I'd like to clean up an old stanley (only sentimental value, no $ value)
handplane. I've flattened the sides and sole, refinished the handles, and
squared the blade so far.

Before I sharpen the blade I'd like to removed the rust (a considerable
amount) from the non-cutting part of the blade, chipbreaker and all the
other rusty componants. Its not surface rust, but quite severe and the metal
is proably quite pitted underneat.

Any suggestions for a product to put on it? I'd like something that requires
as little elbow grease as possible as I used all mine just flattening the
soles and sides!

Also, any idea what I can use to clean up what I assume is black paint on
the top side of the plane. There are too many grooves and hollows to get
down there with any abrasives, any suggestions?

One last question, I notice surface rust forms on the newly shiney, flattend
sole and sides almost overnight, any suggestions what to put on it when I'm
not using it to prevent this?

Thanks in advance.

"NOSPAM" wrote in
news:XuudnUhbYIUSwGTanZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@localnet:

*snip*


One last question, I notice surface rust forms on the newly shiney,
flattend sole and sides almost overnight, any suggestions what to put
on it when I'm not using it to prevent this?

Thanks in advance.

I'd try Johnson's Paste Wax. It's very commonly used for saw tables,
which can rust in the way you're describing. You'll find it in the floor
products aisle.

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Naval Jelly.

"NOSPAM" wrote in message
news:XuudnUhbYIUSwGTanZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@localnet...
I'd like to clean up an old stanley (only sentimental value, no $ value)
handplane. I've flattened the sides and sole, refinished the handles, and
squared the blade so far.

Before I sharpen the blade I'd like to removed the rust (a considerable
amount) from the non-cutting part of the blade, chipbreaker and all the
other rusty componants. Its not surface rust, but quite severe and the
metal is proably quite pitted underneat.

Any suggestions for a product to put on it? I'd like something that
requires as little elbow grease as possible as I used all mine just
flattening the soles and sides!

Also, any idea what I can use to clean up what I assume is black paint on
the top side of the plane. There are too many grooves and hollows to get
down there with any abrasives, any suggestions?

One last question, I notice surface rust forms on the newly shiney,
flattend sole and sides almost overnight, any suggestions what to put on
it when I'm not using it to prevent this?

Thanks in advance.

On Apr 6, 7:32 pm, "NOSPAM" wrote:
I'd like to clean up an old stanley (only sentimental value, no $ value)
handplane. I've flattened the sides and sole, refinished the handles, and
squared the blade so far.

Before I sharpen the blade I'd like to removed the rust (a considerable
amount) from the non-cutting part of the blade, chipbreaker and all the
other rusty componants. Its not surface rust, but quite severe and the metal
is proably quite pitted underneat.

Molasses. Natural chelating agent, has a strong
affinity for iron oxide, which explains its value as a dietary
iron source.

1 part molasses, 3 parts water, sufficient to cover the part to
be derusted. Leave submerged 1 week, rinse clean, oil
immediately.

I use electrolysis on the old tools I reclaim. Links below.
Your "black paint" is likely japanning (Google it). You can
leave it as is or an extended stay in the electrolysis solution
will remove it. Rustoleum black paint will help keep future
rust at bay.

http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html
http://woodmangler.com/Derusting/ele...derusting.html
http://www.wr6wr.com/newSite/article...06/wp0906.html
http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm

Art


"NOSPAM" wrote in message
news:XuudnUhbYIUSwGTanZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@localnet...
I'd like to clean up an old stanley (only sentimental value, no $ value)
handplane. I've flattened the sides and sole, refinished the handles, and
squared the blade so far.

Before I sharpen the blade I'd like to removed the rust (a considerable
amount) from the non-cutting part of the blade, chipbreaker and all the
other rusty componants. Its not surface rust, but quite severe and the metal
is proably quite pitted underneat.

Any suggestions for a product to put on it? I'd like something that requires
as little elbow grease as possible as I used all mine just flattening the
soles and sides!

Also, any idea what I can use to clean up what I assume is black paint on
the top side of the plane. There are too many grooves and hollows to get
down there with any abrasives, any suggestions?

One last question, I notice surface rust forms on the newly shiney, flattend
sole and sides almost overnight, any suggestions what to put on it when I'm
not using it to prevent this?

Thanks in advance.

I agree with the methods to remove the rust. The trick part now is in
keeping the rust away. The trick I have used on surfaces that do not contact
wood, but you still want the "bare metal" look, is a coating of clear
krylon. The areas of the tool that will contact the wood, need to be treat
differently. The issue becomes the transfer of any protective coating to the
wood surface. It can really cause unwanted results when finishing the wood.
On those surfaces a thin coat of natural wax works well. The best way to
keep the rust from the surfaces that contact the wood is to use the tool
often. sounds simplistic, but I have never seen rust on the surface of part
of the handrailing everyone touches. The other thing to keep in mind is
simple. The higher the moister content in the tools environment, the more
rust. I have a basement shop in the northeast near the coast. before I
installed automatic dehumidifier, I could swear I could see the rust forming
before my eyes. With the dehumidifier, rust is still there but only in very
mild cases. Good luck

Paul


"NOSPAM" wrote in message
news:XuudnUhbYIUSwGTanZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@localnet...
I'd like to clean up an old stanley (only sentimental value, no $ value)
handplane. I've flattened the sides and sole, refinished the handles, and
squared the blade so far.

Before I sharpen the blade I'd like to removed the rust (a considerable
amount) from the non-cutting part of the blade, chipbreaker and all the
other rusty componants. Its not surface rust, but quite severe and the
metal is proably quite pitted underneat.

Any suggestions for a product to put on it? I'd like something that
requires as little elbow grease as possible as I used all mine just
flattening the soles and sides!

Also, any idea what I can use to clean up what I assume is black paint on
the top side of the plane. There are too many grooves and hollows to get
down there with any abrasives, any suggestions?

One last question, I notice surface rust forms on the newly shiney,
flattend sole and sides almost overnight, any suggestions what to put on
it when I'm not using it to prevent this?

Thanks in advance.

"Father Haskell" wrote

Molasses. Natural chelating agent, has a strong
affinity for iron oxide, which explains its value as a dietary
iron source.

1 part molasses, 3 parts water, sufficient to cover the part to
be derusted. Leave submerged 1 week, rinse clean, oil
immediately.

Is this done while drinking herbal tea and eating bean sprouts?

G

On Apr 7, 12:08 am, "Lee Michaels" wrote:
"Father Haskell" wrote

Molasses. Natural chelating agent, has a strong
affinity for iron oxide, which explains its value as a dietary
iron source.

1 part molasses, 3 parts water, sufficient to cover the part to
be derusted. Leave submerged 1 week, rinse clean, oil
immediately.

Is this done while drinking herbal tea and eating bean sprouts?

G

Those aren't bean sprouts, those are mash for the 'shine.

On Apr 6, 8:28 pm, "tdup2" wrote:
Naval Jelly.

Naval Jelly attacks iron. Electrolysis or molasses
stops at the rust.

On Apr 7, 12:08 am, "Lee Michaels" wrote:
"Father Haskell" wrote

Molasses. Natural chelating agent, has a strong
affinity for iron oxide, which explains its value as a dietary
iron source.

1 part molasses, 3 parts water, sufficient to cover the part to
be derusted. Leave submerged 1 week, rinse clean, oil
immediately.

Is this done while drinking herbal tea and eating bean sprouts?

I'd never heard of the molasses trick, either. But it seems the old
boy knows his treacle.
http://virtualindian.org/projrust.htm

R

"Father Haskell" wrote

Molasses. Natural chelating agent, has a strong
affinity for iron oxide, which explains its value as a dietary
iron source.

1 part molasses, 3 parts water, sufficient to cover the part to
be derusted. Leave submerged 1 week, rinse clean, oil
immediately.

Wonder if the sulpher in the black strap has anything to do with it?


Let's see, Rum, Baked Beans and now Rust Removal.

Wonder what is next?

Lew

On Apr 7, 1:31 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Father Haskell" wrote

Molasses. Natural chelating agent, has a strong
affinity for iron oxide, which explains its value as a dietary
iron source.

1 part molasses, 3 parts water, sufficient to cover the part to
be derusted. Leave submerged 1 week, rinse clean, oil
immediately.

Wonder if the sulpher in the black strap has anything to do with it?

Desulfured molasses works fine.

Molasses is the leftover syrup from sugar extraction. A
crude vegetable product, it contains many countless
organic compounds, some of which are chelating agents.
"Chelate" comes from the Greek word for claw. Chelating
agents surround target molecules like claws, making them
in many cases easier for plants or animals to absorb.

Let's see, Rum, Baked Beans and now Rust Removal.

Wonder what is next?

Lew

Plant food. Many of the desirable microbial symbiotes
in healthy, unspoiled garden soil can use the sugars
in molasses as food, especially in presence of oxygen.
Compost "teas" can be activated into high octane
organic rocket fuel simply by mixing with a shot of
molasses and aerating with a ten dollar aquarium
air pump. Microbial populations will explode by
factors of up to 1,000 within 24 hours.

Simply spraying molasses over a target area of
soil would probably have the same effect.

OP here,

Thanks for all the great advice. Father Haskell, I thought you were pulling
my leg when you suggested Molasses. Glad others chimed in. I'll try it on
the frog this weekend for the next week to see what happens...

Thanks to the other posters about the various waxes to try and even the
dehumidifier suggestion.

I have quite a rust-active environment so I need to get a bit more
proactive. Some mornings the temp of my garage is so much colder that than
the outside temps, that if I leave the doors open for more than a few
minutes, condensation beads up on almost every metal surface in the garage -
just like the water beading down a cold glass of ice tea on a hot day.

Oh well, I suppose those days I should just leave the doors closed!

Thanks again to all for their advice, I'll start experimenting...



"goaway" wrote in message
...
I agree with the methods to remove the rust. The trick part now is in
keeping the rust away. The trick I have used on surfaces that do not
contact wood, but you still want the "bare metal" look, is a coating of
clear krylon. The areas of the tool that will contact the wood, need to be
treat differently. The issue becomes the transfer of any protective coating
to the wood surface. It can really cause unwanted results when finishing
the wood. On those surfaces a thin coat of natural wax works well. The best
way to keep the rust from the surfaces that contact the wood is to use the
tool often. sounds simplistic, but I have never seen rust on the surface of
part of the handrailing everyone touches. The other thing to keep in mind
is simple. The higher the moister content in the tools environment, the
more rust. I have a basement shop in the northeast near the coast. before I
installed automatic dehumidifier, I could swear I could see the rust
forming before my eyes. With the dehumidifier, rust is still there but only
in very mild cases. Good luck

Paul


"NOSPAM" wrote in message
news:XuudnUhbYIUSwGTanZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@localnet...
I'd like to clean up an old stanley (only sentimental value, no $ value)
handplane. I've flattened the sides and sole, refinished the handles, and
squared the blade so far.

Before I sharpen the blade I'd like to removed the rust (a considerable
amount) from the non-cutting part of the blade, chipbreaker and all the
other rusty componants. Its not surface rust, but quite severe and the
metal is proably quite pitted underneat.

Any suggestions for a product to put on it? I'd like something that
requires as little elbow grease as possible as I used all mine just
flattening the soles and sides!

Also, any idea what I can use to clean up what I assume is black paint on
the top side of the plane. There are too many grooves and hollows to get
down there with any abrasives, any suggestions?

One last question, I notice surface rust forms on the newly shiney,
flattend sole and sides almost overnight, any suggestions what to put on
it when I'm not using it to prevent this?

Thanks in advance.