I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

For the small distances, dividers set to approximate measurement w/
refinement will nail the distance in only a couple of tries.

For longer measurements like several feet run on railings, I typically
will do the same methodology but fix a midpoint or two and do the actual
division between them. There's no hope of anybody picking out being off
by a hair on the distance between the middle baluster and each end in a
10-ft run that way, for example.

--

mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

Do you want equal spacing between centers, or equal "whitespace" between
outside edges?

If the first, then measure center-to-center, divide by the number of
gaps, and mark the centers.

If the second, measure inside-edge-to-inside-edge, subtract the combined
width of all the ballusters/dividers, then divide by how many gaps there
will be. When marking, you would then mark the gap, then the width of
the balluster/divider, then the gap...

If your ballusters/dividers are all the same size, you can simplify the
layout by taking the calculated gap and adding half the width of the
balluster/divider. Marking multiples of this size will give you the
centers of the ballusters/dividers.

Chris

On Apr 20, 2:33*pm, dpb wrote:
mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

For the small distances, dividers set to approximate measurement w/
refinement will nail the distance in only a couple of tries.

For longer measurements like several feet run on railings, I typically
will do the same methodology but fix a midpoint or two and do the actual
division between them. *There's no hope of anybody picking out being off
by a hair on the distance between the middle baluster and each end in a
10-ft run that way, for example.

--

That method won't give you the right spacing at each end will it?

mark wrote:
On Apr 20, 2:33 pm, dpb wrote:
mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help
For the small distances, dividers set to approximate measurement w/
refinement will nail the distance in only a couple of tries.

For longer measurements like several feet run on railings, I typically
will do the same methodology but fix a midpoint or two and do the actual
division between them. There's no hope of anybody picking out being off
by a hair on the distance between the middle baluster and each end in a
10-ft run that way, for example.

--

That method won't give you the right spacing at each end will it?

Of course -- it gives you the same measurement at however many number of
spacings you choose. If you choose the intermediate-fixed-point method
the only requirement is to make the number of intermediates chosen an
even divisor of the total number of increments wanted so those points
are at the proper position. Then if they're off by 1/32" which is
pretty easy to hit, that minor amount when split over the distance is
indetectible.

--

dpb wrote:
mark wrote:
On Apr 20, 2:33 pm, dpb wrote:
mark wrote:

For the small distances, dividers set to approximate measurement w/
refinement will nail the distance in only a couple of tries.

That method won't give you the right spacing at each end will it?

Of course -- it gives you the same measurement at however many number of
spacings you choose.

This method gives equal center-to-center distances. If your
ballusters/dividers are not equal width, this method will give unequal
spaces between the edges.

Chris

"mark" wrote in message
...
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help


You have to remember the width of the balusters if you want equal distances
between each baluster.

If your face frame has a 48" opening and you want to put 3 equal width
drawers in that space, and the face frame dividers are 2" wide, take 48"
subtract 2x2" for the face frame dividers and divide the result by 3.

48"- 4" = 44" , 44" / 3 = 14.67" Spacing between each divider.

"dpb" wrote in message ...
mark wrote:

That method won't give you the right spacing at each end will it?

Of course -- it gives you the same measurement at however many number of
spacings you choose. If you choose the intermediate-fixed-point method
the only requirement is to make the number of intermediates chosen an even
divisor of the total number of increments wanted so those points are at
the proper position. Then if they're off by 1/32" which is pretty easy
to hit, that minor amount when split over the distance is indetectible.

--

I believe with your method you will end up with narrower distances on left
and right side outer spaces. You have to subtract the combined width of
all balusters from the total opening and divide that result by the number of
desired spaces or the number of balusters + 1.

I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg

I have one of these in my shop:

http://www.m-powertools.com/products...nt-2-point.htm

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Morris Dovey wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg


I have one of these in my shop:

http://www.m-powertools.com/products...nt-2-point.htm


That's it! Thanks, Mo (can I call you, Mo?) :-)

Except, his was bigger and longer. [insert "that's what she said," here]


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Morris Dovey wrote:
The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg

http://www.m-powertools.com/products...nt-2-point.htm


BTW, what are these called?
The expanding "X" geometric concept?

I saw a name somewhere and can't think of it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Subject

There is a straight forward graphical solution.

1) Draw a line at an angle, say 30 degrees to the intended line, that
has been divided into the number of spaces req'd. (A)

2) Draw a line from the end of the line to be divided (B) to the end
of the line that has been drawn at an angle (C).

3) Draw lines parallel to B-C that intersect the division points along
A-C. These lines will equally divide A-B

Lew

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg



BUT what you are talking about will only provide equal spacing between
"points". If you mount your balusters at those points you will have
narrower spaces on the out sides of the first and last baluster.

The divider does not take into consideration the width of the
objects/balusters.

Leon wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message ...
mark wrote:

That method won't give you the right spacing at each end will it?
Of course -- it gives you the same measurement at however many number of
spacings you choose. If you choose the intermediate-fixed-point method
the only requirement is to make the number of intermediates chosen an even
divisor of the total number of increments wanted so those points are at
the proper position. Then if they're off by 1/32" which is pretty easy
to hit, that minor amount when split over the distance is indetectible.

--

I believe with your method you will end up with narrower distances on left
and right side outer spaces. You have to subtract the combined width of
all balusters from the total opening and divide that result by the number of
desired spaces or the number of balusters + 1.

No, it ends up w/ equal centerlines which is what OP asked for.

--

Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg


BUT what you are talking about will only provide equal spacing between
"points". If you mount your balusters at those points you will have
narrower spaces on the out sides of the first and last baluster.

The divider does not take into consideration the width of the
objects/balusters.


It would be very easy to adjust the starting and stopping points.

You would hold each end further apart, at a spot equal to half a baluster.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"dpb" wrote in message ...
Leon wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message ...
mark wrote:

That method won't give you the right spacing at each end will it?
Of course -- it gives you the same measurement at however many number of
spacings you choose. If you choose the intermediate-fixed-point method
the only requirement is to make the number of intermediates chosen an
even divisor of the total number of increments wanted so those points
are at the proper position. Then if they're off by 1/32" which is
pretty easy to hit, that minor amount when split over the distance is
indetectible.

--

I believe with your method you will end up with narrower distances on
left and right side outer spaces. You have to subtract the combined
width of all balusters from the total opening and divide that result by
the number of desired spaces or the number of balusters + 1.

No, it ends up w/ equal centerlines which is what OP asked for.

Actually if you read again what he wants he indicates,

I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help


He details that he wants equal spacing between dividing objects.
If he wants equal spacing between drawers and or balusters you have to take
into consideration the total width of all of the objects that will divide.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg


BUT what you are talking about will only provide equal spacing between
"points". If you mount your balusters at those points you will have
narrower spaces on the out sides of the first and last baluster.

The divider does not take into consideration the width of the
objects/balusters.

It would be very easy to adjust the starting and stopping points.

You would hold each end further apart, at a spot equal to half a baluster.

But you left that out, he wanted to center objects in a given width.

Leon wrote:
....
He details that he wants equal spacing between dividing objects.
If he wants equal spacing between drawers and or balusters you have to take
into consideration the total width of all of the objects that will divide.


But if you measure from the inside of the corner posts, equal
centerlines does the same thing w/o the extra measurements. You do, of
course, have to count the proper number of spaces or objects, yes.

--

Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg

BUT what you are talking about will only provide equal spacing between
"points". If you mount your balusters at those points you will have
narrower spaces on the out sides of the first and last baluster.

The divider does not take into consideration the width of the
objects/balusters.
It would be very easy to adjust the starting and stopping points.

You would hold each end further apart, at a spot equal to half a baluster.

But you left that out, he wanted to center objects in a given width.


I didn't realize he wanted someone to come over and do it for him. :-)

I though something like that pantograph (that's the word I was looking
for) devise would take the math out of the process.

Don't you agree that anyone with a moderate amount of experience could
use it to do similar tasks to what the OP was asking?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing:
http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg


BUT what you are talking about will only provide equal spacing between
"points". If you mount your balusters at those points you will have
narrower spaces on the out sides of the first and last baluster.

The divider does not take into consideration the width of the
objects/balusters.

It would be very easy to adjust the starting and stopping points.

You would hold each end further apart, at a spot equal to half a baluster.


Well actually that is incorrect also. if I understand what you are saying.

Given a 40" wide area that you want to divide with 2" wide spacers so that
you have 3 equal length spaces between the spacer, if you divide 40" by 3
you end up with equally divided points every 13.34 inches. If you center
the dividers on the 2 equally spaced marks and then move the spacers
further apart half their width or 1", as I believe you are indicating, the
outer spaces end up being narrower than the center. In this example 2"
narrower.

"dpb" wrote in message ...
Leon wrote:
...
He details that he wants equal spacing between dividing objects.
If he wants equal spacing between drawers and or balusters you have to
take into consideration the total width of all of the objects that will
divide.


But if you measure from the inside of the corner posts, equal centerlines
does the same thing w/o the extra measurements. You do, of course, have
to count the proper number of spaces or objects, yes.

--

No, dividing the "between the posts" area does not result in objects with
equal spacing on both sides.

Draw it on paper and see what you get. The outer spaces will be narrower.

If the objects had no width your method would work.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...


I didn't realize he wanted someone to come over and do it for him. :-)

I though something like that pantograph (that's the word I was looking
for) devise would take the math out of the process.

Don't you agree that anyone with a moderate amount of experience could
use it to do similar tasks to what the OP was asking?


No, I do not agree. sorry, I have run across this time and time again
using drawing programs where you can tell the CAD program to equally divide
a line and then center dividers with width greater than "zero" on those
points. You get unequal spacing on the outer spaces.

I find the easiest way is to multiply the number of dividers by their width
and subtract that amount from the given area that they should be equally
space in. then divide that number by the number of dividers +1.

And moving the outer points 1/2' the width of the spacer exaggerates the
error.

Somebody wrote:

BUT what you are talking about will only provide equal spacing
between "points". If you mount your balusters at those points you
will have narrower spaces on the out sides of the first and last
baluster.

The first and last baluster space will be in error by 1/2 ballluster
thickness if you attempt to layout centerlines.

Lew

On Apr 20, 1:04*pm, mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

http://www.virginiarailingandgates.c...icketspace.asp

R

On 2009-04-20, Morris Dovey wrote:

I have one of these in my shop:

http://www.m-powertools.com/products...nt-2-point.htm

Cool tool! But, it's just as easy and costs nothing to use an old drafting
trick. Get a measuring device, scale, yardstick, tape, etc. Find x number
of equal units of measure, inch, foot, centimeter, etc, and count off the
number of divisions you need. The total number of units of measure must
exceed the right angle distance of the space you are dividing.

For example, let say you want to divide 10" wide distance into 12 equal
measurments. Easy. Take a 12" ruler and lay it from one side of the 10"
distance to the other side AT AN ANGLE so the 12" distance lays across the
10" without extending beyond being short of the 10" right angle distance.
Mark off the 12 one inch increments at one point and do it again at another
point. Connect the marks with a straight edge. Voila! A 10" board, tile,
whatever, divided into 12 equal lines.

nb

In article , dpb wrote:
Leon wrote:
....
He details that he wants equal spacing between dividing objects.
If he wants equal spacing between drawers and or balusters you have to take
into consideration the total width of all of the objects that will divide.


But if you measure from the inside of the corner posts, equal
centerlines does the same thing w/o the extra measurements.

For balusters (which presumably are of a uniform width), yes. For drawers in a
case, which frequently are different heights, no.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Somebody wrote:

BUT what you are talking about will only provide equal spacing between
"points". If you mount your balusters at those points you will have
narrower spaces on the out sides of the first and last baluster.

The first and last baluster space will be in error by 1/2 ballluster
thickness if you attempt to layout centerlines.

Lew


Ahhh the voice of experience!

mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

This is a spreadsheet I devised a few years ago to keep from having to
rebuild the wheel every time I layout spindles/slats between legs,
rails, posts, etc when doing A&C/Mission furnitu

http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/SlatCalculation.xls

CAVEAT: It has been posted a few times in the past five years and
manages to start an argument every time. It works _perfectly_ for me and
others who have used it for the purpose for which it was intended.
NOTE:I have no intention engaging in argument of any type regarding the
formula, if it doesn't work for someone, they can either roll their own
by tweaking the formula for their specific purpose, or kiss my ass,
whichever suits the time and place...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 15:23:24 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

No, dividing the "between the posts" area does not result in objects with
equal spacing on both sides.

Draw it on paper and see what you get. The outer spaces will be narrower.

If the objects had no width your method would work.


Correct!

To calculate the distance between centerlines, the width of one
baluster has to be added to the width of the opening before
calculating the spacing. Then, the distance from the edge of the
opening to the centerline of the first baluster is the calculated
centerline spacing minus 1/2 the width of the baluster. That first
measurement is not from centerline to centerline but from edge of
opening to centerline.

Example: 9 1" wide balusters in a 39" opening.

Number of equal spaces = number of balusters + 1 = 10 equal spaces

Distance between the centerline of two adjacent balusters = width of
opening + width of one baluster divided by number of equal spaces
= (39 + 1) / 10 = 40/10 = 4"

Open space between adjacent balusters = distance between centerlines -
width of baluster = 4 - 1 = 3

Distance from edge of opening to centerline of first baluster =
distance between balusters - 1/2 width of baluster = 4 - 1/2 = 3 1/2.

That results in 9 balusters with 4" between centerlines and 3"
openings between balusters and 3" between the end balusters and the
edge of the opening.


Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

"Leon" wrote:

Ahhh the voice of experience!

Naw, just to many years on the design board slinging lead.

Lew

On Apr 20, 6:11*pm, Swingman wrote:
mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

This is a spreadsheet I devised a few years ago to keep from having to
rebuild the wheel every time I layout spindles/slats between legs,
rails, posts, etc when doing A&C/Mission furnitu

http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/SlatCalculation.xls

CAVEAT: It has been posted a few times in the past five years and
manages to start an argument every time. It works _perfectly_ for me and
others who have used it for the purpose for which it was intended.
NOTE:I have no intention engaging in argument of any type regarding the
formula, if it doesn't work for someone, they can either roll their own
by tweaking the formula for their specific purpose, or kiss my ass,
whichever suits the time and place...

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

At least it wasn't done in SU, so it should work.....g,d&r

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 10:04:56 -0700, mark wrote:

I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you divide
a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance putting
ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4 face frame
dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

Measure the distance. Subtract the total width of the balusters. Divide
by the # of balusters + 1. Cut a spacer from scrap to that width.

That's how I did my porch.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Apr 20, 7:01*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 10:04:56 -0700, mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you divide
a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance putting
ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4 face frame
dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

Measure the distance. *Subtract the total width of the balusters. *Divide
by the # of balusters + 1. *Cut a spacer from scrap to that width.

That's how I did my porch.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Works for me, Larry.

Robatoy wrote:


At least it wasn't done in SU, so it should work.....g,d&r

Hmmm ... come to think of it, SU Pro uses spreadsheet formulas for
dynamic component creation.

... stand by.



--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Apr 20, 7:07*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Apr 20, 7:01*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 10:04:56 -0700, mark wrote:
I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you divide
a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance putting
ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4 face frame
dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

Measure the distance. *Subtract the total width of the balusters. *Divide
by the # of balusters + 1. *Cut a spacer from scrap to that width.

That's how I did my porch.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Works for me, Larry.

This is also where metric shines..... and pretty much the only time I
use metric.

On Apr 20, 7:24*pm, Swingman wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
At least it wasn't done in SU, so it should work.....g,d&r

Hmmm ... come to think of it, SU Pro uses spreadsheet formulas for
dynamic component creation.

* ... stand by. *

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Oh noes!! What have I done????

notbob wrote:
http://www.m-powertools.com/products...nt-2-point.htm

Cool tool! But, it's just as easy and costs nothing to use an old drafting
trick. Get a measuring device, scale, yardstick, tape, etc. Find x number
of equal units of measure, inch, foot, centimeter, etc, and count off the
number of divisions you need. The total number of units of measure must
exceed the right angle distance of the space you are dividing.

For example, let say you want to divide 10" wide distance into 12 equal
measurments. Easy. Take a 12" ruler and lay it from one side of the 10"
distance to the other side AT AN ANGLE so the 12" distance lays across the
10" without extending beyond being short of the 10" right angle distance.
Mark off the 12 one inch increments at one point and do it again at another
point. Connect the marks with a straight edge. Voila! A 10" board, tile,
whatever, divided into 12 equal lines.

nb


Yes, old school.
I remember learning that in drafting school and hadn't thought of it
until now.
Thanks!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote:

Ahhh the voice of experience!

Naw, just to many years on the design board slinging lead.

Lew




LOL, well I was going to add mechanical drawing whether on paper or on the
computer. CAD spells this out in a hurry and is easy to fix. Doing it on
a drawing board, you try not to make that mistake a second time.

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 18:01:46 -0500, Larry Blanchard
wrote:

Measure the distance. Subtract the total width of the balusters. Divide
by the # of balusters + 1. Cut a spacer from scrap to that width.

That's how I did my porch.

As I did the railings around my deck, and ...

I think the confusion is coming in because someone brought centerlines
into the discussion. You can do it with centerlines, you just have to
account for the fact that the measurement to the first centerline from
the edge of the opening is NOT a centerline to centerline measurement.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA