides, with toe kick and everything.
Was thinking of using my new Kreg kit to assemble the bottom fixed
shelves and a back board. But.....here's where things get sketchy.
How to best do some of the lamination and still be able to assemble?

Best I can figure, I'd make the fixed bottom shelves, laminate, drill
bare bottom side for pocket screws. Then assemble on-site the
vertical sides and add a 6" wide plain birch cross-rear support with
pocket screws for stability at the top edge of the rear of cabinet and
mount with pocket screws. Then spread glue and laminate the inside of
the vertical supports, leaving overhang at front and top inside to be
trimmed with a router and a fein type flat saw (are the harbor freight
ones OK for occasional use? I'm running out of tool money lately).
I'll end up with bare wood only where I can't trim close enough to the
top/rear support. If I laminate first, there won't be anyway to
easily use Kreg is there?

Also, I was going to use a rockler jig I had from my bookcases to make
adjustable shelf holes, but have not done that on Laminate, figure its
not too hard.

I have a combination blade on my tablesaw, would this be OK for
cutting laminate - its reasonably sharp but have not sharpened since
new and built the above bookcases and some other small projects with
it.

I understand I may need like 2-3 coats of contact cement to make sure
it adheres.

I have a bearing 1/4" 45 angle bit for edges, or will the flush cut
bearing bit make a good junction? I have heard that people use
particle board as its very smooth - granted it is, but this project is
holding heavy printers and supplies like boxes of paper, so I wanted
to make it 2x .75" baltic birch plywood underneath with a front edge
board - or can one just glue to the side of plywood? Also, should I
sand and give a quick poly wipe before gluing the main counter top to
make sure it adheres?

TIA - Scott

I have a combination blade on my tablesaw, would this be OK for
cutting laminate - its reasonably sharp but have not sharpened since
new and built the above bookcases and some other small projects with
it.
TIA - Scott

Kind of hard to follow all of that. What I can say is that laminate
chips quick a bit when cut in a table saw with almost any blade but
better with a laminate specific blade. Professionals have a
specialized scoring blade in their table saws that is a little blade
at the front of the saw aligned with the main blad that just cuts
through the laminate.

I think maybe taping the joint before cutting it can help.

On Dec 6, 11:58*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I have a combination blade on my tablesaw, would this be OK for
cutting laminate - its reasonably sharp but have not sharpened since
new and built the above bookcases and some other small projects with
it.
TIA - Scott

Kind of hard to follow all of that. What I can say is that laminate
chips quick a bit when cut in a table saw with almost any blade but
better with a laminate specific blade. Professionals have a
specialized scoring blade in their table saws that is a little blade
at the front of the saw aligned with the main blad that just cuts
through the laminate.

I think maybe taping the joint before cutting it can help.

Yea, I have read that cutting with a router bit along a straight edge
is preferred. Maybe try that first. Heard scoring and bending not so
good.

Basically question is: If you are trying to make laminate parts and
assemble, is there a suggested technique or anything for parts that
are not totally covered in laminate, say where a joint would glue
together? Its pretty easy when you make a countertop and just cover
the whole top, but if you need a strip where you have say, a divider
on a shelf, you would have to cut that in or have the divider attach
over the top of the laminate. I think I have thought through the
order of assembly by writing my question actually, so I may have
answered it myself!

And has anyone had any experience with this cheap knock-off of a Fein
tool? I normally buy pretty good stuff like Hitachi, Dewalt, PC, but
sometimes this stuff is OK for occassional use and given my many
hobbies this would probably be ok. Fein is damn expensive.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

Scott wrote in news:5cf88006-9694-44b3-9d30-
:

*snip*


And has anyone had any experience with this cheap knock-off of a Fein
tool? I normally buy pretty good stuff like Hitachi, Dewalt, PC, but
sometimes this stuff is OK for occassional use and given my many
hobbies this would probably be ok. Fein is damn expensive.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

The HF multitool is well known around here. The biggest problem is
everyone wants to make breaking changes to the blade connections, so one
manufacturer's blade does not work with another's tool.

The general concensus seems to be it's worth the money for the tool. The
tool is one of those that you don't need until you need it and then no
other tool will do.

Puckdropper

On Mon, 6 Dec 2010 10:45:38 -0800 (PST), Scott
wrote:

On Dec 6, 11:58*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I have a combination blade on my tablesaw, would this be OK for

How many numbers is the combination? groan


cutting laminate - its reasonably sharp but have not sharpened since
new and built the above bookcases and some other small projects with
it.
TIA - Scott

Kind of hard to follow all of that. What I can say is that laminate
chips quick a bit when cut in a table saw with almost any blade but
better with a laminate specific blade.

I have the opposite luck with 'em. With HF carbide blades, even.
I get clean cuts with a $2 HF 7-1/4" 24T blade. Just don't let the
blade extend beyond the cut more than 1 RCH.


Professionals have a
specialized scoring blade in their table saws that is a little blade
at the front of the saw aligned with the main blad that just cuts
through the laminate.

I think maybe taping the joint before cutting it can help.

I use a new carbide combo blade and have never had a problem. for
rough cuts. I finish cut with a bearing-guided router bit.


Yea, I have read that cutting with a router bit along a straight edge
is preferred. Maybe try that first. Heard scoring and bending not so
good.

Scoring and snapping works, but only for rough cutting.


Basically question is: If you are trying to make laminate parts and
assemble, is there a suggested technique or anything for parts that
are not totally covered in laminate, say where a joint would glue
together? Its pretty easy when you make a countertop and just cover
the whole top, but if you need a strip where you have say, a divider
on a shelf, you would have to cut that in or have the divider attach
over the top of the laminate. I think I have thought through the
order of assembly by writing my question actually, so I may have
answered it myself!

And has anyone had any experience with this cheap knock-off of a Fein
tool?

Not with laminate, but it gives me ideas...


I normally buy pretty good stuff like Hitachi, Dewalt, PC, but
sometimes this stuff is OK for occassional use and given my many
hobbies this would probably be ok. Fein is damn expensive.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

Just Buy One! They're outstanding, and the more you use one, the more
uses you find for it. At $25 (frequent sales), they're a Must Have
tool.

--
You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.
--Jack London