In another thread I discussed my issue with the new pads and that they
are .100" thicker than the originals.

The poly glue, Elmers knockoff of Gorilla, seems to be doing the job
however, and I have sanded them down to get a good fit.

I adjusted the fence to the slot.

Next issue -- the fence is not perpendicular to the table. If I
adjust one side, the other is out, and vice versa. It seems to me
that the left side of the fence is not paralled to the right side of
the fence. When I make the blade side parallel, it's a pretty big
adjustment, with noticeable "tip" on the fence as it fits onto the
rail.

Anyone else seen this?

I did install the rail parallel to the table.

coloradotrout wrote:
In another thread I discussed my issue with the new pads and that they
are .100" thicker than the originals.

The poly glue, Elmers knockoff of Gorilla, seems to be doing the job
however, and I have sanded them down to get a good fit.

I adjusted the fence to the slot.

Next issue -- the fence is not perpendicular to the table. If I
adjust one side, the other is out, and vice versa. It seems to me
that the left side of the fence is not paralled to the right side of
the fence. When I make the blade side parallel, it's a pretty big
adjustment, with noticeable "tip" on the fence as it fits onto the
rail.

Anyone else seen this?

I did install the rail parallel to the table.

Adjust the fence so the face most often used perpendicular to the table
then shim the face of the side less used to make it perpendicular.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Jan 17, 2:44*pm, Nova wrote:
coloradotrout wrote:
In another thread I discussed my issue with the new pads and that they
are .100" thicker than the originals.

The poly glue, Elmers knockoff of Gorilla, seems to be doing the job
however, and I have sanded them down to get a good fit.

I adjusted the fence to the slot.

Next issue -- *the fence is not perpendicular to the table. *If I
adjust one side, the other is out, and vice versa. *It seems to me
that the left side of the fence is not paralled to the right side of
the fence. *When I make the blade side parallel, it's a pretty big
adjustment, with noticeable "tip" on the fence as it fits onto the
rail.

Anyone else seen this?

I did install the rail parallel to the table.

Adjust the fence so the face most often used perpendicular to the table
then shim the face of the side less used to make it perpendicular.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, pretty discouraging considering it's a 2 year old cabinet
saw.. think they could get the fence square.

It almost seems like the plastic has warped a bit.. The bottom 1"
seems mostly perpendicular and then the top bows out. Something like
this:

) ( with the bottoms straight.

I heard elsewhere that the ply fences were less prone to distortion.

"Nova" wrote in message
...
coloradotrout wrote:
In another thread I discussed my issue with the new pads and that they
are .100" thicker than the originals.

The poly glue, Elmers knockoff of Gorilla, seems to be doing the job
however, and I have sanded them down to get a good fit.

I adjusted the fence to the slot.

Next issue -- the fence is not perpendicular to the table. If I
adjust one side, the other is out, and vice versa. It seems to me
that the left side of the fence is not paralled to the right side of
the fence. When I make the blade side parallel, it's a pretty big
adjustment, with noticeable "tip" on the fence as it fits onto the
rail.

Anyone else seen this?

I did install the rail parallel to the table.

Adjust the fence so the face most often used perpendicular to the table
then shim the face of the side less used to make it perpendicular.


Isn't that what thickness planers are for? ;~)

John