I have decided to take on building a kitchen island as my first real
furniture project. I was originally going to use cherry from a tree
we felled on the property. But after milling some of it I realized
that this is going to take a looooong time. So, I'm now thinking of
going instead with birds-eye maple and paduk. The reason for this is
I already build a bar top in the kitchen using these woods:

http://jtpryan.smugmug.com/Woodworki...82_tU2G8-L.jpg

The current hand-me down island can be seen in the background. I want
to build something like this:

http://jtpryan.smugmug.com/Woodworki...14555892_dCd5m

The top in the example is not what we will do, we are still thinking
about that. Anyway, the basic design of the base in the picture is
what I am looking for, but it is the material's and where to use them
I am looking for suggestions about.

Thanks
Jim

what I am looking for, but it is the material's and where to use them
I am looking for suggestions about.

Thanks
Jim

I am not big on multi-colored furniture pieces although it is clearly
a matter of taste and it can be done well at times.

Maybe build it all from Maple and put a bead of the Padi along the
bottom edge of the whole case and along the top edge of the drawers
and doors. Just make a strip about 3/16" think and an inch wide and
round over the front edge. Then apply it in those few locations. Also
add a similar bead at the bottom and maybe a slightly thicker piece at
the top of the pilasters. Finally, if you use pegged M&T you can add
padi pegs on the doors and case work or maybe even raised pyramid
pags, ala-Greene and Greene.

On Nov 8, 7:27*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
what I am looking for, but it is the material's and where to use them
I am looking for suggestions about.

Thanks
Jim

I am not big on multi-colored furniture pieces although it is clearly
a matter of taste and it can be done well at times.

Maybe build it all from Maple and put a bead of the Padi along the
bottom edge of the whole case and along the top edge of the drawers
and doors. Just make a strip about 3/16" think and an inch wide and
round over the front edge. Then apply it in those few locations. Also
add a similar bead at the bottom and maybe a slightly thicker piece at
the top of the pilasters. Finally, if you use pegged M&T you can add
padi pegs on the doors and case work or maybe even raised pyramid
pags, ala-Greene and Greene.

I know what you mean. I was thinking maybe somewhere between the two
suggestions. Perhaps maple throughout other then the legs and the
braces for the top? Can you explain more about your last sentence:

" Finally, if you use pegged M&T you can add padi pegs on the doors
and case work or maybe even raised pyramid pags, ala-Greene and
Greene."

I can't visualize what you mean. Would you have a link to an example?

On 11/9/2010 5:32 AM, jtpr wrote:
On Nov 8, 7:27 pm, "SonomaProducts.com"

" Finally, if you use pegged M&T you can add padi pegs on the doors
and case work or maybe even raised pyramid pags, ala-Greene and
Greene."

I can't visualize what you mean. Would you have a link to an example?

Basically he is suggesting you use contrasting woods to peg your M&T
joints, a la Greene & Greene, turn of the last century Arts and Crafts
gurus primarily known for their work on the Gamble House:

http://www.gamblehouse.org/

Darrell Peart, who posted here occasionally in years past is a shining,
modern practitioner of the G&G style:

http://www.furnituremaker.com/

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Tue, 09 Nov 2010 06:16:20 -0600, Swingman wrote:

On 11/9/2010 5:32 AM, jtpr wrote:
On Nov 8, 7:27 pm, "SonomaProducts.com"

" Finally, if you use pegged M&T you can add padi pegs on the doors
and case work or maybe even raised pyramid pags, ala-Greene and
Greene."

I can't visualize what you mean. Would you have a link to an example?

Basically he is suggesting you use contrasting woods to peg your M&T
joints, a la Greene & Greene, turn of the last century Arts and Crafts
gurus primarily known for their work on the Gamble House:

http://www.gamblehouse.org/

Darrell Peart, who posted here occasionally in years past is a shining,
modern practitioner of the G&G style:

http://www.furnituremaker.com/

Indeed he is. He's also an author:
http://www.amazon.com/Greene-Design-...tt_at_ep_dpi_1

Robert Lang also has books on Craftsman/A&C/G&G styles:
http://fwd4.me/Y7F all his books.

--
Education is when you read the fine print.
Experience is what you get if you don't.
-- Pete Seeger

I can't visualize what you mean. *Would you have a link to an example?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I was saying either a typical round peg in the contrasting darker
color, even faux ones if you don't actually use mortise and tenon
joints. Or the standing square pegs like Greene & Greene, which
Darrell Peart is doing. Darrel does a classic sort of puffy look and
other people do a more ridgid little pyramid.

You can see here on the chest if you scroll down the puufy versions of
square ebony pegs on African Mahogany. http://www.furnituremaker.com/Blanket_Chest.htm

Here you can see a more squared off version
http://homesteadcraftsman.com/market...p_image&pID=30

On Nov 9, 1:03*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I can't visualize what you mean. *Would you have a link to an example?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I was saying either a typical round peg in the contrasting darker
color, even faux ones if you don't actually use mortise and tenon
joints. Or the standing square pegs like Greene & Greene, which
Darrell Peart is doing. Darrel does a classic sort of puffy look and
other people do a more ridgid little pyramid.

You can see here on the chest if you scroll down the puufy versions of
square ebony pegs on African Mahogany.http://www.furnituremaker.com/Blanket_Chest.htm

Here you can see a more squared off versionhttp://homesteadcraftsman.com/market/index.php?main_page=popup_image&...

I see. Great suggestion, this I will do. Now, this is probably not
the brightest question, but what is the best way to join the sides to
the legs? I mean, if the rails are shorter then the sitles that means
that the side of the stile will run along the leg, so how is best to
hold it together, biscuits? If somebody can point me in the direction
of a similar plan where this is illustrated, that would be great.

-Jim