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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
I was originally going to blame this on "a friend," but this one is
mine all mine, and I shouldn't hide. I have a Bostitch twin tank air compressor, and over the weekend the drain valves started leaking air. So, I decided that now would be a good time replace those pain in the butt valves with something a little friendlier to use. I tried to remove the worst of the two valves first, but I got the thing so boogered up that it was worthless for anything other than cutting myself on. So I took my Dremel to it and cut it flush, then tried to drill it out, except that my drill bits jump from 3/8" to 1/2", and the valve opening is somewhere in between. So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it. 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged up again? 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up again? I admit that I got hasty, then stubborn, and finally mad, but I'm hoping I can either fix this or get it fixed. It's been a good compressor, and I'm stuck in the middle of a project that I'd like to finish. -Nathan |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Apr 7, 8:59*am, N Hurst wrote:
I was originally going to blame this on "a friend," but this one is mine all mine, and I shouldn't hide. I have a Bostitch twin tank air compressor, and over the weekend the drain valves started leaking air. So, I decided that now would be a good time replace those pain in the butt valves with something a little friendlier to use. I tried to remove the worst of the two valves first, but I got the thing so boogered up that it was worthless for anything other than cutting myself on. So I took my Dremel to it and cut it flush, then tried to drill it out, except that my drill bits jump from 3/8" to 1/2", and the valve opening is somewhere in between. So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it. 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged up again? 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up again? I admit that I got hasty, then stubborn, and finally mad, but I'm hoping I can either fix this or get it fixed. It's been a good compressor, and I'm stuck in the middle of a project that I'd like to finish. -Nathan There is such a beast as an 'Easy-Out'. Look into that. They're available in sets and as single items. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
You've made this pretty difficult. If you don't have a drill
index, I'm sure you don't have easy outs and taps. I suspect that you wouldn't know how to use them if you did (not a pick, just an observation based on your statements) and breaking them off would only make the problem worse. Your best bet would be to find a tool repair shop or machine shop. No idea what they would charge. The best choice would be to go to an outfit that works on compressors, they will be prepared to deal with the issues and the new parts. If you insist on trying: Buy a full drill index. Buy an assortment of easy outs - I prefer the square ones. Buy the correct tap, but be prepared to need to drill out for the next size and the next larger tap. Try the easy out first. Tap it in firmly. Try to unscrew the broken nipple. There are nipple extractors, but I've not ever had much luck with them. If you succeed at this point, you're done other than buying and installing a ball valve or whatever you choose. If it doesn't work (when it doesn't work), drill out the nipple but do not hurt the threads. There will be the old threads themselves hung in the hole that will require cleaning up the threads with the correct tap. Make sure to be VERY careful with the tap, they are very brittle and if you break it off in the hole it is much to hard to drill. Good luck. -- ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) "N Hurst" wrote in message ... I was originally going to blame this on "a friend," but this one is mine all mine, and I shouldn't hide. I have a Bostitch twin tank air compressor, and over the weekend the drain valves started leaking air. So, I decided that now would be a good time replace those pain in the butt valves with something a little friendlier to use. I tried to remove the worst of the two valves first, but I got the thing so boogered up that it was worthless for anything other than cutting myself on. So I took my Dremel to it and cut it flush, then tried to drill it out, except that my drill bits jump from 3/8" to 1/2", and the valve opening is somewhere in between. So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it. 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged up again? 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up again? I admit that I got hasty, then stubborn, and finally mad, but I'm hoping I can either fix this or get it fixed. It's been a good compressor, and I'm stuck in the middle of a project that I'd like to finish. -Nathan |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole
with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it. 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged up again? I guessing the plug is a tapered pipe thread. How much metal is left between the hole you drilled and the threads? Do you have a small triangular file that will fit in the hole well enough for you to cut a v-groove in several places? Or maybe a mini hacksaw blade? Or you could take a piece of a regular hacksaw blade and grind the back down until it fits in your hole. If you cut or file a pair of parallel grooves in the hole on one side (being careful not to go into the tank threads--they're closer to your drilled hole the deeper in you go), you may be able to use a cold chisel or an old screwdriver to pound a slice of the brass plug into the 3/8 hole. That will usually remove enough stress on the sides that you can turn it out. You might need to collapse the rest in some after you remove a section. At least brass cuts easily. Even if you can't cut deep enough to get the plug to collapse, you might still be able to cut a notch on both sides of your hole deep enough to get a big screwdriver to jam in there, and then turn the screwdriver blade with a pair of vicegrips. 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up again? Apply a good penetrating oil, like PB-Blaster, not WD40. Let it soak in for a while. If the threads are sealed with some sort of pipe compound, this probably won't make a lot of difference. You could also try heating it up a little with a paint stripping gun, it might soften things up enough to release whatever putty or thread sealer they used. Take your dremel and cut off just the valve handle and stem, but not the rest of the valve. You should now be able to get a good fitting socket on the rest of the valve and apply enough force to remove it (otherwise, the valve style limits you to using either an open end wrench or some form of pliers, which as you found will only mangle things). It will be worth your time to buy a six-point socket that size if you don't already have one--the brass will be soft enough that a 12-point socket could still mangle everything up on you. None of this is guarateed to work, it just improves your odds. If you still end up having to drill things out, try using left-hand drill bits. Harbor Freight has them. That way, if the drill catches, it will at least be applying force in the direction you want it to go (though I think my set only goes up to 1/4"). --Glenn Lyford |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
Glenn Lyford writes:
So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it. 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged up again? How about a nipple extractor? http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Cat/Pi...ctors/655/List scott |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message ... Glenn Lyford writes: So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it. 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged up again? How about a nipple extractor? http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Cat/Pi...ctors/655/List ======== I have seen these before and even used them a couple of times. But I have never heard them referred to as a nipple extractor. I instinctively moved my hands to a protective position over my chest when I read it. Looking at the link, I was relieved that it was referring to the pipe type of nipple, not the organic kind. Whew!! |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message ... Glenn Lyford writes: So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it. 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged up again? How about a nipple extractor? http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Cat/Pi...ctors/655/List scott Nipple extractor?? Just unhook her bra. Sorry, couldn't resist. Max |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable
(crescent) wrench. "Glenn Lyford" wrote in message ... I guessing the plug is a tapered pipe thread. How much metal is left between the hole you drilled and the threads? Do you have a small triangular file that will fit in the hole well enough for you to cut a v-groove in several places? Or maybe a mini hacksaw blade? Or you could take a piece of a regular hacksaw blade and grind the back down until it fits in your hole. If you cut or file a pair of parallel grooves in the hole on one side (being careful not to go into the tank threads--they're closer to your drilled hole the deeper in you go), you may be able to use a cold chisel or an old screwdriver to pound a slice of the brass plug into the 3/8 hole. That will usually remove enough stress on the sides that you can turn it out. You might need to collapse the rest in some after you remove a section. At least brass cuts easily. Even if you can't cut deep enough to get the plug to collapse, you might still be able to cut a notch on both sides of your hole deep enough to get a big screwdriver to jam in there, and then turn the screwdriver blade with a pair of vicegrips. 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up again? Apply a good penetrating oil, like PB-Blaster, not WD40. Let it soak in for a while. If the threads are sealed with some sort of pipe compound, this probably won't make a lot of difference. You could also try heating it up a little with a paint stripping gun, it might soften things up enough to release whatever putty or thread sealer they used. Take your dremel and cut off just the valve handle and stem, but not the rest of the valve. You should now be able to get a good fitting socket on the rest of the valve and apply enough force to remove it (otherwise, the valve style limits you to using either an open end wrench or some form of pliers, which as you found will only mangle things). It will be worth your time to buy a six-point socket that size if you don't already have one--the brass will be soft enough that a 12-point socket could still mangle everything up on you. None of this is guarateed to work, it just improves your odds. If you still end up having to drill things out, try using left-hand drill bits. Harbor Freight has them. That way, if the drill catches, it will at least be applying force in the direction you want it to go (though I think my set only goes up to 1/4"). --Glenn Lyford |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"CW" wrote: Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable (crescent) wrench. Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster". Lew |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Apr 7, 3:07*pm, Glenn Lyford wrote:
So I stopped doing that, and now I'm left with a brass-plugged hole with a 3/8" hole in the middle of it. 1) How can I recover from my screwup and get the drain valve plugged up again? I guessing the plug is a tapered pipe thread. *How much metal is left between the hole you drilled and the threads? Do you have a small triangular file that will fit in the hole well enough for you to cut a v-groove in several places? *Or maybe a mini hacksaw blade? *Or you could take a piece of a regular hacksaw blade and grind the back down until it fits in your hole. * If you cut or file a pair of parallel grooves in the hole on one side (being careful not to go into the tank threads--they're closer to your drilled hole the deeper in you go), you may be able to use a cold chisel or an old screwdriver to pound a slice of the brass plug into the 3/8 hole. That will usually remove enough stress on the sides that you can turn it out. *You might need to collapse the rest in some after you remove a section. *At least brass cuts easily. *Even if you can't cut deep enough to get the plug to collapse, you might still be able to cut a notch on both sides of your hole deep enough to get a big screwdriver to jam in there, and then turn the screwdriver blade with a pair of vicegrips. 2) How can I remove the other valve without completely screwing up again? Apply a good penetrating oil, like PB-Blaster, not WD40. *Let it soak in for a while. *If the threads are sealed with some sort of pipe compound, this probably won't make a lot of difference. *You could also try heating it up a little with a paint stripping gun, it might soften things up enough to release whatever putty or thread sealer they used. Take your dremel and cut off just the valve handle and stem, but not the rest of the valve. *You should now be able to get a good fitting socket on the rest of the valve and apply enough force to remove it (otherwise, the valve style limits you to using either an open end wrench or some form of pliers, which as you found will only mangle things). It will be worth your time to buy a six-point socket that size if you don't already have one--the brass will be soft enough that a 12-point socket could still mangle everything up on you. *None of this is guarateed to work, it just improves your odds. If you still end up having to drill things out, try using left-hand drill bits. *Harbor Freight has them. *That way, if the drill catches, it will at least be applying force in the direction you want it to go (though I think my set only goes up to 1/4"). * --Glenn Lyford I have somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4" of metal, I think, between the new drain hole and the existing threads. I have a customer service ticket in with Bostitch to see if they can inform me as to how those things are attached. If I can get that information, and get the other one off, I'll be able to use that to work on the mangled one. Thank you for your excellent post. As to the uh, nipple extractor, is there a recommended one for this kind of thing? Is the screw in one better than the square one? Good lord, I can only imagine the innuendo potential when you're talking about pound in, screw in, and ridgid pipe extractors. Yeesh. :-) Thanks yall. -Nathan |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:tASCl.2288$Q52.1211
@nwrddc02.gnilink.net: "CW" wrote: Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable (crescent) wrench. Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster". Lew My dad called them "redneck speed wrenches" |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
Hammer Hands wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:tASCl.2288$Q52.1211 @nwrddc02.gnilink.net: "CW" wrote: Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable (crescent) wrench. Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster". Lew My dad called them "redneck speed wrenches" My dad called them "metric crescent wrenches". -- Free bad advice available here. To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Wed, 8 Apr 2009 00:54:05 +0100, Lee Michaels wrote
(in article ): I have seen these before and even used them a couple of times. But I have never heard them referred to as a nipple extractor. I instinctively moved my hands to a protective position over my chest when I read it. Looking at the link, I was relieved that it was referring to the pipe type of nipple, not the organic kind. Whew!! How are you around ball paen hammers? |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"Steve Turner" wrote in message ... Hammer Hands wrote: "Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:tASCl.2288$Q52.1211 @nwrddc02.gnilink.net: "CW" wrote: Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable (crescent) wrench. Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster". Lew My dad called them "redneck speed wrenches" My dad called them "metric crescent wrenches". -- roundoff wrenches ha ha Free bad advice available here. To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Apr 9, 12:14*pm, Hammer Hands wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:tASCl.2288$Q52.1211 @nwrddc02.gnilink.net: "CW" wrote: Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable (crescent) wrench. Or as my Dad called them, "Knuckle Buster". Lew My dad called them "redneck speed wrenches" When I was a kid, my Grandad worked for "Crescent Tool" in Jamestown, NY. We had at least 2 of every size cresacent wrench, including a 30"er. Of course, this was back when most things were srtill made farm style with square head nuts & bolts. Nahmie |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"CW" wrote in message m... Good advice here but I would add one thing. NEVER use an adjustable (crescent) wrench. Actually a Crescent wrench does accomplish one task remarkably well, absolutely not what it was intended for. In the tire business you often see steel wheels with bent rims. I am talking the part of the rim that the wheel weight clips on to. Hitting a curb will often bend this part of the wheel/rim and it can easily be straightened out if you adjust the wrench up snug on to the bend and then simply bend the rim back out. Works like a charm. Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
Leon wrote:
Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels. And bicycle wheels... |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"B A R R Y" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels. And bicycle wheels... There you go! |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
When I was a kid, my Grandad worked for "Crescent Tool" in Jamestown,
NY. We had at least 2 of every size cresacent wrench, including a 30"er. Of course, this was back when most things were srtill made farm style with square head nuts & bolts. SFWIW, Along the way I aquired a 10" Cresent wrench that is built "hell for stout" as the old German used to say. It must weigh at least twice what the current versions weigh. Lew |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"Bored Borg" wrote in message .com... On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:52:06 +0100, B A R R Y wrote (in article ): Leon wrote: Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels. And bicycle wheels... and aluminiminimum saucepan lids what SWMBO has lost her temper with. How's your head?? BG P D Q |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:52:06 +0100, B A R R Y wrote
(in article ): Leon wrote: Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels. And bicycle wheels... and aluminiminimum saucepan lids what SWMBO has lost her temper with. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Apr 10, 8:05*pm, "PDQ" wrote:
"Bored Borg" wrote in straweb.com... On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:52:06 +0100, B A R R Y wrote (in article ): Leon wrote: Note, this only works well on standard steel wheels. And bicycle wheels... and aluminiminimum saucepan lids what SWMBO has lost her temper with. How's your head?? *BG P D Q No progress to speak of with regards to the busted compressor. I got one of the screw-in type extractors, but haven't had the time to try it out yet. I'm writing in though to post a little bit of a gloat! I was at a local pharmacy to get a drink where I noticed a small air compressor looking like it might be in the queue for the dumpster, laying on its side behind the counter. I asked about it, and they said that it was broken and they had replaced it, but that they hadn't gotten directions from above about what to do with the old one. I told them that I had room in my car for it, if they wanted to avoid the task of carrying it to the dumpster. They took my number and asked me to wait for a call or come back later, so they could have a chance to talk to their management. So I went back on Friday and came home with a Gast D300X air compressor. It was built in 1999, but hey, I'm not complaining. Information he http://www.gastmfg.com/pdf/tankunits...n-tanksyst.pdf I can't find any vendors that sell this model online, but Grainger has just the compressor part for over $400, so I think I did OK. :-) Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on something as basic as running nail guns. -Nathan |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:26:01 -0700 (PDT), nhurst
wrote: Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on something as basic as running nail guns. With a 2gal tank and 1.5 CFM or less at 30 to 50 psi, I'm afraid you'd have a pretty low duty cycle running a conventional spray gun. Maybe OK for small batch spraying. Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
nhurst wrote:
Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on something as basic as running nail guns. Given the small size, you MIGHT be able to run a sprayer for model airplanes, otherwise, it's probably nail gun duty time. Lew Lew |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
Tom Veatch wrote:
On Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:26:01 -0700 (PDT), nhurst wrote: Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on something as basic as running nail guns. With a 2gal tank and 1.5 CFM or less at 30 to 50 psi, I'm afraid you'd have a pretty low duty cycle running a conventional spray gun. Maybe OK for small batch spraying. Sounds about perfect for an airbrush though. |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Apr 12, 12:02*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
nhurst wrote: Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on something as basic as running nail guns. Given the small size, you MIGHT be able to run a sprayer for model airplanes, otherwise, it's probably nail gun duty time. Lew Lew Some of the documentation claims that the motor is rated for continuous duty. Does that mean I could add another, larger tank and get some use out of it? -Nathan |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
"nhurst" wrote:
Some of the documentation claims that the motor is rated for continuous duty. Does that mean I could add another, larger tank and get some use out of it? Not really. All you would accomplish is that it would take longer to come up to system pressure and as long as you consumed less than you generated, you could operate continuously. If you consume more than you generate, you will be able to operate longer before having to stop and wait to catch up, but you still have to wait. There ain't no free lunch. If it were mine, I'd plug it in, if it worked, great. If it doesn't, how fast can you get to the dumpster? Lew |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Fixing Air Compressor Screwup
On Apr 12, 12:52*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"nhurst" wrote: Some of the documentation claims that the motor is rated for continuous duty. Does that mean I could add another, larger tank and get some use out of it? Not really. All you would accomplish is that it would take longer to come up to system pressure and as long as you consumed less than you generated, you could operate continuously. If you consume more than you generate, you will be able to operate longer before having to stop and wait to catch up, but you still have to wait. There ain't no free lunch. If it were mine, I'd plug it in, if it worked, great. If it doesn't, how fast can you get to the dumpster? Lew Oh it works, I was just pondering what future use it might have in my shop. I realized last night that one good use for it might be to some of those vacuum clamps. I bet it would work really well for that. Otherwise, I'll stick it out at the project house on the old family property so we don't have to lug the big one out there when we get a round toit. :-) -Nathan |
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