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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I
have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. Fortunately, it wasn’t permanent. I saw that Pat Warner saturated his router table top with Watco. I wonder how that worked out. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact. Thanks. Joel |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact. Whoops! I left out the word don't --- I don't plan to submerge the top. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
wrote: ----------------------------------------------------- Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. Fortunately, it wasn’t permanent. I saw that Pat Warner saturated his router table top with Watco. I wonder how that worked out. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact. --------------------------------------------------- 2-3 coats of an oil based deck paint is one way; however, think I would cover the top with a piece of sacrificial, 1/4" hard board. When it gets crapped up, replace it. Probably less costly than a can of paint. Lew |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 20:55:09 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. Fortunately, it wasn’t permanent. I saw that Pat Warner saturated his router table top with Watco. I wonder how that worked out. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact. Thanks. Joel Maybe a polyurethane varnish, floor paint or apply Formica over the MDF. If unprotected wood gets wet, it will swell. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
On Dec 10, 6:56*am, Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 20:55:09 -0800 (PST), " wrote: Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. Fortunately, it wasn’t permanent. I saw that Pat Warner saturated his router table top with Watco. I wonder how that worked out. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact. Thanks. Joel Maybe a polyurethane varnish, floor paint or apply Formica over the MDF. *If unprotected wood gets wet, it will swell. * A sheet of Formica (HPL from anybody) is, IMO, one of the better solutions. Most adhesives won't stick to it (depending on the choice of laminate finish ie, the satin-like finish works best), easy to clean, and cheap. Many laminate distributors have discontinued colours that they will sell for cheap. I bought 50 4 x 8 sheets for $8.00 per sheet, which I use as backers for custom laminate countertops. MANY of the mish-mash of colours had a good reason to be discontinued, there's some fugly colours in that pile. A simple painter's razor blade scrapes justabout anything right off. We use it for glue-ups all the time. For some reason Titebond III really sticks to it..... mmmmm |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
I have wiped a couple coats of poly on MDF and hardboard to help
protect it. Seems to work OK but I haven't exposed those surfaces to a lot of wear. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
"Robatoy" wrote in message ... On Dec 10, 6:56 am, Phisherman wrote: Maybe a polyurethane varnish, floor paint or apply Formica over the MDF. If unprotected wood gets wet, it will swell. A sheet of Formica (HPL from anybody) is, IMO, one of the better solutions. Most adhesives won't stick to it (depending on the choice of laminate finish ie, the satin-like finish works best), easy to clean, and cheap. Many laminate distributors have discontinued colours that they will sell for cheap. I bought 50 4 x 8 sheets for $8.00 per sheet, which I use as backers for custom laminate countertops. MANY of the mish-mash of colours had a good reason to be discontinued, there's some fugly colours in that pile. A simple painter's razor blade scrapes justabout anything right off. We use it for glue-ups all the time. For some reason Titebond III really sticks to it..... mmmmm I use a cabinet scraper to remove TBIII from plastic laminate. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
On Dec 10, 11:48*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message ... On Dec 10, 6:56 am, Phisherman wrote: Maybe a polyurethane varnish, floor paint or apply Formica over the MDF. If unprotected wood gets wet, it will swell. A sheet of Formica (HPL from anybody) is, IMO, one of the better solutions. Most adhesives won't stick to it (depending on the choice of laminate finish ie, the satin-like finish works best), easy to clean, and cheap. Many laminate distributors have discontinued colours that they will sell for cheap. I bought 50 4 x 8 sheets for $8.00 per sheet, which I use as backers for custom laminate countertops. MANY of the mish-mash of colours had a good reason to be discontinued, there's some fugly colours in that pile. A simple painter's razor blade scrapes justabout anything right off. We use it for glue-ups all the time. For some reason Titebond III really sticks to it..... mmmmm I use a cabinet scraper to remove TBIII from plastic laminate. TBIII will come off alright, just seems a bit more difficult. TBIII pops right off gloss laminate though. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
On Dec 9, 8:55*pm, " wrote:
Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? Formica. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 20:55:09 -0800 (PST), the infamous
" scrawled the following: Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. Fortunately, it wasn’t permanent. I saw that Pat Warner saturated his router table top with Watco. I wonder how that worked out. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact. I've always loved Waterlox, so I'd use that: 10 handrubbed coats or 4 brushed coats. I much prefer handrubbed to brushed. Use 420 grit between coats if you feel any roughness at all. I handrub two coats the first day, then go to one coat a day at quickest. I really like drying time, even with quick-drying products like Waterlox. More screwed-up finishes have been had from hurrying. None from waiting. I would let that ring dry out WELL before you sand it and seal it. Otherwise, once it does finally dry out, you'll have a ring dip in the tabletop. A light bulb about 8" off the surface should dry it out in a couple days. Let it cool well before starting, and even though it's not real wood, use a quick wipedown with lacquer thinner or mineral spirits before putting the finish on half an hour later. Again, I wait for the thinner to be completely gone before I start work. Oh, wait, you said you plan to _submerge_ the top. Forget using MDF for that, -ever-. Any pinhole leak will blow the thing out in 5 minutes. -- To know what you prefer instead of humbly saying Amen to what the world tells you you ought to prefer, is to have kept your soul alive. -- Robert Louis Stevenson |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
whit3rd wrote:
On Dec 9, 8:55 pm, " wrote: Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? Formica. I agree. -- Free bad advice available here. To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
"Robatoy" wrote in message ... On Dec 10, 6:56 am, Phisherman wrote: On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 20:55:09 -0800 (PST), " wrote: Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. Fortunately, it wasn’t permanent. I saw that Pat Warner saturated his router table top with Watco. I wonder how that worked out. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact. Thanks. Joel Maybe a polyurethane varnish, floor paint or apply Formica over the MDF. If unprotected wood gets wet, it will swell. A sheet of Formica (HPL from anybody) is, IMO, one of the better solutions. Most adhesives won't stick to it (depending on the choice of laminate finish ie, the satin-like finish works best), easy to clean, and cheap. Many laminate distributors have discontinued colours that they will sell for cheap. I bought 50 4 x 8 sheets for $8.00 per sheet, which I use as backers for custom laminate countertops. MANY of the mish-mash of colours had a good reason to be discontinued, there's some fugly colours in that pile. A simple painter's razor blade scrapes justabout anything right off. We use it for glue-ups all the time. For some reason Titebond III really sticks to it..... mmmmm Maybe thats why it is called Titebond. WW |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Want Advice: Protecting MDF From Water Contact
On Dec 9, 8:55*pm, " wrote:
Has anyone had experience with a water protective finish for MDF? I have a work table with an MDF top, and I briefly set a glass of ice tea on it, and the wet spot swelled up. Fortunately, it wasn’t permanent. I saw that Pat Warner saturated his router table top with Watco. I wonder how that worked out. I have on hand Watco, Exterior Watco, Waterlox, and several types of varnishes. What would be best? I plan to submerge the top, but I don’t want water soaking in on contact. Thanks. Joel Two part epoxy paint...specifically Rustoleum Industrail Mastic, not cheap but waterproof & very durable. Not great for sun exposure though. cheers Bob |
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