In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone
(sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home
with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I could face
"alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if I
drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
may help with alighnment when gluing.

I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
and cover them for the sake of appearence.

Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?

Thanks,
Bill


P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
the thread "Second SketchUp".

Bill wrote:
In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone
(sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home
with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I could face
"alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if I
drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
may help with alighnment when gluing.

I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
and cover them for the sake of appearence.

Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?

I used 3 and was happy with the result. :-D

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Oct 8, 4:41*pm, "Bill" wrote:

P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
the thread "Second SketchUp".

From Google:


Google Groups Home
Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
• The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
• Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.

R

RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 8, 4:41 pm, "Bill" wrote:
P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
the thread "Second SketchUp".

From Google:


Google Groups Home
Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
• The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
• Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.

Google doesn't carry any binary groups.

--
Froz...

On Oct 8, 2:24 pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 8, 4:41 pm, "Bill" wrote:



P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
the thread "Second SketchUp".

From Google:

Google Groups Home
Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
• The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
• Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.

R

Here's another link to something like ABPW- http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
Thanks, DJ!

On Oct 8, 5:29*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 8, 4:41 pm, "Bill" wrote:
P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
the thread "Second SketchUp".

From Google:

Google Groups Home
* *Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
• * * * *The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
• * * * *Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.

Google doesn't carry any binary groups.

Yeah, I know, or at least I had and then I had forgotten. I had the
link to the hosting site bookmarked on my other laptop but I haven't
switched that stuff over.

Still, Mutha%$^%$ Google.

R

On Oct 8, 5:54*pm, tom wrote:
On Oct 8, 2:24 pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 8, 4:41 pm, "Bill" wrote:

P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
the thread "Second SketchUp".

From Google:

Google Groups Home
* * * * Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
• * * The link you followed may be broken or misspelled.
• * * Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.


Here's another link to something like ABPW- *http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
Thanks, DJ!

Thanks, Tom.

R

Just use over sized holes on all the inner pieces and 13/32 for the
hole in each outer piece. It is the clamping strength that matters not
how tightly it is held internal.

On Oct 8, 1:41*pm, "Bill" wrote:
In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone
(sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
guarantee strength. *I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home
with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. *It occured to me that I could face
"alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if I
drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
may help with alighnment when gluing.

I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
and cover them for the sake of appearence.

Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?

Thanks,
Bill

P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal
design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in
the thread "Second SketchUp".

On Oct 8, 1:41*pm, "Bill" wrote:
In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone
(sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
guarantee strength. *I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home
with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. *It occured to me that I could face
"alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if I
drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
may help with alighnment when gluing.

I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
and cover them for the sake of appearence.

Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.
If you need to align the pieces, use cauls.

Luigi

"Luigi Zanasi" wrote:

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.

Agreed.

If you need to align the pieces, use cauls.

Follow my glue up schedule, cauls won't be req'd.

Lew


Luigi

"Luigi Zanasi" wrote in message
...
On Oct 8, 1:41 pm, "Bill" wrote:
In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago,
someone
(sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home
with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I could face
"alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if
I
drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s)
may help with alighnment when gluing.

I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod
and cover them for the sake of appearence.

Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.
If you need to align the pieces, use cauls.

Luigi

Might they add support around the machinist's vise, an area which would be
subject
to some pounding?

Bill

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Luigi Zanasi" wrote:

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.

Agreed.

Luigi


Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back, unless
someone can suggest
what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?

"Bill" wrote:

Yes, I'm going to follow the glue-up schedule you suggested Lew.
The only deviation
I was considering was flipping every other board side-ways so that
all of the grain runs
in the same direction rather than flipping them end-over-end.

This top will be your basic Sherman Tank.

I wouldn't sweat grain orientation.

A flying red horse won't see the grain orientation from a 1,000 ft.

It's about time to pack up my new antique planes for the winter as
its starting to get cool
here in the midwest.

That's why I leftG.

What is your part of the "Midwest"?

Lew

Bill wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
"Luigi Zanasi" wrote:

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.

Agreed.

Luigi


Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back, unless
someone can suggest
what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?


I needed some storage for all kinds of material. I used two 1/2"
threaded rods, a 4" x 4" x 8', and two 1-1/2" 6' angle irons to hang a
4' x 8' OSB platform with 3/4" angle irons to support the edges from the
gar^h^h^Hshop ceiling. all kinds of crap can be stored up there much to
the OverLord/SWMBO's chagrin.

- Doug

On 10/08/2009 02:41 PM, Bill wrote:
In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone
(sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to
guarantee strength.

Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?

Personally...none. The wood will want to expand and contract with
humidity changes. The steel rod won't.

I built my bench with a laminated maple slab top, no end caps, no
aprons. It sits on two trestle ends. Very similar to the knockdown
Holtzhapffel by Chris Schwarz.

Chris

On Oct 8, 5:34*pm, "Bill" wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message

"Luigi Zanasi" wrote:

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.

Agreed.

Luigi

Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back, unless
someone can suggest
what it might come in handy for... * Maybe carp spearing?

Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the
glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project
(there's
a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).

If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and
the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood
doesn't take glue well.

Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are
clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are
easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Oct 8, 5:34 pm, "Bill" wrote:

Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back,
unless
someone can suggest
what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?

Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the
glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project
(there's
a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).

If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and
the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood
doesn't take glue well.

Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are
clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are
easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.

---

I appreciated reading your answer. Thanks! It reminds me that some use
homemade
block-clamps like this in violin making--they just don't need 3/8" diameter!

--Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Oct 8, 5:34 pm, "Bill" wrote:

Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back,
unless
someone can suggest
what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?

Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the
glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project
(there's
a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).

If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and
the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood
doesn't take glue well.

Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are
clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are
easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.

---

I appreciated reading your answer. Thanks! It reminds me that some use
homemade
block-clamps like this in violin making--they just don't need 3/8"
diameter!

--Bill


Another possible use:
I used threaded rod in the base of the workbench I built years ago.
(And still use today.)
My intent was firstly to eliminate racking and secondly to facilitate quick
and easy assembly and disassembly as I had a boat re-building project
on the go and would move all of my woodworking gear down to the
boatyard evrey time I had a week to spare, then back home when I needed
to go back to work. It worked really well.

The stretchers are dowelled but not glued to the uprights. There is a
channel
routed on the inside of each stretcher to house the rod, which then passes
through
the uprights and has a nut and washer on each end, (recessed.)
The URL below shows a *very* rough sketch, which might explain it a little
more clearly

http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3996563278/

On Oct 8, 4:41*pm, "Bill" wrote:

Placement, regardless the number of rods, should (and I suspect you've
thought of this) take into consideration the clamping dog holes, vise
parts, planned or intended.

..

Bill--

Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
alignment aid, there are easier ways.

Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
well.

http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html

ed_h wrote in news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-
:

Bill--

Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
alignment aid, there are easier ways.

Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
well.

http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html

Let me be the first to say "Beautiful!"


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:
ed_h wrote in news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-
:

Bill--

Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
alignment aid, there are easier ways.

Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
well.

http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html

Let me be the first to say "Beautiful!"

Well since "beautiful" is already taken, let ME be the first to say
"Awesome!" :-)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"ed_h" wrote in message
...
Bill--

Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
alignment aid, there are easier ways.

Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
well.

http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html

It looks beautiful and it is inspiring. Thank you for sharing. I have
decided
against using the threaded rods for the reasons you mentioned.

Bill

On Oct 10, 6:40*pm, Steve Turner
wrote:
Han wrote:
ed_h wrote in news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-
:

Bill--

Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. *Even as an
alignment aid, there are easier ways.

Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. *No rods, and it's held up
well.

http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html

Let me be the first to say "Beautiful!"

Well since "beautiful" is already taken, let ME be the first to say
"Awesome!" *:-)

Since I can't use beautiful and awesome, I'll just say WOW!

Luigi

On 11 Oct 2009 01:08:10 GMT, the infamous Han
scrawled the following:

ed_h wrote in news:4f8d2a27-aa3b-4ecc-9c9e-
:

Bill--

Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years
now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an
alignment aid, there are easier ways.

Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up
well.

http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html

Let me be the first to say "Beautiful!"

I'll second that. I like the shop-built metal bits, too. Classy!

---
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight
very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands.
It hopes we've learned something from yesterday.
--John Wayne (1907 - 1979)

"Bill" wrote:

What sort of VISES should we put on this? 7" quick-release for a
front vise? bigger?

Yes and Yes.

Funny you should ask.

The WoodSmithShop just built a work bench, mounted a vice, then added
dog holes.

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/

Check the schedule in your area.

It may still be running.

Lew

"Bill" wrote in message
...



I'm open for suggestions though. I'm finding that building a "small
factory" isn't too easy--and not too cheap either! ; )

Thanks,
Bill



There are some strategies you can adopt to reduce the cost of materials.
Mine is buying at auctions, - liquidations, deceased estates, surplus
inventory, etc.
Using a few basic strategies, it's often possible to buy for a fraction of
retail cost.
It has served me very well. My last lumber purchase was about 5 years ago, -
I ended up with over 6 tons of structural pine and Jarrah for about AUD$300.
(That would have been about US$180 back then.) That's way less than firewood
price. Still got about 2 years supply left.
My advice to those new to auction buying is as follows:
1/. Attend at least 2 or 3 auctions without buying. This gives you a better
idea of how they are conducted and a general idea of the prices being
fetched.
2/. When you do feel confident enough to bid, make sure you have established
a maximum amount that you are prepared to go to. Stick to that. Absolutely!
If your limits are below the market, revise them and wait for the next
auction. Never change them while the auction is in progress.
3/. Research. Know what you are bidding on. Once it is knocked down to you,
you have no recourse. (That's how it operates here in Oz, don't know about
where you are.) I once bid on some cans of paint that I had no intention of
buying, but they were so cheap I put my hand up. There were about ten 4
litre cans of white paint in a stack. I got them for $1 each. When I went to
collect them, I found they were a display sample and there was over 100 cans
of the stuff! It was all listed in the catalogue but I hadn't researched it.
(Paint anyone?)
4/. Be prepared to bid against the dealers, - they are buying to re-sell and
you are competing with them. This means you are going to be buying in bulk,
but in general, very cheaply. The average Mom and Pop can't handle the
bigger lots, so it's basically you and the dealers. They basically set the
prices. Your task is to make a nuisance of yourself. Make no secret of the
fact that you are merely after one or two bulk lots and then you will be
satisfied. If a lot is within your price range, make a bid just before it is
knocked down. One bid only. If a dealer really wants it, he will have to
raise his bid. Do this with any lot that falls within your parameters. This
will get the attention of the dealers. If you don't end up with anything,
you will have cost the trade bidders the price of 2 bids (Yours and theirs
that they were forced to increase.) Over time, chances are that they will
get annoyed enough to let you have a couple of lots just to see what you
will do. Then you can go away happy. (This might take an auction or two to
achieve.)
5/. Be prepared to handle what you have bought. How will you transport it?
Where will you store it? Have you got the workshop facilities to turn it
into what you want?
6/. Most important of all, - have a really good story to tell your wife as
to why you have just arrived home with half a lumber yard in tow. : )

diggerop

"diggerop" toobusy@themoment wrote in message
. au...

6/. Most important of all, - have a really good story to tell your wife as
to why you have just arrived home with half a lumber yard in tow. : )

diggerop


My wife will be happy as long as I don't want to talk about it.
When we go to Lowes, Menards, Harbor Freight, she waits in the
car with a book. Did I mention she doesn't want to talk about it?--no
matter how great a deal it was, or what I want to do with it. I could
be planning to build an ark for God, wouldn't matter. ; )

Bill

On Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:46:02 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:

My wife will be happy as long as I don't want to talk about it.
When we go to Lowes, Menards, Harbor Freight, she waits in the
car with a book. Did I mention she doesn't want to talk about it?--no
matter how great a deal it was, or what I want to do with it. I could
be planning to build an ark for God, wouldn't matter. ; )

Sound like a fine wife... just as long as she doesn't do the same
thing to you.

Following Lew's suggestion, I plan to rip some SYP 2 by 8 lumber in half,
glue the resultant pieces together with the factory cut side down, and sand
the down side to make a workbech top. It will thus be approximately
7.25/2 3.5 inches thick.

The Rockler 9" quick-release vise has drawn my attention. However it has a
maximum
top thickness of 2.75" inches. Since it's important to me to have the vise
level with the top
I have been contemplating a good way to cut the necessary "dado". What
makes this
tricky is that the best side is on the opposite site of the side that needs
to be cut!

One thought would be to put a nice board adjacent to the top and use it as
support
for the router. This might work fine for up to a few inches. Alternately, I
could just cut it and
shim it as necessary. My other ideas seem to break down because the surface
I wish
to cut on may not be flat or level. Always willing to listen to ideas...

--------

I've also been thinking about binding the benchtop with some hardwood. I
was thinking that this
might look good and it may add structural integrity to the front vise (the
rear jaw being seated
in hardwood rather than SYP). Is this latter point a valid concern?

Thank you for listening!
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Following Lew's suggestion, I plan to rip some SYP 2 by 8 lumber in half,
glue the resultant pieces together with the factory cut side down, and
sand
the down side to make a workbech top. It will thus be approximately
7.25/2 3.5 inches thick.

The Rockler 9" quick-release vise has drawn my attention. However it has
a maximum
top thickness of 2.75" inches. Since it's important to me to have the vise
level with the top
I have been contemplating a good way to cut the necessary "dado". What
makes this
tricky is that the best side is on the opposite site of the side that
needs to be cut!

One thought would be to put a nice board adjacent to the top and use it as
support
for the router. This might work fine for up to a few inches. Alternately,
I could just cut it and
shim it as necessary. My other ideas seem to break down because the
surface I wish
to cut on may not be flat or level.
...

Thank you for listening!
Bill

I was thinking of the possibility of using a "bridge". How deep can plunge
routers route (Dewalt 618)?

Bill