http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw

"BoyntonStu" wrote

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw

I'm sorry to say that this contraption, at least in its "upside down table
saw" mode, appears to be an accident looking for a place to happen.

Different strokes for different folks, and I'm just an average woodworker
with an average understanding of woodworking tools and their (safe)
operation, but do you have dreams of marketing this thing?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"BoyntonStu" wrote

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw

I'm sorry to say that this contraption, at least in its "upside down table
saw" mode, appears to be an accident looking for a place to happen.

Different strokes for different folks, and I'm just an average woodworker
with an average understanding of woodworking tools and their (safe)
operation, but do you have dreams of marketing this thing?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

When I worked in a truss shop we would occasionally have to use a radial arm
saw with the saw turned/aligned with the fence, the blade tilted and push
through bottom cords to bevel for valleys when the table saw was down. I
never saw any injuries but I'm not sure what OSHA would say.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"BoyntonStu" wrote

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw

I'm sorry to say that this contraption, at least in its "upside down table
saw" mode, appears to be an accident looking for a place to happen.

Different strokes for different folks, and I'm just an average woodworker
with an average understanding of woodworking tools and their (safe)
operation, but do you have dreams of marketing this thing?


I hope his insurance company covers him when some one tries to copy and gets
hurt and then blames him. It all seems pointless. A RAS in good working
order will do the same with the normal table.

A RAS in good working order will do the same with the normal
table.

In the rip position?

BoyntonStu wrote:
A RAS in good working order will do the same with the normal
table.

In the rip position?


If it was in good working order, it could be set in the rip or crosscut
position as intended.

On Apr 25, 5:41 pm, Doug Winterburn wrote:
BoyntonStu wrote:
A RAS in good working order will do the same with the normal
table.

In the rip position?

If it was in good working order, it could be set in the rip or crosscut
position as intended.

Radial Arm saws have a very bad reputation, especially for ripping.

Emerson has sent out thousands of blade safety kits that must have
cost them millions.

You can safely pull through on a table saw.

Why are there so many cautions against that on a RAS?

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
A RAS in good working order will do the same with the normal
table.

In the rip position?



Absolutely. Unless you have tampered with or screw up the saw this should
not be a problem. I used on for about 7 years.

I fail to understand why you have gone to all of this trouble to modify your
RAS in this manor. I understand that the saw had some mechanical problems,
but it seems that they could have been fixed much easier then what you have
made. I have preformed all of the cuts you have written about on a
unmodified RAS, including the use of jigs and sleds for special cuts. I
find the RAS to be a poor choice for ripping due to the blade position and
you have not rectified that problem. I also find that the Craftsman RAS arm
will flex under load at the position you have it, this tends to cause kick
back. That being said I find your modified RAS interesting but don't think I
will be modifying mine to your specs. Have fun with it.
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw

I find the RAS to be a poor choice for ripping due to the blade
position and
you have not rectified that problem.

I am trying to understand this.

What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?

What is wrong about the position?

It can bevel in both directions and it can cut as deep as a table saw.


The motor height is higher than my rip fence.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
I find the RAS to be a poor choice for ripping due to the blade
position and
you have not rectified that problem.

What have you done differently???? You still have a rip fence just like a
normal RAS has eccept your contraption seems to have a much shorter fence
than a regularly set up RAS would have.



I am trying to understand this.

You do seem to be very confused.


What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?


What is wrong about the position?

It can bevel in both directions and it can cut as deep as a table saw.


The motor height is higher than my rip fence.


I think a you should look into an instructional class to learn how to use a
RAS properly and get some equipment that has not been "rigged"

You still have a rip fence just like a
normal RAS has eccept your contraption seems to have a much shorter
fence
than a regularly set up RAS would have.

That IS the problem with a regularly set up RAS, the "infinite" rip
fence.

Shortening the rip fence to just beyond the cut will increase safety.

That is exactly the point of why I chose to shorten it.

Do you understand why kickbacks occur?

see: How to avoid kickbacks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVpGi85HfnY

and

Safer ripping with a short rip fence on the tablesaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w


Tell us what you think.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...

You still have a rip fence just like a
normal RAS has eccept your contraption seems to have a much shorter
fence
than a regularly set up RAS would have.

That IS the problem with a regularly set up RAS, the "infinite" rip
fence.

Shortening the rip fence to just beyond the cut will increase safety.

Your are kinda short sighted. If you let the board angle away grom the
fence it will bind with the blade and could cause kick back.


That is exactly the point of why I chose to shorten it.

I seeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.




Do you understand why kickbacks occur?

Yup apparently you have found a new way to cause a kick back.



see: How to avoid kickbacks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVpGi85HfnY

and

Safer ripping with a short rip fence on the tablesaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w


Tell us what you think.

I think if the shorter fence prevented all kick backs they all would be
short. The short fence only reduces the risk of the wood binding between the
fence and the blade. With the shorter fence however you can now let the
wood move away from the fence pivoting at the blade and cause the bind
inside the kerf and get the same result.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...


What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?




The arm, post, and motor in the way?
A TS is wide open territory from the top. I can work from all sides. I can
rip wider than a 48" sheet. I would like to see you cut a 4x8 sheet of
plywood in 1/2 with your contraption!
Can you safely run a 3/4" wide dado blade in that RAS? I doubt it! Not a
problem with my TS.
I have a RAS, it serves a purpose once in a while, but not very often!!
Greg
"One of the many not jumping on your "improved" RAS idea!!"

On Apr 25, 10:01 pm, "Greg O" wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...



What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?

The arm, post, and motor in the way?
A TS is wide open territory from the top. I can work from all sides. I can
rip wider than a 48" sheet. I would like to see you cut a 4x8 sheet of
plywood in 1/2 with your contraption!
Can you safely run a 3/4" wide dado blade in that RAS? I doubt it! Not a
problem with my TS.
I have a RAS, it serves a purpose once in a while, but not very often!!
Greg
"One of the many not jumping on your "improved" RAS idea!!"

I rip big sheets on the floor with my 4 foot extension handled
circular saw and my homemade ripping guide.


I walk along as if I was using a hedge trimmer. Quite easy.

Much less lifting and much more convenient.

My 'contraption' is not able to do less than it was designed to do as
a RAS.


Indeed, it still is a RAS if I unlock the head.

I don't know how well a dado will work as I have not needed to use it.

However, if I can nibble it on my sled it would be easy.


How do you crosscut narrow boards on a TS without a sled?


Back to safety and kickback.

Have you seen the videos?

Subject

Can we all spell "T-R-O-L-L"

Lew

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...

How do you crosscut narrow boards on a TS without a sled?

I don't, I use my DeWalt 12" power miter saw, or my properly tuned RAS, used
as designed.


Back to safety and kickback.

Have you seen the videos?

Yes, I have seen the videos, and I am still not impressed with your
contraption!
Greg

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
I find the RAS to be a poor choice for ripping due to the blade
position and
you have not rectified that problem.

I am trying to understand this.

What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?

What is wrong about the position?

It can bevel in both directions and it can cut as deep as a table saw.


The motor height is higher than my rip fence.

On Ripping with the RAS, Post, arm and head are in a position where they
tend to get in the way of the worker unlike a table saw that is open on all
sides. The arm and post of the RAS do no allow as easy of access to use
push sticks which makes the operation in my opinion a little less safe and
easy. While these problems can be overcome to some degree they still are
there causing problems. The blade itself is a problem, with a TS you can
adjust the hight of the blade to barely clear the top of the wood. This
allows some degree of safety if you run your had over the blade while
cutting (minor injury instead loss of hand), Your set up keeps the entire
blade exposed giving more risk for major injury. One cause of kickback is
the distance from the front of the blade to the fence being wider then the
distance from the the back of the blade to the fence. In your set up the
blade/motor can twist/flex on the arm causing this problem and thus
kickback, also I am not real sure about the accuracy of your fence when it
is put on and taken off like you are doing. Another cause of kickback is
warped or twisted wood, with a TS you can overcome this by applying pressure
to the wood as it passes the blade (not a reccomend procedure) with your set
up you can not get to the wood to do this. As far as using a 3/4 inch dado
head in your set up I would not even think of trying it. Saw is to
underpowered to be safe that far out on the arm, arm has too much flex. JMHO

Curran Copeland

I also just noticed the postion of your on/off switch, That could cause you
a world of trouble.

On Apr 26, 1:47 am, "sweet sawdust"
wrote:
I also just noticed the postion of your on/off switch, That could cause you
a world of trouble.

A good observation, thanks.

However I have trained myself to slap the switch with my right hand.

I don't have to see it and my palm always hits the target.

(If it were a problem I would add another switch.)


Thanks again.

The TROLL

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw

Let me see if I have this right... you took a radial arm saw and put it over
a table saw to rip wood....OK got it...


What a waste of time and dangerous. Why not feed it from the other direction
while your at it so you don't have to spend any energy pushing the wood
being cut? Post that on Youtube!

On Apr 27, 11:00 am, "Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw

Let me see if I have this right... you took a radial arm saw and put it over
a table saw to rip wood....OK got it...

What a waste of time and dangerous. Why not feed it from the other direction
while your at it so you don't have to spend any energy pushing the wood
being cut? Post that on Youtube!

"What a waste of time and dangerous." Why do you make this statement?

More dangerous than a table saw, radial saw, what?