OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes.
I have a plunge router and a router table.
Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table
together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what is
the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope it
is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non
existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting and
screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring to
novice status!

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate power
and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power switch in.

Not the best setup all the way around. Plunge routers really aren't
well suited for router table use unless it is the type with a
removable body that can be used in router as plunge or fixed. In that
case the fixed configuration can usually work well (depending on the
router.). One of the things I have fought with router table setups is
the router wanting to change depth during use, which screws up your
cuts. Plunge machines just add a little more variable where you don't
need it.

Does the squeeze trigger have an on-lock button?" If so, just use it
in the locked configuration. Otherwise you will have to come up with
a way to keep the trigger squeezed (clamp, rubber band, etc.- none of
which is very safe).

RonB

Thanks for your swift reply,

I think you have confirmed my worries and suspicions. Although I am on a
limited budget, being a novice I suspect I will be better served if I can
save my pennies and get hold of a router of the type you have suggested (I
have seen videos of them in use but not yet investigated them). Limited
budget or not, if what I have isnt the right tool for the job then I should
try to get the right tool. Particularly in the light of what you have said
about the switch (no it dosent have a lock on switch).

Thanks again.

John

wrote in message
...
Not the best setup all the way around. Plunge routers really aren't
well suited for router table use unless it is the type with a
removable body that can be used in router as plunge or fixed. In that
case the fixed configuration can usually work well (depending on the
router.). One of the things I have fought with router table setups is
the router wanting to change depth during use, which screws up your
cuts. Plunge machines just add a little more variable where you don't
need it.

Does the squeeze trigger have an on-lock button?" If so, just use it
in the locked configuration. Otherwise you will have to come up with
a way to keep the trigger squeezed (clamp, rubber band, etc.- none of
which is very safe).

RonB

"Giganews" wrote in message
...
OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes.
I have a plunge router and a router table.
Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table
together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what is
the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope it
is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non
existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting
and screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring
to novice status!

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate
power and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power
switch in.

I worked with an old Bosh plunge router that hung upside down for about 20
years and it was at best a PIA

However you can do a couple of things to make adjustments easier. 1. Remove
the plunge springs that assist you raise the router when it is in its
normal position but as you have found out they make it pretty stiff when
worked upside down. 2. Mount an inexpensive scissor jack under the router
for adjustments.

On Apr 20, 3:17 pm, "Giganews" wrote:
OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes.
I have a plunge router and a router table.
Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table
together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what is
the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope it
is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non
existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting and
screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring to
novice status!

For a plunge router in a router table typically you remove the spring
which makes it easier. When the router is upside-down you're fighting
the spring and the weight of the motor. This is easier on some
routers than others. You would use the depth stop to adjust the
height.

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate power
and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power switch in.

Never had a router with a momentary switch. I would get an auxiliary
switch like this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401

And find a way to keep the switch on the router pressed in all the
time.


-Kevin

Thanks for the reply - I am going to try the spring removal - The table that
I got does have an auxilary switch.

The router was cheap enough that I might find a way to permantly activate
the switch and just use the auxilary. Thanks again.

John

wrote in message
...
On Apr 20, 3:17 pm, "Giganews" wrote:
OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes.
I have a plunge router and a router table.
Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table
together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what
is
the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope
it
is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non
existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting
and
screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring to
novice status!

For a plunge router in a router table typically you remove the spring
which makes it easier. When the router is upside-down you're fighting
the spring and the weight of the motor. This is easier on some
routers than others. You would use the depth stop to adjust the
height.

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate
power
and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power switch in.

Never had a router with a momentary switch. I would get an auxiliary
switch like this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401

And find a way to keep the switch on the router pressed in all the
time.


-Kevin

Thanks for the suggestion - I am going to try the spring removal. Same with
the scissor jack (Have to fix the table down for this but like the idea)

Cheers

John

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Giganews" wrote in message
...
OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes.
I have a plunge router and a router table.
Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table
together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what
is the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope
it is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be
non existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting
and screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring
to novice status!

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate
power and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power
switch in.

I worked with an old Bosh plunge router that hung upside down for about 20
years and it was at best a PIA

However you can do a couple of things to make adjustments easier. 1.
Remove the plunge springs that assist you raise the router when it is in
its normal position but as you have found out they make it pretty stiff
when worked upside down. 2. Mount an inexpensive scissor jack under the
router for adjustments.

John Picton wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion - I am going to try the spring removal. Same with
the scissor jack (Have to fix the table down for this but like the idea)

Cheers

John


What router do you have?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

It is a "Performance Power NLH1020R" link to some basic info -
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/US/trend/...ity&id=13 683
This is an own brand for a chain here in the UK called B&Q

It only cost me 20UKP (henc why I said it was cheap enough to warrent some
adaptations)

Cheers

John



"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
John Picton wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion - I am going to try the spring removal. Same
with the scissor jack (Have to fix the table down for this but like the
idea)

Cheers

John


What router do you have?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"John Picton" wrote in
:

It is a "Performance Power NLH1020R" link to some basic info -
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/US/trend/...l.php?record_t
ype=Compatibility&id=13683 This is an own brand for a chain here in
the UK called B&Q

It only cost me 20UKP (henc why I said it was cheap enough to warrent
some adaptations)

Cheers

John


I've got one of these:
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Heavy-Du...eak-HP-Router-
Combo/EN/index.htm

I've never needed to use it in a table (there's large area of cross over
between mobile routers and their table-mounted counterparts), but it has
a T-handle to allow for adjustments from above.

Mine's handled everything I've wanted to throw at it, including
installing collars on the fixed base for pattern routing. Around here,
we have a saying: "You only cry once when you purchase a good tool."

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 20:17:43 +0100, Giganews wrote:

OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes. I have a plunge router
and a router table. Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget,
I put the table together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the
problem... what is the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope
it is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be
non existant.

Unlike many who will respond, I like a plunge router in a table. But
mine has a knob so I don't have to push it up. Makes fine adjustments a
lot easier. Yours may have that as an option. If not, it's not a good
fit for a table.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"John Picton" wrote in message
...
It is a "Performance Power NLH1020R" link to some basic info -
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/US/trend/...ity&id=13 683
This is an own brand for a chain here in the UK called B&Q

I have difficulty imagining a router being useful without a fine depth
adjustment. It's hard to say without more information, but the knob at the
top left in the photo could be that. It could also be a motor speed
adjustment. You would know better than I...

I used a Bosch 1613 plunge router in the table for many years, but the wife
never got the knack for adjusting it, so I replaced it. I didn't find it
difficult to raise or lower at all. Squatting in front of it so I could see
the bit, I held the lock handle with the right hand, cupped the bottom (top)
of the router with my left hand, and braced the elbow on my bent knee.
Flexing the calf raises the router easily without any strain. When it looked
close, I just locked it and twiddled the fine adjustment knob until it was
exactly right.

"John Picton" wrote in message
...
It is a "Performance Power NLH1020R" link to some basic info -
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/US/trend/...ity&id=13 683
This is an own brand for a chain here in the UK called B&Q



Picture looks like it has an adjustable stop for the plunge. Use it.
Problem solved.

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 12:44:42 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


Never had a router with a momentary switch. I would get an auxiliary
switch like this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401

And find a way to keep the switch on the router pressed in all the
time.

Momentary switches are required by law in the EU and in addition they
now (I think) require an interlock button to be pressed first - I
should know as I was using a router only a couple of week ago that was
less than a year old but my memory is numb with age.

Sometimes it seems a PITA and indeed it will be for a router table but
it's much safer than having a locked on switch and an out of control
freehand router

From the way the switch on my Makita compound mitre saw is arranged
with a bolt on complex linkage I suspect that in some jurisdictions
they too can use a lock on switch, in the UK we have to release an
interlock with the reverse of a knuckle before we can squeeze the
trigger and lower the saw. Easy to do in an instant but you still
have to remember to get your other hand out of the way of the blade!

--

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 20:17:43 +0100, "Giganews"
wrote:

OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes.
I have a plunge router and a router table.
Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table
together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what is
the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope it
is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non
existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting and
screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring to
novice status!

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate power
and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power switch in.

You might, depending on the design be able to use one of the Trend
fine height adjusters.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/produc...adjusters.html

Comparability table here

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/trend/...=Compatibility

Someone at news:uk.d-i-y will probably have more experience of your
specific router.

As for keeping the button pressed - use a cable tie - but fit a decent
no volt release switch to it first, these often come with cheap router
tables.


--

On Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:08:59 +0100, Mike wrote
(in article ):

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 20:17:43 +0100, "Giganews"
wrote:

OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes.
I have a plunge router and a router table.
Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table
together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what is
the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope it
is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non
existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting and
screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring to
novice status!

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate power
and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power switch in.

You might, depending on the design be able to use one of the Trend
fine height adjusters.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/produc...adjusters.html

Before I got my Trend routers, I picked up one of the Trend FHA for my Power
Devil router. This transformed it from a royal pita to something quite
usable.
Check ebay. You may get a better deal (or worse, depending,,,) OR phone Dave
Evans at toolsave 0121 525 0222

I just had a look at the pic of your router on the Trend site.

The FHA fits instead of the shiny rod running vertically behind the red knob
on the left of the picure. Basicaslly it is just a tube, threaded at the
bottom to fit over one of the depth--stop screws on the turret, bottom left
of pic. There's a "tap" handle on top of the rod. When you turn it "down"
the threads pull down on to the turret screw and pulls the body of the router
down to meet it.


The plunge springs will fight you for possession of the router body. I f you
can figure out how to remove one or both, it will make adjustment far easier

IME, taking the springs out makes a huge difference. I have a router JUST for
table use with ONE of the two springs taken out. MUCH easier.

HOWEVER configured thus, it's not really safe for "right way up" mode.

Your best bet is to follow the old saying:
"You can never have too many routers"

It might be worth hunting for a used _second_ router for one use or the
other, bearing in mind the FHA will cost umm,, thirteen quid or thereabouts
it might make economic sense to get another cheapie with a built-in FHA and
keep the one you have for freehand use.

I presume you have something like a Powercraft (Aldi) type table, which comes
with a no-volt switch?

If so, centering the router base under the table is a bit Heath Robinson,
with waggly clamps. You'll never get the router out and back in in exactly
the same place. It won't take most half-inch routers' bases. The fence isn't
straight enough to 'joint" with. It's not heavy enough to allow you to push a
router up against its springs without a screw-up FHA. Other than that, it's a
stunning little table that is really ideal for leaving a router in and doing
all those little jobs that such a configuration eats up. Great for through
dovetails with a stottman jig

What it is REALLY good for is teaching you how simple it would be to make
your own router table that overcomes all of the shortcomings it has.
Seriously, if I hadn't started with a similar model I would have missed so
much... and it is always handy for keeping that car-boot bargain router
(that you'll pick up eventually) in with a round-over bit for.. well,
everything, really.

A big spring clamp worked as a switch holder on the Power Devil. I'm not sure
what'd be best for yours.
Cable ties are also useful. I use Duct tape on the Trend. As has been said,
all new European routers have, by law, to have switches that make them
impossible to operate safely in a router table. Older designs such as the Elu
and DeWalt clones of the Elu casing/casting arrangement are exempt. If you
think this is a pain, just wait till you want to use a dado head on a saw
table...

Oh.. a 5mm threaded rod witll probably fit the turret, and if you locknut it
in place (on the turret, instead of one of the existing screws) , you can
then jam/epoxy a 5mm nut in the end of a piece of pipe and wind THAT down
onto a big washer over the rod and above the body casting.
You'll need to make some sort of handwheel or tap handle arrangement for it,
but if you want cheap, that might be the way to go.

Bored Borg wrote:
On Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:08:59 +0100, Mike wrote
(in article ):

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 20:17:43 +0100, "Giganews"
wrote:

OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes.
I have a plunge router and a router table.
Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table
together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what is
the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there
appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope it
is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non
existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting and
screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring to
novice status!

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate power
and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power switch in.
You might, depending on the design be able to use one of the Trend
fine height adjusters.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/produc...adjusters.html

Before I got my Trend routers, I picked up one of the Trend FHA for my Power
Devil router. This transformed it from a royal pita to something quite
usable.
Check ebay. You may get a better deal (or worse, depending,,,) OR phone Dave
Evans at toolsave 0121 525 0222

I just had a look at the pic of your router on the Trend site.

The FHA fits instead of the shiny rod running vertically behind the red knob
on the left of the picure. Basicaslly it is just a tube, threaded at the
bottom to fit over one of the depth--stop screws on the turret, bottom left
of pic. There's a "tap" handle on top of the rod. When you turn it "down"
the threads pull down on to the turret screw and pulls the body of the router
down to meet it.


The plunge springs will fight you for possession of the router body. I f you
can figure out how to remove one or both, it will make adjustment far easier

IME, taking the springs out makes a huge difference. I have a router JUST for
table use with ONE of the two springs taken out. MUCH easier.

HOWEVER configured thus, it's not really safe for "right way up" mode.

Your best bet is to follow the old saying:
"You can never have too many routers"

It might be worth hunting for a used _second_ router for one use or the
other, bearing in mind the FHA will cost umm,, thirteen quid or thereabouts
it might make economic sense to get another cheapie with a built-in FHA and
keep the one you have for freehand use.

I presume you have something like a Powercraft (Aldi) type table, which comes
with a no-volt switch?

If so, centering the router base under the table is a bit Heath Robinson,
with waggly clamps. You'll never get the router out and back in in exactly
the same place. It won't take most half-inch routers' bases. The fence isn't
straight enough to 'joint" with. It's not heavy enough to allow you to push a
router up against its springs without a screw-up FHA. Other than that, it's a
stunning little table that is really ideal for leaving a router in and doing
all those little jobs that such a configuration eats up. Great for through
dovetails with a stottman jig

What it is REALLY good for is teaching you how simple it would be to make
your own router table that overcomes all of the shortcomings it has.
Seriously, if I hadn't started with a similar model I would have missed so
much... and it is always handy for keeping that car-boot bargain router
(that you'll pick up eventually) in with a round-over bit for.. well,
everything, really.

A big spring clamp worked as a switch holder on the Power Devil. I'm not sure
what'd be best for yours.
Cable ties are also useful. I use Duct tape on the Trend. As has been said,
all new European routers have, by law, to have switches that make them
impossible to operate safely in a router table. Older designs such as the Elu
and DeWalt clones of the Elu casing/casting arrangement are exempt. If you
think this is a pain, just wait till you want to use a dado head on a saw
table...

Oh.. a 5mm threaded rod witll probably fit the turret, and if you locknut it
in place (on the turret, instead of one of the existing screws) , you can
then jam/epoxy a 5mm nut in the end of a piece of pipe and wind THAT down
onto a big washer over the rod and above the body casting.
You'll need to make some sort of handwheel or tap handle arrangement for it,
but if you want cheap, that might be the way to go.


Sorry for the delay in replying - there was so much info in there I need
to take it in before a considered reply. At first glance the idea of the
trend FHA that you mention sounds interesting. Did you mean that Dave at
toolsave would be able to provide this, or perhaps a router or advice?

I will have to investigate if the kit is compatible.

I have also been thinking of a second router (and yes you are absolutly
correct my table is an ALDI powercraft one).

I am off to read the rest of your message - will report back soon.

Thanks so much for the detail in your response.

Kind regards

John

On Tue, 21 Apr 2009 20:42:50 +0100, John Picton wrote
(in article ) :

Sorry for the delay in replying - there was so much info in there I need
to take it in before a considered reply. At first glance the idea of the
trend FHA that you mention sounds interesting. Did you mean that Dave at
toolsave would be able to provide this, or perhaps a router or advice?

I will have to investigate if the kit is compatible.

Toolsave is really a discount warehouse with a bit of showroom "display"
material rather than a "test drive" type shop, but I've found them cheaper
than anywhere else - by about the cost of the VAT - or, put another way, it's
tantamount to free postage. Get the product codes off the Trend site. If they
haven't got it in stock, it's normally next working day.
They also do most U,K, available brands - DeWalt, Festool, Fein, Milwaukee
etc.

I think the best thing to do would be to rig up what you've got so it's
usable - i.e. add a FHA - and then use it for a while and see what YOU think
the shortcomings are. If you have a similar experience to me you'll probably
find that you want the Oomph, adjustability and stability of a 1/2"" router
(which won't fit your table) I went for the Trend T9, now obsolete but
identical to the Fein 1800 (?) and the Metabo something-or-other is also
identical but has a dial gauge built in (wow!!) I'll certainly buy Trend
again but the Triton offers a lot of bang for the buck, assuming you want to
move up past the DIY B&Q types. The bigger better models don't scream anyhing
like as nastily as the smaller, cheaper 'uns.


Meanwhile,
FFA Concept Zinced Steel Threaded Rod (L)1000mm x (Dia)5mm
EAN: 3232630218358
Only £1.66

from B&Q.

I'm not 100% certain you turret screws are 5mm, but the Trend FHA that fits
the Trend T5, Power Devil etc. _is_ 5mm. Assuming that yours is, then all
you need is a 5inch-ish bit off tube to go over the rod, a few nut....




One thing you need to be aware of that probably hasn't been obvious...
Historically, routers developed on both sides of the pond at the same time
but where as the rebel colonials developed and near-perfected the fixed-base
configuration, in Europe - and Britain - the effort largely went into the
plunger type. This _may_ explain the partisan championing of one type or the
other. Exceptions prove the rule, of course. Bosch do a swappable base thing.
I'm sure there are home-grown USA plunger routers, but we tend not to see 'em
over here because of the weird rebel colonial voltage they insist on using.
It's a shame 'cos stuff like the Porter-Cable are fabulous pieces of kit..
anyway, my take on it is that plunger types are no worse than fixed for
router table work but if you are going to buy a router lift, then you're
duplicating the mechanism if you use a plunger, so in that case a fixed-base
motor has less scope for Fuquarps.

Buy a Trend depth gauge - the horseshoe shaped thing with the scale that
slides up the middle. About 7 quid. I promise you'll not regret it.

Read everything you can on router table construction

Use sunscreen... sorry, ear protectors. Really.