Hi, All,

I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. $4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. What else should I watch out for? Any tips????

Thanks for any comments.

Rich.....

wrote:
Hi, All,

I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. $4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. What else should I watch out for? Any tips????

Thanks for any comments.


Sounds like a fun project.

No suggestions, but it's worth wondering: If you paid $4 at a pawn shop,
what did the original ower get? And how hard up was he for the piddly
amount?

On the other hand, he could have used the saw in productive work - dull
though it may be - and probably earned more than he got from the pawn shop.

HeyBub wrote:
wrote:
Hi, All,

I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. $4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. What else should I watch out for? Any tips????

Thanks for any comments.


Sounds like a fun project.

No suggestions, but it's worth wondering: If you paid $4 at a pawn shop,
what did the original ower get? And how hard up was he for the piddly
amount?

On the other hand, he could have used the saw in productive work - dull
though it may be - and probably earned more than he got from the pawn shop.


Now you are being logical. If he could have worked and supported
himself, he would not have qualified for as much wellfare.

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
HeyBub wrote:
wrote:
Hi, All,

I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. $4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. What else should I watch out for? Any tips????

Thanks for any comments.


Sounds like a fun project.

No suggestions, but it's worth wondering: If you paid $4 at a pawn shop,
what did the original ower get? And how hard up was he for the piddly
amount?

On the other hand, he could have used the saw in productive work - dull
though it may be - and probably earned more than he got from the pawn
shop.
Now you are being logical. If he could have worked and supported himself,
he would not have qualified for as much wellfare.

Logical??

Who supports themselves with a handsaw anymore? I see the point, but a
handsaw is not a production tool. And it involves at least a little skill.
And skills are in short supply these days.

wrote:

I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. $4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. What else should I watch out for? Any tips????

Thanks for any comments.

I feel like I'm stating the obvious...

Sand those edges as smooth as you can, then use a roundover bit in your
router to make the grip as comfortable as possible, and apply enough
coats of varnish to fill the pores - your hands will thank you every
time you use the saw.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On 5/21/2009 6:43 AM spake thus:

I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. $4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. What else should I watch out for? Any tips????

Yes; don't use oak. You'll notice the existing handle is some kind of
hardwood without large pores (beech or similar). I'd use something like
that instead.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 5/21/2009 6:43 AM spake thus:

I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. $4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. What else should I watch out for? Any tips????

Yes; don't use oak. You'll notice the existing handle is some kind of
hardwood without large pores (beech or similar). I'd use something like
that instead.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism


I possess a nineteenth century Disston back saw that came to me with the
handle in pieces. I glued it back together and used it for a pattern. I made
a new handle out of cherry wood. It is not a perfect reproduction, but it is
a very good handle. I agree oak is not a good wood for the application. A
lot of saws have applewood handles. LN uses maple. I think walnut would be
good as well.

On May 21, 2:23*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 5/21/2009 6:43 AM spake thus:

* *I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. *$4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. *I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. *Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

* *I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. *What else should I watch out for? *Any tips????

Yes; don't use oak. You'll notice the existing handle is some kind of
hardwood without large pores (beech or similar). I'd use something like
that instead.

I was going to say the same thing earlier when I saw the OP, then I
read he'd already cut out the handle from oak so I didn't want to rain
on his parade. Since it's drizzling already...

Consider the oak a practice handle. Pick a nice fruitwood piece of
stock, of something with tight grain and small pores. If you'd done
it out of Japanese oak, that would be a different story.

R

On May 21, 3:45*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On May 21, 2:23*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 5/21/2009 6:43 AM spake thus:

* *I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. *$4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. *I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. *Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

* *I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. *What else should I watch out for? *Any tips????

Yes; don't use oak. You'll notice the existing handle is some kind of
hardwood without large pores (beech or similar). I'd use something like
that instead.

I was going to say the same thing earlier when I saw the OP, then I
read he'd already cut out the handle from oak so I didn't want to rain
on his parade. *Since it's drizzling already...

Consider the oak a practice handle. *Pick a nice fruitwood piece of
stock, of something with tight grain and small pores. *If you'd done
it out of Japanese oak, that would be a different story.

R

Lee Valley has just the thing for saw handles.....
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...64&cat=51&ap=1

JP

I was kinda moving to the direction of the oak as a test handle. A
"prototype!" I'll look around for some scraps, maybe laminate up some
hardwood. I had planned to let the router have it's way with the
edges, thanks for the reminder to get it smoooooooth to the touch.

Thanks for the comments.....

Jay Pique wrote:
Lee Valley has just the thing for saw handles.....
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...64&cat=51&ap=1

JP

Now THAT is cool beans. Chalk up another one for Lee Valley.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Yes indeed! - Wish I had one for bronze and steel.

Martin

Steve Turner wrote:
Jay Pique wrote:
Lee Valley has just the thing for saw handles.....
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...64&cat=51&ap=1

JP

Now THAT is cool beans. Chalk up another one for Lee Valley.

Jay Pique wrote in
:

On May 21, 3:45*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On May 21, 2:23*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 5/21/2009 6:43 AM spake thus:

* *I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a
pawn
shop. *$4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. *I c
an
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for
my hand, decided to make a new one from oak. *Oak is what I have
handy without reaching.

* *I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with t
he
bandsaw. *What else should I watch out for? *Any tips????

Yes; don't use oak. You'll notice the existing handle is some kind
of hardwood without large pores (beech or similar). I'd use
something like that instead.

I was going to say the same thing earlier when I saw the OP, then I
read he'd already cut out the handle from oak so I didn't want to
rain on his parade. *Since it's drizzling already...

Consider the oak a practice handle. *Pick a nice fruitwood piece of
stock, of something with tight grain and small pores. *If you'd done
it out of Japanese oak, that would be a different story.

R

Lee Valley has just the thing for saw handles.....
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...64&cat=51&ap=1

JP




Darn it!! I just added another item of theirs to my wish list. Now I just
have to come up with the money.

Larry Kraus wrote:
Lee Valley has just the thing for saw handles.....
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...64&cat=51&ap=1

JP



Darn it!! I just added another item of theirs to my wish list. Now I just
have to come up with the money.

$65 to repair a $4 saw?

I agree that this one cool tool, but I have a financial conflict when
it comes to spending this much for a machine tool accessory intended
to modify only a portion of a part of a hand tool. Unless I need to
go into production mode, a common round over bit and/or some sandpaper
will achieve the same results., while keeping my Normite/Galoot ratio
at a steady level.

shaking my head

Larry, Larry, you just don't understand! :-)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On May 23, 8:35*am, Steve Turner wrote:
Larry Kraus wrote:
Lee Valley has just the thing for saw handles.....
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...64&cat=51&ap=1

JP

Darn it!! I just added another item of theirs to my wish list. Now I just
have to come up with the money.

$65 to repair a $4 saw?

I agree that this one cool tool, but I have a financial conflict when
it comes to spending this much for a machine tool accessory intended
to modify only *a portion of a part of a hand tool. Unless I need to
go into production mode, a common round over bit and/or some sandpaper
will achieve the same results., while keeping my Normite/Galoot ratio
at a steady level.

shaking my head

Larry, Larry, you just don't understand! *:-)

--
See Nad. *See Nad go. *Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Mighty Clever tool from Leevalley, but I have a hard time buying a
tool that will only do one job. For the money, I'd rather have 3-4
roundover bits in standard sizes.

On May 24, 7:40*am, wrote:

Mighty Clever tool from Leevalley, but I have a hard time buying a
tool that will only do one job. *For the money, I'd rather have 3-4
roundover bits in standard sizes.

That's the money part of the equation, where's your time factor fit
in? If it saved you five minutes every time you used it, how many
times would you have to use it before it "paid for itself"?

R

On May 24, 8:41*am, RicodJour wrote:
On May 24, 7:40*am, wrote:



Mighty Clever tool from Leevalley, but I have a hard time buying a
tool that will only do one job. *For the money, I'd rather have 3-4
roundover bits in standard sizes.

That's the money part of the equation, where's your time factor fit
in? *If it saved you five minutes every time you used it, how many
times would you have to use it before it "paid for itself"?

R
Can't disagree with the time savings, but woodworking for me is a
hobby. I don't get extra credit for finishing early! Same with using
a scraper, chisels, and hand saws. If some unwashed cretin from the
18th century can build a fine piece of furniture with what he had,
then I like to see if I can come close.

I do "cheat" with power tools - hey, it's a Hobby!, but I don't mind
some hand filing, carving, and sanding,

On Thu, 21 May 2009 10:25:08 -0500, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

wrote:

I just picked up a Diston hand saw, about 16 inches long at a pawn
shop. $4 with a cracked handle, and dull as a butter knife. I can
fix the sharpness, and since the handle was a tad too small for my
hand, decided to make a new one from oak. Oak is what I have handy
without reaching.

I used another saw as a template, and have it rough cut with the
bandsaw. What else should I watch out for? Any tips????

Thanks for any comments.

I feel like I'm stating the obvious...

Sand those edges as smooth as you can, then use a roundover bit in your
router to make the grip as comfortable as possible, and apply enough
coats of varnish to fill the pores - your hands will thank you every
time you use the saw.

Router? Nah. This is the perfect time to buy a Nicholson #50
cabinetmaker's rasp if you don't already own one.

Tools, man. Thinks "new tools!"

--
The only reason I would take up exercising is
so that I could hear heavy breathing again.

On 25 Oct, 10:54, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 21 May 2009 10:25:08 -0500, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

Sand those edges as smooth as you can, then use a roundover bit in your
router to make the grip as comfortable as possible, and apply enough
coats of varnish to fill the pores - your hands will thank you every
time you use the saw.

Router? *Nah. *This is the perfect time to buy a Nicholson #50
cabinetmaker's rasp if you don't already own one.

I also wouldn't use a roundover bit - although maybe my Queen Anne
table edging bit.

Factory-made saw handles are in some ways too thin, as they're a
constant thickness right across and this makes them a little too thin
to support the palm. You can carve one for your own hands, build one
up where needed, or just ignore it. As the main force is back & forth,
this isn't actually a problem.

However what it does mean is that you don't want a full roundover to
the edges of the handle, as a router bit cuts. What's better is
something that rounds the surface of the edge, but it leaves the
corners in place, at angle of maybe 120 rather than 90 or a tangent.
If you do round the corners fully, you'll find that the handle does
now start to feel too thin, as there's not enough edge, or flat enough
edge, to locate your fingers.

Best wood IMHO is curly elm, as it avoids the short grain breakage
problem. Looks great too. Maples probably good, if you're in Maple-
land. Oak's OK too, as is beech (popular in Europe), but they will
snap through if you drop them.