Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

Anyone else have an opinion? Top Coat is another commercial product
that reportedly works well. The folks supporting Penetrol have some
impressive stories.

I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops
I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid
part of the country.

I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. What
should I use? What prep steps should I take before I apply the
Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?

I use acetone to remove wax from furniture and it comes squeaky clean
so I assume that will work well. When using auto waxes be very careful
not to use ones that have any silicon which most do now days. Tiny
amounts of silicon will wreak havoc on film finishes and sometimes
hurt staining too.

Top Cote gets bad marks from some folks. I've used it only to help
slick up a surface that was not sliding well and it was a good temp
fix for that but I haven't used it for rust protection. Furniture wax
seems to be the standard. The old guys will tell you to just rub out
your tops with wax paper but I worry about what wax it uses now days.
I suppose some sort of oil bath first couldn't hurt. Haven't heard of
Penetrol but sounds like WD 40 or something.

On Dec 16, 11:26*am, coloradotrout wrote:
Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

Anyone else have an opinion? *Top Coat is another commercial product
that reportedly works well. *The folks supporting Penetrol have some
impressive stories.

I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops
I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid
part of the country.

I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. *What
should I use? *What prep steps should I take before I apply the
Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?

On Dec 16, 3:06*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I use acetone to remove wax from furniture and it comes squeaky clean
so I assume that will work well. When using auto waxes be very careful
not to use ones that have any silicon which most do now days. Tiny
amounts of silicon will wreak havoc on film finishes and sometimes
hurt staining too.

Top Cote gets bad marks from some folks. I've used it only to help
slick up a surface that was not sliding well and it was a good temp
fix for that but I haven't used it for rust protection. Furniture wax
seems to be the standard. The old guys will tell you to just rub out
your tops with wax paper but I worry about what wax it uses now days.
I suppose some sort of oil bath first couldn't hurt. Haven't heard of
Penetrol but sounds like WD 40 or something.

On Dec 16, 11:26*am, coloradotrout wrote:

Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

Anyone else have an opinion? *Top Coat is another commercial product
that reportedly works well. *The folks supporting Penetrol have some
impressive stories.

I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops
I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid
part of the country.

I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. *What
should I use? *What prep steps should I take before I apply the
Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?

Penetrol is a highly refined linseed oil, triple boiled...or some-
such. It will dry like a finish.

TopCote remains the gold standard in my opinion.

There have been many discussions over the years
about this subject, but TopCote remains the top
performing product in that class.

I live next to a salt water river and 3 miles from the
Atlantic ocean and I can promise you that I have
VERY high humidity.

Topcote has performed the best for me.

Your mileage might vary.

http://www.bostik-us.com/products/in...&categoryId=27



coloradotrout wrote:
Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

You sure that is Penetrol ???

http://www.flood.com/flood/Products/...+Prod+Page.htm

coloradotrout wrote:
Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

Anyone else have an opinion? Top Coat is another commercial product
that reportedly works well. The folks supporting Penetrol have some
impressive stories.

I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops
I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid
part of the country.

I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. What
should I use? What prep steps should I take before I apply the
Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?

"coloradotrout" wrote in message
...
Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

Anyone else have an opinion? Top Coat is another commercial product
that reportedly works well. The folks supporting Penetrol have some
impressive stories.

I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops
I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid
part of the country.

I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. What
should I use? What prep steps should I take before I apply the
Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?

I use TopCote and some times I use Empire top saver. I live in a humid
zone, Houston, and add in to that mix the presence of salt in the air.
I bought a new Jet cabinet saw in 2000 IIRC and had previously always used
TopCote on my Craftsman saw. I had a can of Boshield waiting for the new
saw. I applied a liberal cot to the top and had rust on the top surface the
next morning.

I went back to TopCote. DIY TopCote was invented by the makers of Empire
products, "Top Saver",

IMHO the problem with wax based products in a humid environment is that you
have to over coat the top and remove the excess before using the equipment.
TopCote never has to be removed regardless of how many coats you put down.
If you are in a humid environment I strongly suggest a minimum of 3 initial
top cotes "IMMEDIATELY" after cleaning of the factory applied protestant,
not tomorrow or later tonight, immediately.
Additionally things will happen and cause rust spots. You may drip sweat on
the top and not notice or drip a drink, etc. Empire Top Saver will almost
completely restore the brighter metal surface in most cases if the need
arises.
By accident I discovered that Wood Glue will remove rust. I often have
drops of glue hit the TS surface and dry. When I chip/pop the glue from the
surface a silvery clean surface is revealed. Treat that spot immediately!

On Dec 16, 2:35*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"coloradotrout" wrote in message

...

Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

Anyone else have an opinion? *Top Coat is another commercial product
that reportedly works well. *The folks supporting Penetrol have some
impressive stories.

I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops
I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid
part of the country.

I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. *What
should I use? *What prep steps should I take before I apply the
Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?

I use TopCote and some times I use Empire top saver. *I live in a humid
zone, Houston, and add in to that mix the presence of salt in the air.
I bought a new Jet cabinet saw in 2000 IIRC and had previously always used
TopCote on my Craftsman saw. *I had a can of Boshield waiting for the new
saw. *I applied a liberal cot to the top and had rust on the top surface the
next morning.

I went back to TopCote. *DIY TopCote was invented by the makers of Empire
products, "Top Saver",

IMHO the problem with wax based products in a humid environment is that you
have to over coat the top and remove the excess before using the equipment.

On Dec 16, 4:11*pm, coloradotrout wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:35*pm, "Leon" wrote:





"coloradotrout" wrote in message

....

Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

Anyone else have an opinion? *Top Coat is another commercial product
that reportedly works well. *The folks supporting Penetrol have some
impressive stories.

I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops
I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid
part of the country.

I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. *What
should I use? *What prep steps should I take before I apply the
Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?

I use TopCote and some times I use Empire top saver. *I live in a humid
zone, Houston, and add in to that mix the presence of salt in the air.
I bought a new Jet cabinet saw in 2000 IIRC and had previously always used
TopCote on my Craftsman saw. *I had a can of Boshield waiting for the new
saw. *I applied a liberal cot to the top and had rust on the top surface the
next morning.

I went back to TopCote. *DIY TopCote was invented by the makers of Empire
products, "Top Saver",

IMHO the problem with wax based products in a humid environment is that you
have to over coat the top and remove the excess before using the equipment.
TopCote never has to be removed regardless of how many coats you put down.
If you are in a humid environment I strongly suggest a minimum of 3 initial
top cotes "IMMEDIATELY" after cleaning of the factory applied protestant,
not tomorrow or later tonight, immediately.
Additionally things will happen and cause rust spots. *You may drip sweat on
the top and not notice or drip a drink, etc. *Empire Top Saver will almost
completely restore the brighter metal surface in most cases if the need
arises.
By accident I discovered that Wood Glue will remove rust. *I often have
drops of glue hit the TS surface and dry. *When I chip/pop the glue from the
surface a silvery clean surface is revealed. *Treat that spot immediately!

So I have a pretty clean top right now, with a few discolorations.
Likewise for the jointer and bandsaw.

How best do I "clean" them, before I lay down one of these rust
prevention treatments?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Gang I recently purrchased a shaper and in the instruction booklet
they said to clean the table top with a good wax and degreaser and
then rub the table down with talcum powder for rust prevention. Has
anyone tried this before? I have always used a paste wax on my
equipment tables for rust prevention but would be interesed in seeing
if this works.

Paul

"coloradotrout" wrote in message
...
On Dec 16, 2:35 pm, "Leon" wrote:

So I have a pretty clean top right now, with a few discolorations.
Likewise for the jointer and bandsaw.

How best do I "clean" them, before I lay down one of these rust
prevention treatments?


Empire Top saver will help get rid of the patina that developes over time
alsong with the surface rust. For a good cleaning I put a ScotchBrite pad
under my ROS and use that to work the TopSaver product intot he surface.

On Dec 16, 3:14*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Dec 16, 3:06*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
trol and then Johnson paste wax?

Penetrol is a highly refined linseed oil, triple boiled...or some-
such. It will dry like a finish.

Penetrol® Oil-Based Paint Additive
http://www.flood.com/flood/Products/...+Prod+Page.htm

Enhances penetration and adhesion of oil-based paints and primers

Make interior painting projects flow more smoothly by using Penetrol®
Oil Paint Conditioner with oil or alkyd paints. Penetrol reduces brush
marks and leveling problems with the paint, and reduces fatigue and
frustration with painting projects.

Where To Use
• Add to oil or alkyd paints to condition it to flow more smoothly
while improving the penetration and adhesion of the paint.
• Improves leveling so you can expect a smoother coat that’s easier to
apply.

Application
• Stir and mix paint thoroughly and apply. When paint “pulls” or
“sets” too fast, add Penetrol until the paint spreads smoothly and
easily.
• Let the brush, roller or spray be the guide. Add enough Penetrol to
make the paint work smoothly, giving sufficient “wet edge” time.
• Start with about a 10% addition of Penetrol.
• If paint is very thick, or weather hot or cold, 20-30% more Penetrol
may be required. (For example, one quart of Penetrol per gallon of
paint).
• After paint is used for a while, more Penetrol may be needed.
• NOTE: Addition of Penetrol may raise coating VOC. Please check with
local and applicable VOC regulations before using Penetrol.
• The amount of Penetrol needed for easy application of flat, semi-
gloss and gloss paints does not change their appearance.

Dry Time
• The majority of oil-based paints when applied at room temperature
will be dry (set-to-touch) within 8 to 24 hours.

Clean Up
• Clean up tools with mineral spirits.
• Danger! Rags, steel wool or waste soaked with this product may
spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after
use, place rags, steel wool or waste in a sealed, water-filled metal
container.

penetrol as rust prevention..
http://faculty.icc.edu/eockerhausen/tips.asp
http://www.floodaustralia.net/produc...etrol_rust.htm
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9010

I believe that is the first time I have ever
seen that even suggested on this group.


coloradotrout wrote:
penetrol as rust prevention..
http://faculty.icc.edu/eockerhausen/tips.asp
http://www.floodaustralia.net/produc...etrol_rust.htm
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9010

On Dec 17, 12:15*pm, Pat Barber wrote:
I believe that is the first time I have ever
seen that even suggested on this group.



coloradotrout wrote:
penetrol as rust prevention..
http://faculty.icc.edu/eockerhausen/tips.asp
http://www.floodaustralia.net/produc...etrol_rust.htm
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9010- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The ridgid forum source is the one with the most tangible info for
woodworkers. That's what got me to start asking questions. But, like
others, I hate to pour something atop my baby (aka cabinet saw).
Johnson paste wax is the safe bet, but we get pretty humid here and in
the course of our move in August I have small pits on my TS, jointer,
and bandsaw tables. I'd really like to do all I can to prevent rust.

On Tue, 16 Dec 2008 11:26:34 -0800 (PST), coloradotrout
wrote:

Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

Anyone else have an opinion? Top Coat is another commercial product
that reportedly works well. The folks supporting Penetrol have some
impressive stories.

I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops
I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid
part of the country.

I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. What
should I use? What prep steps should I take before I apply the
Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?

I have used Johnson wax on my table top and jointer for over 17 years.
I buff it out with rags. To clean the top I'd use kerosene or mineral
spirits. I found that the kerosene will remove thin coats of rust,
and kind to skin.

[...snip...]
Gang I recently purrchased a shaper and in the instruction booklet
they said to clean the table top with a good wax and degreaser and
then rub the table down with talcum powder for rust prevention. Has
anyone tried this before? I have always used a paste wax on my
equipment tables for rust prevention but would be interesed in seeing
if this works.

Paul

talcum powder; I recall seeing that before. It is supposed to fill
the pores in a cast iron surface and keep rust away, reduce and
friction. I don't think it will last very long, however.

Anyway, do a Google search on the topic and you will find many hits.

Jim

coloradotrout wrote:
Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if
not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.

I pretend I'm telling my wife that Chuck Norris is coming over to remove
the rust. The rust then quickly leaves on it's own.