Motivated by reading another thread (s), I have been reading about "TS
setup": Checking that the fence and blade are perp to the top, and that the
mitre track is parallel to the blade and the fence. If I'm overlooking
anything major, besides making sure the saw is unplugged, please mention it!
: )

Based on what I've read I would probably use a combination square for the
first task, and a piece of wood with a brass screw for the latter (or a dial
indicator?) along with a mallet if necessary.

I just found this link and found it refreshingly down-to-earth:
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/calibrate_sled1.htm

So that brings me to what I wrote in the subject line: "How often do you
check the setup of your TS?"

To me, someone who doesn't yet own a TS, it seems that the fence is the
least stable part of the system, assuming one doesn't tamper with the angle
of the blade. Do you check your fence as suggested above everytime you move
it? Or, only if you have a cheap fence, or something else? A "Magnetic
Angle Cube" seems a nice way of setting the blade angle.

From what I have seen, a dial indicator might be a nice item to have. Is
there one which "makes sense"?
Seems like with repeated use too that the above mentioned "brass screw"
might take a toll on the fence..

Bill

Bill wrote:

So that brings me to what I wrote in the subject line: "How often do you
check the setup of your TS?"

Every time I move it with an depth check; the fence again before each
project, and the blade every time I use it.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Dec 7, 7:29*pm, Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
So that brings me to what I wrote in the subject line: *"How often do you
check the setup of your TS?"

Every time I move it with an depth check; the fence again before each
project, and the blade every time I use it.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I hadn't really thought about this in the two years I've had my TS. I
don't do routine checks at all, I let the wood I cut do the checking.
So far, it has not produced a bad cut. Things do get reset when I
change the blade tilt angle back to 90 degrees, or play with the
mitre.

But if the fence seems to be causing straight, repeatable cuts, why
would I want to mess with it???

rich wrote:
On Dec 7, 7:29 pm, Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
So that brings me to what I wrote in the subject line: "How often do you
check the setup of your TS?"
Every time I move it with an depth check; the fence again before each
project, and the blade every time I use it.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I hadn't really thought about this in the two years I've had my TS. I
don't do routine checks at all, I let the wood I cut do the checking.
So far, it has not produced a bad cut. Things do get reset when I
change the blade tilt angle back to 90 degrees, or play with the
mitre.

Do you make a living with your table saw?

But if the fence seems to be causing straight, repeatable cuts, why
would I want to mess with it???

On your last project, did you make a large kitchen, with 25 + cabinets
and their associated components, drawers, etc.?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 7 Dec 2009 21:15:20 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:


Motivated by reading another thread (s), I have been reading about "TS
setup": Checking that the fence and blade are perp to the top, and that the
mitre track is parallel to the blade and the fence. If I'm overlooking
anything major, besides making sure the saw is unplugged, please mention it!
: )

Based on what I've read I would probably use a combination square for the
first task, and a piece of wood with a brass screw for the latter (or a dial
indicator?) along with a mallet if necessary.

I just found this link and found it refreshingly down-to-earth:
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/calibrate_sled1.htm

So that brings me to what I wrote in the subject line: "How often do you
check the setup of your TS?"

To me, someone who doesn't yet own a TS, it seems that the fence is the
least stable part of the system, assuming one doesn't tamper with the angle
of the blade. Do you check your fence as suggested above everytime you move
it? Or, only if you have a cheap fence, or something else? A "Magnetic
Angle Cube" seems a nice way of setting the blade angle.

From what I have seen, a dial indicator might be a nice item to have. Is
there one which "makes sense"?
Seems like with repeated use too that the above mentioned "brass screw"
might take a toll on the fence..

Bill



I check my power tools whenever I need a precision cut or starting a
fine woodworking project. Life is too short for a crappy fence, my
Beis fence is usually right on. One really nice plus about a table
saw is that seldom it is out of tune, unlike a bandsaw.

On Dec 7, 8:15*pm, "Bill" wrote:
Motivated by reading another thread (s), I have been reading about "TS
setup": *Checking that the fence and blade are perp to the top, and that the
mitre track is parallel to the blade and the fence. *If I'm overlooking
anything major, besides making sure the saw is unplugged, please mention it!
: )

Based on what I've read I would probably use a combination square for the
first task, and a piece of wood with a brass screw for the latter (or a dial
indicator?) along with a mallet if necessary.

I just found this link and found it refreshingly down-to-earth:http://www..thewoodshop.20m.com/calibrate_sled1.htm

So that brings me to what I wrote in the subject line: *"How often do you
check the setup of your TS?"

To me, someone who doesn't yet own a TS, it seems that the fence is the
least stable part of the system, assuming one doesn't tamper with the angle
of the blade. *Do you check your fence as suggested above everytime you move
it? *Or, only if you have a cheap fence, or something else? * A "Magnetic
Angle Cube" seems a nice way of setting the blade angle.

From what I have seen, a dial indicator might be a nice item to have. *Is
there one which "makes sense"?
Seems like with repeated use too that the above mentioned "brass screw"
might take a toll on the fence..

Bill

I check the miter gauge on my 1023s from time to time. It is the
"stock" gauge that came with the machine and it is usually square. I
probably check the fence once a year or so and have made one minor
adjustment in about eight years. Also check blade alignment with
table once in a while especially if I am doing close work.

I think you get to know your equipment and only experience will tell
how often you "need" to check stuff.

I almost always check my miter guage. Since I have gone to a newer
fence I checked it every few days at first but found it was holding
quite well. So now I just check it after running some big sheet goods
or orther things that might stress the setup. After I dialied in the
top to the blade (to within 1/1000th) I checked it every few weeks and
saw little to no movement, so now I would only check it if I started
to see some burn or hear the back of the blade start to sing at the
tail end of a cut.

On Dec 7, 6:15*pm, "Bill" wrote:
Motivated by reading another thread (s), I have been reading about "TS
setup": *Checking that the fence and blade are perp to the top, and that the
mitre track is parallel to the blade and the fence. *If I'm overlooking
anything major, besides making sure the saw is unplugged, please mention it!
: )

Based on what I've read I would probably use a combination square for the
first task, and a piece of wood with a brass screw for the latter (or a dial
indicator?) along with a mallet if necessary.

I just found this link and found it refreshingly down-to-earth:http://www..thewoodshop.20m.com/calibrate_sled1.htm

So that brings me to what I wrote in the subject line: *"How often do you
check the setup of your TS?"

To me, someone who doesn't yet own a TS, it seems that the fence is the
least stable part of the system, assuming one doesn't tamper with the angle
of the blade. *Do you check your fence as suggested above everytime you move
it? *Or, only if you have a cheap fence, or something else? * A "Magnetic
Angle Cube" seems a nice way of setting the blade angle.

From what I have seen, a dial indicator might be a nice item to have. *Is
there one which "makes sense"?
Seems like with repeated use too that the above mentioned "brass screw"
might take a toll on the fence..

Bill

"Swingman" wrote in message
...


On your last project, did you make a large kitchen, with 25 + cabinets and
their associated components, drawers, etc.?


I don't know about the other guy, but on my last major project (which was
the restoration of a 1952 Dodge Wafarer), I didn't check the alignment of
either my blade nor my rip fence on my table saw. Does that count?

All right - I admit... just trying to be a wise ass...

--

-Mike-

"Bill" wrote in message
...

Motivated by reading another thread (s), I have been reading about "TS
setup": Checking that the fence and blade are perp to the top, and that
the mitre track is parallel to the blade and the fence. If I'm
overlooking anything major, besides making sure the saw is unplugged,
please mention it! : )

Based on what I've read I would probably use a combination square for the
first task, and a piece of wood with a brass screw for the latter (or a
dial indicator?) along with a mallet if necessary.

I just found this link and found it refreshingly down-to-earth:
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/calibrate_sled1.htm

So that brings me to what I wrote in the subject line: "How often do you
check the setup of your TS?"

I have a Jet cabinet saw. I used a dial indicator to check initial arbor
run out just before the threads started when it was new. Got .0005



To me, someone who doesn't yet own a TS, it seems that the fence is the
least stable part of the system, assuming one doesn't tamper with the
angle of the blade. Do you check your fence as suggested above everytime
you move it? Or, only if you have a cheap fence, or something else? A
"Magnetic Angle Cube" seems a nice way of setting the blade angle.

You can measure all you want. BUT I simply rely on my quality of cut. If
the cut leaces me with nothing to suspect I don't check it. I typically
have to look very close with the light shining just right to detect tooth
marks if any. Good enough, typically the stock not being perfectly straight
is the reason fot tooth marks and a pass or two with a scraper takes care of
that.



From what I have seen, a dial indicator might be a nice item to have. Is
there one which "makes sense"?

Yes it does make sense but you don't need to use it often if any after
initial set up of the saw. I have not had my dial indicator out in 10
years.


Seems like with repeated use too that the above mentioned "brass screw"
might take a toll on the fence..

Again, cut a scrap piece of wood. Adjust accordingly.

For blade bevel I have again have had no reason to doubt the 90 and 45
degree stops on my saw but I will confirm with a digital tilt box, the one
that sticks to the blade with a magnet. I mainly use it to go for bevels
90 degrees and 45 degrees.

On Dec 7, 9:15*pm, "Bill" wrote:

To me, someone who doesn't yet own a TS, it seems that the fence is the
least stable part of the system, assuming one doesn't tamper with the angle
of the blade. *Do you check your fence as suggested above everytime you move
it? *Or, only if you have a cheap fence, or something else? *

Biesemeyer, brilliantly simple device, locks dead parallel
every time. I can eyeball the cursor and scale to within
0.002" of width with no problem, very easily with a pair of
dollar store reading glasses.

A "Magnetic
Angle Cube" seems a nice way of setting the blade angle.

Drafting square sets both blade and miter angle. Gets used
every time.

Your stock throatplate will need to be upgraded to something
closer to flat if it's the usual die cast aluminum POS. Any
dips next to the blade will make your setup worthless if
you're ripping narrow stock.

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
...
On Dec 7, 9:15 pm, "Bill" wrote:

To me, someone who doesn't yet own a TS, it seems that the fence is the
least stable part of the system, assuming one doesn't tamper with the
angle
of the blade. Do you check your fence as suggested above everytime you
move
it? Or, only if you have a cheap fence, or something else?

Biesemeyer, brilliantly simple device, locks dead parallel
every time. I can eyeball the cursor and scale to within
0.002" of width with no problem, very easily with a pair of
dollar store reading glasses.

A "Magnetic
Angle Cube" seems a nice way of setting the blade angle.

Drafting square sets both blade and miter angle. Gets used
every time.
---

By drafting square, do you mean a plastic protractor, or something else?
Your comment on the throatplate below is well-taken. I'm surprised there
are so many "worthless" ones in circulation.

Bill





Your stock throatplate will need to be upgraded to something
closer to flat if it's the usual die cast aluminum POS. Any
dips next to the blade will make your setup worthless if
you're ripping narrow stock.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

Snip

Drafting square sets both blade and miter angle. Gets used
every time.
---

By drafting square, do you mean a plastic protractor, or something else?



Probably refering to a drafting "triangle", typically thin transparent or
translucent triangles in 45-45-90 or 30-60-90 degree orientations. Not to
be confused with a T-Square.


Your comment on the throatplate below is well-taken. I'm surprised there
are so many "worthless" ones in circulation.


Probably about 1 with each new saw. ;~)

On Dec 9, 6:44*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message

...

Snip

Drafting square sets both blade and miter angle. *Gets used
every time.
---

By drafting square, do you mean a plastic protractor, or something else?

Probably refering to a drafting "triangle", *typically thin transparent or
translucent triangles *in 45-45-90 or 30-60-90 degree orientations. * Not to
be confused with a T-Square.

The two in combination can set any angle multiple of
15 degrees.


Your comment on the throatplate below is well-taken. *I'm surprised there
are so many "worthless" ones in circulation.

Probably about 1 with each new saw. *;~)