I have a slab of maple about 2 inches thick with an irregular shape that
would be thr right size for an end table. The way this was cut the bark is
on all the edges and I would like to keep it there. I will need to sand the
upper and lower surfaces to get them smooth enough for a table and am
concerned that the sanding action may break the bark free of the edge. It is
already quite loose in some places

Any suggestions on how to glue or otherwise keep the bark attached?

TIA

Russ

On Apr 6, 6:00 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have a slab of maple about 2 inches thick with an irregular shape that
would be thr right size for an end table. The way this was cut the bark is
on all the edges and I would like to keep it there. I will need to sand the
upper and lower surfaces to get them smooth enough for a table and am
concerned that the sanding action may break the bark free of the edge. It is
already quite loose in some places

Any suggestions on how to glue or otherwise keep the bark attached?

TIA

Russ

Maybe put the table in an inacccessible place? Sorry, but I think
you've got a difficult goal here. Maybe multiple sprays of a clear
laquer or poly or shellac, but again, sorry, it seems a tough row to
hoe. You may have to accept the inevitable. You'll have bark on the
carpet. Tom

"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
I have a slab of maple about 2 inches thick with an irregular shape that
would be thr right size for an end table. The way this was cut the bark is
on all the edges and I would like to keep it there. I will need to sand the
upper and lower surfaces to get them smooth enough for a table and am
concerned that the sanding action may break the bark free of the edge. It
is already quite loose in some places

Any suggestions on how to glue or otherwise keep the bark attached?

Take a tip from the turners and soak it with CA glue... turners often do
that with natural edge bowls to keep the bark on.

John

"tom" wrote in message
...
On Apr 6, 6:00 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have a slab of maple about 2 inches thick with an irregular shape that
would be thr right size for an end table. The way this was cut the bark
is
on all the edges and I would like to keep it there. I will need to sand
the
upper and lower surfaces to get them smooth enough for a table and am
concerned that the sanding action may break the bark free of the edge. It
is
already quite loose in some places

Any suggestions on how to glue or otherwise keep the bark attached?

TIA

Russ

Maybe put the table in an inacccessible place? Sorry, but I think
you've got a difficult goal here. Maybe multiple sprays of a clear
laquer or poly or shellac, but again, sorry, it seems a tough row to
hoe. You may have to accept the inevitable. You'll have bark on the
carpet. Tom

I have no idea how they do it, but people accomplish this everyday. Look at
any Adirondack furniture store and you'll find stuff like this by the dozen.
The OP asks a good question, and I don't have an answer for it, but the
suggestion that it can't be done is wrong. You may be right about the
multiple sprays of an agent that bonds the bark. I don't know but it seems
like a good idea. I just wouldn't suggest he needs to accept the
inevitable.

--

-Mike-

On Apr 6, 7:58 pm, "Mike Marlow" wrote:
"tom" wrote in message

...



On Apr 6, 6:00 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have a slab of maple about 2 inches thick with an irregular shape that
would be thr right size for an end table. The way this was cut the bark
is
on all the edges and I would like to keep it there. I will need to sand
the
upper and lower surfaces to get them smooth enough for a table and am
concerned that the sanding action may break the bark free of the edge. It
is
already quite loose in some places

Any suggestions on how to glue or otherwise keep the bark attached?

TIA

Russ

Maybe put the table in an inacccessible place? Sorry, but I think
you've got a difficult goal here. Maybe multiple sprays of a clear
laquer or poly or shellac, but again, sorry, it seems a tough row to
hoe. You may have to accept the inevitable. You'll have bark on the
carpet. Tom

I have no idea how they do it, but people accomplish this everyday. Look at
any Adirondack furniture store and you'll find stuff like this by the dozen.
The OP asks a good question, and I don't have an answer for it, but the
suggestion that it can't be done is wrong. You may be right about the
multiple sprays of an agent that bonds the bark. I don't know but it seems
like a good idea. I just wouldn't suggest he needs to accept the
inevitable.

--

-Mike-


Well, this will be an end table, subjected to bumps, brush-bys and boo-
boos. I think even the cyanoacrylate soaking may not be able to stand
up to the kids' roughhousing. Of course, I hope the OP can find a way
to happiness, but I believe that until the bark is debraded to a
certain point.... Please don't take this as "it can't be done", but as
"it can be done up to a point". Tom

"tom" wrote in message
...
On Apr 6, 7:58 pm, "Mike Marlow" wrote:
"tom" wrote in message

...



On Apr 6, 6:00 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have a slab of maple about 2 inches thick with an irregular shape
that
would be thr right size for an end table. The way this was cut the
bark
is
on all the edges and I would like to keep it there. I will need to
sand
the
upper and lower surfaces to get them smooth enough for a table and am
concerned that the sanding action may break the bark free of the edge.
It
is
already quite loose in some places

Any suggestions on how to glue or otherwise keep the bark attached?

TIA

Russ

Maybe put the table in an inacccessible place? Sorry, but I think
you've got a difficult goal here. Maybe multiple sprays of a clear
laquer or poly or shellac, but again, sorry, it seems a tough row to
hoe. You may have to accept the inevitable. You'll have bark on the
carpet. Tom

I have no idea how they do it, but people accomplish this everyday. Look
at
any Adirondack furniture store and you'll find stuff like this by the
dozen.
The OP asks a good question, and I don't have an answer for it, but the
suggestion that it can't be done is wrong. You may be right about the
multiple sprays of an agent that bonds the bark. I don't know but it
seems
like a good idea. I just wouldn't suggest he needs to accept the
inevitable.

--

-Mike-


Well, this will be an end table, subjected to bumps, brush-bys and boo-
boos. I think even the cyanoacrylate soaking may not be able to stand
up to the kids' roughhousing. Of course, I hope the OP can find a way
to happiness, but I believe that until the bark is debraded to a
certain point.... Please don't take this as "it can't be done", but as
"it can be done up to a point". Tom

It depends when the tree was felled. In spring, during its active growing
season, the bark is loose at the site of the new growth, since this is where
cell division takes place. In late fall, the bark is again firmly attached
to the new sap wood. Hoadley's "Understanding Wood" is a good book if you
have an interest.

On Apr 6, 7:41*pm, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


Take a tip from the turners and soak it with CA glue... turners often do
that with natural edge bowls to keep the bark on.

True. But if it is an end table, he would need about $ 1K of CA to
get it stable!

There is a natural edged furniture guy I used to see from time to
time, and he thinned out poly and put it into something that looked
like a bread pan and rotated the barked area through the poly so it
was heavily soaked when he was doing disks (rounds).

For long ovals (small bar tops and coffee tables cut on a really acute
angle to teh grain) he slathered on the thinned poly with a large
brush till it dripped off, then let it dry 3 - 4 days. Anything that
fell off, he simply glued back on.

Worked for him.

YMMV.

Robert

a couple of silly thoughts he first, take the bark off and finish the
table then put the bark back on with hidden dowels. OR
Believe it or not,I have used JB weld successfully in repairing wood
joints. (30 year old boat restoration) so return the bark and glue or
inject JB or GOOP into the cracks, or cut/drill pilot holes in the bottom
at the matching line and fill with glue.
wrote in message
...
On Apr 6, 7:41 pm, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


Take a tip from the turners and soak it with CA glue... turners often do
that with natural edge bowls to keep the bark on.

True. But if it is an end table, he would need about $ 1K of CA to
get it stable!

There is a natural edged furniture guy I used to see from time to
time, and he thinned out poly and put it into something that looked
like a bread pan and rotated the barked area through the poly so it
was heavily soaked when he was doing disks (rounds).

For long ovals (small bar tops and coffee tables cut on a really acute
angle to teh grain) he slathered on the thinned poly with a large
brush till it dripped off, then let it dry 3 - 4 days. Anything that
fell off, he simply glued back on.

Worked for him.

YMMV.

Robert

wrote in message
...
On Apr 6, 7:41 pm, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


Take a tip from the turners and soak it with CA glue... turners often do
that with natural edge bowls to keep the bark on.

True. But if it is an end table, he would need about $ 1K of CA to
get it stable!

There is a natural edged furniture guy I used to see from time to
time, and he thinned out poly and put it into something that looked
like a bread pan and rotated the barked area through the poly so it
was heavily soaked when he was doing disks (rounds).

For long ovals (small bar tops and coffee tables cut on a really acute
angle to teh grain) he slathered on the thinned poly with a large
brush till it dripped off, then let it dry 3 - 4 days. Anything that
fell off, he simply glued back on.


Some of the turners I know use CA extensively and buy it in large
containers... Apparently they find it cost effective because the majority of
the ones I know are cheap cheap cheap... you can hear their wallets squeak
if they have to PAY for wood. Free Wood.... Free Wood.... Free Wood.... is
their mantra! LOL

John

Subject

I must admit my lack of knowledge on the subject; however, I have a
question?

If the goal is to keep the bark FIRMLY attached in the final piece,
why not lift the bark, coat the surfaces with epoxy, then reattach and
allow epoxy to cure?

Am I missing something?

Lew

Thanks for the multiple ideas. I may try a mix of them. In some places the
bark is still well attached and in others it has pulled away by at least 1/2
inch. In areas where it is well attached I may try CA and for other areas
use Epoxy. I would prefer to not actually remove the bark for the concern of
getting it back in perfect alignment so that it looks right.

I am located in Upsate South Carolina so I may also be able to get some tips
from nearby folks who make rustic furniture, all I have to do is find them.

In the mean time if there are other ideas please reply.

Russ
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Subject

I must admit my lack of knowledge on the subject; however, I have a
question?

If the goal is to keep the bark FIRMLY attached in the final piece,
why not lift the bark, coat the surfaces with epoxy, then reattach and
allow epoxy to cure?

Am I missing something?

Lew

On Tue, 7 Apr 2009 19:21:08 -0400, "Russ Stanton"
wrote:

Thanks for the multiple ideas. I may try a mix of them. In some places the
bark is still well attached and in others it has pulled away by at least 1/2
inch. In areas where it is well attached I may try CA and for other areas
use Epoxy. I would prefer to not actually remove the bark for the concern of
getting it back in perfect alignment so that it looks right.

I am located in Upsate South Carolina so I may also be able to get some tips
from nearby folks who make rustic furniture, all I have to do is find them.

In the mean time if there are other ideas please reply.

Russ
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Subject

I must admit my lack of knowledge on the subject; however, I have a
question?

If the goal is to keep the bark FIRMLY attached in the final piece,
why not lift the bark, coat the surfaces with epoxy, then reattach and
allow epoxy to cure?

Am I missing something?

Lew



Russ,

I haven't tried this exactly, but I've used the Minwax wood hardener
on a carving and the results were similar to a soaking of CA glue. It
leaves the wood with a consistancy that I would compare to a hard
plastic. I would try this after gluing the loose pieces . A pint or
two of the wood hardener would be considerably cheaper than the glue
Afterwards, coat with you favorite finish.

HTH
Bill

On 7 Apr, 02:00, "Russ Stanton" wrote:

Any suggestions on how to glue or otherwise keep the bark attached?

Take it off, clean it up, stick it back on.

Most bark has some degree of beetle damage underneath it, chewing on
that tasty layer of cambium (obviously dependent on species of both
tree and local fauna). Bark that's already mostly severed isn't going
to stay attached, let alone if the larvae in there are still active.

On Apr 6, 7:00*pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have a slab of maple about 2 inches thick with an irregular shape that
would be thr right size for an end table. The way this was cut the bark is
on all the edges and I would like to keep it there. I will need to sand the
upper and lower surfaces to get them smooth enough for a table and am
concerned that the sanding action may break the bark free of the edge. It is
already quite loose in some places

Any suggestions on how to glue or otherwise keep the bark attached?

TIA

Russ

Russ,

I made some outdoor solar lamp holders from pine log sections, and
wanted to keep the bark on. I used 30 min epoxy, thinned a bunch with
alcohol, maybe 50-50. I dripped it down the joint between bark and
wood, a lot, and from both ends. Really soaked it. It's been out all
winter, and thru the rain, and looks as good as new.

Hope this helps.....