I have a medium sized kitchen and the cabinets are just ugly. The
carcasses are in good shape and I just want to reface them and build
new doors and drawer fronts. I'm going to build the door frames in a
simple flat panel Shaker style.

I have a bunch of kiln dried but rough sawn cherry lumber. Most of it
is pretty flat.

I'll need to resaw the 1" thick boards into 1/4" thick (after planing)
'veneers' for the refacing.

I really can't afford both tools at a cost of $1200. I can afford a
nice jointer for $700 though.

I'm leaning towards getting the jointer now and resawing on the table
saw.

Advice or opinions?

Thanks, Brian

On Apr 3, 8:17*am, Brian wrote:
I have a medium sized kitchen and the cabinets are just ugly. *The
carcasses are in good shape and I just want to reface them and build
new doors and drawer fronts. *I'm going to build the door frames in a
simple flat panel Shaker style.

I have a bunch of kiln dried but rough sawn cherry lumber. *Most of it
is pretty flat.

I'll need to resaw the 1" thick boards into 1/4" thick (after planing)
'veneers' for the refacing.

I really can't afford both tools at a cost of $1200. *I can afford a
nice jointer for $700 though.

I'm leaning towards getting the jointer now and resawing on the table
saw.

Advice or opinions?

Thanks, Brian

I think I would go for the jointer too. Just keep in mind that
resawing on the table saw has some limitations, not the least of which
is need of a sharp blade. Also, most table saws are limited to about
a 3-1/2" depth which means you can resaw about 6-1/2" - 7" wide
stock. It can also be a little dangerous if you don't keep your brain
attached to your hands; and you should use a tall auxiliary fence and
featherboards (or a guide of some kind).

On the other hand resawing with a band saw works well, but it takes
some time to master the process.

Both processes will leave an ugly surface that will have to be
smoothed up. Obviously the jointer will help there but do you have a
thickness planer?

Can you mooch band saw or surface planer time from a friend or local
school or business? We have a local cabinet shop that allows folks to
use the paint booth and certain tools off-hours. That is an advantage
of small-town living but it also builds good will for the owners.

Just thoughts.

RonB

"Brian" wrote in message
...
I have a medium sized kitchen and the cabinets are just ugly. The
carcasses are in good shape and I just want to reface them and build
new doors and drawer fronts. I'm going to build the door frames in a
simple flat panel Shaker style.

I have a bunch of kiln dried but rough sawn cherry lumber. Most of it
is pretty flat.

I'll need to resaw the 1" thick boards into 1/4" thick (after planing)
'veneers' for the refacing.

I really can't afford both tools at a cost of $1200. I can afford a
nice jointer for $700 though.

I'm leaning towards getting the jointer now and resawing on the table
saw.

Advice or opinions?

Thanks, Brian

I did this about 6 months ago for a customer. His cabinets were the typical
builder installed particle board cabinets with a heavily stained
unidentifiable face frame wood and similar stain on Oak door and drawer
fronts.

I made the doors and face frame veneers from out of Maple.

I probably have some advantages, because this was a paying job I started off
with S4S Maple and resawed the boards 1x6 boards into 1/8" thick veneers. I
used a Laguna 16HD BS for this and easily got 5 veneers from each board. I
cut the boards to 4' lengths for easier handling prior to resawing.
Then the veneers went straight to the drum sander to obtain a consistent
3/32" thickness.

When ever I re-do a kitchen I always go back with concealed Euro style
hinges and use the Compact Blum hinges. These hinges screw directly into
the edge of the door opening into the face frame, I buy these style hinges
in bulk.
Also these hinges pretty much self center from he front to back of the face
frame providing the face frame is 3/4" thick. The cabinet face frames I was
veneering were a total of 3/4" thick after attaching the veneer. Had the
face frames been 3/4" thick to start with the installation would have been
more involved using the same hinges.

Something to watch out for, I used Titebond trim adhesive to attach the
veneers to the cabinets along with a pinner nail gun to hold the pieces,
the glue was relatively fast setting. I applied the glue to the first
veneered piece and had bad results, the veneer cupped. I quickly found that
applying the glue to the cabinet and then attaching the veneer solved the
problem perfectly.

If I were to do it again I would buy the veneer ready made. I would prefer
to use a preglued and thinner veneer.

If you resaw your 1" thick boards on the TS into 1/4" pieces you are going
to have a "lot" of waste. Basically you will get "2" pieces from each
board.

For that kind of money you can buy
all the needed materials to reface the
kitchen and spend your other time and
money on the doors.

An example: http://www.rhcdoors.com/Veneer.htm

In my opinion, to make any reasonable
looking doors, you are going to need
the three basic tools:

(1) table saw
(2) jointer
(3) planer

I assume you have one of these ???

Brian wrote:
I have a medium sized kitchen and the cabinets are just ugly. The
carcasses are in good shape and I just want to reface them and build
new doors and drawer fronts. I'm going to build the door frames in a
simple flat panel Shaker style.

I have a bunch of kiln dried but rough sawn cherry lumber. Most of it
is pretty flat.

I'll need to resaw the 1" thick boards into 1/4" thick (after planing)
'veneers' for the refacing.

I really can't afford both tools at a cost of $1200. I can afford a
nice jointer for $700 though.

I'm leaning towards getting the jointer now and resawing on the table
saw.

Advice or opinions?

Thanks, Brian

Thanks for the advice. I do have a planer and table saw and plenty of
wood. I think I could find a neighbor with a halfway decent band saw
to do the resawing.

The jointer will certainly get more use long term as I do purchase
rough wood a lot.

I'm headed to my local woodworking dealer today to check out jointers.

Thanks again!

"Brian" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the advice. I do have a planer and table saw and plenty of
wood. I think I could find a neighbor with a halfway decent band saw
to do the resawing.

The jointer will certainly get more use long term as I do purchase
rough wood a lot.

I'm headed to my local woodworking dealer today to check out jointers.

Thanks again!

Something to think about. I have had a jointer since the late 80's and it
has probably seen about 20 hours of work. Right now I am looking to get rid
of it and not replace it. There are several ways to straighten and flatten
a rough cut board with a planer and TS, that is what I do all the time. For
long boards you need a pretty sizeable jointer for decent results.

On Apr 3, 10:48*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Brian" wrote in message

...

Thanks for the advice. *I do have a planer and table saw and plenty of
wood. *I think I could find a neighbor with a halfway decent band saw
to do the resawing.

The jointer will certainly get more use long term as I do purchase
rough wood a lot.

I'm headed to my local woodworking dealer today to check out jointers.

Thanks again!

Something to think about. *I have had a jointer since the late 80's and it
has probably seen about 20 hours of work. *Right now I am looking to get rid
of it and not replace it. *There are several ways to straighten and flatten
a rough cut board with a planer and TS, that is what I do all the time. *For
long boards you need a pretty sizeable jointer for decent results.

Agreed. I have a 6" jointer with a 48" (or close to that msmt) bed
and I had some significant difficulty making a flat face on some ~7'
6"x3" white oak timbers I am working with. Just too tough to manage
with 5' of really heavy timber hanging off the infeed bed. Even
setting up some rollers didn't help. Finally cut things to near
finish length (45" and 22") in order that I could joint them.

8" jointer with a 72" bed woulda prolly worked but I don't have the
room to house it nor the coin to buy it.

D'ohBoy

"D'ohBoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 10:48 am, "Leon" wrote:


Something to think about. I have had a jointer since the late 80's and it
has probably seen about 20 hours of work. Right now I am looking to get
rid
of it and not replace it. There are several ways to straighten and flatten
a rough cut board with a planer and TS, that is what I do all the time.
For
long boards you need a pretty sizeable jointer for decent results.

Agreed. I have a 6" jointer with a 48" (or close to that msmt) bed
and I had some significant difficulty making a flat face on some ~7'
6"x3" white oak timbers I am working with. Just too tough to manage
with 5' of really heavy timber hanging off the infeed bed. Even
setting up some rollers didn't help. Finally cut things to near
finish length (45" and 22") in order that I could joint them.

8" jointer with a 72" bed woulda prolly worked but I don't have the
room to house it nor the coin to buy it.

D'ohBoy


I inquired about the larger 8" jointers with the longer 6' beds and those
using them have even indicated that 7' is still difficult to do. IMHO the
in deed needs to be at least half the distance of the board length, maybe
longer.

Of course the way I do things is to prepare the stock prior to cutting to
needed lengths. I suppose I could cut up all the rough stock in to
approximate needed sizes and then flatten and straighten the pieces.

If you're in a metro area, you might want to take a look at Craig's
List. I got my Jet 14" bandsaw for $175, my Jet 6" jointer for $200 and
my Delta planer for $160. All three were in excellent working condition
and required little in the way of tune-up ... although I'm still futzing
with the bandsaw.

Larry

Brian wrote:
I have a medium sized kitchen and the cabinets are just ugly. The
carcasses are in good shape and I just want to reface them and build
new doors and drawer fronts. I'm going to build the door frames in a
simple flat panel Shaker style.

I have a bunch of kiln dried but rough sawn cherry lumber. Most of it
is pretty flat.

I'll need to resaw the 1" thick boards into 1/4" thick (after planing)
'veneers' for the refacing.

I really can't afford both tools at a cost of $1200. I can afford a
nice jointer for $700 though.

I'm leaning towards getting the jointer now and resawing on the table
saw.

Advice or opinions?

Thanks, Brian

Here si what you need.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/tls/1096922792.html


On Apr 3, 6:17*am, Brian wrote:
I have a medium sized kitchen and the cabinets are just ugly. *The
carcasses are in good shape and I just want to reface them and build
new doors and drawer fronts. *I'm going to build the door frames in a
simple flat panel Shaker style.

I have a bunch of kiln dried but rough sawn cherry lumber. *Most of it
is pretty flat.

I'll need to resaw the 1" thick boards into 1/4" thick (after planing)
'veneers' for the refacing.

I really can't afford both tools at a cost of $1200. *I can afford a
nice jointer for $700 though.

I'm leaning towards getting the jointer now and resawing on the table
saw.

Advice or opinions?

Thanks, Brian

On Fri, 3 Apr 2009 06:17:18 -0700 (PDT), Brian
wrote:

I have a medium sized kitchen and the cabinets are just ugly. The
carcasses are in good shape and I just want to reface them and build
new doors and drawer fronts. I'm going to build the door frames in a
simple flat panel Shaker style.

I have a bunch of kiln dried but rough sawn cherry lumber. Most of it
is pretty flat.

I'll need to resaw the 1" thick boards into 1/4" thick (after planing)
'veneers' for the refacing.

I really can't afford both tools at a cost of $1200. I can afford a
nice jointer for $700 though.

I'm leaning towards getting the jointer now and resawing on the table
saw.

Advice or opinions?

Thanks, Brian


To make the job easier you need a thickness planer, joiner, and table
saw. The joiner and table saw for stiles and rails, and the
thickness planer for the panels. Resawing on a tablesaw can be done,
but it is somewhat limited and time-consuming. The best tool for
resawing is a bandsaw with the widest blade allowed--you'll save more
wood too. Consider using 1/4" cherry ply panels. Many kitchens are
demolished every 20 years anyway--I'll save my best solid woods for
heirloom furniture.

If you look (call) around, you should be able to find some one with a mini
mill to resaw the wood for you, at a reasonable enough total cost.


"Brian" wrote in message
...
I have a medium sized kitchen and the cabinets are just ugly. The
carcasses are in good shape and I just want to reface them and build
new doors and drawer fronts. I'm going to build the door frames in a
simple flat panel Shaker style.

I have a bunch of kiln dried but rough sawn cherry lumber. Most of it
is pretty flat.

I'll need to resaw the 1" thick boards into 1/4" thick (after planing)
'veneers' for the refacing.

I really can't afford both tools at a cost of $1200. I can afford a
nice jointer for $700 though.

I'm leaning towards getting the jointer now and resawing on the table
saw.

Advice or opinions?

Thanks, Brian