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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
Hi folks,
After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question that I have't seen: I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I used the following grits: 100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues; 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a definitive answer (if there is one) 2. What grits do I start at when resharpening? 3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the chise? thx in advance, shelly |
#3
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
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#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
wrote in message ... Hi folks, After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question that I have't seen: I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I used the following grits: 100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues; Idealy you can stop with the grit that literally leaves you with a mirror finish. The mirror finish provides an ultra slick surface that aids in cutting and cuts down on friction. 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a definitive answer (if there is one) The way you mentioned and I gently feel the edge with my thumb. If it still sorta scares me I know, well you know, it is scary sharp. It should slice the corner of of a piece of oak with little effort on your part, no hammer or mallot needed. 2. What grits do I start at when resharpening? If you have nicks you obviousely need to use a more coarse grit but if you simply need to retouch try the most fine and see how it works out for you . You will develope a sense of which to use based on the condition of the blade. 3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the chise? I typically can redo the microbevel 10 or so times before needing to regrind. The microbevel eventually becomes too blunt and cutting will suffer. Dont let the chisel get too dull between sharpenings. Depending on how often you redo the microbevel will determine how many you can get away with before a regrind. thx in advance, shelly |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
On Sep 8, 4:40*pm, wrote:
1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a definitive answer (if there is one) You can inpsect it under magnification if you want. (Do this b4 use too, so you'll have something to compare). But I just wait until it's not performing as I'd like it. A quick test is to lightly push the edge into your fingernail at about a 45d angle. If it "sticks" then it's still really sharp. If it skates, not so much. 2. What grits do I start at when resharpening? For the lapping of the back you always use the highest grit to which you initially lapped it. (I take mine to 2000 on paper). If you haven't really nicked the blade or really dulled it you can just retouch the microbevel with 2000 a few times. Once you have to rehone the primary bevel, I'd drop back to 400 to start. Maybe lower if it feels like it's taking forever. 3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the chise? It's a bit of a personal preference, but I pretty much just hone the microbevel with my highest grit, and when it gets to be taking "too long" to sharpen it that way, or it gets to be say 3-4mm wide I rehone the primary. Once you get comfortable with using paper, you should give waterstones a try. I still do my initial lapping on paper, but now I use Norton stones and finish with a Shapton 12,000 grit. Very, very sharp, and they seem to stay sharp for longer. JP |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
Idealy you can stop with the grit that literally leaves you with a mirror finish. The mirror finish provides an ultra slick surface that aids in cutting and cuts down on friction. got them that good! I can also shave hairs, although I notice a slight skin scrape after (duh!) 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a definitive answer (if there is one) The way you mentioned and I gently feel the edge with my thumb. If it still sorta scares me I know, well you know, it is scary sharp. It should slice the corner of of a piece of oak with little effort on your part, no hammer or mallot needed. good info thx shelly |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
You can inpsect it under magnification if you want. (Do this b4 use too, so you'll have something to compare). I looked at the sharpening process after every grit with a 10x loupe... it was fascinating - I could really see the wire edge, and even little bits of steel getting smaller and smaller For the lapping of the back you always use the highest grit to which you initially lapped it. (I take mine to 2000 on paper). I didn't go ll the way. Is it a big deal? I guess I can wiat intul I have to resharpen. Once you get comfortable with using paper, you should give waterstones a try. I still do my initial lapping on paper, but now I use Norton stones and finish with a Shapton 12,000 grit. Very, very sharp, and they seem to stay sharp for longer. rant on sigh.... had several abortive attempts before the current success... I used the verita MKII guide (a nice piece of equipment, that). I told myself that if I still couldn't sharpen, I would get the work sharp system. Now you tell me that I should go for waterstones. Just tell me, does it ever end rant off what grit stones do you use? thanks again shelly JP |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
I'm a lawyer; I've never seen a grit sued yet.
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#9
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
"Just Wondering" wrote in message ... I'm a lawyer; I've never seen a grit sued yet. Thought about it a couple of times, but then I tried cheese grits and they are not so bad. I figured all grits should not suffer because of the icky taste of a few. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
"Frank Boettcher" wrote If you're cut after sharpening, I would just sue the lot of them. Look for the one with the deep pockets. Sorry, I just couldn't resist. :~) Actually, you barely beat me to it! -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 8/18/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#11
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
When you suddenly spin around in your shop and "you don't split an atom" while holding your chisel. Here is additional info on grits: http://www.quakergrits.com/QG_Products/products.htm http://woodworkstuff.net/scary.html wrote: I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
I've been watching this "sharpening" thread with more than casual
interest. I've been hoping someone would suggest a *minimum* assortment of grits for sharpening. I would like to use the scary sharp system but I'm not ready to spend on an assortment of grits what I could spend a mechanical system. So...........how "few" grits could I get by with and still get the job done? Max |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
On Sep 9, 3:29 pm, "Max" wrote:
I've been watching this "sharpening" thread with more than casual interest. I've been hoping someone would suggest a *minimum* assortment of grits for sharpening. I would like to use the scary sharp system but I'm not ready to spend on an assortment of grits what I could spend a mechanical system. So...........how "few" grits could I get by with and still get the job done? Max based on what I've read and done, the point is to not skip grits. Each grit has to remove the scratches from the previous one, so if you go from, say, 220 to 400, you have to work harder with the 400, then with 220, 320, and then 400.. If you had too, I would guess that you could skip almost every other grit: 100, 220, 400, 800, 1200, 2000 shelly |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
This is precisely what's wrong with this country today. If you are not getting the results you want, it is not the fault of the grits themselves and you have no business suing them. ;-) -- FF |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
On Sep 9, 3:29*pm, "Max" wrote:
I've been watching this "sharpening" thread with more than casual interest. I've been hoping someone would suggest a *minimum* assortment of grits for sharpening. I would like to use the scary sharp system but I'm not ready to spend on an assortment of grits what I could spend a mechanical system. So...........how "few" grits could I get by with and still get the job done? It's theoretically possible to just use the finest grit to which you wish to sharpen. It'll just take a while, especially if you're lapping the back of a cheap chisel for the first time. I think you could get by with 220, 400, 1000 and 2000. You'll want the most of 220 though. Paper goes quick in the bigger grits. JP |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
"Jay Pique" wrote in message ... On Sep 9, 3:29 pm, "Max" wrote: I've been watching this "sharpening" thread with more than casual interest. I've been hoping someone would suggest a *minimum* assortment of grits for sharpening. I would like to use the scary sharp system but I'm not ready to spend on an assortment of grits what I could spend a mechanical system. So...........how "few" grits could I get by with and still get the job done? It's theoretically possible to just use the finest grit to which you wish to sharpen. It'll just take a while, especially if you're lapping the back of a cheap chisel for the first time. I think you could get by with 220, 400, 1000 and 2000. You'll want the most of 220 though. Paper goes quick in the bigger grits. JP I hear you on the theory. If I use a grinder to take out any nicks (which I currently do) I should be able to manage with the grits you mention. I use plenty of 220 and buy it in packs. I have 400 and 600 (wet or dry) for auto work so that's no problem. So if I buy some 1000 and 2000, I should be able to manage with that. Much thanks. Max |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
"Max" wrote: I hear you on the theory. If I use a grinder to take out any nicks (which I currently do) I should be able to manage with the grits you mention. I use plenty of 220 and buy it in packs. I have 400 and 600 (wet or dry) for auto work so that's no problem. So if I buy some 1000 and 2000, I should be able to manage with that. SFWIW: Got a piece of glass plate about 12x12x1/2 (Actually two 1/4 plates glued together), a can of 77 spray adhesive and a few sheets of wet/dry paper, 100 thru 2000 grit. Cut strips about 2" wide x 8"-9" long Chisels are sharp and still working on first purchase of W/D. Lew |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Max" wrote: I hear you on the theory. If I use a grinder to take out any nicks (which I currently do) I should be able to manage with the grits you mention. I use plenty of 220 and buy it in packs. I have 400 and 600 (wet or dry) for auto work so that's no problem. So if I buy some 1000 and 2000, I should be able to manage with that. SFWIW: Got a piece of glass plate about 12x12x1/2 (Actually two 1/4 plates glued together), a can of 77 spray adhesive and a few sheets of wet/dry paper, 100 thru 2000 grit. Cut strips about 2" wide x 8"-9" long Chisels are sharp and still working on first purchase of W/D. Lew I have a piece of glass 3/4" thick; its about 14 X 16. It came from a table top (30" X 44") that got broke. It's interesting to learn that I need only a *few* sheets of W/D. I'll give it a go. Max |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
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#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
On Sep 9, 11:08 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Max" wrote: I hear you on the theory. If I use a grinder to take out any nicks (which I currently do) I should be able to manage with the grits you mention. I use plenty of 220 and buy it in packs. I have 400 and 600 (wet or dry) for auto work so that's no problem. So if I buy some 1000 and 2000, I should be able to manage with that. SFWIW: Got a piece of glass plate about 12x12x1/2 (Actually two 1/4 plates glued together), a can of 77 spray adhesive and a few sheets of wet/dry paper, 100 thru 2000 grit. Cut strips about 2" wide x 8"-9" long Chisels are sharp and still working on first purchase of W/D. Lew Originally I tried using strips about 5"x 2"... they weren't long enough. Now I use 2" strips, the length of the sheet. I use either a glass plate (came from rockler w/sanspaper) or a marble(maybe) tile from an oddlot place. the tile cost me $3, and was pretty flat. I hook the end of sandpaper over it, use the other hand to hold the end down, and hone away. I use the glass plate got the finer grits. It is true that you don't use too much of the finer grits. I also use a sandpaper cleaning stick - it makes a big difference. shelly |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
On Sep 10, 3:02 pm, Jim Weisgram
wrote: On Mon, 8 Sep 2008 13:40:25 -0700 (PDT), wrote: Hi folks, After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question that I have't seen: I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I used the following grits: 100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues; 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a definitive answer (if there is one) 2. What grits do I start at when resharpening? 3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the chise? thx in advance, shelly Here's a couple more ways to determine if you have a sharp edge: 1) you should be able to cleanly pare away end grain on softwood. so far, so good... with the chisel that came out the best, I can even do that to oak 2) a sharp edge will not reflect light; if you can see tiny reflecting points of light, it is time to touch up the edge. Also, back of the chisel (some call it the "face") is actually more important than the bevel. It should be dead flat and polished with the same or higher grit than your bevel. only went to 800. time again to experiment thx shelly |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
Sue the ones with the deepest pockets first.
-- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. wrote in message ... Hi folks, After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a question that I have't seen: I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). I used the following grits: 100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, but I don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too long with any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that the chisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues; 1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut as well - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for a definitive answer (if there is one) 2. What grits do I start at when resharpening? 3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface the chise? thx in advance, shelly |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
[...snip...]
1) you should be able to cleanly pare away end grain on softwood. so far, so good... with the chisel that came out the best, I can even do that to oak [...snip...] Actually, the softwood is a better test than a hardwood like oak; if your edge isn't sharp, softwood will just kind of crumble away. The hardwood will stand up better to the not so sharp edge and you can get some kind of shaving. thx shelly |
#24
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what grits to sue when re-sharpening.
On Sep 11, 3:18 pm, Jim Weisgram
wrote: [...snip...] 1) you should be able to cleanly pare away end grain on softwood. so far, so good... with the chisel that came out the best, I can even do that to oak [...snip...] Actually, the softwood is a better test than a hardwood like oak; if your edge isn't sharp, softwood will just kind of crumble away. The hardwood will stand up better to the not so sharp edge and you can get some kind of shaving. thx shelly tried both, worked both times! shelly |
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