Nice looking easy to build lumber rack.

http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2010/02...autostart=true

Interesting. I'm not sure I'd trust the strength of plywood cleats
but I might try something like this.

Anyway I have some questions for the group / comments.

What is the preferred angle for french cleats. I had read before that
45 deg. was optimal. These I see are at 60 degrees. I can't see
having 2 differnt standards in one shop. The current ones I have are
at 45 but they have some torque on the brackets and some vibration.
They are part of the dust collector hanger.

The other comment - isn't there a lot of wasted space between shelves
with those mostrous brackets? Do they need to be that wide? Of
course it cuts down on the potential amount of wood stored and so
weight on the shelves.

And the third - does anybody actually move an upright after it is up.
Why go through all the trouble of the pegs etc. What kind of spacing
should one use? What is the maximum before I'll come back next year
(or 5 years hence) and find that the perfect board I've been saving is
less then straight.


On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 05:41:32 -0800 (PST), Limp Arbor
wrote:

Nice looking easy to build lumber rack.

http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2010/02...autostart=true

On 2/22/10 2:56 PM, Rob Morden wrote:

Interesting. I'm not sure I'd trust the strength of plywood cleats
but I might try something like this.


When you do the math on the weight spread out over that many square inches,
it's way stronger than it needs to be.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Feb 22, 2:56*pm, Rob Morden wrote:
Interesting. *I'm not sure I'd trust the strength of plywood cleats
but I might try something like this.

I saw that plan when I started planning mine. I thought it looked a
little flimsy overall.


Anyway I have some questions for the group / comments.

What is the preferred angle for french cleats. *I had read before that
45 deg. was optimal. *These I see are at 60 degrees. *I can't see
having 2 differnt standards in one shop. *The current ones I have are
at 45 but they have some torque on the brackets and some vibration.
They are part of the dust collector hanger.

I use 2x4s cut at 45 degrees. I am setting my entire garage shop up
on the french cleat system (well,except the lumber racks).

The other comment - isn't there a lot of wasted space between shelves
with those mostrous brackets? *Do they need to be that wide? *Of
course it cuts down on the potential amount of wood stored and so
weight on the shelves.


I built mine with uprights made of 2x4 sections sandwiched between two
full-length sections of 1x4. Each "shelf" is a 24" 2x4 that is
inserted in spaces in the vertical 2x4. Where the horizontal 2x4
(actually 4 degree up-tilt) protrudes from the verticals I screwed and
glued a 9"x"9 triangular gusset on each side. The gusset does
protrude into the 'storage' area but I doubt if I'll ever stack the
racks deep enough to matter. My horizontals average about 16" apart.
Loading 16" of hardwood is a lot of weight.

And the third - does anybody actually move an upright after it is up.
Why go through all the trouble of the pegs etc. *What kind of spacing
should one use? *What is the maximum before I'll come back next year
(or 5 years hence) and find that the perfect board I've been saving is
less then straight.

Don't plan to move mine they are bolted to the wall with 3/8" lag
screws.

Rob Morden wrote:

The other comment - isn't there a lot of wasted space between shelves
with those mostrous brackets? Do they need to be that wide? Of
course it cuts down on the potential amount of wood stored and so
weight on the shelves.

If you were clever, the supports could be adjustable. Holes through the
uprights and supports, plus a pin or bolt.

On 2/22/10 4:47 PM, HeyBub wrote:
Rob Morden wrote:

The other comment - isn't there a lot of wasted space between shelves
with those mostrous brackets? Do they need to be that wide? Of
course it cuts down on the potential amount of wood stored and so
weight on the shelves.

If you were clever, the supports could be adjustable. Holes through the
uprights and supports, plus a pin or bolt.


The Pinnacle Wood Rack is on sale at Woodcraft for 60 bucks, just FYI.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Rob Morden" wrote:

Interesting. I'm not sure I'd trust the strength of plywood cleats
but I might try something like this.

Why not?

The load is being carried by the fasteners in shear.

The ply is in compression at the cleat, NBD.


What is the preferred angle for french cleats. I had read before
that
45 deg. was optimal. These I see are at 60 degrees.

6 of one, half a dozen of the other.


The other comment - isn't there a lot of wasted space between
shelves
with those mostrous brackets?

7"?

Do they need to be that wide?

It works for me.

Seriously, 7" is really NBD for a cantilevered load like this design.

And the third - does anybody actually move an upright after it is
up.

Strictly personal preference.

If drilling a few extra holes is a problem, then don't do it.

36" spacing between verticals with 12" overhang on ends will go a long
way towards keeping your stock flat.

Lew

On Feb 22, 8:41*am, Limp Arbor wrote:
Nice looking easy to build lumber rack.

http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2010/02...rack/?autostar...

Kind of sorta similar to mine (two uprights sandwiching a bracket):

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/lumberstorage.php

Too much wasted space by the brackets.

Consider something 8-12" wide using iron pipe as the bracket. Drill
slightly angled holes to hold the pipe.