Hi I have a wooden oak door .
It is the main entrance door to my home.
The door faces east and so it gets hot by the summer morning heat.
In the winter it may get a bit wet by the rain.
The door consists of pieces glued together.
Two of these pieces are now detached up to the point where sunlight
passes through the door.
Their gap is about 1/8" or .25 cm wide and 2 feet (60 cmd) long.
Is there a way to fill this gap?
I tried using water based stucco but the next day it cracked.
Thanks

interuser wrote:

Their gap is about 1/8" or .25 cm wide and 2 feet (60 cmd) long.
Is there a way to fill this gap?

The best option is probably to use epoxy. Not sure how well it would
stick with the stucco residue in there though...

Chris

"interuser" wrote in message
...
Hi I have a wooden oak door .
It is the main entrance door to my home.
The door faces east and so it gets hot by the summer morning heat.
In the winter it may get a bit wet by the rain.
The door consists of pieces glued together.
Two of these pieces are now detached up to the point where sunlight
passes through the door.
Their gap is about 1/8" or .25 cm wide and 2 feet (60 cmd) long.
Is there a way to fill this gap?
I tried using water based stucco but the next day it cracked.
Thanks

Minwax wood filler.
http://tinyurl.com/5w3lmy
Be sure to get the Minwax "wood hardener" also.

pictures before and after a patch.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mdinep/

Max ( I have no connection with Minwax except to use their product)

Is the crack along the line where two of the pieces were glued
together (the glue line) or is it in the middle of one of the
"pieces"? Has the door warped or shrunk, or just a couple of the
boards that make it up? How thick are the boards? Do you care if the
crack fill looks like Oak? Based on your attempt at using WB stucco, I
guess not.

The real problem here is not just filling the crack, but stopping the
next crack from starting. Almost anything you fill it with probably
won't have adhesion to the wood as strong as the original wood was
structurally, so you've got to stop whatever caused it as well as
filling it or be prepared to fill it (or another) again later. If the
crack is along an original glue line, the above may not apply as the
glue could have failed, not the wood - but 2.5mm is a pretty fat glue
line!

In any case, a good epoxy will fill the crack. Use a needle file or
hacksaw blade or sandpaper to clean out the stucco and any weathered
wood inside the crack at the faces. Try to get to raw wood.

I'm lazy, so my methods are adapted to that failing. I'd back the
crack on the inside with a strip of wax paper (maybe 1/2 wide) held on
with masking tape. Kids plastic clay is an alternative. Anything the
epoxy won't stick to. Mix up an epoxy (preferably gel) with micro
balloons or fiberglass flock added, colored to get close to the oak
shade. I use Brownwnells AcraGlas only because I know it well. You can
get fancy and use a glue syringe to get the epoxy in the crack or just
work it in with a putty knife. Use MEK to remove any slop overs before
the epoxy sets. Careful with the MEK, it's nasty stuff - respirator
recommended, gloves required. Let it set 24 hours, see what you've
got, refill with more epoxy as required and let that cure. You can
then sand the joint a bit and try to get some coloring on it to match.

Good luck.

Regards.

Tom





On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 12:55:25 -0700 (PDT), interuser
wrote:

Hi I have a wooden oak door .
It is the main entrance door to my home.
The door faces east and so it gets hot by the summer morning heat.
In the winter it may get a bit wet by the rain.
The door consists of pieces glued together.
Two of these pieces are now detached up to the point where sunlight
passes through the door.
Their gap is about 1/8" or .25 cm wide and 2 feet (60 cmd) long.
Is there a way to fill this gap?
I tried using water based stucco but the next day it cracked.
Thanks

"interuser" wrote in message
...
Hi I have a wooden oak door .
It is the main entrance door to my home.
The door faces east and so it gets hot by the summer morning heat.
In the winter it may get a bit wet by the rain.
The door consists of pieces glued together.
Two of these pieces are now detached up to the point where sunlight
passes through the door.
Their gap is about 1/8" or .25 cm wide and 2 feet (60 cmd) long.
Is there a way to fill this gap?
I tried using water based stucco but the next day it cracked.
Thanks

This is really off the wall. If it is a raised panel door, I would consider
removing the split panel and then routing the inside molded edge on the
inside of the door. This would leave the inside edge smooth and square. When
you put the new panel in, it would be held in place with an applied molding
matching the pattern on the door.

For the raised panel, laminate a 3 ply panel with the middle panel grain
running perpendicular to the outside panels. This should prevent the panel
from splitting since you have made a plywood panel from oak.

If you use white oak, it will resist rotting as well.

Thirty years ago, there was a line of quality wooden doors that were made
like I described.

My new Bosch Colt router would (soft start variable speed) would make short
work of the routing. It would probable require using a pattern bit with a
straight edge. (Just a minor gloat.)

On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 12:55:25 -0700 (PDT), interuser
wrote:

Hi I have a wooden oak door .
It is the main entrance door to my home.
The door faces east and so it gets hot by the summer morning heat.
In the winter it may get a bit wet by the rain.
The door consists of pieces glued together.
Two of these pieces are now detached up to the point where sunlight
passes through the door.
Their gap is about 1/8" or .25 cm wide and 2 feet (60 cmd) long.
Is there a way to fill this gap?

Personally, I'd use tinted epoxy. Small amounts of artist's oil
colors make a great tint medium.

If the door is a dark color, I'd probably tint the epoxy black. I
use black about 80% of the time I fill with epoxy. Otherwise, I'd
use a raw and burnt sienna to create a shade darker than the wood.

You may need multiple applications to completely fill the crack.

Mix up the shade on scrap before you do the real door.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

"interuser" wrote:

Hi I have a wooden oak door .
It is the main entrance door to my home.
The door faces east and so it gets hot by the summer morning heat.
In the winter it may get a bit wet by the rain.
The door consists of pieces glued together.
Two of these pieces are now detached up to the point where sunlight
passes through the door.
Their gap is about 1/8" or .25 cm wide and 2 feet (60 cmd) long.
Is there a way to fill this gap?
I tried using water based stucco but the next day it cracked.

Too many questions unanswered to respond.

Is the door finished natural or painted?

Is the crack thru a piece of wood or did the glue line let loose?

Are you still able to freely open and close the door?

What is the overall condition of the door?

Are there other parts of the door that require attention?

Do you have the necessary clamps to do a repair?

All of the above have an effect on how you approach the problem.


Lew

On Jun 11, 3:21*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"interuser" wrote:
Hi I have a wooden oak door .
It is the main entrance door to my home.
The door faces east and so it gets hot by the summer morning heat.
In the winter it may get a bit wet by the rain.
The door consists of pieces glued together.
Two of these pieces are now detached up to the point where sunlight
passes through the door.
Their gap is about 1/8" or .25 cm wide and 2 feet (60 cmd) long.
Is there a way to fill this gap?
I tried using water based stucco but the next day it cracked.

Too many questions unanswered to respond.

Is the door finished natural or painted?
Natural finished and varnished


Is the crack thru a piece of wood or did the glue line let loose?
The glue line got loose


Are you still able to freely open and close the door?
Door is fine. The door consists of a "sceleton" into which 2 panels
are fitted. The lower panel is the panel in question: The glue line of
the boards that consist the panel got loose.


What is the overall condition of the door?
It is otherwise ok.


Are there other parts of the door that require attention?
Well, a minor crack in the above mentioned "sceleton"


Do you have the necessary clamps to do a repair?
I am willing to buy if they are not too expensive.


All of the above have an effect on how you approach the problem.

Lew

wrote:

Too many questions unanswered to respond.

Is the door finished natural or painted?
Natural finished and varnished


Is the crack thru a piece of wood or did the glue line let loose?
The glue line got loose


Are you still able to freely open and close the door?
Door is fine. The door consists of a "sceleton" into which 2 panels
are fitted. The lower panel is the panel in question: The glue line of
the boards that consist the panel got loose.


What is the overall condition of the door?
It is otherwise ok.


Are there other parts of the door that require attention?
Well, a minor crack in the above mentioned "sceleton"


Do you have the necessary clamps to do a repair?
I am willing to buy if they are not too expensive.

REPLY:

SInce the door is finished natural, a certain amount of care must be
exhibited to handle the "ooze out".

As someone else mentioned, using a hacksaw blade to clean out the
crack is a good idea.

I'd use epoxy fairing putty made by mixing micro-balloons into
laminating epoxy.

Practice tinting some putty and applying on some scraps to get close
to a color match.

Push the putty into the crack with a paint mixing stick.

I'd putty one side, then turn over and putty from the opposite side to
make sure the crack is filled.

Use clear packing tape to cover the wood on each side of the crack
(epoxy doesn't stick to it)

Once putty is applied, clamp as required to close crack.

Allow putty to cure at least 48 hours before removing clamps.
Use a sharp scraper to remove "ooze", then finish as required.

Have fun.

Lew

same as what everybody else said, with one addition: drill and fill
holes at the ends of the crack to stop futher splitting


shelly

wrote:

same as what everybody else said, with one addition: drill and fill
holes at the ends of the crack to stop futher splitting


Great was to stop splits and stress concentrations; however, since
this is a natural finish door, how do you fill the hole to hide it?

Lew

On Jun 12, 10:24*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
wrote:
Too many questions unanswered to respond.

Is the door finished natural or painted?

Natural finished and varnished



Is the crack thru a piece of wood or did the glue line let loose?

The glue line got loose



Are you still able to freely open and close the door?

Door is fine. The door consists of a "sceleton" into which 2 panels
are fitted. The lower panel is the panel in question: The glue line of
the boards that consist the panel got loose.



What is the overall condition of the door?

It is otherwise ok.



Are there other parts of the door that require attention?

Well, *a minor crack in the above mentioned "sceleton"



Do you have the necessary clamps to do a repair?

I am willing to buy if they are not too expensive.

REPLY:

SInce the door is finished natural, a certain amount of care must be
exhibited to handle the "ooze out".

As someone else mentioned, using a hacksaw blade to clean out the
crack is a good idea.

I'd use epoxy fairing putty made by mixing micro-balloons into
laminating epoxy.

Practice tinting some putty and applying on some scraps to get close
to a color match.

Push the putty into the crack with a paint mixing stick.

I'd putty one side, then turn over and putty from the opposite side to
make sure the crack is filled.

Use clear packing tape to cover the wood on each side of the crack
(epoxy doesn't stick to it)

Once putty is applied, clamp as required to close crack.

Allow putty to cure at least 48 hours before removing clamps.
Use a sharp scraper to remove "ooze", then finish as required.

Have fun.

Lew

Thanks for the advice.
I am not into the woodworking business, so can someone please
elaborate on how to use epoxy and micro balloons and how to tint
them ?
Please give some brands of materials if possible (I live in a European
island, and only some ebayers send items to where I live, so I want to
know what brands I can use).
About epoxy, I already have a BISON epoxy (the dual suringe kind of
epoxy. I do not remember if it is designed for wood). Would this epoxy
work?
Please let me know of what kind of protection I need to use.
I remind you that I need to FILL a crack more than glue two pieces of
wood together.
Thanks.

"interuser" wrote:

.....................................
I am not into the woodworking business, so can someone please
elaborate on how to use epoxy and micro balloons and how to tint
them ?
.....................................

Check out System3 epoxy web site.

Get a can of "SculptWood" and play with it.

Lew

On Jun 16, 10:02*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"interuser" wrote:
.....................................

I am not into the woodworking business, so can someone please
elaborate on how to use epoxy and micro balloons and how to tint
them ?

.....................................

Check out System3 epoxy web site.

Get a can of "SculptWood" and play with it.

Lew

Thanks for the advice.
I think SculpWood is white. How can I color it to get closer to the
oak wood color?

Answer: use crack spackle - posted on a.b.p.w.
---- Posted via Pronews.com - Premium Corporate Usenet News Provider ----
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"interuser" wrote:

Thanks for the advice.
I think SculpWood is white. How can I color it to get closer to the
oak wood color?

I'll refer that one to Systems3 tech service.

They should be able to help you.

Lew

Ah, spend a little more time on the exercise bike?

"Doug Brown" wrote in message
...
Ah, spend a little more time on the exercise bike?

Kegel exercises.

On Jun 22, 10:02*am, "Max" wrote:
"Doug Brown" wrote in message

...

Ah, spend a little more time on the exercise bike?

Kegel exercises.

The Red Green answer:
UH, that's what duct tape is for! Duct tape them cheeks together.

On Jun 22, 11:15*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"interuser" wrote:

Thanks for the advice.
I think SculpWood is white. How can I color it to get closer to the
oak wood color?

I'll refer that one to Systems3 tech service.

They should be able to help you.

Lew

They said I should use a UV blocking paint because the 100F sunlight
here will destroy the epoxy. Any suggestions as to which UV blocking
paint to use ?