I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.

A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..

"gcotterl" wrote in message
...
I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.

A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the
ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can
install
a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a
circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..

If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very inexpensive
circular saw with a good panel blade. It'll make short work of
your problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will
last you and be available forever.

--
Nonny

You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.

"Nonny" wrote in message
news

"gcotterl" wrote in message
...
I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.

A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..

If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very inexpensive
circular saw with a good panel blade. It'll make short work of your
problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will last you and be
available forever.


Woah! there..... I don't know where this little project is located but it
sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a kitchen or
bathroom. Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in one of those
locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily. If that is
indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use a circle saw
cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or electrical
wires that may be damaged.

On Nov 7, 4:41*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Nonny" wrote in message

news


"gcotterl" wrote in message
...
I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.

A section of the panel has been torn off. *How do I cut the ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? *(I don't have a circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..

If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very inexpensive
circular saw with a good panel blade. *It'll make short work of your
problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will last you and be
available forever.

Woah! there..... *I don't know where this little project is located but it
sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a kitchen or
bathroom. *Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in one of those
locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily. *If that is
indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use a circle saw
cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or electrical
wires that may be damaged.

Barker Board, by the sounds of it. If the saw is set to 1/4" depth, he
should be okay.
Only a TCG blade stands a chance of minimizing chips. That, and a
straight-edge...probably needs to be screwed to the wall. Wear
goggles, in case you hit a screw on the wall-board behind the Barker
Board.

gcotterl wrote:
I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.

A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..

Personally I'd remove the remainder of the panel and replace the whole
thing.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Nov 7, 4:41 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Nonny" wrote in message

news


"gcotterl" wrote in message
...
I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck
to
drywall with an adhesive.

A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the
ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I
can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a
circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..

If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very
inexpensive
circular saw with a good panel blade. It'll make short work
of your
problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will
last you and be
available forever.

Woah! there..... I don't know where this little project is
located but it
sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a
kitchen or
bathroom. Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in
one of those
locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily.
If that is
indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use
a circle saw
cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or
electrical
wires that may be damaged.

Barker Board, by the sounds of it. If the saw is set to 1/4"
depth, he
should be okay.
Only a TCG blade stands a chance of minimizing chips. That, and
a
straight-edge...probably needs to be screwed to the wall. Wear
goggles, in case you hit a screw on the wall-board behind the
Barker
Board.

I stayed away from explaining how to do it, though I agree that
any circular saw with a depth adjustment (that includes about all)
would be a LOT safer than a jigsaw, and produce better results.
IMHO, assuming that you're right about the 1/4" melamine coated
paneling, I'd make a shooting board and use that to prevent chip
out.

To do that, get a piece of 5/8" or 3/4" particle board or plywood
(even 1/4" will do for short pieces) about 3' to 4' long. The
length should obviously be longer than your damaged section. The
width of the shooting board would be about 12" or so: it's not
critical, but has to be a few inches wider than the base of your
saw.

On the face of the board, a few inches in from the edge, mark the
straightest line you can possibly make for the length of the
board. Then, glue a strip of wood to the mark. The ideal strip
would be about 1/4" tall by an inch or so wide. It must be
perfectly straight.

Then, simply place the base of the saw against the strip of wood,
lower the blade to exceed the depth of the shooting board's
material and cut off the excess. What you'll have is a straight
edge that's a perfect fit between the inside edge of your saw
blade and the outside base of the saw's shoe. You'll find this to
be one of the handiest jigs you ever made.

To use it, you clamp the board to the workpiece on the outside of
the straight strip. For instance, if you're cutting off the
bottom of a door, clamp the shooting board to the door so that the
cut edge is aligned with your marks. Then, when the saw cuts off
the door, particle board, paneling etc., there will be no chipout
at all AND you won't have to make additional measurements or
calculations, since the cut edge of the shooting board lies
straight on the mark.

--
Nonny

You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.

On Nov 7, 6:30*pm, "Nonny" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...





On Nov 7, 4:41 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Nonny" wrote in message

news

"gcotterl" wrote in message
....
I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck
to
drywall with an adhesive.

A section of the panel has been torn off. *How do I cut the
ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I
can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? *(I don't have a
circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..

If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very
inexpensive
circular saw with a good panel blade. *It'll make short work
of your
problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will
last you and be
available forever.

Woah! there..... *I don't know where this little project is
located but it
sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a
kitchen or
bathroom. *Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in
one of those
locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily.
If that is
indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use
a circle saw
cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or
electrical
wires that may be damaged.

Barker Board, by the sounds of it. If the saw is set to 1/4"
depth, he
should be okay.
Only a TCG blade stands a chance of minimizing chips. That, and
a
straight-edge...probably needs to be screwed to the wall. Wear
goggles, in case you hit a screw on the wall-board behind the
Barker
Board.

I stayed away from explaining how to do it, though I agree that
any circular saw with a depth adjustment (that includes about all)
would be a LOT safer than a jigsaw, and produce better results.
IMHO, assuming that you're right about the 1/4" melamine coated
paneling, I'd make a shooting board and use that to prevent chip
out.

To do that, get a piece of 5/8" or 3/4" particle board or plywood
(even 1/4" will do for short pieces) *about 3' to 4' long. *The
length should obviously be longer than your damaged section. *The
width of the shooting board would be about 12" or so: it's not
critical, but has to be a few inches wider than the base of your
saw.

On the face of the board, a few inches in from the edge, mark the
straightest line you can possibly make for the length of the
board. *Then, glue a strip of wood to the mark. *The ideal strip
would be about 1/4" tall by an inch or so wide. *It must be
perfectly straight.

Then, simply place the base of the saw against the strip of wood,
lower the blade to exceed the depth of the shooting board's
material and cut off the excess. *What you'll have is a straight
edge that's a perfect fit between the inside edge of your saw
blade and the outside base of the saw's shoe. *You'll find this to
be one of the handiest jigs you ever made.

To use it, you clamp the board to the workpiece on the outside of
the straight strip. *For instance, if you're cutting off the
bottom of a door, clamp the shooting board to the door so that the
cut edge is aligned with your marks. *Then, when the saw cuts off
the door, particle board, paneling etc., there will be no chipout
at all AND you won't have to make additional measurements or
calculations, since the cut edge of the shooting board lies
straight on the mark.

--
Nonny

You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. *Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.

My shop runs on shooting boards. Fast, practically foolproof.

On Nov 7, 6:17*pm, Nova wrote:
gcotterl wrote:
I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.

A section of the panel has been torn off. *How do I cut the ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? *(I don't have a circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..

Personally I'd remove the remainder of the panel and replace the whole
thing.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA


Yabbut.... drywall/construction adhesive, contact cement, even...
yikes... that's a can of worms. We need more info. *S*

On Sat, 7 Nov 2009 17:11:37 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:

My shop runs on shooting boards. Fast, practically foolproof.

On another note, I don't think I've ever really understood what a
shooting board is. What I believe is that it's for trimming to a
sharp, definable point. Would that be considered correct?