Hi all, one simple question.
I have to cut a straight line in a piece of laminated wood. Should I
use the orbital motion or not? The wood is about 1 1/2" thick and
about 24 inches wide and I'd like to have a clear cut since this is
going to be my next laminated kitchen countertop.

Someone also suggested me to use blades intented for metal instead of
wood as they are more "gentle" when biting into the laminated wood,
can you confirm this?

thanks in advance, I don't have a lot of familiarity with these tools

"rooy" wrote in message
...
Hi all, one simple question.
I have to cut a straight line in a piece of laminated wood. Should I
use the orbital motion or not?

No. Orbital is more aggressive but rougher.

Someone also suggested me to use blades intented for metal instead of
wood as they are more "gentle" when biting into the laminated wood,
can you confirm this?

Use a bosch "Progressor" blade for wood.

You can buy them he
http://www.toolbarn.com/category/bosch/bladejigsaw/

That have dozens of blade types for specific applications: you can drill
down to get specs he

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/A....aspx?catid=98


-Steve

"rooy" wrote in message
...
Hi all, one simple question.
I have to cut a straight line in a piece of laminated wood. Should I
use the orbital motion or not? The wood is about 1 1/2" thick and
about 24 inches wide and I'd like to have a clear cut since this is
going to be my next laminated kitchen countertop.

As Stephen indicated, going to orbital will only create a more agressive,
faster, and rough cut.



Someone also suggested me to use blades intented for metal instead of
wood as they are more "gentle" when biting into the laminated wood,
can you confirm this?

NO! If you want a smooth cut in wood buy blades with no set in the teeth.
Basically blades that are smooth on both sides. Bosch brand blades are
going to be a good choice in brands.




thanks in advance, I don't have a lot of familiarity with these tools

Thanks for the links.
I guess I'll have to delve into Bosch website and see what's right for
me.
Thanks!

rooy wrote:
: Thanks for the links.
: I guess I'll have to delve into Bosch website and see what's right for
: me.


That's your best bet. Take a look at these, once you get to
Bosch's site - -they seem intended for that purpose:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223G0/...0&linkCode=asn


I have used their new T308B blades on wood, and they're fantastic. Check
the Boch website for specs, and read the reviews here

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T308B-2-...6296058&sr=8-1

and here

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...rom+Bosch.aspx

I don;t know how they would work with laminate, but in wood they produce
a remarkably clean and smooth cut (for a jigsaw).

-- Andy Barss

"rooy" wrote:

Hi all, one simple question.
I have to cut a straight line in a piece of laminated wood.

I have one simple question in return.

Is this a totally wooden laminate or is there a plastic counter top
materiaql also involved?

Lew

On 30 Giu, 01:07, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"rooy" wrote:
Hi all, one simple question.
I have to cut a straight line in a piece of laminated wood.

I have one simple question in return.

Is this a totally wooden laminate or is there a plastic counter top
materiaql also involved?

Lew

It's a particle board covered by a melamine laminate.

"rooy" wrote:

It's a particle board covered by a melamine laminate.

Attempting to cut the above without "chipping" the melamine can be
iffy at best with a jig saw.

Use a good Bosch BiMetal blade that clears on the down stroke.

Bosch makes a 10 TPI down stroke blade specifically for this
application.

I forgot the blade number but check the 101 family.

Tape the cut line with masking tape, especially the top surface and
TAKE YOUR TIME.

Cutting thru the tape will minimize the possibility of chipping.

If you rush things, the blade will bend outwards leaving a crapping
surface.

Any chance you have a router or know someone who has one?

A router is the surest way to get a square clean cut.

Have fun.

Lew

On 1 Lug, 10:35, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Attempting to cut the above without "chipping" the melamine can be
iffy at best with a jig saw.

Use a good Bosch BiMetal blade that clears on the down stroke.

Bosch makes a 10 TPI down stroke blade specifically for this
application.

I forgot the blade number but check the 101 family.

Tape the cut line with masking tape, especially the top surface and
TAKE YOUR TIME.

Cutting thru the tape will minimize the possibility of chipping.

If you rush things, the blade will bend outwards leaving a crapping
surface.

Any chance you have a router or know someone who has one?

A router is the surest way to get a square clean cut.

Have fun.

Lew


Don't worry! I will go as slow as I possibly can! Unfortunately I have
no router available, so I have to use the jigsaw and try to be as
careful as possible, with the help of some masking tape and a jig.
Looking at Bosch blades I think I'll go with a T308BF or a T101BRF as
a second choice. They have a blade specifically for laminates
(T101BIF) but I think it's too short for my board.

"rooy" wrote:


Looking at Bosch blades I think I'll go with a T308BF or a T101BRF
as
a second choice. They have a blade specifically for laminates
(T101BIF) but I think it's too short for my board

Not familar with T308BF.

T101BRF is what I had in mind.

Is the T101BIF a shorter blade than T101BRF?

How thick is this top?

Lew

Hi,

Just a quick word of warning. The down stroke blade tends to drive the
whole saw away from the surface and quickly the blade is totally out of
the material. Just go slow, keep a good grip on the saw and practice first.

Thanks
Roger Haar


Lew Hodgett wrote:
"rooy" wrote:

It's a particle board covered by a melamine laminate.

Attempting to cut the above without "chipping" the melamine can be
iffy at best with a jig saw.

Use a good Bosch BiMetal blade that clears on the down stroke.

Bosch makes a 10 TPI down stroke blade specifically for this
application.

I forgot the blade number but check the 101 family.

Tape the cut line with masking tape, especially the top surface and
TAKE YOUR TIME.

Cutting thru the tape will minimize the possibility of chipping.

If you rush things, the blade will bend outwards leaving a crapping
surface.

Any chance you have a router or know someone who has one?

A router is the surest way to get a square clean cut.

Have fun.

Lew

On Jul 1, 8:48*am, rooy wrote:
On 1 Lug, 10:35, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:







Attempting to cut the above without "chipping" the melamine can be
iffy at best with a jig saw.

Use a good Bosch BiMetal blade that clears on the down stroke.

Bosch makes a 10 TPI down stroke blade specifically for this
application.

I forgot the blade number but check the 101 family.

Tape the cut line with masking tape, especially the top surface and
TAKE YOUR TIME.

Cutting thru the tape will minimize the possibility of chipping.

If you rush things, the blade will bend outwards leaving a crapping
surface.

Any chance you have a router or know someone who has one?

A router is the surest way to get a square clean cut.

Have fun.

Lew

Don't worry! I will go as slow as I possibly can! Unfortunately I have
no router available, so I have to use the jigsaw and try to be as
careful as possible, with the help of some masking tape and a jig.
Looking at Bosch blades I think I'll go with a T308BF or a T101BRF as
a second choice. They have a blade specifically for laminates
(T101BIF) but I think it's too short for my board.

Use a straight piece of wood as a guide....also, use a shoe for the
base of the jigsaw so it doesn't mar the surface.... (Bosch jigsaws
come with one, you can make them as well

shelly

Sorry for reviving this old thread. Just to let you know that I
finally made the cut with the jigsaw on my countertop!
I used all the suggestions you gave me to make a straight cut (good
Bosch blades, very light forward pressure, no orbital motion, a piece
of wood as a guide, masking tape on the cut line, some protection
under the shoe of the jigsaw and above all, PATIENCE!).
The final result, though not perfect, is quite good!
The only difficulty I found, was in keeping the blade vertical: after
some cutting, the blade, while going inside the wood exactly on the
cut line, had a tendency not to cut exactly up-down. Maybe it is the
thickness of the wood, or I was pushing to hard against the guide and
didn't realize it. Fortunately the beveled part of the countertop is
not visible.
Anyway, considering I never had a jigsaw in my hands before, I'm very
satisfied with the outcome!

Thanks again for your help!