Does anybody know how to remove the bark from Robinia Pseudoacacia( Black
Locust) burr's?
I like to get the bark off without any damage to the wood, so I can choose
the right spot to drill the chamber to tighten it on my chuck. The thick
bark quite othen hides a hole or other surprise, which can be used if
noticed or destroy a design if unseen.

Chris
Dutch draaier

Chris:

I don't know if this will help or not but those of us who have had any
'learning' from John Jordan (or from several other big name turners)
ALWAYS start everything between centers. Once you drill your hole or
make a flat and attach a faceplate, the center and orientation of the
work is cast in bronze. If you start between centers it is not since
you can, as the work begins to take shape, move either the headstock end
or the tailstock end. When doing a natural edge bowl where you want the
wings symmetrical, for instance, you will almost surely need to do this
at least once.

Bill

Chris van Aar wrote:
Does anybody know how to remove the bark from Robinia Pseudoacacia( Black
Locust) burr's?
I like to get the bark off without any damage to the wood, so I can choose
the right spot to drill the chamber to tighten it on my chuck. The thick
bark quite othen hides a hole or other surprise, which can be used if
noticed or destroy a design if unseen.

Chris
Dutch draaier

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
news
Chris:

I don't know if this will help or not but those of us who have had any
'learning' from John Jordan (or from several other big name turners)
ALWAYS start everything between centers. Once you drill your hole or
make a flat and attach a faceplate, the center and orientation of the
work is cast in bronze. If you start between centers it is not since
you can, as the work begins to take shape, move either the headstock end
or the tailstock end. When doing a natural edge bowl where you want the
wings symmetrical, for instance, you will almost surely need to do this
at least once.

Bill

Chris van Aar wrote:
Does anybody know how to remove the bark from Robinia Pseudoacacia(
Black
Locust) burr's?
I like to get the bark off without any damage to the wood, so I can
choose
the right spot to drill the chamber to tighten it on my chuck. The thick
bark quite othen hides a hole or other surprise, which can be used if
noticed or destroy a design if unseen.


Pressure washers should do the majority of the task of bark removal. It's
certainly easier if you harvested the piece yourself in the growing season,
and allow a bit of natural action to eat at the cambium.

I would not be afraid to mount the piece in any manner you desire, save the
one Bill suggests, which can result in the piece departing the lathe. If
you bore a hole and find it's not what you want later on, fill the hole with
a dowel, bore again, and press on.

Bill,

I'll keep your suggestion in mind, but since I'm not a John Jordan , I can't
ask any price so there is not time to fool around for resetting my lathe
from between the centres to turning sideways and back. So I just drill my
hole diam 70mm and do it! By rechucking not right-angeled, there is normaly
enough margin to get it right. Furthermore I don't like to start a big
irregular piece fastened with a comparatively small centres. But thanks
anyway.

George,

My family regular shouts: not even under my bed, so there is no more place
for a pressure washer, so I hoped for other ways to do it.
As a former cabinetmaker, I dont like dowels, even dowels of 70mm diameter!
Thanks anyway, especially for standing up aganst Bill.

Chris,
Dutch draaier.

"George" george@least schreef in bericht
...

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
news
Chris:

I don't know if this will help or not but those of us who have had any
'learning' from John Jordan (or from several other big name turners)
ALWAYS start everything between centers. Once you drill your hole or
make a flat and attach a faceplate, the center and orientation of the
work is cast in bronze. If you start between centers it is not since
you can, as the work begins to take shape, move either the headstock end
or the tailstock end. When doing a natural edge bowl where you want the
wings symmetrical, for instance, you will almost surely need to do this
at least once.

Bill

Chris van Aar wrote:
Does anybody know how to remove the bark from Robinia Pseudoacacia(
Black
Locust) burr's?
I like to get the bark off without any damage to the wood, so I can
choose
the right spot to drill the chamber to tighten it on my chuck. The
thick
bark quite othen hides a hole or other surprise, which can be used if
noticed or destroy a design if unseen.


Pressure washers should do the majority of the task of bark removal. It's
certainly easier if you harvested the piece yourself in the growing
season,
and allow a bit of natural action to eat at the cambium.

I would not be afraid to mount the piece in any manner you desire, save
the
one Bill suggests, which can result in the piece departing the lathe. If
you bore a hole and find it's not what you want later on, fill the hole
with
a dowel, bore again, and press on.

"Chris van Aar" wrote in message
. nl...
My family regular shouts: not even under my bed, so there is no more place
for a pressure washer, so I hoped for other ways to do it.

Do you have those pressure car wash places over there? So many minutes of
high-pressure hot water for a Euro? Secure and blast away.

If not, you can try pressurized air as an alternative. Attack any gaps and
see if they'll lift.

Do you have those pressure car wash places over there? So many minutes of
high-pressure hot water for a Euro? Secure and blast away.

If not, you can try pressurized air as an alternative. Attack any gaps
and
see if they'll lift.

Yes, yes, that's what I hoped for! So simple, I could have imagined it
myself, of course (but I din't), so thank you very much!!