"Lee Michaels" writes:

"mac davis" wrote

For our karaoke gig, we've found that placing pen blanks on each side of
the amp
and mic receiver, as sort of foot risers, increases the air flow/cooling
dramatically..
(the wireless receiver is stacked on the amp)

Pen blanks, eh??

Maybe you should write an article on other unexpected and original uses of
pen blanks.


Nah - go into business selling them to audiophiles. You can make big bucks
on something like this; charge $100 ea. for 4 blanks and claim they increase
the sound quality if inserted between the amp and cd player.

Use a tropical hardwood and claim special 'damping' due to the internal
resonance of the wood fibers interacting with frequencies in a narrow
inaudible band above 20khz.

The resulting sound will be cleaner, bass will be crisper and the
high frequencies will shine.

scott
(there's a sucker born every second)

"Scott Lurndal" wrote
"Lee Michaels" writes:

"mac davis" wrote

For our karaoke gig, we've found that placing pen blanks on each side of
the amp
and mic receiver, as sort of foot risers, increases the air
flow/cooling
dramatically..
(the wireless receiver is stacked on the amp)

Pen blanks, eh??

Maybe you should write an article on other unexpected and original uses of
pen blanks.


Nah - go into business selling them to audiophiles. You can make big
bucks
on something like this; charge $100 ea. for 4 blanks and claim they
increase
the sound quality if inserted between the amp and cd player.

Use a tropical hardwood and claim special 'damping' due to the internal
resonance of the wood fibers interacting with frequencies in a narrow
inaudible band above 20khz.

The resulting sound will be cleaner, bass will be crisper and the
high frequencies will shine.

scott
(there's a sucker born every second)

Ahhh....., Monster Spacer Blocks!!

All the audiophile magazines will eat this stuff up!

(Scott Lurndal) writes:


Use a tropical hardwood and claim special 'damping' due to the internal
resonance of the wood fibers interacting with frequencies in a narrow
inaudible band above 20khz.

You joke, but......

(there's a sucker born every second)

...and most of them watch cable tv. ("But wait! There's more")

nb

For sensitive gear I prefer using a push fan coupled with a dust
filter. Air flow generates a lot of dust bunnies and the more that you
catch (using say, an electrostatic filter) the better. If you use
suction then the dust has already passed over your expensive gear.

On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 09:52:08 GMT, Scatter
wrote:

If you use
suction then the dust has already passed over your expensive gear.

Unless you filter the inlet.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

Upscale wrote:

This was one area I was wondering about. With the acrylic doors in the
front, I can't envision any effective way to introduce any placed inlets.

Can you add a gap between the front doors and the bottom shelf?

However, as Leon has mentioned, maybe I'm worrying needlessly. It is a
higher end Yamaha receiver about a year old and might not need the attention
I'm focusing on heat dissipation. I'm not a sound volume freak running it at
3,000 decibels volume every chance I get.

It all depends on the type of amplifier circuit and power supply. Many
new amps use class D circuits, which are much more efficient (though
often less accurate) than the old class AB designs, and so put out less
heat. Generally you can tell by the weight/size of the amp...class D
ones are usually lighter and shorter, while class AB amps are generally
taller/heavier due to the large transformer(s) in them.

Chris

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
Can you add a gap between the front doors and the bottom shelf?

Nothing that wouldn't look out of place. One thing I might consider in the
future is fan assisted air input up through the bottom shelf with fan output
somewhere near the top back of the unit. That type of air flow wouldn't have
any effect on the aesthetics of the entertainment centre.

ones are usually lighter and shorter, while class AB amps are generally
taller/heavier due to the large transformer(s) in them.

Going solely on that basis, it's an AB amp weighing in at close to 50 lbs.
At least that's what it felt like when I was struggling to lift it in place.
For now, I'm not going to worry about it. The entire back of the
entertainment unit is open. If and when I get around to closing it in, I'll
measure the temperature difference and decide then if I need to run some
type of additional cooling assistance.

Two things:

First (on topic, at least to OP): I'm surprised no one has mentioned
this before, but why not get a thermostat controlled fan? You can get
fans that only turn on if the temperature is higher that a
threshold. So, what I would recomend:

Install a thermostat controlled fan, near the top back of the cabinet,
blowing air outwards. Install a hole near the bottom of the cabinet
(slightly bigger than the hole for the fan), with a dust filter on it
(don't forget to clean it every few months). This will keep dust out
of the system, noise down when your not overheating, and the
temperature down when you are.


Second thing, off topic, but a personal crusade of mine: buy HDMI
cables on-line. Having worked the past few years in the industry
(specifically I wrote the HDMI firmware for high end TV's), I can tell
you that in all normal cirucmstances (less than 20' cables, HDMI 1.3
certified cables for HDMI 1.3, etc), the picture/sound you get with
monster cables is EXACTLY the same as the picture/sound your recieve
for a $10 cable you buy on-line. Monster (and other brands) of cables
give the retail stores really high margins, so they don't bother
selling reasonable priced cables. I'm not sure if I'm more peeved by
the fact that the retail stores think that I should be stupid enough
to buy thier cables, or that there are enough people buying these
cables at the outrageous prices to allow the retail stores to sell
nothing but. Anyway, just had to get that out... phew... feel better
now.



John

John wrote:

Second thing, off topic, but a personal crusade of mine: buy HDMI
cables on-line. Having worked the past few years in the industry
(specifically I wrote the HDMI firmware for high end TV's), I can tell
you that in all normal cirucmstances (less than 20' cables, HDMI 1.3
certified cables for HDMI 1.3, etc), the picture/sound you get with
monster cables is EXACTLY the same as the picture/sound your recieve
for a $10 cable you buy on-line.

The same is true for RCA cable, toslink, subwoofer cable, speaker cable,
etc.

You can definately get cheaper stuff, but I've found that
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/ has pretty high grade stuff
(Belden/Canare cable, Canare/Neutrik connectors) at reasonable prices
for what you get.

Chris

Chris Friesen wrote:
John wrote:

Second thing, off topic, but a personal crusade of mine: buy HDMI
cables on-line. Having worked the past few years in the industry
(specifically I wrote the HDMI firmware for high end TV's), I can tell
you that in all normal cirucmstances (less than 20' cables, HDMI 1.3
certified cables for HDMI 1.3, etc), the picture/sound you get with
monster cables is EXACTLY the same as the picture/sound your recieve
for a $10 cable you buy on-line.

The same is true for RCA cable, toslink, subwoofer cable, speaker cable,
etc.

You can definately get cheaper stuff, but I've found that
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/ has pretty high grade stuff
(Belden/Canare cable, Canare/Neutrik connectors) at reasonable prices
for what you get.

I've bought HDMI cables and audio cables and video cables at

http://www.cablewholesale.com

All cables were super cheap (half what bluejeanscable charges for HDMI)
and very high quality. I would highly recommend them to anyone looking
for any kind of cable. The web site works great, and buying is easy as
well. No affiliation whatsoever, just a happy customer for at least 3
years now.

--
Jack
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