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Default Waxing table surface

We have a large antique dining room table that I'd like to protect
with wax. The base finish is shellac.

I've tried a variety of paste waxes over the years (Minwax, Butchers,
etc.) but none give a really nice finish. Ususlly you can see swirls
where the wax was applied. I've tried waiting the prescribed time (10
minutes or so) and tried wiping off immediately. I've tried small
areas at a time as well as large areas. Nothing gives me the results
I think the table deserves.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Default Waxing table surface


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...
We have a large antique dining room table that I'd like to protect
with wax. The base finish is shellac.

I've tried a variety of paste waxes over the years (Minwax, Butchers,
etc.) but none give a really nice finish. Ususlly you can see swirls
where the wax was applied. I've tried waiting the prescribed time (10
minutes or so) and tried wiping off immediately. I've tried small
areas at a time as well as large areas. Nothing gives me the results
I think the table deserves.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Wax "is not" going to protect the finish. It will make it shine.


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Default Waxing table surface

On Nov 7, 6:48*am, wrote:
We have a large antique dining room table that I'd like to protect
with wax. *The base finish is shellac.

I've tried a variety of paste waxes over the years (Minwax, Butchers,
etc.) but none give a really nice finish. *Ususlly you can see swirls
where the wax was applied. *I've tried waiting the prescribed time (10
minutes or so) and tried wiping off immediately. *I've tried small
areas at a time as well as large areas. *Nothing gives me the results
I think the table deserves.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


I've used the same products and always return to Minwax. If your
shellac finish is clean and smooth, use a bulky piece of cheesecloth
so you can distribute the wax evenly. I apply it as thin as possible
- practically a film. You can always reapply a second coat and I
usually do after buffing. The secret I've found is after the wax has
"set up" buff it with a micro fiber towel and be sure to turn the
towel constantly. The idea is to remove the wax. If you don't
continue to turn your polishing rag, you will continue to rub the
residual wax into the surface. When I was building furniture full
time, I used an electric car buffer with a lambs wool pad. I would
then use the microfiber for final finish. Remember that the wax will
only make the furniture shine. It will help retard water spots, but
if a wet glass is left on the surface, it will result in a white
ring. This is easily removed with another coat of wax. Hope this
helps.

Jimmy Mac aka: Jummy


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Default Waxing table surface

Swirls probably mean too much wax and not buffing correctly.

1. Wipe surface clean with naptha to remove all existing wax

2. Get some Briwax of appropriate color. Neutral is always OK.

3. Using 0000 steel wool or a maroon synthetic pad and in light handed
swirling motion do a square foot at a time. Just dab a little wax on
at at time. The Briwax will be wet with naptha and you want that
wetness but it dries in a few seconds. Probably only a 1/4 tsp
distributed on the pad to get started. I actually keep a can of naptha
around to wet the pad without adding wax.

4. After 3 or 4 patches stop and wait for them all to get hazy. It
might take zero time or maybe another 2 or 3 minutes. I would never
leave wax on more than just a few minutes before I start to buff. Once
it totally hardens it is just a bitch to get it all to melt and smooth
out.

5. Buff like hell with a terry cloth towel folded into a hard pad. You
need to generate heat. Fast and inline with the grain to avoid swirls.

6. Move on to the next area. try foe zero or minimal overlap and buff
in the edges where the new patch meets the old.

You really want to minimize the amount of wax. At first it is
diffiicult to have enough on the pad without getting too much on the
table. Once you have done a few spots then just one little additional
dob on the pad for each sq foot. If you see too much wax in one spot,
go over it again with some wet wax on the pad to let the solvent break
it down and the pad pick it back up.

Some folks put a gob of wax inside a few layers of cloth and then wipe
it on that way but I haven't mastered.

On Nov 7, 6:48*am, wrote:
We have a large antique dining room table that I'd like to protect
with wax. *The base finish is shellac.

I've tried a variety of paste waxes over the years (Minwax, Butchers,
etc.) but none give a really nice finish. *Ususlly you can see swirls
where the wax was applied. *I've tried waiting the prescribed time (10
minutes or so) and tried wiping off immediately. *I've tried small
areas at a time as well as large areas. *Nothing gives me the results
I think the table deserves.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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