Hi,

I'm searching a jig to route the hinge mortises on my doors, I've found
Bosch 83038.

I know Leevalley used to have one but they don't anymore, anyone have
suggestions.

Thanks.

SevYA wrote:


I know Leevalley used to have one but they don't anymore, anyone have
suggestions.

I make them from hardboard and a strip to register on the edge of the door.

"SevYA" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I'm searching a jig to route the hinge mortises on my doors, I've found
Bosch 83038.

I know Leevalley used to have one but they don't anymore, anyone have
suggestions.

Thanks.

The magazine Shop Notes had plans for a hinge mortise jig. It is in volume
16, issue # 94. If you decide to make your own, I could fax the plan to you
assuming you don't subscribe to that magazine.

B A R R Y;1513972 Wrote:
SevYA wrote:-


I know Leevalley used to have one but they don't anymore, anyone have

suggestions.-

I make them from hardboard and a strip to register on the edge of the
door.

I dont have the exact model but I know HITACHI Power tools have it.
I remember my dad using it.




--
albeerr

You appear to be talking about interior doors, no cabinet
doors.

That leaves you with Bosch or Porter Cable.

PC has been the king of that market for quite a while..

http://www.coastaltool.com/a/accessories/door_acc.htm
http://www.coastaltool.com/a/port/59381.htm

and Stanley also does that sort of stuff and can be
found at Lowes or Home Depot.


SevYA wrote:
Hi,

I'm searching a jig to route the hinge mortises on my doors, I've found
Bosch 83038.

I know Leevalley used to have one but they don't anymore, anyone have
suggestions.

Thanks.

On Wed, 04 Feb 2009 20:56:17 GMT, "SevYA"
wrote:

I'm searching a jig to route the hinge mortises on my doors, I've found
Bosch 83038.


We use the Milwaukee model but they are all about the same. If you
only have a few doors and this is a one time deal it might be cheaper
to make your own or buy a single butt template.

The big advantage to the factory models is that they are adjustable
for just about any door thickness/ height and most hinge sizes. Of
course you can always use it and sell it when you're finished.

Mike O.

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 11:41:48 -0600, Mike wrote:

On Wed, 04 Feb 2009 20:56:17 GMT, "SevYA"
wrote:

I'm searching a jig to route the hinge mortises on my doors, I've found
Bosch 83038.


We use the Milwaukee model but they are all about the same. If you
only have a few doors and this is a one time deal it might be cheaper
to make your own or buy a single butt template.

The big advantage to the factory models is that they are adjustable
for just about any door thickness/ height and most hinge sizes. Of
course you can always use it and sell it when you're finished.

Mike O.

I like the way Mike thinks!
We have and use the Porter-Cable 59381 that Pat posted a link for, and
it works very well. But if I were just doing a few doors,(especially
if they were all the same size), I'd consider making my own. (and
would probably have enough time invested by the time I was done to
have paid for the PC one) =0)

Lenny

You been studying my methods again ???

wrote:

I like the way Mike thinks!
We have and use the Porter-Cable 59381 that Pat posted a link for, and
it works very well. But if I were just doing a few doors,(especially
if they were all the same size), I'd consider making my own. (and
would probably have enough time invested by the time I was done to
have paid for the PC one) =0)

Lenny

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 16:47:28 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 11:41:48 -0600, Mike wrote:

On Wed, 04 Feb 2009 20:56:17 GMT, "SevYA"
wrote:

I'm searching a jig to route the hinge mortises on my doors, I've found
Bosch 83038.


We use the Milwaukee model but they are all about the same. If you
only have a few doors and this is a one time deal it might be cheaper
to make your own or buy a single butt template.

The big advantage to the factory models is that they are adjustable
for just about any door thickness/ height and most hinge sizes. Of
course you can always use it and sell it when you're finished.

Mike O.

I like the way Mike thinks!
We have and use the Porter-Cable 59381 that Pat posted a link for, and
it works very well. But if I were just doing a few doors,(especially
if they were all the same size), I'd consider making my own. (and
would probably have enough time invested by the time I was done to
have paid for the PC one) =0)

Lenny

I'm assuming that you're replacing your doors and dealing with
existing jambs, if that is the case trying to use one of those
put-together jigs can be difficult if not impossible...my PC kit sits
in my shop, haven't used it in years. Reason is I rarely get new
finish jobs anymore and I rely mostly on replacements. The jig(s) I
use are Templaco (add .com) and very simple. You can get the 3 hinge
version (which applies to new jambs and doors and works great and
never needs adjustment) or the one hinge model...they come in all
conventional sizes (3" to 4 1/2"). So I, and alot of the door
replacement guys around here, use really only one jig for the
appropriate-size hinge...you get your initial measurement to the top
of the top hinge, mark and adjust for the router template guide, and
make the cut, making sure that the setback from the edge of the door
is identical to the jamb. Once this is done it's an easy process to
hook and measure for the other hinge locations...moving the jig to
each new marking (don't forget to adjust for the template guide!). AFA
making your own, why not? If you have the time it seems reasonable...

cg

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 16:47:28 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 11:41:48 -0600, Mike wrote:

On Wed, 04 Feb 2009 20:56:17 GMT, "SevYA"
wrote:

I'm searching a jig to route the hinge mortises on my doors, I've found
Bosch 83038.

We use the Milwaukee model but they are all about the same. If you
only have a few doors and this is a one time deal it might be cheaper
to make your own or buy a single butt template.

The big advantage to the factory models is that they are adjustable
for just about any door thickness/ height and most hinge sizes. Of
course you can always use it and sell it when you're finished.

Mike O.
I like the way Mike thinks!
We have and use the Porter-Cable 59381 that Pat posted a link for, and
it works very well. But if I were just doing a few doors,(especially
if they were all the same size), I'd consider making my own. (and
would probably have enough time invested by the time I was done to
have paid for the PC one) =0)

Lenny

I'm assuming that you're replacing your doors and dealing with
existing jambs, if that is the case trying to use one of those
put-together jigs can be difficult if not impossible...my PC kit sits
in my shop, haven't used it in years. Reason is I rarely get new
finish jobs anymore and I rely mostly on replacements. The jig(s) I
use are Templaco (add .com) and very simple. You can get the 3 hinge
version (which applies to new jambs and doors and works great and
never needs adjustment) or the one hinge model...they come in all
conventional sizes (3" to 4 1/2"). So I, and alot of the door
replacement guys around here, use really only one jig for the
appropriate-size hinge...you get your initial measurement to the top
of the top hinge, mark and adjust for the router template guide, and
make the cut, making sure that the setback from the edge of the door
is identical to the jamb. Once this is done it's an easy process to
hook and measure for the other hinge locations...moving the jig to
each new marking (don't forget to adjust for the template guide!). AFA
making your own, why not? If you have the time it seems reasonable...

cg

Charlie Groh wrote:

I'm assuming that you're replacing your doors and dealing with
existing jambs, if that is the case trying to use one of those
put-together jigs can be difficult if not impossible...my PC kit sits
in my shop, haven't used it in years. Reason is I rarely get new
finish jobs anymore and I rely mostly on replacements. The jig(s) I
use are Templaco (add .com) and very simple. You can get the 3 hinge
version (which applies to new jambs and doors and works great and
never needs adjustment) or the one hinge model...they come in all
conventional sizes (3" to 4 1/2"). So I, and alot of the door
replacement guys around here, use really only one jig for the
appropriate-size hinge...you get your initial measurement to the top
of the top hinge, mark and adjust for the router template guide, and
make the cut, making sure that the setback from the edge of the door
is identical to the jamb. Once this is done it's an easy process to
hook and measure for the other hinge locations...moving the jig to
each new marking (don't forget to adjust for the template guide!). AFA
making your own, why not? If you have the time it seems reasonable...


I don't replace doors for a living, so I'll illustrate my method, based
on what Charlie posted.

- Trace the hinge on 1/4" hardboard
- Cut the "jig" with a jigsaw. G
- Brad nail or screw a wood fence to set the "set back".
- Measure the top hinge and set the jig, holding it in place with carpet
tape
- Rout the mortise with a top bearing bit, as this makes the jigs much
easier to make.
- Move the pattern to the 2nd, 3rd, and if necessary, 4th mortise location

If you're using rounded corner hinges, use a bit that matches the corner
radius.

Square edge hinges? Finish with a sharp chisel.

It's cake! as well as cheap...

I have one of these for euro style hinges.Not sure if this is what you
want...
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=165

"SevYA" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I'm searching a jig to route the hinge mortises on my doors, I've found
Bosch 83038.

I know Leevalley used to have one but they don't anymore, anyone have
suggestions.

Thanks.

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 18:19:14 -0500, B A R R Y
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:

I'm assuming that you're replacing your doors and dealing with
existing jambs, if that is the case trying to use one of those
put-together jigs can be difficult if not impossible...my PC kit sits
in my shop, haven't used it in years. Reason is I rarely get new
finish jobs anymore and I rely mostly on replacements. The jig(s) I
use are Templaco (add .com) and very simple. You can get the 3 hinge
version (which applies to new jambs and doors and works great and
never needs adjustment) or the one hinge model...they come in all
conventional sizes (3" to 4 1/2"). So I, and alot of the door
replacement guys around here, use really only one jig for the
appropriate-size hinge...you get your initial measurement to the top
of the top hinge, mark and adjust for the router template guide, and
make the cut, making sure that the setback from the edge of the door
is identical to the jamb. Once this is done it's an easy process to
hook and measure for the other hinge locations...moving the jig to
each new marking (don't forget to adjust for the template guide!). AFA
making your own, why not? If you have the time it seems reasonable...


I don't replace doors for a living, so I'll illustrate my method, based
on what Charlie posted.

- Trace the hinge on 1/4" hardboard
- Cut the "jig" with a jigsaw. G
- Brad nail or screw a wood fence to set the "set back".
- Measure the top hinge and set the jig, holding it in place with carpet
tape
- Rout the mortise with a top bearing bit, as this makes the jigs much
easier to make.
- Move the pattern to the 2nd, 3rd, and if necessary, 4th mortise location

If you're using rounded corner hinges, use a bit that matches the corner
radius.

Square edge hinges? Finish with a sharp chisel.

It's cake! as well as cheap...

....yup, this'll work! I'm not getting the top-bearing bit part,
tho...wouldn't that be a hassle to get your depth right on? IMO,
template guides are a great thing, just allow for the difference in
your jig and you're off and running...I cut jigs all the time using my
table saw almost exclusively...you can run over the corners and the
template guide doesn't know! I use 1/4" stock too, but I have to
grind the template guide down to 3/16" or so...1/4" melemine works
great for these...

cg

Charlie Groh wrote:

....yup, this'll work! I'm not getting the top-bearing bit part,
tho...wouldn't that be a hassle to get your depth right on?

Not really. As long as some part of the bearing meets the template,
it's fine. If the bit is too long, just use thick stock.

I cut jigs all the time using my
table saw almost exclusively

Same here... I was simplifying and kind of kidding around.