Folks -

I would like to make some mods to my bies fence for some of the Uni features
that would be helpful...

Have any of you made a "flip down" fence (for lack of a better description)
for ripping thin stock? Also, I'd like to be able to use a short fence as a
cut off stop w/ the miter guage. I've used scrap and a clamp but I'd like
something better. Do any of you have any recommendations for tricking out a
rip fence? Like Ross Perot says....

Thanks in advance!


John Moorhead
Lakeport CA

On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 06:30:42 GMT, "john moorhead"
wrote:

Folks -

I would like to make some mods to my bies fence for some of the Uni features
that would be helpful...

Have any of you made a "flip down" fence (for lack of a better description)
for ripping thin stock? Also, I'd like to be able to use a short fence as a
cut off stop w/ the miter guage. I've used scrap and a clamp but I'd like
something better. Do any of you have any recommendations for tricking out a
rip fence? Like Ross Perot says....

Thanks in advance!


John Moorhead
Lakeport CA




I've made a few "accessories" for my bies.

for starting crosscuts where I'll need repeatability I made a block
right at 1 inch. held on with a clamp, but I can use the fence measure
(just have to remember to add the inch...)

for tall workpieces I made a high fence. it straddles the bies and has
it's own clamp built in.

sometimes I'll clamp a springboard to the fence as a hold down, though
more common is a featherboard clamped to the table as a hold in.


not sure what you mean by flip down fence....
Bridger

John Moorhead wrote:
Folks -

John,

I would like to make some mods to my bies fence for some of the Uni features
that would be helpful...

Fire away.

Have any of you made a "flip down" fence (for lack of a better description)
for ripping thin stock?

Let's start with the "functionality" of the "flip-down/short
fence/tall fence". The tall fence for all intents and
purposes will be used 99% of the time for the typical
hobbyist wooddorker. The function of the short fence is for
when plastic laminated (Formica) panels are trimmed. As you
know the proper method is to lay up laminate oversize on
your substrate, i.e., laminate hanging over the edges. With
the short fence configured you then run your panel edge
(substrate) against the short fence and let the laminate
(Formica) ride above and below the fence.

Because of the inherent properties of thin stock (it's wily,
twisty, doesn't want to behave) you should always use the
tall fence. Otherwise you run the risk of the material
riding over the top of the fence and spoiling your cut.

Also, I'd like to be able to use a short fence as a cut off stop w/ the miter guage.

This is one of the flaws of the "as designed" Biesemeyer (1)
fence. Why Delta/Biesemeyer doesn't extract it's collective
head from it's collective ass I don't know. Anyway (rant
off) there was once upon a time a Web page devoted to
removing a stock Biesemeyer fence face (Owen Lowe?) and
replacing it with UHMW. In a nut shell, it's no big thing.

The "new" HTC fence incorporates ModEez fasteners to fix
their fence faces and offer spares for anyone wanting to
make a modified fence face. This is a step in the right
direction and can be easily done by any hobbyist wooddorker.
On the other hand, you could also tap the metal tube for
1/4-20 screws and be more or less in the same place.

Do any of you have any recommendations for tricking out a
rip fence?

Check this months Popular Wooddorking. Jim Tolpin has an
article on making modifications.

(1) Despite my rant I do believe Sir William of Biesemeyer
has a seat in Heaven for whenever he needs to use it.

UA100

Unisaw A100 wrote in message . ..
John Moorhead wrote:
Folks -

John,

I would like to make some mods to my bies fence for some of the Uni features
that would be helpful...

Fire away.

Have any of you made a "flip down" fence (for lack of a better description)
for ripping thin stock?

Let's start with the "functionality" of the "flip-down/short
fence/tall fence". The tall fence for all intents and
purposes will be used 99% of the time for the typical
hobbyist wooddorker. The function of the short fence is for
when plastic laminated (Formica) panels are trimmed. As you
know the proper method is to lay up laminate oversize on
your substrate, i.e., laminate hanging over the edges. With
the short fence configured you then run your panel edge
(substrate) against the short fence and let the laminate
(Formica) ride above and below the fence.

Because of the inherent properties of thin stock (it's wily,
twisty, doesn't want to behave) you should always use the
tall fence. Otherwise you run the risk of the material
riding over the top of the fence and spoiling your cut.

Also, I'd like to be able to use a short fence as a cut off stop w/ the miter guage.

This is one of the flaws of the "as designed" Biesemeyer (1)
fence. Why Delta/Biesemeyer doesn't extract it's collective
head from it's collective ass I don't know. Anyway (rant
off) there was once upon a time a Web page devoted to
removing a stock Biesemeyer fence face (Owen Lowe?) and
replacing it with UHMW. In a nut shell, it's no big thing.

The "new" HTC fence incorporates ModEez fasteners to fix
their fence faces and offer spares for anyone wanting to
make a modified fence face. This is a step in the right
direction and can be easily done by any hobbyist wooddorker.
On the other hand, you could also tap the metal tube for
1/4-20 screws and be more or less in the same place.

Do any of you have any recommendations for tricking out a
rip fence?

Check this months Popular Wooddorking. Jim Tolpin has an
article on making modifications.

(1) Despite my rant I do believe Sir William of Biesemeyer
has a seat in Heaven for whenever he needs to use it.

UA100


Dear Woodworkers:
I also have the Biesemeyer fence and I wanted the capabilities to
attach a fence for dadoe and other uses. I purchased the rare earth
magnets from Wood Craft and drilled several recessed holes to
accommodate the magnets into the side of the fence. I then glued the
magnets into place,and attached small pieces of metal recessed into my
wooden auxiliary fences, and I am able to attach and remove fences,
and cut-off stops very easily. Just be sure to mount the metal pieces
high enough to avoid blade contact.

Good Luck,
Mike from American Sycamore