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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. The top is made from a
recycled piece of 3/4" ply. I sanded it good and got a good flat surface. My plan is to have a router insert at one end. Typically, a work table like this would get no finish, or at most a few coats of wipe on poly. Since this is recycled ply which was previously painted (flat black), I am going to finish it, preferably white. I have 3 coats of Kilz on it now which has been sanded between coats to give a good flat even surface. My initial thought is to just slap 2 coats of semi-gloss latex (I have interior on hand) and recoat when necessary. But, it never hurts to ask. What would y'all topcoat it with? It there something that is (both cost effective) and super tough? FWIW, it is in a covered but unheated space. Thanks in advance. Ed |
#2
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Outfeed table finish
Ed Edelenbos wrote:
So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. The top is made from a recycled piece of 3/4" ply. I sanded it good and got a good flat surface. My plan is to have a router insert at one end. Typically, a work table like this would get no finish, or at most a few coats of wipe on poly. Since this is recycled ply which was previously painted (flat black), I am going to finish it, preferably white. I have 3 coats of Kilz on it now which has been sanded between coats to give a good flat even surface. My initial thought is to just slap 2 coats of semi-gloss latex (I have interior on hand) and recoat when necessary. But, it never hurts to ask. What would y'all topcoat it with? It there something that is (both cost effective) and super tough? FWIW, it is in a covered but unheated space. Thanks in advance. Ed Poly. Or most anything except latex. -- |
#3
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Outfeed table finish
Ed Edelenbos wrote:
So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. What would y'all topcoat it with? Laminate. I got some free scraps from a local custom counter shop. Works great. If you insist on brushing something, I'd use poly and then wax it to make it slick. Chris |
#4
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Outfeed table finish
Any raw paint is likely gona rub off on the wood occasionally. You
could poly over the paint or wax over the paint On Nov 11, 1:52*pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote: So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. *The top is made from a recycled piece of 3/4" ply. *I sanded it good and got a good flat surface. My plan is to have a router insert at one end. *Typically, a work table like this would get no finish, or at most a few coats of wipe on poly. *Since this is recycled ply which was previously painted (flat black), I am going to finish it, preferably white. *I have 3 coats of Kilz on it now which has been sanded between coats to give a good flat even surface. *My initial thought is to just slap 2 coats of semi-gloss latex (I have interior on hand) and recoat when necessary. *But, it never hurts to ask. *What would y'all topcoat it with? *It there something that is (both cost effective) and super tough? *FWIW, it is in a covered but unheated space. Thanks in advance. Ed |
#5
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Outfeed table finish
I use hardboard for just about everything from outfeed tables, to
sacrificial table tops for the router or radial arm saw, to jigs and fences, to patterns and prototypes. The smooth side is very smooth and the stuff is dirt cheap. It's the duct tape of sheet goods. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#6
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Outfeed table finish
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... I use hardboard for just about everything from outfeed tables, to sacrificial table tops for the router or radial arm saw, to jigs and fences, to patterns and prototypes. The smooth side is very smooth and the stuff is dirt cheap. It's the duct tape of sheet goods. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply Thanks all. Some decisions for me to make. Ed |
#7
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Outfeed table finish
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message ... So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. The top is made from a recycled piece of 3/4" ply. I sanded it good and got a good flat surface. My plan is to have a router insert at one end. Typically, a work table like this would get no finish, or at most a few coats of wipe on poly. Since this is recycled ply which was previously painted (flat black), I am going to finish it, preferably white. I have 3 coats of Kilz on it now which has been sanded between coats to give a good flat even surface. My initial thought is to just slap 2 coats of semi-gloss latex (I have interior on hand) and recoat when necessary. But, it never hurts to ask. What would y'all topcoat it with? It there something that is (both cost effective) and super tough? FWIW, it is in a covered but unheated space. Thanks in advance. Ed Mine is laminate. Never a problem, wipes off easily.. |
#8
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Outfeed table finish
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#9
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Outfeed table finish
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... Good suggestion! |
#10
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Outfeed table finish
"Chris Friesen" wrote in message ... Ed Edelenbos wrote: So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. What would y'all topcoat it with? Laminate. I got some free scraps from a local custom counter shop. Works great. Ditto. I used iron on melamine laminate on mine. Didn't even screw up the iron. -- Mortimer Schnerd, RN mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com |
#11
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Outfeed table finish
On Nov 11, 4:49*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
I use hardboard for just about everything from outfeed tables, to sacrificial table tops for the router or radial arm saw, to jigs and fences, to patterns and prototypes. The smooth side is very smooth and the stuff is dirt cheap. It's the duct tape of sheet goods. *:-) I was using scrap pieces of laminate but as Mike said - hardboard worked out great for me. I put the shiny side up, did about 3 coats of Minwax paste wax, and buffed the heck out of it. I actually bought an electric car buffer from Harbor Freight for $19.95 and used it only for my shop. No residue and I had that same piece of hardwood over my 3/4" plywood top for over 5 years until I closed down my shop. I attached the hardwood to the ply using Titebond II wood glue and treated it like a laminate so I never had a nail or screw hole in it. Can't go wrong and it is very inexpensive (dirt cheap is really the right words.) Jimmy Mac aka Jummy |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
I was using scrap pieces of laminate but as Mike said - hardboard
worked out great for me. I put the shiny side up, did about 3 coats of Minwax paste wax, and buffed the heck out of it. I actually bought an electric car buffer from Harbor Freight for $19.95 and used it only for my shop. No residue and I had that same piece of hardwood over my 3/4" plywood top for over 5 years until I closed down my shop. I attached the hardwood to the ply using Titebond II wood glue and treated it like a laminate so I never had a nail or screw hole in it. Can't go wrong and it is very inexpensive (dirt cheap is really the right words.) Jimmy Mac aka Jummy I even think the wax is overkill. Have you even A/B'd pieces with and without the wax? (not ball-busting, I'm actually curious) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 16:52:15 -0500, "Ed Edelenbos"
wrote: So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. The top is made from a recycled piece of 3/4" ply. I sanded it good and got a good flat surface. My plan is to have a router insert at one end. Typically, a work table like this would get no finish, or at most a few coats of wipe on poly. Since this is recycled ply which was previously painted (flat black), I am going to finish it, preferably white. I have 3 coats of Kilz on it now which has been sanded between coats to give a good flat even surface. My initial thought is to just slap 2 coats of semi-gloss latex (I have interior on hand) and recoat when necessary. But, it never hurts to ask. What would y'all topcoat it with? It there something that is (both cost effective) and super tough? FWIW, it is in a covered but unheated space. Thanks in advance. Ed I used plastic laminate on my large router table top and would consider using it again on an outfeed table. |
#14
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Outfeed table finish
Thanks Mike and Jimmy, hardboard, what a great idea.
I am just getting ready to build a new 4 x 8 shp table. I figured I'd put 3/4 MDF on top of a simple torsion box type frame. I thought maybe a second sheet of 1/2 mdf as the sacrificial surface but they don't last long the way I work. After scraping of glue a few times the flat surface starts to suffer. Hardboard is a great idea. I'll be posting another thread looking for folks work table design ideas. On Nov 12, 7:16*am, Jimmy Mac wrote: On Nov 11, 4:49*pm, -MIKE- wrote: I use hardboard for just about everything from outfeed tables, to sacrificial table tops for the router or radial arm saw, to jigs and fences, to patterns and prototypes. The smooth side is very smooth and the stuff is dirt cheap. It's the duct tape of sheet goods. *:-) I was using scrap pieces of laminate but as Mike said - hardboard worked out great for me. *I put the shiny side up, did about 3 coats of Minwax paste wax, and buffed the heck out of it. *I actually bought an electric car buffer from Harbor Freight for $19.95 and used it only for my shop. *No residue and I had that same piece of hardwood over my 3/4" plywood top for over 5 years until I closed down my shop. *I attached the hardwood to the ply using Titebond II wood glue and treated it like a laminate so I never had a nail or screw hole in it. Can't go wrong and it is very inexpensive (dirt cheap is really the right words.) Jimmy Mac aka Jummy |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I am just getting ready to build a new 4 x 8 shp table. I figured I'd put 3/4 MDF on top of a simple torsion box type frame. I thought maybe a second sheet of 1/2 mdf as the sacrificial surface but they don't last long the way I work. After scraping of glue a few times the flat surface starts to suffer. Hardboard is a great idea. Build your top as a torsion box /w/ 3/4 MDF top surface, (and as an option, 1/4 ply bottom surface), then hold the 1/4 hardboard in place with some double back tape at the corners and mid point on the 8 ft edge. Makes replacement a lot easier. Lew |
#16
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Outfeed table finish
On Nov 12, 11:09*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote: I am just getting ready to build a new 4 x 8 shp table. I figured I'd put 3/4 MDF on top of a simple torsion box type frame. I thought maybe a second sheet of 1/2 mdf as the sacrificial surface but they don't last long the way I work. After scraping of glue a few times the flat surface starts to suffer. Hardboard is a great idea. Build your top as a torsion box /w/ 3/4 MDF top surface, (and as an option, 1/4 ply bottom surface), then hold the 1/4 hardboard in place with some double back tape at the corners and mid point on the 8 ft edge. Makes replacement a lot easier. Lew Oh sure Lew - make it easy! LOL! Hope all is good in your camp pardner . . . it's been a while! Jummy |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
I used plastic laminate on my large router table top and would consider using it again on an outfeed table. Something else that I use for everything are 1/2" sheets of 2-sided Melamine. They are probably cheaper than plastic laminate, itself. Whenever I go to the specialty plywood suppliers to get nice Baltic or hardwood veneer sheets, I get a couple sheets of Melamine to sandwich the nice plywood for travel in the minivan. I lay one of the Melamines down on the van floor, and the nice plywood slides on top very freely. Then another Melamine on top to protect the nice sheets from whatever other materials I have to haul. I end up using the Melamine sheets for assembly tables or outfeeds or whatever, just like the hardboard, but with some structural strength. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
I am just getting ready to build a new 4 x 8 shp table. I figured I'd
put 3/4 MDF on top of a simple torsion box type frame. I thought maybe a second sheet of 1/2 mdf as the sacrificial surface but they don't last long the way I work. After scraping of glue a few times the flat surface starts to suffer. Hardboard is a great idea. See my follow-up about 4x8 sheets of Melamine. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
"Jimmy Mac" wrote:
Oh sure Lew - make it easy! LOL! Hope all is good in your camp pardner . . . it's been a while! You got that right. It's "steady as she goes" around here. Hope it is same on your end. Lew |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
Chris Friesen wrote:
Ed Edelenbos wrote: So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. What would y'all topcoat it with? Laminate. I got some free scraps from a local custom counter shop. Works great. If you insist on brushing something, I'd use poly and then wax it to make it slick. Chris Ditto (not on an outfeed table, but a built in router table). Used a sheet of approximate size and contact cement to set it in place and then a router with a flush trim bit to cleanup the excess. That was version one. Version two ... I just used a piece of that prelaminated shelving material. Never did do anything to the outfeed table other than sand it smooth ... the sawdust seems to be an ample lubricant. Pix at: http://www.tundraware.com/Woodworking/TableSaw/ -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tim Daneliuk PGP Key: http://www.tundraware.com/PGP/ |
#21
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Outfeed table finish
On Wed, 12 Nov 2008 13:27:46 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote: I used plastic laminate on my large router table top and would consider using it again on an outfeed table. Something else that I use for everything are 1/2" sheets of 2-sided Melamine. They are probably cheaper than plastic laminate, itself. ....marginally...melamine is the same "plastic" material that composes most laminates...it's just way thinner. You'll still pay a bit for that sheet of melamine. You can pick up a sheet of vertical laminate at Lowes for 35 or 40 bux and enjoy an almost bulletproof surface. Still, the melamine would work well... Whenever I go to the specialty plywood suppliers to get nice Baltic or hardwood veneer sheets, I get a couple sheets of Melamine to sandwich the nice plywood for travel in the minivan. I lay one of the Melamines down on the van floor, and the nice plywood slides on top very freely. Then another Melamine on top to protect the nice sheets from whatever other materials I have to haul. ....you ever have to stop real quick? LOL... I end up using the Melamine sheets for assembly tables or outfeeds or whatever, just like the hardboard, but with some structural strength. ....stuff *is* a good solution. Mine, however, is the laminate option. cg |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
On Nov 11, 4:52 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:
So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. The top is made from a recycled piece of 3/4" ply. I sanded it good and got a good flat surface. My plan is to have a router insert at one end. Typically, a work table like this would get no finish, or at most a few coats of wipe on poly. Since this is recycled ply which was previously painted (flat black), I am going to finish it, preferably white. I have 3 coats of Kilz on it now which has been sanded between coats to give a good flat even surface. My initial thought is to just slap 2 coats of semi-gloss latex (I have interior on hand) and recoat when necessary. But, it never hurts to ask. What would y'all topcoat it with? It there something that is (both cost effective) and super tough? FWIW, it is in a covered but unheated space. Thanks in advance. Ed I'm a little surprised that no one has mentioned this: Isn't 3/4 ply a little light for a router table? Depending on the router, wouldn't it sag over time (depending on the size of the table, of course shelly |
#23
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Outfeed table finish
If you can find it, buy a sheet of melamine and make
your self a torsion box topped off with the melamine. Your next choice is a torsion box covered with 1/2" mdf and covered in laminate from the home center. Here is a picture of that arrangement http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb...ID-638867.html http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb...ID-639331.html That outfeed allows a FULL sheet of plywood to be on the table top after the cut. The torsion box is made from 3/4" shop grade birch plywood. That is skinned over with 1/2" mdf and finished off with generic white laminate. I also made a drop down section with a piano hinge so the table isn't so long for the entire time. |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
wrote in message ... On Nov 11, 4:52 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote: So I've made an outfeed table for my tablesaw. The top is made from a recycled piece of 3/4" ply. I sanded it good and got a good flat surface. My plan is to have a router insert at one end. Typically, a work table like this would get no finish, or at most a few coats of wipe on poly. Since this is recycled ply which was previously painted (flat black), I am going to finish it, preferably white. I have 3 coats of Kilz on it now which has been sanded between coats to give a good flat even surface. My initial thought is to just slap 2 coats of semi-gloss latex (I have interior on hand) and recoat when necessary. But, it never hurts to ask. What would y'all topcoat it with? It there something that is (both cost effective) and super tough? FWIW, it is in a covered but unheated space. Thanks in advance. Ed I'm a little surprised that no one has mentioned this: Isn't 3/4 ply a little light for a router table? Depending on the router, wouldn't it sag over time (depending on the size of the table, of course shelly I have the underside supported pretty well. The table is 3'x4' and there is 2by support in the middle of each. If I remember correctly, where the router is going is 20" by 14". I don't think it'll sag. I have to say this is a danged neighborly group. Ed |
#25
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Outfeed table finish
Charlie Groh wrote:
I used plastic laminate on my large router table top and would consider using it again on an outfeed table. Something else that I use for everything are 1/2" sheets of 2-sided Melamine. They are probably cheaper than plastic laminate, itself. ...marginally...melamine is the same "plastic" material that composes most laminates...it's just way thinner. You'll still pay a bit for that sheet of melamine. You can pick up a sheet of vertical laminate at Lowes for 35 or 40 bux and enjoy an almost bulletproof surface. Still, the melamine would work well... Another reason I like it is that it's done, I don't have to glue it down. I like to build stuff. I don't like to build other stuff, in order to build stuff. (Actually, I do, but you get the point.) I know what you mean about the thinness, but I consider it disposable. I don't want to have to baby my work surfaces. I even built my new router top out of the stuff. If I want to screw down something to the top, I don't care... when it gets too dinged up, I cut out another piece and replace it. Whenever I go to the specialty plywood suppliers to get nice Baltic or hardwood veneer sheets, I get a couple sheets of Melamine to sandwich the nice plywood for travel in the minivan. I lay one of the Melamines down on the van floor, and the nice plywood slides on top very freely. Then another Melamine on top to protect the nice sheets from whatever other materials I have to haul. ...you ever have to stop real quick? LOL... Funny, when they were designing this Caravan, it's like someone actually considered that one might use a van to do what a van is supposed to do. It fits 4X8 perfectly with no wiggle room. You should see how much lumber I've carried on the luggage rack. :-) That's another thing, the rack it just high enough off the roof pads, to *sqeeze* 2x material underneath, nice and tight. But that's not why you called. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#26
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Outfeed table finish
I'm a little surprised that no one has mentioned this: Isn't 3/4 ply a
little light for a router table? Depending on the router, wouldn't it sag over time (depending on the size of the table, of course shelly On my last table, I used strongbacks, made from the same plywood. Jointed straight and pocket screwed/glued to the bottom. Strategically placed so as to not get in the way, they worked well. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Outfeed table finish
Pat Barber wrote:
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb...ID-639331.html That outfeed allows a FULL sheet of plywood to be on the table top after the cut. The torsion box is made from 3/4" shop grade birch plywood. That is skinned over with 1/2" mdf and finished off with generic white laminate. I also made a drop down section with a piano hinge so the table isn't so long for the entire time. I love the way that all folds up, Pat. Very nice! -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
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