All you electric motor heads out the help!

I have a delta 28-280 bandsaw with a 1hp motor and a timberwolf 1/2" 3
tpi blade. I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke escaping
from the cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the ports on
the motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the motor). I
gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No more smoke but
now a stench resembling burnt insulation. At no time did the motor
casing feel hot to the touch.

Thought I would impose on some experts before I started dismantling
stuff. TIA.
twitch,
jo4hn

"jo4hn" wrote:

All you electric motor heads out the help!

I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke escaping from the
cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the ports on the
motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the motor). I
gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No more smoke
but now a stench resembling burnt insulation.

If you are smelling burnt insulation, it is only a matter of time
before the motor is history.

If you load the motor to full capacity, expect motor to die quickly.

Sounds like you either don't have an overload relay or it is
defective.

Time to open the piggy bank

Lew



Lew

On Wed, 15 Oct 2008 18:48:29 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

If you load the motor to full capacity, expect motor to die quickly.

I suppose that depends on the definition of "full capacity". I would
not expect a continuous duty motor rated at "X" HP to die quickly if
used to drive an "X" HP load.

Personally, I'd change that statement slightly to read "If you load
the motor beyond its service rating, expect the motor to die quickly".

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

jo4hn wrote:
All you electric motor heads out the help!

I have a delta 28-280 bandsaw with a 1hp motor and a timberwolf 1/2" 3
tpi blade. I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke escaping
from the cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the ports on
the motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the motor). I
gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No more smoke but
now a stench resembling burnt insulation. At no time did the motor
casing feel hot to the touch.

Thought I would impose on some experts before I started dismantling
stuff. TIA.
twitch,
jo4hn

The first thing I'd check is to see if you melted the wax out of the
start capacitor. If the motor overheats it's usually the first thing
that happens and it does stink.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Nova" wrote in message
...
jo4hn wrote:
All you electric motor heads out the help!

I have a delta 28-280 bandsaw with a 1hp motor and a timberwolf 1/2" 3
tpi blade. I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke escaping
from the cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the ports on
the motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the motor). I
gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No more smoke but
now a stench resembling burnt insulation. At no time did the motor
casing feel hot to the touch.

Thought I would impose on some experts before I started dismantling
stuff. TIA.
twitch,
jo4hn

The first thing I'd check is to see if you melted the wax out of the start
capacitor. If the motor overheats it's usually the first thing that
happens and it does stink.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Will the motor still start even though the start capacitor has gotten too
hot?
Jim

Jim wrote:


The first thing I'd check is to see if you melted the wax out of the start
capacitor. If the motor overheats it's usually the first thing that
happens and it does stink.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA


Will the motor still start even though the start capacitor has gotten too
hot?
Jim



Possibly. If it's the case it depends on how bad the capacitor got fried.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Nova wrote:
Jim wrote:


The first thing I'd check is to see if you melted the wax out of the
start capacitor. If the motor overheats it's usually the first thing
that happens and it does stink.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA


Will the motor still start even though the start capacitor has gotten
too hot?
Jim


Possibly. If it's the case it depends on how bad the capacitor got fried.

In this case, it starts right up.

Just for the heck of it, I have been looking for 1hp 1ph 1725 motors.
Not that many around and Leeson seems to have a bad reputation.
McMaster-Carr seems to be a good vendor. Any other ideas out there?

j4

"jo4hn" wrote:

Just for the heck of it, I have been looking for 1hp 1ph 1725
motors. Not that many around and Leeson seems to have a bad
reputation. McMaster-Carr seems to be a good vendor. Any other
ideas out there?

Grainger.

Dayton is Grainger in house line.

1HP/1725/56H/TEFC/Class B/SF=1.15/115/208/230

6K562 = Man
6K640 = Auto

Lew

An Update

Manual reset overloads are used for machine tools.

Auto reset overloads are normally used on special applications where
auto restart is not a problem such as exhaust fans, sump pumps, etc.

................................................. .....................
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"jo4hn" wrote:

Just for the heck of it, I have been looking for 1hp 1ph 1725
motors. Not that many around and Leeson seems to have a bad
reputation. McMaster-Carr seems to be a good vendor. Any other
ideas out there?

Grainger.

Dayton is Grainger in house line.

1HP/1725/56H/TEFC/Class B/SF=1.15/115/208/230

6K562 = Man
6K640 = Auto

Lew

jo4hn wrote:
All you electric motor heads out the help!

I have a delta 28-280 bandsaw with a 1hp motor and a timberwolf 1/2" 3
tpi blade. I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke escaping
from the cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the ports on
the motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the motor). I
gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No more smoke but
now a stench resembling burnt insulation. At no time did the motor
casing feel hot to the touch.

Thought I would impose on some experts before I started dismantling
stuff. TIA.
twitch,
jo4hn

Dayton, Baldor, etc. have good reps. Anybody have experience with
Marathon? Leeson? others? TIA

I tried the cheep way out when mine died It never worked right and
the better motor shops didn't want to touch it Stick with a baldor or
dayton as others have said The can be pricy though.

On Thu, 16 Oct 2008 09:33:42 -0700, jo4hn
wrote:

Leeson

Have had a Leeson 5HP on my cyclone for a couple of years now. It's
given me no reason to complain.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

jo4hn wrote:
All you electric motor heads out the help!

I have a delta 28-280 bandsaw with a 1hp motor and a timberwolf 1/2" 3
tpi blade. I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke escaping
from the cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the ports on
the motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the motor). I
gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No more smoke but
now a stench resembling burnt insulation. At no time did the motor
casing feel hot to the touch.

Thought I would impose on some experts before I started dismantling
stuff. TIA.
twitch,
jo4hn

Got the motor out and noticed a lot of sticky goop (whoa! technical
term!) oozing out from the capacitor cover. Sure enough, the cap lost
its goop (exgoopuinated?). Some of it got into the innards which is
what caused the smoke and stench. Sent an email off to the manufacturer
(Aerovox Corp) to see what can be done if anything. Will keep you posted.
dang,
jo4hn

"jo4hn" wrote:

Got the motor out and noticed a lot of sticky goop (whoa! technical
term!) oozing out from the capacitor cover. Sure enough, the cap
lost its goop (exgoopuinated?). Some of it got into the innards
which is what caused the smoke and stench. Sent an email off to the
manufacturer (Aerovox Corp) to see what can be done if anything.

Depending on age, that "goop" could contain PCBs, definitely a hazmat
item.

(It's been banned for almost 30 years)

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"jo4hn" wrote:

Got the motor out and noticed a lot of sticky goop (whoa! technical
term!) oozing out from the capacitor cover. Sure enough, the cap
lost its goop (exgoopuinated?). Some of it got into the innards
which is what caused the smoke and stench. Sent an email off to the
manufacturer (Aerovox Corp) to see what can be done if anything.

Depending on age, that "goop" could contain PCBs, definitely a hazmat
item.

(It's been banned for almost 30 years)

Lew


According to their website, it's made from soybeans. Honest. I didn't
look for a complete list of ingredients for this stuff. It is a clear,
very sticky substance that requires mineral spirits to clean up. And
the bandsaw and presumably the motor are maybe 10 years old.

j4

"jo4hn" wrote:

According to their website, it's made from soybeans. Honest. I
didn't look for a complete list of ingredients for this stuff. It
is a clear, very sticky substance that requires mineral spirits to
clean up. And the bandsaw and presumably the motor are maybe 10
years old.


Sounds like you are good to go.

The electrical industry has made great efforts to eliminate PCBs
starting in the mid '70s.

The gov't offered some incentivesgrin

Lew

jo4hn wrote:
jo4hn wrote:

All you electric motor heads out the help!

I have a delta 28-280 bandsaw with a 1hp motor and a timberwolf 1/2" 3
tpi blade. I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke
escaping from the cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the
ports on the motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the
motor). I gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No
more smoke but now a stench resembling burnt insulation. At no time
did the motor casing feel hot to the touch.

Thought I would impose on some experts before I started dismantling
stuff. TIA.
twitch,
jo4hn


Got the motor out and noticed a lot of sticky goop (whoa! technical
term!) oozing out from the capacitor cover. Sure enough, the cap lost
its goop (exgoopuinated?). Some of it got into the innards which is
what caused the smoke and stench. Sent an email off to the manufacturer
(Aerovox Corp) to see what can be done if anything. Will keep you posted.
dang,
jo4hn

It's what I figured as I've toasted a few.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Thu, 16 Oct 2008 14:35:49 -0700, jo4hn
wrote:

Got the motor out and noticed a lot of sticky goop (whoa! technical
term!) oozing out from the capacitor cover. Sure enough, the cap lost
its goop (exgoopuinated?). Some of it got into the innards which is
what caused the smoke and stench. Sent an email off to the manufacturer
(Aerovox Corp) to see what can be done if anything. Will keep you posted.


If the voltage and capacity printed on the case of the defunct
capacitor is legible you should be able to get a replacement locally
for (guessing) under $10. It's been a while since I bought a start
capacitor, but as I recall they are fairly inexpensive. They come in
many different physical sizes and shapes, so you'll need to match
physical size as well as electrical ratings.

If you decide to replace the cap yourself, you should be sure the
centrifugal switch that cuts the capacitor in and out of the circuit
is functional. That switch operates to take the capacitor off line
when the motor reaches about 75% (IIRC) of rated RPM. Since the start
capacitor is not rated for continuous duty, if the switch doesn't
operate, a minute or so after the motor starts, you'll need to replace
the capacitor again.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA