Any opinions wanted on how I have been gluing wood. I have been using Tite
Bond yellow with good results. I moisten slightly both surfaces with water.
Then a thin coat of glue brushed on both surfaces and clamped. My reason
for doing it that way is I think the glue penetrates the wood better and get
a stronger joint. Is there a better way? WW

On Jul 17, 9:43*pm, "WW" wrote:
Any opinions wanted on how I have been gluing wood. I have been using Tite
Bond yellow with good results. I moisten slightly both surfaces with water.

"WW" wrote in message
. ..
Any opinions wanted on how I have been gluing wood. I have been using Tite
Bond yellow with good results. I moisten slightly both surfaces with
water. Then a thin coat of glue brushed on both surfaces and clamped. My
reason for doing it that way is I think the glue penetrates the wood
better and get a stronger joint. Is there a better way? WW


Time and again, it has been proven that a good glue joint is stronger than
the wood itself. There is no advantage to moistening the surface and if
fact, it may make for a weaker joint if it does not allows the solids in the
adhesive to attach themselves tot he surface.

If the joint is dusty, it may be an advantage to wipe it wet or dry so the
dust is not a barrier. .

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"WW" wrote in message
. ..
Any opinions wanted on how I have been gluing wood. I have been using
Tite Bond yellow with good results. I moisten slightly both surfaces with
water. Then a thin coat of glue brushed on both surfaces and clamped. My
reason for doing it that way is I think the glue penetrates the wood
better and get a stronger joint. Is there a better way? WW


Yes, don't use water! Water dilutes the glue.
Thanks for follow ups. I thought I was doing good but guess not. I will
forget the water. Warren

I moisten the board faces, along the edges, not the glue joint faces.
My idea of moistening the board's faces is to prevent the squeeze-out
from adhering to or penetrating into the faces, causing a "show-line",
after the glue has dried. I do wet-wipe the squeeze-out, also, once
clamped. Pre-wetting seems to allow for easier clean-up, also. I've
always reasoned this initial wetting helps prevent any glue
penetration into the faces, not assist with penetration. Seems to
work for me.

I would think, if a glue needs penetration assistance, then it should/
would be written on the bottle/container as so.

Sonny

On Sat, 18 Jul 2009 07:39:34 -0700, Sonny wrote:

I moisten the board faces, along the edges, not the glue joint faces. My
idea of moistening the board's faces is to prevent the squeeze-out from
adhering to or penetrating into the faces, causing a "show-line", after
the glue has dried.

I use wax instead of water. I also prefinish where possible.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Sonny" wrote in message
...
I moisten the board faces, along the edges, not the glue joint faces.
My idea of moistening the board's faces is to prevent the squeeze-out
from adhering to or penetrating into the faces, causing a "show-line",
after the glue has dried. I do wet-wipe the squeeze-out, also, once
clamped. Pre-wetting seems to allow for easier clean-up, also. I've
always reasoned this initial wetting helps prevent any glue
penetration into the faces, not assist with penetration. Seems to
work for me.

I would think, if a glue needs penetration assistance, then it should/
would be written on the bottle/container as so.

Sonny

Glue does not penetrate as much as you would think. Better bonds are made
on shiney smooth surfaces than those that are not .

"WW" wrote in message
. ..
Any opinions wanted on how I have been gluing wood. I have been using Tite
Bond yellow with good results. I moisten slightly both surfaces with
water. Then a thin coat of glue brushed on both surfaces and clamped. My
reason for doing it that way is I think the glue penetrates the wood
better and get a stronger joint. Is there a better way? WW

Maybe, maybe not. Why worry about it if it has been working well for you?

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...
"WW" wrote in message
. ..
Any opinions wanted on how I have been gluing wood. I have been using
Tite Bond yellow with good results. I moisten slightly both surfaces with
water. Then a thin coat of glue brushed on both surfaces and clamped. My
reason for doing it that way is I think the glue penetrates the wood
better and get a stronger joint. Is there a better way? WW

Maybe, maybe not. Why worry about it if it has been working well for you?



Well you can eat a little poison every day with out immediate ill results.

"Leon" wrote in message
news

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...
"WW" wrote in message
. ..
Any opinions wanted on how I have been gluing wood. I have been using
Tite Bond yellow with good results. I moisten slightly both surfaces
with water. Then a thin coat of glue brushed on both surfaces and
clamped. My reason for doing it that way is I think the glue penetrates
the wood better and get a stronger joint. Is there a better way? WW

Maybe, maybe not. Why worry about it if it has been working well for you?

Well you can eat a little poison every day with out immediate ill results.

And that has what to do with gluing wood?

Glue spreads a little easier and more evenly on the moistened surface, and
he says he has good results. Just how much added moisture will be
problematic? Do we now need "summer" glue and "winter" glue?

On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 18:49:40 -0700 (PDT), GarageWoodworks
wrote:

On Jul 17, 9:43*pm, "WW" wrote:
Any opinions wanted on how I have been gluing wood. I have been using Tite
Bond yellow with good results. I moisten slightly both surfaces with water.
Then a thin coat of glue brushed on both surfaces and clamped. *My reason
for doing it that way is I think the glue penetrates the wood better and get
a stronger joint. Is there a better way? WW

Yes, don't pre-dampen. It's not necessary and may create weaker
joints.

TB is the best on the market, IMO...
If it worked better on damp wood, it would say that on the instructions..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
news


And that has what to do with gluing wood?

Glue spreads a little easier and more evenly on the moistened surface, and
he says he has good results. Just how much added moisture will be
problematic? Do we now need "summer" glue and "winter" glue?



Faliure down the road from a watered down aplication today may look fine
today.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
news


And that has what to do with gluing wood?

Glue spreads a little easier and more evenly on the moistened surface,
and he says he has good results. Just how much added moisture will be
problematic? Do we now need "summer" glue and "winter" glue?

Faliure down the road from a watered down aplication today may look fine
today.

I'll grant that as a possibility. Just how much moisture are we talking
about here?

MikeWhy wrote:

I'll grant that as a possibility. Just how much moisture are we talking
about here?

From Titebond FAQ:

"Most of our wood glues can be thinned with water up to 5% by weight or
by volume. Adding more than 5% water to our glues will decrease the bond
strength."

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote:
-------------------------------------
From Titebond FAQ:

"Most of our wood glues can be thinned with water up to 5% by weight
or by volume. Adding more than 5% water to our glues will decrease
the bond strength."
-----------------------------------------

SFWIW

5% must be a general purpose seat of the pants number.

5% is also the max amount of denatured alcohol for diluting epoxy.

Lew

On Sat, 18 Jul 2009 14:23:24 -0500, "MikeWhy"
wrote:

And that has what to do with gluing wood?

Only as an analogy that illustrates the fact that just because an
action may appear to have immediate benefits without obvious ill
effects, that doesn't necessarily mean it's a good idea for the long
term.

My cardiologist prescribed low doses of a rat poison for me after my
first heart attack. But that was for a short time period. Good
immediate benefit, but contraindicated for the long term.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

Tom Veatch wrote:
....
My cardiologist prescribed low doses of a rat poison for me after my
first heart attack. But that was for a short time period. Good
immediate benefit, but contraindicated for the long term.
....

OTOH, others continue on it for extended periods of many years...

--

"Tom Veatch" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Jul 2009 14:23:24 -0500, "MikeWhy"
wrote:

My cardiologist prescribed low doses of a rat poison for me after my
first heart attack.

Over the counter beats pharmacy grade any day.

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Tom Veatch wrote:
...
My cardiologist prescribed low doses of a rat poison for me after my
first heart attack. But that was for a short time period. Good
immediate benefit, but contraindicated for the long term.
...

OTOH, others continue on it for extended periods of many years...


AND they "eventually" die. :~)