I've got a three year old Jet contractor saw with its standard fence.
Making fine adjustments to the fence is a pain - it moves on me when I
unlock it and I do a lot of trial and error tapping to nudge it over a
bit to get the cut just right. Then it usually moves again when I
re-lock it.

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Steve

http://www.biesemeyer.com/commer_fence/index.htm

Steve wrote:


Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

In article , (Steve) wrote:
I've got a three year old Jet contractor saw with its standard fence.
Making fine adjustments to the fence is a pain - it moves on me when I
unlock it and I do a lot of trial and error tapping to nudge it over a
bit to get the cut just right. Then it usually moves again when I
re-lock it.

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Jet makes a micro-adjusting fence (they call it the XACTA-Fence) for their
cabinet saws. That's what I have, and it works very very well. From what I see
on their web site, it appears that you could install one of these on your saw
as well, but you'd probably have to replace at least the front rail as well.

Then there are the Incra fences. Example:
http://www.incra.biz/Products/TSLS.html
I've seen those demonstrated at the WW shows. Very impressive... but you'd
better have a heavy wallet, though.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

I used to have an aftermarket Vega fence on my old Craftsman saw before I
bought a Unisaw with a Biesemeyer on it. I really miss the micro-adjustment
feature on the Vega though. www.vegawoodworking.com. The fence is as good
as a Biesemeyer (IMHO).
Think it's a great aftermarket fence, especially for a saw like yours.

Gary

"Steve" wrote in message
om...
I've got a three year old Jet contractor saw with its standard fence.
Making fine adjustments to the fence is a pain - it moves on me when I
unlock it and I do a lot of trial and error tapping to nudge it over a
bit to get the cut just right. Then it usually moves again when I
re-lock it.

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Steve

I just got one of these (biesemeyer commercial 30) and can't believe I
waited sooo long to get one. Definately a time saver. No more measuring in
4 places to make sure it's parallel, no more tapping, etc.

Definately worth the $300.

dave


"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
http://www.biesemeyer.com/commer_fence/index.htm

Steve wrote:


Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

hey dave, you wrote, "no tapping". when I need to adjust my Bies in
fine increments I tap it. Are you referring to tapping for another
reason? My Crapsman fence would rarely lock down parallel to the blade.

dave

ClemsonDave wrote:

I just got one of these (biesemeyer commercial 30) and can't believe I
waited sooo long to get one. Definately a time saver. No more measuring in
4 places to make sure it's parallel, no more tapping, etc.

Definately worth the $300.

dave


"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...

http://www.biesemeyer.com/commer_fence/index.htm

Steve wrote:



Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Steve,
Use a jointer for fine adjustments. Absent a jointer, use a hand jointer
plane. A contractor saw is just that, for use by contractors in
construction. It is more than accurate for that application. When used in
combination with a jointer, power or hand, it works for cabinet/furniture
work as well.

Dave

"Steve" wrote in message
om...
I've got a three year old Jet contractor saw with its standard fence.
Making fine adjustments to the fence is a pain - it moves on me when I
unlock it and I do a lot of trial and error tapping to nudge it over a
bit to get the cut just right. Then it usually moves again when I
re-lock it.

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Steve




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Ok, sorry different tapping. With the bies. a light tap with the lever not
engaged, then lock down. With the stock fence - push lever half way down,
smack the crap out of front and back until square, then lock lever.

dave


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
hey dave, you wrote, "no tapping". when I need to adjust my Bies in
fine increments I tap it. Are you referring to tapping for another
reason? My Crapsman fence would rarely lock down parallel to the blade.


dave

ClemsonDave wrote:

I just got one of these (biesemeyer commercial 30) and can't believe I
waited sooo long to get one. Definately a time saver. No more
measuring in
4 places to make sure it's parallel, no more tapping, etc.

Definately worth the $300.

dave


"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...

http://www.biesemeyer.com/commer_fence/index.htm

Steve wrote:



Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

In article m,
says...
Then there are the Incra fences. Example:
http://www.incra.biz/Products/TSLS.html
I've seen those demonstrated at the WW shows. Very impressive... but you'd
better have a heavy wallet, though.

And lotsa room to the right of your saw!

Still, I'm keeping mine! :-)

--
Charles Jones -- Loveland, Colorado
ICQ: 29610755
AIM: LovelandCharles
Y!M: charlesjonesathpcom
MSN:

"TeamCasa" wrote in message
...
Steve,
Use a jointer for fine adjustments. Absent a jointer, use a hand
jointer
plane. A contractor saw is just that, for use by contractors in
construction. It is more than accurate for that application. When
used in
combination with a jointer, power or hand, it works for
cabinet/furniture
work as well.

Dave

If your suggesting that a contractors style saw can't be used for
accurate cuts
then you are completely mistaken. I consistently make very accurate
cuts with
my General International contractor saw and many, many other
woodworkers
do too on a daily basis. For ripping I don't even mark the wood
anymore. I
measure the width needed and set the Biesemeyer clone fence that came
with
the saw to the setting on the stick-on tape measure on the fence rail.
The
cuts come out to as close as I can possibly measure, *every time*.
The blade
is square to the table and parallel to the miter slots. The miter
gauge cuts
perfectly square cross cuts too.
A contractor saw is made the way it is because they need to be
lighter for
easy mobility. Some contractor saws are made more cheaply or with
poor
engineering so they won't be as accurate but others, such as mine,
work
beautifully. A cabinet saw may be more heavy duty, (my 2hp works
well)
and more solid/stable but that doesn't necessarily make them more
accurate.
The legs are too flexible and wobbly on mine but I'm in the middle of
building
a large cabinet for the saw and attached router table. I'd rather
have a
cabinet saw, of course, but mostly for even more power and for better
dust
collection. But I love the results I get with what I have and the GI
50-185LM
was the best that was within my budget at the time.

Bruce
Redding, Ca.

(Steve) wrote in message . com...
I've got a three year old Jet contractor saw with its standard fence.
Making fine adjustments to the fence is a pain - it moves on me when I
unlock it and I do a lot of trial and error tapping to nudge it over a
bit to get the cut just right. Then it usually moves again when I
re-lock it.

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Steve

I use a dial indicator with a magnetic base. This does not "adjust"
the fence, you still have to do that by hand, but it tells you when
you got it right (or wrong) even after you clamp it.

Most woodworking does not need to be this accurate, so I don't do this
very often. But I do use this method when I need to make incremental
fence adjustements at a fixed width. Also, if you cut something and
measure it and know you need it to be exactly 0.025" narrower (for
instance) the dial indicator works great for this.

You can see the setup in the following picture on my website:
http://www.the-wildings.com/shop/jigs/fingerbd2.jpg

I hope this helps!

Joe in Denver
my woodworking website:
www.the-wildings.com/shop/

Steve wrote:

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

I made a "micro adjust" for my router table It's an approximately 10"
stick with a dowel in one end that fits into horizontal holes bored in the
edge of the router table. A couple inches up from the dowel is a hole for a
bent coat hanger wire. A similar hole is in the wooden fence. Thanks to
the laws of geometry when I move the end of the stick an inch the fence
moves about 1/5 that far. This lets me position (one end) of the fence very
accurately.

I've thought about doing the same thing for my Shop Fox Original table saw
fence but so far "thumping" has worked well enough I haven't figured out an
easy jig to clamp to the bar. The NEXT time it's being ornery I'll do
something about it.... g It will probably be a block of wood that quick
clamps to the bar with a hole bored compatible with the router table micro
adjuster. ;-)

-- Mark

Bruce, I'll adjust your context.

For ripping I don't even mark the wood anymore... Biesemeyer clone...
Some contractor saws are made more cheaply or with poor engineering so
they won't be as accurate but others.
The legs are too flexible and wobbly on mine.
A cabinet saw may be more heavy duty, and more solid/stable
I'd rather have a cabinet saw, of course, more power and better dust
collection.
Bruce
Redding, Ca.

What I said was "When used in combination with a jointer, power or hand, it
works for cabinet/furniture
work as well."

Dave






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"Charles Jones" wrote in message
...
In article m,
says...
Then there are the Incra fences. Example:
http://www.incra.biz/Products/TSLS.html
I've seen those demonstrated at the WW shows. Very impressive... but
you'd
better have a heavy wallet, though.

And lotsa room to the right of your saw!

Jointech has similar accuracy and requires much less room to the right


Ken

In article , "Ken Johnsen" wrote:

"Charles Jones" wrote in message
...
In article m,
says...
Then there are the Incra fences. Example:
http://www.incra.biz/Products/TSLS.html
I've seen those demonstrated at the WW shows. Very impressive... but
you'd
better have a heavy wallet, though.

And lotsa room to the right of your saw!

Jointech has similar accuracy and requires much less room to the right


Doesn't require any less room in your wallet, though!
Ken



--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

Steve wrote:
I've got a three year old Jet contractor saw with its standard fence.
Making fine adjustments to the fence is a pain - it moves on me when I
unlock it and I do a lot of trial and error tapping to nudge it over a
bit to get the cut just right. Then it usually moves again when I
re-lock it.

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Steve

I have the same fence and saw. The trick is to keep the fence pushed
flat against the front rail to keep it square while you tap it into
position. It became much easier to deal with once I got that figured
out. :-)

Donnie Vazquez
Sunderland, MD
remove NoSpam from address to reply

Well, ok Dave. But what you really said was, "A contractor saw is
just
that, for use by contractors in construction. It is more than accurate
for that application." This seemed to imply that a contractors saw
was accurate enough for construction but not for furniture building
unless you used other tools along with it. I believe that my
contractors
saw will make cuts just as accurately as a cabinet saw and that
frequently
*both* types of saws need a jointer, planer and other tools to go
along with
them. The contractors saw that I have will cut right along side with
my
neighbor's Unisaw. Mine may require me to check the tuning more
frequently and his motor will power through 12/4 oak easier than mine
but, as I said before, my budget didn't allow for the cabinet saw
*and*
lots of premium wood. Someday though...

Bruce
Redding, Ca.

"TeamCasa" wrote in message
...
Bruce, I'll adjust your context.
What I said was "When used in combination with a jointer, power or
hand, it
works for cabinet/furniture
work as well."

Dave

Bruce, I know. I had one for a few years as well.
I made many a nice piece with mine.
One you move to a cabinet saw, you will ask yourself, why did I wait so
long, my kid did'nt really *need* that operation, did he?

The important thing is you are making shavings!

Dave



"Bruce" wrote in message
...
Well, ok Dave. But what you really said was, "A contractor saw is
just
that, for use by contractors in construction. It is more than accurate
for that application." This seemed to imply that a contractors saw
was accurate enough for construction but not for furniture building
unless you used other tools along with it. I believe that my
contractors
saw will make cuts just as accurately as a cabinet saw and that
frequently
*both* types of saws need a jointer, planer and other tools to go
along with
them. The contractors saw that I have will cut right along side with
my
neighbor's Unisaw. Mine may require me to check the tuning more
frequently and his motor will power through 12/4 oak easier than mine
but, as I said before, my budget didn't allow for the cabinet saw
*and*
lots of premium wood. Someday though...

Bruce
Redding, Ca.

"TeamCasa" wrote in message
...
Bruce, I'll adjust your context.
What I said was "When used in combination with a jointer, power or
hand, it
works for cabinet/furniture
work as well."

Dave






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Well, I have used my neighbors Unisaw and yes, it was *nice*.
But for what really matters, (making accurate cuts consistently)
my GI appears to be it's equal. However, I would love to
have a cabinet saw but not for such critical reasons. After
putting up with a RAS and my dad's 40+ year old Craftsman
TS I'm *really* happy to have stepped up to a machine that
will make accurate cuts that can be repeated. Of course, I
guess I could rent out our house and just keep my garage
to work in. With what I pay in mortgage in a year I could buy
a whole shop full of top-o-the line tools...and buy a very used
travel trailer for my family and me to live in. ;~}

Bruce
Redding, Ca.

"TeamCasa" wrote in message
...
Bruce, I know. I had one for a few years as well.
I made many a nice piece with mine.
One you move to a cabinet saw, you will ask yourself, why did I wait
so
long, my kid did'nt really *need* that operation, did he?

The important thing is you are making shavings!

Dave

TeamCasa wrote:

One you move to a cabinet saw, you will ask yourself, why did I wait so
long, my kid did'nt really *need* that operation, did he?

Um, because they cost around $2,000, and they weigh 400+ pounds, and it
would be sad to run one on 110 with a wimpy motor, but there's 0 chance I
can run 220 to my shop without replacing my entire main panel first, which
adds another grand to the total...

Besides, them Unisaurs are pretty wussy looking baby playthings anyway.
When I get a real shop some day I'm going to have me on o' them industrial
jobs with a 16" blade and a rip fence that weighs 300 pounds by itself.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Donnie Vazquez wrote in message ...
Steve wrote:
I've got a three year old Jet contractor saw with its standard fence.
Making fine adjustments to the fence is a pain - it moves on me when I
unlock it and I do a lot of trial and error tapping to nudge it over a
bit to get the cut just right. Then it usually moves again when I
re-lock it.

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Steve

I have the same fence and saw. The trick is to keep the fence pushed
flat against the front rail to keep it square while you tap it into
position. It became much easier to deal with once I got that figured
out. :-)

Donnie Vazquez
Sunderland, MD
remove NoSpam from address to reply

Thanks Donnie.
Tried your suggestion and it helps a lot.

Surprised there isn't some little, cheap, clamp-onto-the-rail device
you can buy to let you tweak the fence over and hold it for locking.
Sort of like the adjustable stops you can get for a cross-cut fence.
Some enterprising person should invent one. The Jet fence is OK -
it's straight and it locks up square. It's just a pain to make those
fine adjustments. Looks like those after market fences make the fine
adjustments easier, but then you're talking enough money that I'll
(and probably a lot of hobbyists) keep putting up with tapping on
fence. Well, maybe someday when I get the kids through college I'll
start equiping my dream shop.

Steve

Bruce wrote:

to work in. With what I pay in mortgage in a year I could buy
a whole shop full of top-o-the line tools...and buy a very used
travel trailer for my family and me to live in. ;~}

Pretty decent tents at Wal-Mart for $40.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Get a Vega fence.

"Silvan" wrote in message
...
Bruce wrote:

to work in. With what I pay in mortgage in a year I could buy
a whole shop full of top-o-the line tools...and buy a very used
travel trailer for my family and me to live in. ;~}

Pretty decent tents at Wal-Mart for $40.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

"Silvan" wrote in message
...
Bruce wrote:

to work in. With what I pay in mortgage in a year I could buy
a whole shop full of top-o-the line tools...and buy a very used
travel trailer for my family and me to live in. ;~}

Pretty decent tents at Wal-Mart for $40.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan

Shucks man! Weez aimin' ta be furst class trailer trash. Not that
secont
class tent trash! Mees and mine family does has it's standerds, ya
no.

Bruce
Fixin' ta hole up in the back woods of Redding, Ca.

"Dave" wrote in message
news:Q4i9c.17706$JO3.25170@attbi_s04...
Get a Vega fence.

"Silvan" wrote in message

Why? My Biesemeyer clone works beautifully. I guess some sort of
micro-adjust feature would be nice but so far I've had very little
trouble
making minute adjustments to my fence. I can't dial in the exact
amount
of the adjustment but so far it's been pretty close. No reason to do
away
with a perfectly good fence yet.
However, a while back I was checking out one of the Wreck members'
website and saw a gadget called the Micro-Rip installed on his saw. I
checked out the company's website and it looks like a simple and
functional product. At $110 it ain't cheap but it does look like it
might
work very well and it would add precision adjustment to the accuracy
of my Biesemeyer clone fence. It doesn't look too hard to make if I
were so inclined. Buying one would save time and a little trial and
error.
I love to work with metal as well as wood but I'm more set up for
precision
wood work than precision metal work.
http://www.tahoetools.com/microrip.htm

Bruce
Redding, Ca.

This gadget won't work on all fences but it sounds like what you're
talking about. I don't have one yet but it looks like a simple and
cool product. Not cheap for what it is but if you're handy with
metal it wouldn't be too hard to make one.
http://www.tahoetools.com/microrip.htm

Bruce
Redding, Ca.


"Steve" wrote in message Steve wrote:
I've got a three year old Jet contractor saw with its standard
fence.
Making fine adjustments to the fence is a pain - it moves on me
when I
unlock it and I do a lot of trial and error tapping to nudge it
over a
bit to get the cut just right. Then it usually moves again when
I
re-lock it.

Anyone know of any micro-adjusting accessory (commercial or
perhaps
shop built) that you can clamp to the fence rail to help you
tweak the
fence over a bit with more reliability then tapping and hoping?

Steve

Surprised there isn't some little, cheap, clamp-onto-the-rail device
you can buy to let you tweak the fence over and hold it for locking.
Sort of like the adjustable stops you can get for a cross-cut fence.
Some enterprising person should invent one. The Jet fence is OK -
it's straight and it locks up square. It's just a pain to make
those
fine adjustments. Looks like those after market fences make the
fine
adjustments easier, but then you're talking enough money that I'll
(and probably a lot of hobbyists) keep putting up with tapping on
fence. Well, maybe someday when I get the kids through college I'll
start equiping my dream shop.

Steve

This gadget won't work on all fences but it sounds like what you're
talking about. I don't have one yet but it looks like a simple and
cool product. Not cheap for what it is but if you're handy with
metal it wouldn't be too hard to make one.
http://www.tahoetools.com/microrip.htm

Bruce
=======================
I have been using a real Biesemeyer on my saw for almost 15 years
and I could count the number of times I REALLY wanted a micro
adjustment on the Fence.... on one hand... And I have never needed
one...

That said... I am pretty good with working with metal and it sure does
not appear (been wrong on that score alot...) to be any real difficult
job....

Bob Griffiths

Bruce wrote:

Pretty decent tents at Wal-Mart for $40.

Shucks man! Weez aimin' ta be furst class trailer trash. Not that
secont
class tent trash! Mees and mine family does has it's standerds, ya
no.

Easy. Get yourself about three Trans Ams and a couple of Camaros.
(Non-running is fine.) Park them in front of your trailer. Now send your
kids to school unwashed, in rags. Beat the crap out of them when they come
home. Now you're bona fide trailer trash.

(My schoolbus used to run through just such a trailer park. I remember this
one kid whose mother's boyfriend had about 12 cars in front of the "house."
She got a Commodore 64 in about 1988 at some place like Big Lots. No
cassette drive, no disk drive. She used to describe typing in programs
every day and playing games for awhile, then turning off the computer to
save electricity a the end of the day. But her mom's boyfriend had 12 cars
in front of the "house.")

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

"Silvan" wrote in message
...
Easy. Get yourself about three Trans Ams and a couple of Camaros.
(Non-running is fine.) Park them in front of your trailer. Now
send your
kids to school unwashed, in rags. Beat the crap out of them when
they come
home. Now you're bona fide trailer trash.

(My schoolbus used to run through just such a trailer park. I
remember this
one kid whose mother's boyfriend had about 12 cars in front of the
"house."
She got a Commodore 64 in about 1988 at some place like Big Lots.
No
cassette drive, no disk drive. She used to describe typing in
programs
every day and playing games for awhile, then turning off the
computer to
save electricity a the end of the day. But her mom's boyfriend had
12 cars
in front of the "house.")

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/


Sheeeoooot Man!!! That was you?! You talkin' about Christiansburg,
in the Blue Ridge Mountains of southwestern Virginy? Well, I'm that
there boyfriend, buddy! Yeah, that was one sweet honey of a place
to habitate. Course, the ungrateful little filly finally kicked me
out and
I had to hook up with my current family. I'm fixin' to sell my
grannies
kidney to get me a cherry '77 Trans Am complete with the big ol' eagle
sticker on the hood. Actually, I'm tradin' the kidney straight across
and
doin' the work right here in my bitchin' shop. I got a welder and an
awesome set of tools. How hard can it be if them sissy, "Doctor" boys
can do it? "Look at me! I went on past the 8th grade and became a
'Doctor'." Like, somehow they think they're, "Better" than me.

Bruce
Now from Redding, Ca.

Bruce wrote:

Sheeeoooot Man!!! That was you?! You talkin' about Christiansburg,
in the Blue Ridge Mountains of southwestern Virginy? Well, I'm that

Yup.

there boyfriend, buddy! Yeah, that was one sweet honey of a place

No you're not. This guy is in prison now. (Or did you get out?

kidney to get me a cherry '77 Trans Am complete with the big ol' eagle
sticker on the hood. Actually, I'm tradin' the kidney straight across
and
doin' the work right here in my bitchin' shop. I got a welder and an
awesome set of tools. How hard can it be if them sissy, "Doctor" boys
can do it? "Look at me! I went on past the 8th grade and became a
'Doctor'." Like, somehow they think they're, "Better" than me.

LOL!

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/